DASHBOARD

[steve26]

Hi,

 

I remember some months ago the question was asked about a suitable varnish for restoring TR6 dashboard. The product recomended was available on the internet. Can anyone help me to trace it?

 

It is obviously an old brand as one comment was ' is that stuff still available'? Various threads also gave advise on how to use and finish with wire wool.

 

Before I start to remove the dashboard, I notice there is a gap at top right and left corners just above the screws. It runs from the corner for about 75mm before being hidden by the outward curve of the padded dash top. It seems that it is sticking out by about 5mm (thickness of the dash). This does not seem right, can anyone offer any advise as to what could be the cause of this and what I should look out for as a remedy.

 

The holes in the dashboard seem big enough to clear the dials, is it possible I can remove the dash without first removing the dials?

 

Your comments would be most welcome.

 

Steve

[Guest ntc]

Hi,

 

I remember some months ago the question was asked about a suitable varnish for restoring TR6 dashboard. The product recomended was available on the internet. Can anyone help me to trace it?

 

It is obviously an old brand as one comment was ' is that stuff still available'? Various threads also gave advise on how to use and finish with wire wool.

 

Before I start to remove the dashboard, I notice there is a gap at top right and left corners just above the screws. It runs from the corner for about 75mm before being hidden by the outward curve of the padded dash top. It seems that it is sticking out by about 5mm (thickness of the dash). This does not seem right, can anyone offer any advise as to what could be the cause of this and what I should look out for as a remedy.

 

The holes in the dashboard seem big enough to clear the dials, is it possible I can remove the dash without first removing the dials?

 

Your comments would be most welcome.

 

Steve

 

Hi Steve

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....&hl=rustins

 

the dials have to be removed first certainly the speedo and tacho

 

Neil

Edited March 26, 2009 by ntc

[Jersey Royal]

Hi,

 

I remember some months ago the question was asked about a suitable varnish for restoring TR6 dashboard. The product recomended was available on the internet. Can anyone help me to trace it?

 

It is obviously an old brand as one comment was ' is that stuff still available'? Various threads also gave advise on how to use and finish with wire wool.

 

Before I start to remove the dashboard, I notice there is a gap at top right and left corners just above the screws. It runs from the corner for about 75mm before being hidden by the outward curve of the padded dash top. It seems that it is sticking out by about 5mm (thickness of the dash). This does not seem right, can anyone offer any advise as to what could be the cause of this and what I should look out for as a remedy.

 

The holes in the dashboard seem big enough to clear the dials, is it possible I can remove the dash without first removing the dials?

 

Your comments would be most welcome.

 

Steve

 

Hi Steve,

 

I concur with Neil.

 

Also your sticky up bits, had similar on mine one end. Once you have wood dash out you will be able to see where it has lifted, you may need to trim some of the vinyl trim that would normaly be behind the wood dash, to enable a few good sqiurts of a contact adhesive, then hold down the top dash pad down.

 

To do this i used ducktape on top of crash pad pulled down to suit and stuck to the vertical metal. Advisalble to trial fit wood dash to the new shape and adjust tape .

 

Once glue is dry remove tape and check again, hopefully a good job done.

 

 

Hope that makes sense, but will mean more once you have removed dials and wood dash.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

Edited March 26, 2009 by Jersey Royal

[Tom Fremont]

Before I start to remove the dashboard, I notice there is a gap at top right and left corners just above the screws. It runs from the corner for about 75mm before being hidden by the outward curve of the padded dash top. It seems that it is sticking out by about 5mm (thickness of the dash). This does not seem right, can anyone offer any advise as to what could be the cause of this and what I should look out for as a remedy.

 

From your description it sounds like your dash is delaminating The original dashes are at least 10mm thick.

 

If, on the other hand, you are referring to a space between the padded vinyl/foam top and the dash it may be that your dash top has loosened from the steel below, to which it was glued originally.

 

FWIW, new dashboards are available from many sources, from excellent repros of the originals to more exotic veneers. It is highly unlikely that an equal, let alone superior result will be obtained by anyone who isn't highly skilled

 

In the U.S. TRF have the best original type that I know of, and Prestige Autowood do the best exotics I've seen; for example:

 

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp84/im...15L9-6-8010.jpg

 

( Only one of this particular veneer, SFAIK )

 

Figure on circa 2X for an exotic vs. original type, pricewise.

[Jersey Royal]

From your description it sounds like your dash is delaminating The original dashes are at least 10mm thick.

 

If, on the other hand, you are referring to a space between the padded vinyl/foam top and the dash it may be that your dash top has loosened from the steel below, to which it was glued originally.

 

FWIW, new dashboards are available from many sources, from excellent repros of the originals to more exotic veneers. It is highly unlikely that an equal, let alone superior result will be obtained by anyone who isn't highly skilled

 

In the U.S. TRF have the best original type that I know of, and Prestige Autowood do the best exotics I've seen; for example:

 

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp84/im...15L9-6-8010.jpg

 

( Only one of this particular veneer, SFAIK )

 

Figure on circa 2X for an exotic vs. original type, pricewise.

 

 

Steve

 

We are unaware of your skill re woodwork or decoration, you could do a search in your local area and find a good cabinet maker.Get a quote. They will carry lots of veneers. You could end up with a bespoke dash.

 

I have used a local cabinet maker (support local bussines ) who do the normal run off the mill stuff and top end too. But did not do my Tr dash, i had a go myself, thats part of the fun. So worth an enquiry

 

Cheers

 

Guy

Edited March 27, 2009 by Jersey Royal

[steve26]

Steve

 

We are unaware of your skill re woodwork or decoration, you could do a search in your local area and find a good cabinet maker.Get a quote. They will carry lots of veneers. You could end up with a bespoke dash.

 

I have used a local cabinet maker (support local bussines ) who do the normal run off the mill stuff and top end too, they worked on changing the veneers on my Sunseeker. But did not do my Tr dash, i had a go myself, thats part of the fun. So worth an enquiry

 

Cheers

 

Guy

[steve26]

Hi Folks,

 

Thanks for your suggestions re the gaps.

 

I would still like to trace the varnish as discussed in a forum some months ago. I have already stripped the glove box door of varnish, and am confident that I can do the rest of the dash as the varnish is lifting in places. The veneer underneath is sound.

 

Not sure if I saw this discussed in the TR6 or general forum. Can anyone help?

 

Regards

Steve

[steve26]

Yes thats it, RUSTINS.

 

Thanks very much.

 

Steve

[Sperry_22]

Hi Steve

 

Rustins = 2 Pack Plastic Coating is what you need

 

You can order it through Axminster check link, you'll only need the 250ml pack.

 

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_...e=1&jump=44

 

I've used it and the finish is great and hard. (did about 20 coats so I could sand back - used wetn'dry from 600 grade up to 1500 on a block to get smooth, then polished it with T-Cut.). Then buffed using a polishing mop on a my drill.

 

I have just about finished my dash after doing various repairs to the veneer, clocks fitted back tonight. Hopefully the whole lot will be finished by the weekend.

 

 

Hope this helps Tim