EliTR6 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi guys, Need to replace my clutch master cylinder as it is leaking badly and its getting progressively worse. Is it a relatively straightforward job? I'm guessing remove, replace, bleed. Is this right? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi, My cylinder is old Girling 3/4 inch.As part of a campaign to get the clutch system up to scratch I removed mine,stripped it and checked that the bores weren't pitted then put in a reconditioning kit.There were no dramas other than getting the valve bits on the stem on the end of the piston in the right order.I believe these master cylinders were made with two bore sizes so you should check this before purchasing parts. Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 (edited) Hi guys, Need to replace my clutch master cylinder as it is leaking badly and its getting progressively worse. Is it a relatively straightforward job? I'm guessing remove, replace, bleed. Is this right? Thanks Hi EliTR6 Don't forget to bleed the slave cylinder as well!!! (Not that the Master Cyl can be bled satisfactorily on its own!) Rgds Edited March 24, 2009 by ianhoward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alanwcoote Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Straight forward job ,if you have a steel pipe from the master cyl to the flexy pipe on the slave be very carefull they fracture easily when trying to undo may be wise to replace at same time. the bends are simple with copper replacement. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi Eli, I did a clutch master cylinder seal change at CLM08. The only problems we had were that all his union nuts were rounded off and bleeding it can be problematic as the cylinder wants to react against fluid in the system and if the pipes are empty no reaction. To overcome make sure that their is fluid in all the pipes before starting the bleeding. Best of luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Nice one guys, thanks TR Shop has a great offer on tight now Will give it a go shortly. Other than the leak, car is running great at the mo. It's been to France and back 2 weekends in a row and I've ragged the **** out of it on the motorway and it still behaved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 The 0.7" cylinder gives much less pedal travel, ie better. I believe it helps with bleeding if you undo the slave cylinder and rotate it until the bleed nipple is on top, then when you've finished rotate it back to the proper position. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Surely the correct position for any bleed nipple is at the highest point - so the one on the slave cylinder should be at the top anyway? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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