EliTR6 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Hi guys, The TR broke down on Waterloo Bridge yesterday, was backfiring massively and eventually lost all power. Backfired driving down the Strand and a woman screamed, she thought it was gunfire! I checked everything I could and then called a recovery truck. Driver was a friendly older chap and figured the condenser had given up the ghost. I carry spares so we put in a new condenser and points and cleaned the rotor arm. Job done! I've taught myself a lot over the past 3 years but points are one thing I haven't touched yet. I should be able to do this myself but cannot figure out how to get the distributor on cam. I can see the line on the rotor arm drive and know how to turn it by push/pulling the car in 2nd but I don't know where it needs to be pointing! Anyone have any tips please? Thanks! Eli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Hi Eli, When I do points I need to physically see them.I then turn the engine by means of the fan belt ,or whatever,in the normal direction of rotation until the cam is on the heel of the points and is trying to open them as far as possible.The screws holding the points are then loosened until they are snugly holding the points but still allow the points to move open or close.In the TR6 there is a slot a screwdriver can be put in to rotate the points around on the base of the distributor slightly.As they rotate they open or close.Rotate them till you get the right gap.The Brown Book says the gap is 14-16 thousandths of an inch =0.36 to 0.41mm.Check the gap by means of a feeler gauge (I have used a hacksaw blade when stuck in the bush but I've never had to do this on the TR6).The feeler gauge should just slide in the gap.I then rotate the engine allow the points to close ,insert and pull a piece of clean paper between the points to make sure they are absolutely clean.Reassemble the distributor and cap (make absolutely sure the cap fits perfectly or you risk breaking the rotor arm when you crank the engine) and the engine should run.If you can recheck the timing with a timing light as soon as possible as working on the points can affect the timing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 (I have used a hacksaw blade when stuck in the bush but I've never had to do this on the TR6). I always thought a hacksaw blade was 25 thou for plug gaps, I must measure one tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks guys I know how to set the gap and have feeler gauges. It's aligning the points with the cam follower that I don't quite understand. The whole heel of the points thing escapes me, I think that's where I'm lacking. I'm driving to France on Friday night so can't really play around with the car until I'm back. Thank god it broke down yesterday and not in the @rsehole of the french countryside at 3am. I'll have another peek tomorrow night... Thanks again everyone PS: ordered 2 rotor arms, dizzy cap and condenser from distributor doctor on wed, received them on thursday! good timing too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Eli, Just rotate the engine and cam until the points gap appears to be the widest, then set the gap at that point. Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Eli, Just rotate the engine and cam until the points gap appears to be the widest, then set the gap at that point. Regards, That's exactly the explanation I needed, I was obviously overcomplicating things! Thanks Mike and everyone for the help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 That's exactly the explanation I needed, I was obviously overcomplicating things! Thanks Mike and everyone for the help Eli To get them spot on a good investment would be a dwell meter Regards Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Eli To get them spot on a good investment would be a dwell meter Regards Neil Will pick one up this evening chez maplin if poss, thanks Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Will pick one up this evening chez maplin if poss, thanks Neil http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=3198 Regards Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DOG_MORGAN Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 also change the condensor billy t Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Bought a dwell meter and dwell is 37degrees which is within the norm I guess. I'll have a play adjusting everything after france this weekend. I also checked the RPM and my tacho underreads by approx 500rpm. Considering I usually redline the car in 2nd and 3rd when out and about, I'm not too happy about that. Worth checking your cars if you can. Thanks again for all the help guys! PS: new condensor fitted saturday billy, ta Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Revisited the tacho issue in bed last night. The needle was pretty much spot on at idle but was definitely only showing 2000rpm whilst the meter reading was c.2500. I will try it when the engine is warm and will rev it higher to see what I'm getting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Eli, Both instruments could be out.If your gear ratio's are standard the car speed vs engine rpm is detailed in the back of the TR6 green glovebox manual.For example in top (no OD) you should be doing 102 km/hr @3000 rpm.If your tacho is reading 20% low you will be doing 127.5 km/hr. If you are worried about the speedo accuracy a lot of areas have measured stretches of road you can check your speedo against. Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Eli, Both instruments could be out.If your gear ratio's are standard the car speed vs engine rpm is detailed in the back of the TR6 green glovebox manual.For example in top (no OD) you should be doing 102 km/hr @3000 rpm.If your tacho is reading 20% low you will be doing 127.5 km/hr. If you are worried about the speedo accuracy a lot of areas have measured stretches of road you can check your speedo against. Regards, Don't tell anyone, but my speedo hasn't worked for over 2years! The measurements were taken at standstill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Good grief.I read in recently in an English magazine that the French require hi-viz jackets in the cabin,warning triangles,a spare light bulb set,etc just to let you drive in the place.What's the penalty for no speedo?Thirty years on Devils Island? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Good grief.I read in recently in an English magazine that the French require hi-viz jackets in the cabin,warning triangles,a spare light bulb set,etc just to let you drive in the place.What's the penalty for no speedo?Thirty years on Devils Island? You forgot the first adi kit! No speedo is illegal here too but the odds of getting caught are slim (touch wood!). Also, the high-viz jacket must be accessible from the driver's seat. Good excuse for a reacharound if you have female passengers in a 4/5door! Joking aside, I spend a lot of time driving around backroads in France and the extra legislation may sound like a pain but I think it should be manadatory in the UK too. I dread to think what would happen if someone was to break down at night without at least a warning triangle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) As far as I know the high-viz jackets and emergency triangles are mandatory in all, to say almost all, Western-European countries. In case of you will have to carry ONE jacket PER SEAT, and in Spain 2 triangles have to be on board. In addition some countries request a fire extinguisher and first aid kit in the passenger area, not in the boot. This criterias are mostly verified during MOT, but up to now I have never seen them being checked by police. Not following these criterias could probably have serious consequencies with your insurance in case of an accident. Edited March 10, 2009 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eyetee Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I had a lesson last week on setting the engine timing mix etc, the skilled proffessional first set the points clearance, turned crank with spanner till fully open then with flashing torch pointed at crank pulley checked the timing (engine running) the degrees of advance set in the torch when synchronized with engine showed the mark on the pulley. Then asked for the engine from the foot throttle seat to be held at 2000 rpm demonstrating carb symitry (sp) (throttle linkage) tested by measuring air drawn in then checked the jetting of carbs (webers) and refferred to knowledge and charts. then attached an anyliser to the exhaust and went for test drive, the anyliser measured the exhaust fumes for optimum. jets were changed twice before satisfaction. The car failed at every stage and needed tweaking. Eli I know your car has Pi but thought this might help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I had a lesson last week on setting the engine timing mix etc, the skilled proffessional first set the points clearance, turned crank with spanner till fully open then with flashing torch pointed at crank pulley checked the timing (engine running) the degrees of advance set in the torch when synchronized with engine showed the mark on the pulley. Then asked for the engine from the foot throttle seat to be held at 2000 rpm demonstrating carb symitry (sp) (throttle linkage) tested by measuring air drawn in then checked the jetting of carbs (webers) and refferred to knowledge and charts. then attached an anyliser to the exhaust and went for test drive, the anyliser measured the exhaust fumes for optimum. jets were changed twice before satisfaction. The car failed at every stage and needed tweaking. Eli I know your car has Pi but thought this might help Thanks John. Sounds like one helluva seminar you had there! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eyetee Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Took a day and a half, but also included gear linkage, full rear suspension set up, corner wieghted the car and finally the engine tune. Donned the overalls and the learning cap. Mighty chuffed with the result Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Took a day and a half, but also included gear linkage, full rear suspension set up, corner wieghted the car and finally the engine tune. Donned the overalls and the learning cap. Mighty chuffed with the result John where did you get the education, and , did it cost ? I can do the simple stuff points etc but the rest would be worth knowing to keep the car on the button Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.