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TR4A IRS restoration


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I have bought Roger Williams's book on restoring the 4A and in it he insists that for a 4A IRS the chassis must be on all 4 wheels with the engine in etc. I can understand this with an old chassis but I have just bought a brand new chassis from CTM and I am reluctant to reinstate the suspension etc only to strip it off again for the chassis painting and restoration of the suspension. Is it neccesary to replace all the gubins on a new chassis? Obviously I don't want to ruin the restoration.

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I don’t always agree with the "written word" of restoration publications but, in this case, I would agree; even a new (pattern) chassis isn’t, necessarily, going t be 100%. There are “cheats” you can use depending on what you’re doing but I’m not sure I get your point; why would you NOT paint & fully assemble the rolling chassis with all it’s components before moving to the body tub? :unsure:

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Talk to Colin at CTM - when I spoke to him he was adamant that there is no need to do this - just support the chassis under the axle lines without engine or suspension etc, and build up the body.

 

I've not done it, but I'm going to take Colin's advice, seeing as he's sorting my chassis and has probably restored the odd car or two - but I would chat to him if I were you.

 

Chris

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Hi Nigel

If you are using the chassis as a template for replacing floors, sills etc, then with cutting and welding,

you wouldnt want the chassis in a finished condition! I would just block it up as Chris suggests

However before finally fitting the body back I would have the engine and gearbox back in and the car on its wheels

as the chassis will have its normal "running" defection in it

Regards

Dale

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I've seen Colin and his colleagues at work over many, many years and assessed carefully quite a few of their chassis. That's quite some jig they've got, and they do know how to make the best of it. I'd be amazed if they ever produce less than a 100% chassis, never mind let it out of the door.

 

Usual disclaimers, I just buy stuff from CTM occasionally, but credit where it's due . . . .

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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When doing full body and chassis restoration regardless of new or repaired chassis, the chassis is your jig and you will be building the shell to suit it. So when doing floors sills and all the other bits of rot needed on the shell and the outer panels, you will need it mounted on the chassis with it supported under each axle line. Best done with a completely bare chassis mounted dead level and all the necessary body shims fitted. Once the shell is finished then it can be removed (with suitable bracing) and chassis and shell painted seperately. Then build up the chassis to rolling, drop the shell on to the mounts loosely, fit the engine and box and roll the shell backwards and forwards a couple of times to settle the suspension. Then check the body for level again before bolting down. Dont forget to apply sealer around the bolts inside the cab area when fiitting.

Stuart.

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Stuart,

 

Why wouldn't you fit the engine & gearbox before you replace the bodyshell?

 

I carried out all the major repairs to the bodyshell with it on the chassis before removing it to clean it up ready for painting. Once that is complete I am planning to rebuild the chassis to rolling, add the engine & gearbox (but without the carbs) and then lower the bodyshell over the top, loosely bolt on the wings and align the doors etc whilst shimming the body and chassis.

 

Will this work?

 

Rgds Ian

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Stuart,

 

Why wouldn't you fit the engine & gearbox before you replace the bodyshell?

 

I carried out all the major repairs to the bodyshell with it on the chassis before removing it to clean it up ready for painting. Once that is complete I am planning to rebuild the chassis to rolling, add the engine & gearbox (but without the carbs) and then lower the bodyshell over the top, loosely bolt on the wings and align the doors etc whilst shimming the body and chassis.

 

Will this work?

 

Rgds Ian

That would work just as well Ian. The only reason I said put engine and box in after fitting the shell is on 4/4a/5/6 because they have a fixed front panel you cant walk the shell up onto the chassis from behind as you can with a sidescreen shell. The height required to drop over the engine on the later cars can be problematical if you dont have a bunch of strong lads or a sling from the roof of your workshop ;) Lets face it most of us are doing all this on our own so its better to know techniques that are easiest for that sort of situation

Stuart.

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Hi

I did as you suggest and lower the body over the engine (all ancillaries removed).

 

A few strong lads for lifting and a nimble one for dealing with any snags etc. and job done.

 

I didn't fancy trying to fit the engine through the body - Just preference I supose!

 

Ade

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