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Clatter over bumps?


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Going on bumpy surfaces I have a clatter that seems to come from the drivers side door/wing area (RHD).

 

I thought it might be the window glass or mechanism but the noise is still just the same ragardless of whether the window is raised or lowered. The door hinges are tight and it makes no difference if I hold the window, the winders or door handle.

 

Rather than start stripping needlessly I wonder if anyone could give me some pointers?

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Hi Quark.

 

Heres a few things you can try to find the rattle.

 

1..Find a bit of bumpy road where it happens at low speed,then drive along when its quiet holding your d/s door open!

 

If its gone it could then be the door rattling in its recess.

 

2..Was there once an aerial on the d/s wing,and now just a hole?

 

If so, the old aerial could be rattling behind the splash panel under the wing!

 

3..Get underneath and check that the exhaust to gearbox mounting point is secure.

 

This can fracture or work loose!

 

4..Do you have the rubber bonnet location cones located in the corner of the front deck and wing?

 

If these are missing,broken,or not adjusted right,it can cause the bonnet to rattle in that area!

 

5.. It could be the one of the window guide channels that is loose in the doors frame.

 

With the window wound up or down this can rattle.Check their securing bolts!!

 

6.. Could also be a foreign object inside the doors body itself!!

 

Remove door panel and have a rummage!

 

Rattles,knocks,clunks,squeaks,vibrations,can be a real pain in the bum to track down,and they can end up coming from nowhere near where you think it is!!

 

Persistence and patience,and elimination are the only way to track these suckers down!!

 

That little lot should keep you busy for a while!! :P

Best of luck in the hunt!!

 

Dave

Edited by PILKIE
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Going on bumpy surfaces I have a clatter that seems to come from the drivers side door/wing area (RHD).

 

I thought it might be the window glass or mechanism but the noise is still just the same ragardless of whether the window is raised or lowered. The door hinges are tight and it makes no difference if I hold the window, the winders or door handle.

 

Rather than start stripping needlessly I wonder if anyone could give me some pointers?

 

In addition to Dave's excellent list, make sure all of the soft top frame mounting bolts are present and tight. I think there are three of them on each side. If one is missing or loose it will allow the plate that secures it to rattle inside the B post.

 

Stan

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In addition to Dave's excellent list, make sure all of the soft top frame mounting bolts are present and tight. I think there are three of them on each side. If one is missing or loose it will allow the plate that secures it to rattle inside the B post.

 

Stan

 

Cheers Stan :P

 

Knew I would forget an obvious possibility!!

Also...

The seat runners where they bolt to the floor!!

There is also a chassis/body mount point under the floor pan carpet,it could be a spacer between the body/chassis rattling!!

 

Dave

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Thanks to everyone for their help. I think I will try the option of removing the door panel and rummaging first?

 

The noise is definately more of a clatter than a rattle so I think I am looking for something big and loose - like a door or a window rather than something small and rattley like a washer?

 

Next I will try the old aerial option - how is the splash panel removed to gain access?

 

Does this make sense?

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Thanks to everyone for their help. I think I will try the option of removing the door panel and rummaging first?

 

The noise is definately more of a clatter than a rattle so I think I am looking for something big and loose - like a door or a window rather than something small and rattley like a washer?

 

Next I will try the old aerial option - how is the splash panel removed to gain access?

 

Does this make sense?

 

Always makes sense to do the easy checks first and work your way down to the full body of resto :rolleyes:

 

Check the hood bracket bolts also, especially the lower bolt.

 

Stan

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Thanks to everyone for their help. I think I will try the option of removing the door panel and rummaging first?

 

The noise is definately more of a clatter than a rattle so I think I am looking for something big and loose - like a door or a window rather than something small and rattley like a washer?

 

Next I will try the old aerial option - how is the splash panel removed to gain access?

 

Does this make sense?

 

Item 79 Quark

Regards

Neil

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/136a.gif

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Going on bumpy surfaces I have a clatter that seems to come from the drivers side door/wing area (RHD).

 

I thought it might be the window glass or mechanism but the noise is still just the same ragardless of whether the window is raised or lowered. The door hinges are tight and it makes no difference if I hold the window, the winders or door handle.

 

Rather than start stripping needlessly I wonder if anyone could give me some pointers?

 

 

Hi Mr Quark love star trek

 

I had this prob,

 

when the window is down it is the bottom felt centre of door bracket

 

when the window is up it is the felts worn or missing in the window track, you can change these in situ with patients

 

allso it helps if you have new plastic window wipes top of door

 

hopes this helps

 

it must hurt [paying for replacement parts as quark is tight as a---holes unless he has been tickled on his ear :lol:

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Thanks to everyone for their help. I think I will try the option of removing the door panel and rummaging first?

 

The noise is definately more of a clatter than a rattle so I think I am looking for something big and loose - like a door or a window rather than something small and rattley like a washer?

 

Next I will try the old aerial option - how is the splash panel removed to gain access?

 

Does this make sense?

 

Hi Quark.

 

The Rimmers pic link ntc gives you,shows you what it looks like!!

It is located between the outer and inner wing above where a mud flap would be!!

It is held in with some hex headed fixings.

Carefully ease them undone as you do not want to snap them off.

 

Dave

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Hi Quark.

 

The Rimmers pic link ntc gives you,shows you what it looks like!!

It is located between the outer and inner wing above where a mud flap would be!!

It is held in with some hex headed fixings.

Carefully ease them undone as you do not want to snap them off.

 

Dave

 

If he looks to the right of the pic it show's that just trying to help

Neil

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If you can have another person in the car with you (preferably driving?) this will give you a chance to go through the items above.

 

I've done this myself with a passenger door open, me hanging out and listening near the ground with my wife driving slowly. Obviously you will need to place your safety at top prority by ensuring there are no obstacles nearby that could cause serious injury or worse! Anyway, I traced it to the suspension on that particular car (non TR) with this method.

 

Once again - please, please be careful if you decide to do this!

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If he looks to the right of the pic it show's that just trying to help

Neil

Check the handles on the the soft top where they clamp it to the top of the screen. These can come loose on the square drive that turns the locking pins and rattle on top ofthe screen.
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Some repro front brake pads are a loose fit in the caliper and can rattle. Try light pressure on the brake pedal while driving on a bumpy road.

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If you can have another person in the car with you (preferably driving?) this will give you a chance to go through the items above.

I've done this myself with a passenger door open, me hanging out and listening near the ground with my wife driving slowly.

I would suspect the door/window innards as a starter.

 

If you go behind the baffle plate, be ready with the Waxoyl etc. You could also pause to admire the grotto effect produced by the designer who decided that the drain water from the heater plenum should be dumped into the inner wing (there is a mod for this see the TR4 forum atm) and also the water from the back corner bonnet drain (there is a mod for this as well). The consequent holes in the top of the cill aren't a problem unless they're excessively large...

 

Anyway, back to the noise, another way to pinpoint the problem, lie on your car-creeper, attach a rope to the front, your wife holds the other end of the rope, then as she drives along you check under the car to locate the noise. Then you can sell the video to Top Gear. :P

 

Ivor

Edited by 88V8
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Anyway, back to the noise, another way to pinpoint the problem, lie on your car-creeper, attach a rope to the front, your wife holds the other end of the rope, then as she drives along you check under the car to locate the noise. Then you can sell the video to Top Gear. :P

 

Ivor

 

Just make sure you have those uprated, stiffer springs first, as you dont want that rear end squatting down on you :P

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Quark, rattles are a pain in any car. Good luck in tracking it down. I had one that had me going for ages. It turned out to be the front bumper. One of the securing bolts wasn't fully tweaked up and the bumper was squeaking up and down!

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On the subject of the brake pads rattling, is there a kit that could be purchased to take out that rattle, if there is where can I get it from please? My pads do rattle a lot.

Regards John

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John L. EBC do some self adhesive teflon pads that go between the piston and pad - don't know if they are available on their own.

 

Quark - when anything was not right my dad would often say it would be the nut behind the steering wheel - usually he was fairly close.

 

Roger

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John

 

the Anti squel shims in the fronnt pads should stop them rattling check they are in good condition.

 

Quark

 

I will lay odds on that it is the shock absorber (Damper) mounting bolts worked lose and the damper is moving over rough surfaces. The bolts are actually screws but that is being technical. Put the car on stands and see if you can tighten them.

 

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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I will lay odds on that it is the shock absorber (Damper) mounting bolts worked lose and the damper is moving over rough surfaces. The bolts are actually screws but that is being technical. Put the car on stands and see if you can tighten them.

That could be a good thought although I'd describe that particular noise as more of a clonk than a clatter.

If they are loose, then renew them because the thread in the setbolt soon distorts due to the hammering it gets when they are run loose, and after that they won't stay tight. Also, put a spring washer under the head of the bolt. If they come loose again after that, use a longer bolt that goes right through the mount, and put a spring washer and nut on the other end.

 

Ivor

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