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Valve / tappet adjustment


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After the engine was run warm I removed the rocker cover and took the thinnest blade on my feeler under each rocker arm when the engine was

running, starting from the front ,its a bit scary , but I discovered the ticking rocker arm this way.

Adjusting “running” with the appropriate size feeler gauges is a very quick method & I used to do it all the time with old motorcycle engines; these had a covered rocker with access through a screw cap. You start with a cold engine & will have finished the lot by the time it warms up enough to close up the clearances to any appreciable extent. The problem with it is acquiring a “knack” of adjusting the tappet on a moving rocker arm & it also tends to chew the ends of the feller gauges up especially if the rockers are worn. I have done it on car engines but you tend to end up with oil everywhere! :rolleyes:

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  • 5 years later...

I read this thread just after ordering a new (Gunson) click adjuster - the common wisdom is that a click adjuster is not worth it...

 

Well, I have to agree with Ivor and say that it is easier to use than juggling a screwdriver, spanner and feeler gauge - for a start, you only have one thing to hold, and secondly the handle of the built-in screwdriver is big and easier to hold steady whilst you tighten up the nut.

 

But don't scrap the feeler gauge - it took a bit of getting used to, so I found it necessary to check my first attempts with the gauge.

 

And the results? Total lack of tapping noise (where previously it was a riot...) And just to make sure I had not closed too far, I checked the gaps with a feeler gauge. I had tried many times with screwdriver + spanner + gauge and failed.

 

For reference, as mentioned on the similar thread in the TR3 forum, it's 5 clicks for .010".

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If there is any wear on the rocker tip, the feeler gauge will "bridge" the worn area over the valve stem and give an inaccurate reading. I would think (always dangerous) that cutting the feeler gauge width to slightly less than the dia. of the valve stem would provide a more accurate measurement..

Berry

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  • 5 years later...

What's the best option to use, the WSM says adjust 1 and 3 with 10 and 12 open, and so on,  I rechecked with the pistons at their TDC and find there is a difference, so which is the best to use, a CP engine on PI?

John 

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 Easy to check 1 and 6 at TDC, the others not so.     The Rule of 13 that the WSM refers to is a way of telling that, without resorting to screwdrivers down the plug hole   And as the base circle of the cam occupies more than half the circumference, I don't think that a minor error in the precise TDC will make any difference.   The cam will be a LONG way from lifting the push rod, anywhere near that point.

Do it the WSM way, Rule of Thirteen.

John 

Edited by john.r.davies
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go by firing order. So you need least turns on Crank and adjusting Inlet/outlet of each cylinder at once. 

adjust 1 --> with 6 in overlap

adjust 5 --> with 2 in overlap

adjust 3 --> with 4 in overlap

adjust 6 --> with 1 in overlap

adjust 2 --> with 5 in overlap

adjust 4 --> with 3 in overlap

Jochem

Edited by JochemsTR
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I've got an electric fan, and there's barely any clearance down the front for the big monkey wrench which is all I have capable of gripping the nut on the crank pulley. I recommendations for an easy method of turning the crank engine off? 

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I took a spare socket, drilled and tapped the side to take length of threaded rod, with a length of threaded tube on the end to save my hand.    Think I've posted a pic in the modified tools thread.

John

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2 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:

Adrian,

Top gear hand brake off and move (nudge) the car. No good on slopes or with automatics though.

Alan

Variation on this theme:

Top gear, jack one rear wheel off the ground, then turn that wheel by hand.

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