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Back-to-front or not, they do look the part and I've always wanted to experience the aeroscreen experience. Alas, I've already been told in no uncertain terms I can't have any :( . Perhaps SWMBO might be persuaded otherwise if a test-drive/demo could be arranged (on a suitably warm, sunny day :unsure: ).

 

Meanwhile, what is the recommended most secure (from the joint perpectives of safety and theft-prevention) for fitting to a post-TS60000 TR3A without the captive/cage nuts (without major dismantling)?

Edited by BrianC
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hi andrew, they look good! but, forgive me if i'm wrong, haven't you got them on backwards? i think the idea is that you can refit the windscreen and leave the feet (and possibly the aeroscreens) still mounted on the scuttle. cheers alan

Alan, Don

 

They can be fitted either way. However, the photos I've seen of the original Areoscreen show the feet facing rearwards. These are not fitted' to TRK as yet, they are just fitted to allow the bonding to set, hence the screen is vertical. They will not fit behind the screen fitted this way and will have to be turned round for that. Then again, I rarely have the screen fitted so that's not a big problem. B) That said, I have already had my 'orders' for CLM 2010, although the areoscreens will still be taken in the boot!

 

 

 

Brian

 

I may be wrong (Tom will correct me) but you will ideally need to secure them with a nut under the scuttle, as if you try using self tappers or the like you run the risk of the fixing pulling through as happened with one of my Brooklands fixings. This will of course be the most security minded method also.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Hi all,

 

If fitting repro original aeroscreens to a later car without the factory fixing points, two holes per aeroscreen have to be drilled through the scuttle.

 

The original fixings were chromed, slightly dome headed bolts with a 7/16" hex head, and 5/16 thread that screwed down into captive nuts beneath the scuttle.

 

For positioning, the inner fixing bolts were 3 5/8" either side of the centreline of the rear mirror stem.

 

Fixings for later cars could be a chromed or stainless steel hex head bolt and nut, with flat and locking washers.

 

Use a gasket beneath the feet that won't compress, or the front of the foot kicks up when the aeroscreen is tightened down.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

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Hi all,

 

If fitting repro original aeroscreens to a later car without the factory fixing points, two holes per aeroscreen have to be drilled through the scuttle.

 

The original fixings were chromed, slightly dome headed bolts with a 7/16" hex head, and 5/16 thread that screwed down into captive nuts beneath the scuttle.

 

For positioning, the inner fixing bolts were 3 5/8" either side of the centreline of the rear mirror stem.

 

Fixings for later cars could be a chromed or stainless steel hex head bolt and nut, with flat and locking washers.

 

Use a gasket beneath the feet that won't compress, or the front of the foot kicks up when the aeroscreen is tightened down.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

the real thing mounted on the scuttle of the grey lady.

 

DSC01238.jpg

 

mounting hardware - dome bolt and washer - both chrome plated

 

Aeroscreens007.jpg

 

underside of scuttle showing caged nut for mounting bolt Aeroscreens004.jpg

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Thanks Andrew, Viv & Frank.

 

In addition to deleting the aeroscreen fixing holes, Triumph also changed the windscreen stanchion fiixings from quick-release dzus fasteners to bl**dy awkward screws on post-TS60000 cars, so I guess they really wanted to get away from the vintage car look. Anyone wishing to fit aeroscreens to the later cars would be well-advised to fix the stanchion locating plates to the scuttle, as it's easy for them to drop when removing the windscreen. I found out the hard way when removing mine to attempt to fit the rearview mirror after the rebuild. Luckily, the paintwork escaped damage and I just got a sore toe :blink: .

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Frank

 

These are great photos, thanks.

 

Regards

Andrew

 

 

the real thing mounted on the scuttle of the grey lady.

 

DSC01238.jpg

 

mounting hardware - dome bolt and washer - both chrome plated

 

Aeroscreens007.jpg

 

underside of scuttle showing caged nut for mounting bolt Aeroscreens004.jpg

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Guest colinTR2

"my original frames were polished and milled where required."

 

Andrew, is the milling for the slot to take the rubber seal?

They look good, certainly better than I expected, though I will wait and look at the costs for both complete and modified Brooklands!!

 

cheers

Colin

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"my original frames were polished and milled where required." Andrew, is the milling for the slot to take the rubber seal? They look good, certainly better than I expected, though I will wait and look at the costs for both complete and modified Brooklands!! cheers Colin

Hi Colin

 

No the rubber draught seal will be fitted with a strong impact adhesive. The milling was to the frame channel to take the glass - my Brooklands glass was about 5-6mm and the new glass (6.5mm) was too tight in the frame so Tom milled it for a better fit.

 

I have no idea of the cost of the Brooklands conversion or reproduction Areoscreens, although I would expect the latter to be more expensive.

 

Regards

Andrew

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello fellow sidescreeners

 

A quick update on my original Brooklands conversion to Aeroscreens:

 

I fitted the screen seals this afternoon and the things look bloody fantastic and could almost be mistaken for the real thing!! That said, I am not pretending they are something they are not and therefore have not had the original raised 'Brooklands' wording polished out.

 

They are not completely finished yet as I still have some minor fettling to do, but I'm off out for a test drive tomorrow anyway as I can't wait!

 

In the meantime here the little beauties are:

 

 

 

And a photo of the an original Areoscreen for comparison:

 

 

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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Thanks Andrew, Viv & Frank.

 

In addition to deleting the aeroscreen fixing holes, Triumph also changed the windscreen stanchion fiixings from quick-release dzus fasteners to bl**dy awkward screws on post-TS60000 cars, so I guess they really wanted to get away from the vintage car look. Anyone wishing to fit aeroscreens to the later cars would be well-advised to fix the stanchion locating plates to the scuttle, as it's easy for them to drop when removing the windscreen. I found out the hard way when removing mine to attempt to fit the rearview mirror after the rebuild. Luckily, the paintwork escaped damage and I just got a sore toe :blink: .

 

Not at all. Your welcome!

Here's a note regarding inconsistencies at Canley. Although not considered standard at it's period in production, my 3A, TS58476 LO is actually fitted for aero screens. I never gave this much thought originally because I have always wanted to add them regardless. I guess I hadn't bothered to look closely at my BMIHT certificate. Upon further inspection it is clearly stated under other notes, "provision for aero screens". This turned out to be fairly simple with 4 holes to drill and adding 4 weld-nuts or maybe they found and older body shell and used that. It all makes sense now since this car had originally been purchased by a Bell Telephone executive from New Jersey. He had been known to do a bit of club racing and autoXing on weekends. I bought it from him in the late 1980's and he had already been retired for a number of years.

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Frank - They wouldn't have used an older skuttle. They tried to get rid of all remaining parts when they made a change. Also the hinges for your bonnet over the engine compartment would be flush as on my early TR3A. If you have the raised bases for those hinges, then S-T must have added the weld-nuts specially.

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I would love to get a set of feet for my early 60's aeroscreens. They will look fantastic on the car when she is done. I'm picking up the rebuilt motor on monday. Regards Paul Bos Escalon, Ca USA

Paul

 

Drop Tom Maddock a PM and I'm sure he will make you a pair of feet (if not already in stock) and post them off.

 

The beauty over the Brooklands pedestal type feet is the lower frame height which stops the under-draft (particularly with the seals fitted) but unless you change the glass for the higher areoscreen pattern you will not gain any benefit as your standard glass will be lowered by about 20mm.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello fellow sidescreeners

 

My Brooklands-Aeroscreen conversions are now fitted and looking great, see below 'before' and 'after' pictures.

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

 

 

 

An article will hopefully be appearing in the next TRAction – so whatch that space!

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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Bet you will lose 5mph now Andrew ;) . Looks as if they are quite a bit taller overall. Now where are you going to put the tax disc :blink: I would like to see them in the flesh as they do look the part.

Stuart

Edited by stuart
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Hi Stuart,

 

not quite 5mph, you can rake back the screens a little more without blinding yourself with the wind rush . . . . about 1.8mph or just under 100rpm flat in 4th on Lavant straight in a TR3, c1979.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

I knew you would have a definitive answer to that one Alec! ;)

Andrew you will have to get a mirror cowl now to make up the difference :lol:

Stuart.

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I knew you would have a definitive answer to that one Alec! ;) Andrew you will have to get a mirror cowl now to make up the difference :lol: Stuart.

Yeah, but, I can take it off when out driving with you in your 4 though! :lol:

 

My Brooklands-Aeroscreen conversions will be at Stoneleigh on Sunday on Tom Maddock's stand.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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These Brooklands conversions and the full works replica screens will be on show at the Triumph show this weekend

 

I will be posting pictures of the works replica screens tomorrow evening.

 

All tooling is now finished and the first batch will be available soon

 

(priority will be given to people who have already put their names down)

Edited by Tom Maddock
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