JOHN'S TR6 Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Well the head on my Gear box oil filler plug is completely deformed. Why o why i didn't fit a new one when i checked the oil a couple of years ago, but there you go; only cost £1.80 for a new one. It is though some prangster has welded up the plug and then played with the head profile; enter Jeremy Beadle. The correct spanner won't work and i can not file the head down to any thing suitable so i am going to have to drill it out. I have protected the gears inside. What I want to know is if any one can give me a clue as to the shape of the hole. Is it just a straight through hole with the thread stopping short of straight through ? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 (edited) Have you tried a pair of 'Stilsons' pipe grips on it...... if still no go then weld on a large nut, before drilling it out, (it's a straight thru hole) john Edited November 7, 2008 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graham.dillaway Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Hi, I had a similar problem so I welded a nut onto the stub of the plug - This works really well - No problem getting the plug out now. regards Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMS Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 John And, very easy to say after the event but guess why I know!!, replace the b****y plug with a magnetic drain plug which has a nice large nut on it, 13/16" I think on mine. It's a direct replacement and so much easier. Regards Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted November 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 John and Graham. Thanks for your help on this. Welding a nut on. Thats a brilliant idea. The head is now non exsistant and things may have gone a bit far now. It is a relief to know that it is a straight through though Thanks again John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 As the coefficient of expansion of aluminium alloy (gearbox casing) is greater than that of iron (the plug), I suggest you try to undo the plug immediately after the car has had a good run and everything is as warm as you can manage. The techniques suggested above are all very helpful. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crownwheel Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 John Even if there is a bit of the plug left, the tool you need is a "Speedwrench". Only ever seen in the Screwfix catalogue for a tenner. I have had one for 30 or more years and it has got me out of "last resort" situations many times. The harder you pull the more it digs in and despite the odd "extention handle" it has never broken. Simple tools are the best. Given the history of many of our TRs and the varing skills of their owners there are often nuts that have long lost their hexagonal perfection and need a different approach. Also... have you tried a stud extractor? You may not have to drill right through the remainder of the stud to get enough grip particularly if combined with Ian Cs thermal differential solution. Best of luck. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Another tip is to wind some PTPE tape onto the filler plug (also applies to the sump) - not only does it reduce the drips of oil but helps stop it from seizing in too tight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted November 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 (edited) Thanks for all your help on this one. The dam thing would not budge. In the end I drilled it out, which was quite scary, as I became worried about cracking the casting. It took 2 days. In the end I cleared the hole to about 14mm with a drill bit and one of those hobby Dremmel gadgets. I then attempted to re-thread to 16mm and then low and behold, the outer ring of the old bolt popped out revealing the original thread. Result. I thought I would have to put in a different bolt with a metric thread but I have been able to put the in a new triumph bolt filler plug. I will be using cooper eaze in future, or as Andy has just mentioned, PTFE tape. John Edited November 14, 2008 by JOHN'S TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mart160plus Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Slightly off topic, and a basic request for some help please ! My gearbox / clutch is making some intresting noises. A ticking sound when the clutch is depressed, but now I'm also getting some noises when the clutch is not engaged and the car is not in gear. When in gear and motoring it is fine. I'd like to check the gearbox oil. Where's the filler, and is there a dipstick type device ? Is there somewhere I can go (web) that gives me an idea of some of the simpler TR6 tasks ? Please excuse my naivety. Cheers. :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Slightly off topic, and a basic request for some help please ! My gearbox / clutch is making some intresting noises. A ticking sound when the clutch is depressed, but now I'm also getting some noises when the clutch is not engaged and the car is not in gear. When in gear and motoring it is fine. I'd like to check the gearbox oil. Where's the filler, and is there a dipstick type device ? Is there somewhere I can go (web) that gives me an idea of some of the simpler TR6 tasks ? Please excuse my naivety. Cheers. :-) Hi Mart, Sounds to me as if you may have a clutch release problem, i would firstly check that your clutch fluid is at the correct level and you havent got any leaks., and that slave cylinder is securely fixed, pushrod etc. This is a good site for info on clutch etc. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm Plus of course have a search here , top right button. Gearbox oil filler, well sorry no dipstick, there is a square nut on the left side of the gearbox, you fill up there till oil starts to come out. Access to this nut can be a pain, lift the carpet and have a look at the tunnel cover there may be an access cover. If not you have two options really, make an access hole for now and future use, or try an access from underneath. Good Luck and letus know what happens. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Hi Mart, I had a similar ticking noise on my 4A in/out or engaging gear. The fingers on the clutch pressure plate had almost been worn through by a sticky release bearing that had stopped rotating - gear box out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.