Chris59 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Hi Alec, Believe me, when I say the fuel gauge is dead, it is really dead, and I don't want to crawl again under the 8 for the price of a gauge . I can't keep a TR8 gauge as it haven't the connection for the fuel pipe. I already have a new good, very reliable fuel pump, who is made to be used in the engine bay, but I have also another model of the same company who is made to be use near the tank, so I have the choice : less heat near the fuel tank, but easy access in the engine bay..... As write previously (25/12, Christmas gift ), the camshaft is dead, I may replace it with a mild road or equivalent. I will contact Realsteel for my parts, they may be helpfull, as you are the second one to give me this link . Cheers, Chris. Edited January 9, 2009 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hi Chris, from my experience of V8s, I'd stick with a pump location close to the tank and leave the filter/regulator underbonnet. It's not hard to access a pump on the rear bulkhead, bolted through underneath the trim panel behind the seats. They rarely seem to give trouble mounted there, whereas underbonnet installations do seem to be more problematic and less reliable. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) Hi Alec, I will certainly follow your advice, as the pump is also close to the tank in my MGB's and my Stag : there must be some good reasons to do this that way.... Cheers, Chris. Edited January 16, 2009 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 If I can just throw in my penny, Im sure you have already done it but just so it doesn't get missed dont forget to fit some kind of inertia switch so that if the worst happens the fuel gets turned off. They are also handy as it makes the car harder to pinch or of you are working on it. Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hi Chris, good advice from Ian ! The reason I prefer a rear location for the Facet pump is that it seems to be better at pushing than pulling, better at blowing than sucking if you prefer, although it doesn't need the 'head' of fuel that many low-mounted Bosch pumps require. I haven't personally come across problems with rear mounted pumps failing, whereas underbonnet mounting seems to be rather less reliable . . . . Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wayne S Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) If I can just throw in my penny, Im sure you have already done it but just so it doesn't get missed dont forget to fit some kind of inertia switch so that if the worst happens the fuel gets turned off. They are also handy as it makes the car harder to pinch or of you are working on it. Cheers Ian Mine has an oil pressure switch allowing the pump to only run when the oil pressure reaches a certain level. In the event of an accident this means the moment the engine stops, as does the pump. This was standard equipment on Rover SD1 Vitesse's and 3500's. Wayne Edited January 17, 2009 by Wayne S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hello, Ian, you are absolutly right to talk about this : I will check, as it is an original TR8 with an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank, if there is, or not, an inertia switch, as on my PI's Triumphs. I have the TR8 workshop manual, the electrical drawing should show me this detail. Wayne, it is really interesting : may be it this sort of thing on the TR8 instead of an inertia switch ? Again, I may find the answer in the workshop manual. Alec, as write previously, I have in stock differents kinds of new fuel pump, some are made to be used near the fuel tank (more pushing than sucking) and some are for an engine bay fitment (more sucking than pushing). I haven't decide yet which supplier I will use for my engine parts, so spend some time on dismantling, sandblasting, repainting, etc, all the suspension and subframe parts. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted February 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 Some news about the TR8 : I have collected the engine parts from Real Steel yesterday morning Regrind crankshaft and bearings, timing chain kit, mild road camshaft, oil pump, valves and modified guides, rings, followers, etc, are now new. I now just need to find some time to rebuilt the engine ....... Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 (edited) No news since february the 8th ! Time for an update ! I have prepared all the parts for the engine, decoke the bore and pistons, clean everything, check the pistons rings gaps in the bores, etc.... Now I have a problem : what mean "piston thrust face" ? It should be the "pushed face" (ie the right side for the right banks, and the left side for the left bank), isn't it ? As I would like to rebuilt the engine tomorrow, please help ! The heads are ready, reskimmed with new valves guides and valves (stainless steel). The TR8 itself is now on wheels, with every front or rear suspension parts (front subframe, suspension arms, springs, etc...) shot blasted and sprayed in black, polyurethanes bushes all round, Spax shocks, new rear brakes, EBC brake pads at the front, 3 braided hoses, new tyres, radiator, etc.... The new fuel tank and fuel gauge are where they should be, but I haven't yet prepared the new fuel pump. Cheers, Chris. Edited June 11, 2009 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Nobody knows what mean "piston thrust face" ? Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 ... what mean "piston thrust face" ? It should be the "pushed face" (ie the right side for the right banks, and the left side for the left bank), isn't it ? I believe you are correct but if you Google "piston thrust face" you will get plenty of help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Hi Brian, I have "googled" this yesterday, but to realised that the "piston thrust face" is not the same on all engines, it was not clear enough ! It may aswell be the side of the spark plug, who is the same side on TR8, but I really need a confirmation. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hello guys, Before to put the heads on the block, may I ask if a complete V8 + 5 speed gearbox (minus carbs, etc, but with heads) can be shoe horned in a TR8 without removing the subframe and/or steering rack ? Not sure of this, at it is the first TR8 I have in my workshop...... Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 I think you can put the engine and gearbox in together but you will probably have to lift the rear end of the car to get yourself the space required. I have always prefered to drop the sub frame and bring the complete assembly up from underneath. If you do go in over the top take some time to cover up the front panel and the area where the bonett hinges mount - I have seen some dreadfull damage done by people not watching what they are doing. Glad to hear you are getting close to an end. Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi Chris, As Ian points out, you'll have to lift the rear of the car well up in the air, and the engine/gearbox unit has to go in at quite a steep angle . . . . . clearance is absolutely minimal, at the trailing edge of the front panel and at the lower edge of the bulkhead. Millimetres not centimetres ! 3 pairs of hands are desirable - one on the crane, one leaning over the engine bay, one under the car - preferably in a pit, as we do it. Go very carefully, you may well need two or three attempts to get the right angle of dangle, adjusting the fixing between the engine and the crane to achieve the correct positioning. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Hello Ian and Alec, Thanks for your replies and support. Do you think I'd rather put the heads on the engine AFTER, once engine and gearbox are in the car, to gain more clearance ? Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Hi Chris, No, I don't recall the heads as being too much of an issue . . . . Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Agreed I dont think its the height but the length that causes the most problems. Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Hello Alec and Ian, Ok, so I will put the heads first on the engine. Hope the engine will be cooperative to go in, hopefully next week, if I have got the time to do the job. I spent actually a lot of time on some of my others Triumph, as they must be ready for a club rally this Sunday..... Thanks for your help, Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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