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Leaky Injectors?


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Guy

Shut up and live with it is not an option (especially as decent injector innards are now getting thin on the ground quote Richard)

This is why most suppliers are having problems not only with injectors they are trying to recondition units that have already been reconditioned many times :(

 

Hi Neil,

 

Surely if they can produce new stuff in Holland, it can be done in Uk. :blink:

 

Or perhaps injectors are being fitted, they work, they are ok :rolleyes: , not noticing that they are seeping :o , as i have found out. Perhaps the suppliers should be made aware and they can produce some decent gear. When mine is sorted i will be making my suppliers aware

 

My previous set were seeping, my recon relacements were leaking, the guy who reset all blow offs had problems got them as best he could and two ok four leak. I think as Richard has sead its also to do with the angle of the valve seats and or lack of preparation to these areas also.

 

So new set, different supplier, very helpful and knowledgeable. Will see what we will see.

 

Ho hum

 

 

Guy

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Guy

 

Thanks for your PM, yup Sweden was great.

 

Guys

 

I do not see why the contact should not be widely available.

 

With the caveat that I have seen one sample inner only and not fitted or used one.

 

The contact is

 

r.brejaart@tiscali.nl

 

The price I was quoted is €40.00 for a single inner and €200.00 for six. No mention of P&P on the paperwork I have. And certainly, nor would I expect, any mention of exchange or return of the old inner. These are brand new items.

 

I would stress this is an inner only, you fit it into your existing injector body.

 

If somebody does contact Mr Brejaart perhaps they could post back here?

 

Regards

 

Tim

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the main reason correct starting technique is important with Lucas PI’s. ;)

 

Richard,

I expect you have detailed this before, but please do so again.

 

My race Vitesse with TR6 Pi engine doesn't start easily, but then it isn't started every day.

My method is to:

Churn with short blasts of the starter, to ease the battery strain and allow the drained down injector lines to refill.

As soon as any sign of ignition, stop. Wait a whole minute and then try again.

It usually then fires on the second or third cycle, but you can count the cylinders coming in, from four to five and six.

I find this rather endearing, coaxing it back to life, but I'd value knowing your own method.

 

John

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My method is to:

Churn with short blasts of the starter, to ease the battery strain and allow the drained down injector lines to refill.

As soon as any sign of ignition, stop. Wait a whole minute and then try again.

It usually then fires on the second or third cycle, but you can count the cylinders coming in, from four to five and six.

Not much different:

 

• Turn on ignition, & leave for around 10 seconds after you hear the pump change pitch.

• Apply full choke (or excess fuel lever to be technically correct)

• Hit the starter in bursts of around 5 seconds to prime the injector lines.

Here’s where I differ!

• When it starts to catch I just keep going with the starter & open the throttles at the same time – this helps prevent the cylinders that are actually getting fuel going over rich from flooding; diminishing returns! Obviously don’t churn the starter into oblivion but I’ve found it usually spins ever faster & fires up within a few seconds.

• It usually needs at least 4 cylinders to fire up, as you say, but as soon as it does, giving the throttle some judicious jabs will quickly encourage the remaining cylinders to wake up!

• Drive off & push choke in ASAP.

 

I wouldn’t advise churning on the starter for any longer than around 30 seconds total in one hit if it doesn’t fire up (rare) for fear of cooking the windings; leave it for 5 minutes to cool down then come back & have another go. ;)

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Hi

 

Fitted new lot of injectors,Uk source, same problems continue, :(

 

Combined with my increase in tickover, probable cause being a ridge in number six inlet, i give up.

 

Will give this some thought over, and decide my next move.

 

Thanks to All

 

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Guest ianwright11
Hi

 

Fitted new lot of injectors,Uk source, same problems continue, :(

 

Combined with my increase in tickover, probable cause being a ridge in number six inlet, i give up.

 

Will give this some thought over, and decide my next move.

 

Thanks to All

 

Guy

 

Guy,

 

Sorry to read of your ongoing frustrations, as one who is about to service and/or replace injectors as is necessary, can I ask you what you mean by a "ridge in number 6 inlet"

 

Many thanks

 

Ian Wright

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Guy,

 

Sorry to read of your ongoing frustrations, as one who is about to service and/or replace injectors as is necessary, can I ask you what you mean by a "ridge in number 6 inlet"

 

Many thanks

 

Ian Wright

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

What i meant was more like a groove in the side of the inlet where the butterfly closes, causing passage of air.

Do yourself a favour and dont test the injectors as i have ie ignition on, no spark.. You dont need to know

 

Good Luck

 

Guy

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Guest ianwright11
Hi Ian,

 

What i meant was more like a groove in the side of the inlet where the butterfly closes, causing passage of air.

Do yourself a favour and dont test the injectors as i have ie ignition on, no spark.. You dont need to know

 

Good Luck

 

Guy

 

Guy,

 

Thanks for that.

 

Ian

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Fitted new lot of injectors,Uk source, same problems continue, :(

 

Combined with my increase in tickover, probable cause being a ridge in number six inlet, i give up.

Wrong conclusion Guy:

You've proved that's what injectors do.

So you ain't fixed it 'cos it ain't broke.

 

Ridges, they happen when there's no throttle stop on the linkage and the (hard) butterflies close onto the (soft) throttle body.

Tickover should ideally be about 900 rpm to ensure continued mist lubrication to the camshaft.

Carbon sealed mine, and my bodies aren't even circular - legacy of an overenthusiastic polishing session in the late 1970s. When the car came back from Prestige, tickover was above 1,000 rpm with the bleed valve closed, Malcolm said it would seal, and it has, now it's 700 rpm with the bleed valve open.

If yours is high, carbon build-up will take care of it after a few hundred miles - when you stop fiddling with it. <_<

 

Next move - :blink: so you want to be running a 3,000-view thread on supercharger problems next ?

Or a 6,000 viewer on Webers ??

Plenty of expertise on the island is there, to help you :wacko:

 

Car's going well, you said. You achieved that. Enjoy it.

Forget all this navel-gazing stuff. :P

 

Ivor

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Wrong conclusion Guy:

You've proved that's what injectors do.

So you ain't fixed it 'cos it ain't broke.

 

Next move - :blink: so you want to be running a 3,000-view thread on supercharger problems next ?

Or a 6,000 viewer on Webers ??

Plenty of expertise on the island is there, to help you :wacko:

 

Car's going well, you said. You achieved that. Enjoy it.

Forget all this navel-gazing stuff. :P

 

Ivor

 

 

I will shut up then. :huh:

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Wrong conclusion Guy:

You've proved that's what injectors do.

So you ain't fixed it 'cos it ain't broke.

 

Ridges, they happen when there's no throttle stop on the linkage and the (hard) butterflies close onto the (soft) throttle body.

Tickover should ideally be about 900 rpm to ensure continued mist lubrication to the camshaft.

Carbon sealed mine, and my bodies aren't even circular - legacy of an overenthusiastic polishing session in the late 1970s. When the car came back from Prestige, tickover was above 1,000 rpm with the bleed valve closed, Malcolm said it would seal, and it has, now it's 700 rpm with the bleed valve open.

If yours is high, carbon build-up will take care of it after a few hundred miles - when you stop fiddling with it. <_<

 

Next move - :blink: so you want to be running a 3,000-view thread on supercharger problems next ?

Or a 6,000 viewer on Webers ??

Plenty of expertise on the island is there, to help you :wacko:

 

Car's going well, you said. You achieved that. Enjoy it.

Forget all this navel-gazing stuff. :P

 

Ivor

 

Ivor

If the the throttle bodies have excessive ridges they are only good for the bin.

 

Regards

Neil

Edited by ntc
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Ivor

If the the throttle bodies have excessive ridges they are only good for the bin.

 

Regards

Neil

 

Now THAT'S just stirring it!

John

Edited by john.r.davies
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Hi

 

Fitted new lot of injectors,Uk source, same problems continue, :(

 

Combined with my increase in tickover, probable cause being a ridge in number six inlet, i give up.

 

Will give this some thought over, and decide my next move.

 

Thanks to All

 

Guy

Hi Guy

Well that really is bad news &, for me, very confusing! The ridge on the inlet tract is less than ideal but if it’s not causing too many probs, you can still get the idle speed down & it’s reasonably even, don’t worry about it too much; you obviously have more important issues to sort!

 

It's got to be one of the longest running sagas & I’m stumped now & don’t really know what to suggest next; If I was still commuting to your wonderful island (you know the story), I would be only too glad to drop in & take up the challenge. Don’t despair & junk the PI, you will find the problem & solve it; a blast along the straight from St Brelade will undoubtedly make you feel better & I will have a think about it in the meantime!

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Ivor

If the the throttle bodies have excessive ridges they are only good for the bin.

 

Regards

Neil

 

 

Hi Neil and guy,

 

what i would like to no is were do you buy carbon build up, is in made by araldite are a similar company :lol:

 

all said and done guy i think you have done really well with these problems, they make you want to pull your hair out,

one thing after another, i thing the system you are running has past its sell by date and needed refurbishment,

and you are succeeding in that by taking one issue at a time. refurbishing the throttle bodies

(in an engineering manor :rolleyes:) will finish the project, and over

the next few years you will be able to help others out with similar problems

 

the buterflies on the 6 will hit the throttle bodies hopefully lightly every thing wares out

 

regards pinky

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Guy

 

Thanks for your PM, yup Sweden was great.

 

Guys

 

I do not see why the contact should not be widely available.

 

With the caveat that I have seen one sample inner only and not fitted or used one.

 

The contact is

 

r.brejaart@tiscali.nl

 

The price I was quoted is €40.00 for a single inner and €200.00 for six. No mention of P&P on the paperwork I have. And certainly, nor would I expect, any mention of exchange or return of the old inner. These are brand new items.

 

I would stress this is an inner only, you fit it into your existing injector body.

 

If somebody does contact Mr Brejaart perhaps they could post back here?

 

Regards

 

Tim

 

 

I have been in contact with Rudy, and here is a copy nof his e mail

 

 

Dear Guy

 

You asked for further information with regard to the injectors I produce.

 

Over the last 30 years or so I have been revising used Triumph TR and Maserati injectors. The latter years it became very obvious that revision was impossible because the injectors were simply worn out and in particular the needle valve and valve seat

 

Spare parts were not available any more so this meant starting a new line of production. In this case the fabrication is extremely difficult. For years I have tried to find a producer who was willing, and able, to make these parts for me in small quantities

I finally succeeded in finding a producer who was willing to cooperate with the development of a perfectly functioning injector.

A long period of tests followed with the help of my friend and his Lucas testingbench.

Through miniscule modifications I have even been able to improve the spraying!

My injectors are made from the highest quality material and differ from the original ones because I have chosen for a metal with the best characteristics. This especially applies to the hard steel needle valve and its less hard brass valve seat. This has proven to be a good choice.

 

My injectors are adjusted to the right pressure ( 3.4 – 3.5 Atm. ) which means that they can be immediately placed in the injector’s casing.

 

Meanwhile I am writing instructions how to dismantle the old and assemble the new injector.

I have read the internet-report with regard to the Dutch view to trade and price.

I believe that my price of € 40 (Euro) for a new injector and € 200 (Euro) for a set of six is not unreasonable and that the price does definitely not greatly exceed the price of a revision set.

It is only because I am a greatly inspired private sports car owner, who has been able to produce an extremely difficult to fabricate part, that I can maintain this price. I can assure you that an official firm would ask a much higher price, perhaps even double the price, in order to cover the costs.

I am, however, compelled to annually increase the price according to the tax-rises in the production line.

Should my customers be willing to pay a little extra then I will consider providing them with an auxiliary tool as mentioned in the instructions.

 

At this very moment a new batch of injectors is in production and so I can only supply you with the ones still in stock.

 

I am proud to say that, over the last couple of years, numerous amounts of cars around the world have successfully been using my injectors and none have shown defects.

 

I hope that I have been able to supply you with sufficient information and also give you some idea of the whole process.

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Rudy Brejaart

 

I find this very interesting and will pursue it further, thats if i dont convert to the dark side.

 

Regards

 

Guy

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I find this very interesting and will pursue it further, thats if i dont convert to the dark side.

 

If by chance you mean those horrid Webers <_< the main risk to going over is that you'll never go back. That depends on getting them calibrated, the sole negative associated therewith. For a regular driver the reliability and longevity ( not to say performance ) are stellar and beyond compare.

 

For a show car the P.I. is without a doubt the first choice for originality's sake. One could always put the P.I. system into long-term storage, properly preserved, for such an eventuality. But even for a show car, Webers can be quite compelling: mine won Best of Show 1st time out with these in a local event ( 70+ cars including Ferraris, Aston Martin, BMW CSs and Mercedes SLs besides 7 other TRs ).

Edited by Tom Fremont
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If by chance you mean those horrid Webers <_< the main risk to going over is that you'll never go back. That depends on getting them calibrated, the sole negative associated therewith. For a regular driver the reliability and longevity ( not to say performance ) are stellar and beyond compare.

 

For a show car the P.I. is without a doubt the first choice for originality's sake. One could always put the P.I. system into long-term storage, properly preserved, for such an eventuality. But even for a show car, Webers can be quite compelling: mine won Best of Show 1st time out with these in a local event ( 70+ cars including Ferraris, Aston Martin, BMW CSs and Mercedes SLs besides 7 other TRs ).

 

Hi Tom,

 

You are indeed correct, those horrid webers.

 

I agree with everything you say and its getting darker by the minute :unsure:

 

 

Cheers

 

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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