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Which Grease for a Wiper Gearbox


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Hi Miles

 

I've just used LM Grease, basic bog standard what you'd put in wheel bearings.

 

The old stuff is usually set like wax if its been in there 40+ years.

 

Although you could probably use graphite based grease if you preferred.

 

Cheers

 

Darren

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Hi Miles

 

I've just used LM Grease, basic bog standard what you'd put in wheel bearings.

 

The old stuff is usually set like wax if its been in there 40+ years.

 

Although you could probably use graphite based grease if you preferred.

 

Cheers

 

Darren

Be careful with LM grease, it can find its way into the motor and cause all sorts of electrical excitement (bitter experience). I thought the grease you were supposed to use was that thick white stuff. I thought there was something listed in the Moss catalogue but it might have been somewhere else.

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I thought the grease you were supposed to use was that thick white stuff.

Do you mean PH grease?

 

Used to be available from Castrol:

 

 

White tacky water resistant for long life application such as brake mechanisms and linkages and wheel hub splines for cars with wire wheels where good adhesion is necessary.

 

 

I seem to recall seeing something like it in a couple of old wiper motors which I stripped.

Edited by BrianC
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Do you mean PH grease?

 

Used to be available from Castrol:

 

 

White tacky water resistant for long life application such as brake mechanisms and linkages and wheel hub splines for cars with wire wheels where good adhesion is necessary.

 

 

I seem to recall seeing something like it in a couple of old wiper motors which I stripped.

Thats the one Brian.

Stuart.

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The thick white grease was generally called water pump grease, which was little used by mechanics, apart from being very useful for sticking nuts and bolts in sockets when access was awkward!

 

There was also, I believe a lithium based white grease which I have seen used on splines, really stringy stuff, but very old school and superseded I believe by copperslip.

 

The grease should only be applied to the gear mechanism and not the armature area of the motor as this has a phosphor bronze or graphite type bearing, so shouldn't be any problems with the grease coming into contact with the motor brushes.

 

I've done both Lucas motors now on the 2000 and TR4 and both work a treat, there's no great stress in these areas although I suppose the stringy lithium grease wouldn't be as liable to creep if you packed too much in.

 

Interesting this lubricant debate, its very much like the heated debate on what you should put in su and stromberg dashpots, as a BL mechanic of the day I can tell you what we used on everything and why, if anyones interested, and also the saga of having to soak clutch plates in washing up bowls overnight, then rubbing graphite flakes into them as a factory fix for harsh clutch operation!

 

I digress,

 

Cheers

 

Darren

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The thick white grease was generally called water pump grease, which was little used by mechanics, apart from being very useful for sticking nuts and bolts in sockets when access was awkward!

 

There was also, I believe a lithium based white grease which I have seen used on splines, really stringy stuff, but very old school and superseded I believe by copperslip.

 

The grease should only be applied to the gear mechanism and not the armature area of the motor as this has a phosphor bronze or graphite type bearing, so shouldn't be any problems with the grease coming into contact with the motor brushes.

 

I've done both Lucas motors now on the 2000 and TR4 and both work a treat, there's no great stress in these areas although I suppose the stringy lithium grease wouldn't be as liable to creep if you packed too much in.

 

Interesting this lubricant debate, its very much like the heated debate on what you should put in su and stromberg dashpots, as a BL mechanic of the day I can tell you what we used on everything and why, if anyones interested, and also the saga of having to soak clutch plates in washing up bowls overnight, then rubbing graphite flakes into them as a factory fix for harsh clutch operation!

 

I digress,

 

Cheers

 

Darren

Darren do tell more, its always interesting to hear about original fixes etc. Mind you some of the things we did to fix problems back then are probably best not repeated in open court ;)

Stuart.

Staurt

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Variable jet Dashpot oil;

 

I was lucky enough to serve an apprenticeship with an old timer at a major BL dealership in the early seventies tuning everything from TRs, 2000, 2.5, later dolomites, Rover 2000, 2,2, 3500, early Jag V12 with 2 strombergs per bank etc, and although I didn't appreciate it at the time, I appear to have retained some of the imparted wisdom, especially in understanding and tuning carbs.

 

We always used 20/50 multigrade in dashpots, simply because it worked. There was a reoccurring theme of owners using thin oil, 3 in 1 in many cases, which would cause hesitation (flat spot) on acceleration, which was easily cured with multigrade oil, or to overcome the flat spot owners would adjust the mixture over rich to compensate and we would have to start from scratch again.

 

The majority of owners believed that putting thinner oil in the damper would allow the piston and needle to rise quickly thus allowing more fuel in, which equalled faster acceleration, when in fact more air than fuel is the end result.

 

And I know someone's going to point out that it must be better to use a single grade oil, practically I've never found the need, and it wasn't an issue when variable jet carbs were common place, I also think a multigrade probably adapts better to ambient temperature in harmony with what an engine requires, I'm sure some experts going to tell me that I'm wrong, but that's just my practical experience of working with them.

 

Cheers

 

Darren

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Variable jet Dashpot oil;

 

I was lucky enough to serve an apprenticeship with an old timer at a major BL dealership in the early seventies tuning everything from TRs, 2000, 2.5, later dolomites, Rover 2000, 2,2, 3500, early Jag V12 with 2 strombergs per bank etc, and although I didn't appreciate it at the time, I appear to have retained some of the imparted wisdom, especially in understanding and tuning carbs.

 

We always used 20/50 multigrade in dashpots, simply because it worked. There was a reoccurring theme of owners using thin oil, 3 in 1 in many cases, which would cause hesitation (flat spot) on acceleration, which was easily cured with multigrade oil, or to overcome the flat spot owners would adjust the mixture over rich to compensate and we would have to start from scratch again.

 

The majority of owners believed that putting thinner oil in the damper would allow the piston and needle to rise quickly thus allowing more fuel in, which equalled faster acceleration, when in fact more air than fuel is the end result.

 

And I know someone's going to point out that it must be better to use a single grade oil, practically I've never found the need, and it wasn't an issue when variable jet carbs were common place, I also think a multigrade probably adapts better to ambient temperature in harmony with what an engine requires, I'm sure some experts going to tell me that I'm wrong, but that's just my practical experience of working with them.

 

Cheers

 

Darren

 

Thats good info Darren, I confess to being one of the numptys that used 3 in 1, when I get my TR3 back this weekend its the fist job to do

 

thanks and put some stuff in TRaction

 

regards

 

Peter

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