Willem Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Hi all, With your help i managed to service my TR6 for this summer. The whole list from the service manual, so fresh oils and coolant, filters and other parts etc posed no problem. Thanks for that. I also got trough the entire grease monkey list except for one item. My left drive shaft crossmember has a very short grease nipple concealed within the unit. While all the other items have a long protruding one, on which the grease gun can be easily fitted, this one is unreachable. I can't even fit a wrench to remove it and install a longer nipple the space is just too small. Any smart solutions to get the sticky stuff in?? Thanks Willem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 If you remove the drive shaft then the UJ can be flexed more to give easier access for greasing or nipple change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Hello Willem I just removed a driveshaft for the first time. You may have read about it. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....showtopic=14587 In case you have not done this before would just like to mention... - you will need to renew the six nylocs that hold the hub onto the trailing arm, the size is in the brown bible - and the four nylocs holding the drive flange to the differential - be careful not to tear the rubber bellows gaiter in the middle of the shaft - not sure whether you mean the outer or inner uj - to get at the outer uj you do not need to pull the drive shaft out competely, although you do have to unbolt it from the diff. Then you can just pull it out a few inches. I mention this because if you have the new thick inner rubber boot (around the inner uj) the boot will not go through the trailing arm, so in order to remove the shaft completely, you have to separate it at the splines. No problem, except that to put it back you have to feed the greased splines back through the trailing arm and try to mate it with the inner part of the shaft without dropping dirt into the grease. This is tricky, so if you can avoid pulling out the shaft completely that is what I would recommend. - when you put the hub back onto the trailing arm, tighten the six nuts very carefully and observe precisely the maximum torque of 14 ftlb. It is easy to pull the studs out of the trailing arm. I tightened first to 10 lb, then increased by 1 lb steps (I have a 20lb torque wrench) in order not to strip anything. One stud is OK at 10 lb, but I can feel that it is stripping so I went no further. Are you quite sure that you cannot buy a special head for your grease gun? Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willem Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 (edited) Hello Willem I just removed a driveshaft for the first time. You may have read about it. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....showtopic=14587 Are you quite sure that you cannot buy a special head for your grease gun? Ivor Thanks Ivor for the good advise. And no even with a flexible hose fitted on the grease gun there is no way i can fit it on. Next week my TR will have it's MOT at the garage. MOT in the Netherlands is done by licenced workshops, occasionally being checked by the officials. I know the gentlemen (they have some light streaks of grey in the hair ;-) ) quite well , maybe they have a trick or two who knows. Else i will remove the whole drive shaft carefully, taking note of your advise and fit a longer grease nipple as on the other couplings. Of course i will post the the eventual solution. Willem Edited June 17, 2008 by Willem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marks Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks Ivor for the good advise.And no even with a flexible hose fitted on the grease gun there is no way i can fit it on. Next week my TR will have it's MOT at the garage. MOT in the Netherlands is done by licenced workshops, occasionally being checked by the officials. I know the gentlemen (they have some light streaks of grey in the hair ;-) ) quite well , maybe they have a trick or two who knows. Else i will remove the whole drive shaft carefully, taking note of your advise and fit a longer grease nipple as on the other couplings. Of course i will post the the eventual solution. Willem Willem The nipples on the drive shaft in the hub are impossible to get to unless the shaft is removed from the hub. The other ones in the uj's can be reached if you either grind or turn down in a lathe the detachable head to the grease gun. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willem Posted June 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 Willem The nipples on the drive shaft in the hub are impossible to get to unless the shaft is removed from the hub. The other ones in the uj's can be reached if you either grind or turn down in a lathe the detachable head to the grease gun. Mark Hi Mark, If i turn down my grease gun head to fit the LH universal joint, nothing will be left of the tool. So i have to remove the shaft and fit a longer grease nipple as on the RH side. Even my MOT mechanics did not know a way to get grease in. Sadly they also found a more than 40% brake difference between the front wheels. Luckily i have still time to fix that. I hope it's nothing serious Willem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 It is easy to pull the studs out of the trailing arm. I tightened first to 10 lb, then increased by 1 lb steps (I have a 20lb torque wrench) in order not to strip anything. One stud is OK at 10 lb, but I can feel that it is stripping so I went no further. Hi Ivor I've never done this job, but if you can 'feel that it is stripping' wouldn't you feel safer with a helicoil in there? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 I've never done this job, but if you can 'feel that it is stripping' wouldn't you feel safer with a helicoil in there? Too right. Don't want my expensive wheels falling off. Took the spare trailing arm to Roland Allsop today to have all the studs helicoiled. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kawedo Posted November 6, 2008 Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 (edited) Willem The nipples on the drive shaft in the hub are impossible to get to unless the shaft is removed from the hub. The other ones in the uj's can be reached if you either grind or turn down in a lathe the detachable head to the grease gun. Mark Hello look at this page Greasegunpipe scroll down - second last picture on the right The bend pipe is specially made for outer UJ . CharlyW from Germany Edited November 6, 2008 by kawedo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 that grease gun pipe looks pretty nice, but an alternative might be a needle fitting for your grease gun. you should be able to get some goo in there with that but it might be a bit of a fiddle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 That cranked attachment looks pretty good for the outer uj - so it's the 'gebogene' version... Here's the Home Page, if you want to buy one you need the Verkauf tab http://www.csb-zeller.de/willkommen.htm Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 If you are pulling a driveshaft you may also find you need to remove the 7/16" nut that holds the handbrake cable onto the trailing arm, otherwise the driveshaft will catch on it when you try to withdraw it. andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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