Jump to content

My tale of woe and possibly intrigue


Recommended Posts

Well, its not that easy. I had my failed lifters tested, 56 Rockwell C. Once you test a lifter, you should not use it. There may be only 2 different cam blanks being cast, I can't be sure of that, however, I know of 2. They both have issues, however, one in my opinion is better than the other. The chilled iron is only hardened where it needs to be. The part of the lobe that lifts the lifter is supposed to be the hardened part, and maybe the gear. It appears, they may be able to ''miss" during casting, the spot they intend to harden, or harden it poorly. So, I don't see where your post changes anything. Oh, and mine has nothing to do with the motor oil. It is far more complex than you make it sound. Also, regrinds are not hard enough, but , you may get lucky. The problems with the blanks and lifters is they are not US, or UK cast.

Link to post
Share on other sites

TR camshafts are cast iron, and as far as I know cast iron can't be hardened, or only very poorly. I'm particularly interested because I've no less than six cams ruined because the gears on them failed after a short time (teeth get thin and brake off). The lobes were always still like new. I've asked around to remediate, to no avail. In the end i've got made a billet steel copy of it. Maybe specialists in the forum (Richard Cr.) can shed some light?

Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm particularly interested because I've no less than six cams ruined because the gears on them failed after a short time (teeth get thin and brake off). (Richard Cr.) can shed some light?

 

The Rover V8 also has always had problems with the dizzy/oil pump skew gear, although only at high revs.

One 'solution' is a separate oil feed pipe that squirts oil onto the gear, rather than relying on drip from above.

 

Ivor

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are talking about a TR6 cam gear failure, I just sent one back. The gear was about .065 thinner, and slightly forward of where it should be. This was verified by several people over the phone, and by putting it next to another cam, from a different blank. You really need to look these cams over, and if possible, compare the new cam, to the old stanpart cam, checking lobe location, and gear location and thickness. As for hardening, cam lobes are hardened on the part that pushes the lifter up, that is what is chilled. I saw this when I had a cam hardness tested, and checked with suppliers, and this is how it is done. So, if your replacement cams have the right thickness gear, located where it should be, I would look elsewhere. I know whose blank has the thinner gear, but, I don't really want to say. Other people in the UK know about this, I talked to them. You can see the gear is thinner just by looking at it. You can't just move lobes and the gear, and expect it to work properly, for a reasonable amount of time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I know whose blank has the thinner gear, but, I don't really want to say. Other people in the UK know about this, I talked to them. You can see the gear is thinner just by looking at it. You can't just move lobes and the gear, and expect it to work properly, for a reasonable amount of time.

 

Poor,

You would doing the World of TR a service if you did say who sells these.

If you have photographs of your comparison, you need not fear retribution, as you will have solid evidnevce of your allegation.

 

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, let me say this, I don't have pictures. However, I would not put a Newman cam in my car. Does that tell you what you want to know? This cam is sold by several suppliers. Rimmer Bros. told me on the phone, this is what they sell for 150 HP CP. I got mine from someone over here, and sent it back. Whatever cam you use, compare it with the Stanpart, for lobe location and gear size and location. Also, regrinds are junk.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Well, let me say this, I don't have pictures. However, I would not put a Newman cam in my car. Does that tell you what you want to know? This cam is sold by several suppliers. Rimmer Bros. told me on the phone, this is what they sell for 150 HP CP. I got mine from someone over here, and sent it back. Whatever cam you use, compare it with the Stanpart, for lobe location and gear size and location. Also, regrinds are junk.

 

You mentioned in an earlier note that there may only be two forms of the TR6 cam's being cast, I undertand that you may only have partial imformation but could you share what family tree you have, and am I correct that you are currently using a GP2 cam in your car ?

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting back to my engine issues.. I got a chance to drive it up and down the driveway today just to say that I had driven it before I start stripping the front of the engine (again) to fix the leak. I can see I am going to have to learn to drive all over again as it feels and behaves quite different from the old engine, especially its willingness to get going and the instant throttle response.

 

The oil leak seems to be between the front plate and the block and is almost certainly due to insufficient goop on the gasket. I was wondering how long it is safe to run the engine from cold without having the cooling system hooked up ?. I just need it to get hot and run for a couple of minutes to first verify that the leak is where I think it is (too hard to see with the front end all installed) and verify that the leak is fixed before I reassemble the cross tube, rad etc. I wonder if that is going to be a safe thing to do ?.

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
Getting back to my engine issues.. I got a chance to drive it up and down the driveway today just to say that I had driven it before I start stripping the front of the engine (again) to fix the leak. I can see I am going to have to learn to drive all over again as it feels and behaves quite different from the old engine, especially its willingness to get going and the instant throttle response.

 

The oil leak seems to be between the front plate and the block and is almost certainly due to insufficient goop on the gasket. I was wondering how long it is safe to run the engine from cold without having the cooling system hooked up ?. I just need it to get hot and run for a couple of minutes to first verify that the leak is where I think it is (too hard to see with the front end all installed) and verify that the leak is fixed before I reassemble the cross tube, rad etc. I wonder if that is going to be a safe thing to do ?.

 

Stan

 

Stan

Can you post a pic of where you think this is, it is not a common place for an oil leak

Regards's

Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites
Stan

Can you post a pic of where you think this is, it is not a common place for an oil leak

Regards's

Neil

 

Here is one apparent leak. This is not a picture of the installed engine, just one that I'm using to illustrate the leak.

 

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/leak.jpg

 

The oil is exiting between the front plate and the block at the location arrowed, flowing down the block, puddling on the front crossmember and dripping on the floor. There is a lot of oil, this may not be the only leak.

 

Let me provide a bit more background.. I had a couple of helpers during re-assembly. Before the front plate was installed I was assured that we only needed to put gasket goop around a large opening in the front of the block in the top right hand corner. So thats the way the front plate went on. Later when I read the book it says to cover both sides of the gasket with sealant before installing the front plate.

 

There is no oil leaking when the engine is not running or when the engine is cold but once it warms up there is a steady stream of oil and agrowing puddle on the floor

 

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Stan

 

99% sure somebody has fitted the front cover before and over tightend it take it off and check for flatness,put goo as you call it around each bolt

Regard's

Neil

 

With the timing cover off it is hard to see how that much oil could get between the front plate and the block. Perhaps you are right Neil and the problem was oil getting past the timing cover gasket and coming through the bolt holes to the back of the front plate making it look as if that is where the leak was. When I took the timing cover off the first time back in December I noticed that there was a lot of sealant on it, perhaps this had been causing issues in the past.

 

I checked the timing cover gasket surface. It is not obviouly bent but a few of the holes were distorted (they were at the top of the cover however and lon the opposite side from the apparent leak) but I dressed them back into shape using a bolt in the vice as an anvil.

 

The question is do I go with that diagnosis and try again with a more liberal application of sealant on the timing cover or do I say I have come this far, pull off the timing gear and front plate and do that joint again.. It was just 1.5 hours to having the timing cover off so I guess if I try the simplest option and not disturb the timing gear I can always come back to this point again if that plan fails...

 

Should know in a few hours assuming I dont run out of steam tonight.

 

Thanks,

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Stan

 

99% sure somebody has fitted the front cover before and over tightend it take it off and check for flatness,put goo as you call it around each bolt

Regard's

Neil

 

After dressing anything that looked distorted on the cover and re-installing it with new gasket and goop the leak is still present. With the car outside in the daylight and the engine clean it is obviously leaking between the front plate and the block. Lucky for me that everything is clean and has new fasteners and I can get to the timing gear in just over an hour (bonnet has not yet been installed) without getting my hands dirty.. Once more, with feeling..

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
After dressing anything that looked distorted on the cover and re-installing it with new gasket and goop the leak is still present. With the car outside in the daylight and the engine clean it is obviously leaking between the front plate and the block. Lucky for me that everything is clean and has new fasteners and I can get to the timing gear in just over an hour (bonnet has not yet been installed) without getting my hands dirty.. Once more, with feeling..

 

Stan

;) I did say 99% Stan, keep at it you will get there in the end

 

Regard's

Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites
;) I did say 99% Stan, keep at it you will get there in the end

 

Regard's

Neil

 

The front end is mostly back together again, just waiting for some paint to dry..

 

Here is the engine side of the front plate. The area where I had the most obvious leak is circled but it was not the only area where the gasket was soaked in oil and would have also been leaking.

 

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...ntplateleak.jpg

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
The front end is mostly back together again, just waiting for some paint to dry..

 

Here is the engine side of the front plate. The area where I had the most obvious leak is circled but it was not the only area where the gasket was soaked in oil and would have also been leaking.

 

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...ntplateleak.jpg

 

Stan

 

Preliminary indications are that this particular leak is fixed. Woohoo !.

 

Now back to the Webers...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.