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Dave Satchwell

Rear wing stone fenders 1959 TR3a

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When got my car it was 99.9 % complete except for a few things that needed doing. One being a missing passenger grab handle ( still to obtain ) and the other the above protectors. I understand they can be difficult/fiddly to fit any advice on this aspect would be welcome. When at Prescott I looked to see how they were fitted some almost looked stuck on others fastened by bending around the wheel arches, do you have to remove the rear fender to fit them ?

Also has anyone purchased them recently with a good fit obtained, I believe supply quality varies greatly. Thanks for you help in advance Dave

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The fit of the repros is awful. You don't have to remove the rear wings, just the bottom 3 bolts, slide the stone guards into place (once you have made them fit properly) and refit the 3 bolts.

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Hi,

 

Mine are repros and pretty bad quality, only about 5 years old but look near to 50. Tried refitting them a few weekends ago, its easy enough if you masking tape them into position (otherwise you don't have enough hands) and then put the three bolts back into position. You will probably need to loosen off some of the other bolts. Mine also have some "flaps" that you bend round to make a better fit. Be careful when you put them on because in places the guard had dug into the wing, and damaged the paint.

 

Although it's fiddly, it's well worth doing judging from the stone marks on mine.

 

Cheers, Ed

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I have just bought a set of stone guards from the same supplier that I bought some from many years ago. The originals fitted with no problems, the new set are miles out. Any guides on how to make them fit or where to purchase a set that may fit?

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The current run of repros arent very clever and also differ from side to side! If at all possible its best to trial fit the new ones to a wing with it off and unpainted ;) However life,s not like that and due to the shape of them the only practical way on a painted car is to undo if possible the lower 4 captive bolts and put some masking tape up the edge of the quarter panel, then give the back of the guard a good coat of waxoyl and slightly bend out the outer fold lip then holding it upright push it onto the front of the wing but about an inch or two below where it will sit in the end then just as the inner flange engages between the wing and the quarter panel and the outer lip goes over the edge of the wing slide it up into position being careul not to scrape the paint on the outer lip of the wing and with the edge of a plastic filler spreader behind the top lip to protect the paint. Slide the spreader out when the guard contacts it and push it up against the wing. Remove the masking tape and then do up the four bolts to grip it, I then use a rubber hammer to finish the lip in around the wing edge and tap the tags in.

Always leave the plastic film on until you have finished and only use wood or rubber tools to bend them otherwise is very difficult to get any marks out.

Stuart`

Edited by stuart

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When I fitted mine in 1990, they were out but not as bad as the ones today. Then I removed the large ones and sent them to the chrome plating shop and specified satin or brushed chrome. They triple plate them with shiny chrome, then they buff the surface to a dull or satin finish. They look just like bare aluminium. No concours judge ever thought they were anything but aluminium. But the chrome is harder than the bare or anodized aluminium so the satin chrome surface resists stone chips much better. And when I want to polish them, it's like polishing chrome, whereas when you polish the bare aluminium ones, they turn black as you are trying to polish them.

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The current run of repros arent very clever and also differ from side to side! If at all possible its best to trial fit the new ones to a wing with it off and unpainted ;) However life,s not like that and due to the shape of them the only practical way on a painted car is to undo if possible the lower 4 captive bolts and put some masking tape up the edge of the quarter panel, then give the back of the guard a good coat of waxoyl and slightly bend out the outer fold lip then holding it upright push it onto the front of the wing but about an inch or two below where it will sit in the end then just as the inner flange engages between the wing and the quarter panel and the outer lip goes over the edge of the wing slide it up into position being careul not to scrape the paint on the outer lip of the wing and with the edge of a plastic filler spreader behind the top lip to protect the paint. Slide the spreader out when the guard contacts it and push it up against the wing. Remove the masking tape and then do up the four bolts to grip it, I then use a rubber hammer to finish the lip in around the wing edge and tap the tags in.

Always leave the plastic film on until you have finished and only use wood or rubber tools to bend them otherwise is very difficult to get any marks out.

Stuart`

Thanks for the comprehensive advice I will proceed with care, and hopefully all will be OK, Dave

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Dave - Follow the advice from Stuart about the wood and rubber malletts for reworking them. I have found that the outer shape is not too bad and when I do my new ones someday, I think I'll do the rework along the 90 degree flange where it's attached between the wing and the tub. This way, you can re-locate the slots wider if you have to and any excess can be cut off with tin snips where it won't be seen because it is hidden behind the flange for the wing. Also when you re-fit the stainless steel beading trim down the lower front of the gap, the trim will cover any small blemishes that may still be there. Since I plan to have the new stoneguards chromed with the buffed satin finish, the plater will buff the exterior all smooth after plating the first layer of copper, before the nickel and finally the chrome.

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Follow the advice from Stuart about the wood and rubber malletts for reworking them. I have found that the outer shape is not too bad and when I do my new ones someday, I think I'll do the rework along the 90 degree flange where it's attached between the wing and the tub. This way, you can re-locate the slots wider if you have to and any excess can be cut off with tin snips where it won't be seen because it is hidden behind the flange for the wing. Also when you re-fit the stainless steel beading trim down the lower front of the gap, the trim will cover any small blemishes that may still be there. Since I plan to have the new stoneguards chromed with the buffed satin finish, the plater will buff the exterior all smooth after plating the first layer of copper, before the nickel and finally the chrome.

 

If it's any consolation, I was faced with this problem many years ago,

using new factory panels and new factory stoneguards (both now with

the New Spares Fund).

 

They were a next-to-impossible fit as well. Trial fitting on an unpainted

wing showed what a problem this was even then. I don't know if the

repro panels are better or worse, I just know that getting a close fit

without damaging the paintwork has always been a problem.

 

AlanR

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What Don did on the with the satin finish chrome was pretty cool it also makes the guard stand up to the elements, I got lucky and found an original set in Kentucky. There were still wrapped in crate paper with Stan Part 1958 stamped on it. As most of you know Aluminum is soft and over the time they have gotten dinged and banged up, don't get me wrong they still look great compared to repos.

Edited by russa

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Russ - If you ask a chrome plater, he can take those dings out when after the copper plate stage before he does the nickel and finally satin chrome finish.

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