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Hi all, first time I have written on the forum so these questions have probably been asked before but here goes.I am restoring a 3A post 6K number, and the engine is in the begining stages of being fettled.We are uprating the pistons and liners to 87mm and the main question is has anyone recently bought new ones?If so where from?Were you happy with the service?and most importantly were you happy with the quality of the products?

Also ring sets to go with the pistons.I am a bit of a stickler for quality and would like the best that are out there if posible.

Hope you can help

 

 

Nigel

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Hi Nigel,

 

If you perform a search on 'Pistons' and look for the postings in the TR2/3/3A Forum, you'll find that I've asked the same question last summer. Interesting answers and comments on that question! A long story that ended with purchasing and installing County products. I have not tested the engine in 'real life' as my car is still undergoing restoration.

 

Regards,

 

Menno

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I also chose County and have not yet used the engine. It depends how much you want to spend and how tuned you are having the engine. One supplier suggested forged pistons and thicker-walled liners, but the fortune he wanted was beyond my pocket . I had not heard anything bad about County oistons- I believe one of our German contributors was using them in his race engine.

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Hi Nigel,

 

I did a bit of research on pistons last year, in the context of both slant 4 and wet liner 4 engines, and I'm in the fortunate position of knowing several of the TR specialists as personal mates - which may not get a discount, but does usually get unexpurgated opinions . . . :rolleyes:

 

My bottom line conclusion was that the County pistons are quite adequate for fast road use - a higher spec of piston is probably wasted unless you are building a steel competition engine.

 

Having said that, the slant 4 now has County pistons, the wet liner will have 87mm Powermax pistons and liners - but I was exceptionally lucky to acquire a set via this Forum, and this engine is for competition.

 

TR Enterprises could give you quite a bit of 'chapter and verse' on their (considerable) experiences with the various piston options, Simon Watson is the man to speak to.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Nigel

Not sure if you want to look at our end of the world, but I have just had my engine rebuilt.

 

I bought a complete kit from a company called bare co in Australia. They have distributors here in NZ,

A gentleman named Allen Bare owns the co. and it is a major tractor dealership and equipment supplier to the agricultural sector, that includes massey fergussons.

Alan it seems also is a TR Register life member in the Aussi chapter and races TRs. through his company he has made and sells complete rebuild kits. I bought an 87mm kit which included all rings, liners, bearings,including mains, gaskets etc from them it cost me effectively $750 nz which at current exchange rate probably less than 300 pounds even with freight. According to my engine builder the kit was excellent and he was hugely surprised at the quality and what you got for the price. I've included a link to the aussi Tr register site about Alan bare

 

http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/allan_bare_tr3.htm

 

Alternatively you can go to his company site at www.bareco.co.au

 

I havn't had my engine running yet as I am still in the restoration stage, so I can't talk about whether they are right for your situation but i'm sure if you contact alan or his people you will get the real oil.

You can also get a crank from them at what seemed a really good price, but the sample i saw wasn't cross drilled for oil flow so would be likely unsuitable for a race type situation.

Not sure if this helps but good luck

Jim

Edited by kiwi-jim
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Hi Nigel,

I've had 'County' pistons in my 'bog standard' 4A for 10 years now without a spot of bother. If and when you get any brand from any vendor check inside the boxesw

and ensure you have ALL of the bits - gudgeon pin, 2 off circlips, rings, piston. When I did mine in 9697 I had every combination of something missing.

Also it may be overkill but when you go to the shop take some weighing scales and buy 4 or 6 all aprx the same weigh - they do vary.

 

Roger

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Yes, if you have the possibility: use a weighing scale! It's the poor man's balancing machine! Having said that, if you are keen on quality, I think that balancing the crank is as important as buying new pistons and liners! The imbalance of the crankshaft in my TR's engine was immense! The men in the workshop had it balanced without an with the flywheel attached. Without: no problem, with the flyhweel attached... Let me quote Bert, the workshop owner: "It tried to jump off the machine and walk out the door."

Somewhere in the past some ignorant ... (Don has a nice word for those people) just fitted a flywheel to the crank and didn't bother to check...

 

Now, the internals of my TR's engine are bog standard, but very, very well balanced. The flywheel is lightened (a few pounds) and there's a small belt pulley at the front. On top, the cylinder head is flowed: all sharp edges are removed and smoothened. I want a smooth running engine, build to last, not to race. Suited for everday's traffic.

 

Menno

Edited by Menno van Rij
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Yes, if you have the possibility: use a weighing scale! It's the poor man's balancing machine! Having said that, if you are keen on quality, I think that balancing the crank is as important as buying new pistons and liners! The imbalance of the crankshaft in my TR's engine was immense! The men in the workshop had it balanced without an with the flywheel attached. Without: no problem, with the flyhweel attached... Let me quote Bert, the workshop owner: "It tried to jump off the machine and walk out the door."

Somewhere in the past some ignorant ... (Don has a nice word for those people) just fitted a flywheel to the crank and didn't bother to check...

 

Now, the internals of my TR's engine are bog standard, but very, very well balanced. The flywheel is lightened (a few pounds) and there's a small belt pulley at the front. On top, the cylinder head is flowed: all sharp edges are removed and smoothened. I want a smooth running engine, build to last, not to race. Suited for everday's traffic.

 

Menno

 

Gents,county seem to be the name to look for.Do any of you have an address for them?Where are they best sourced from?

Thanks

Nigel

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I think the TR Shop (London) sells them. They have a website with a Summer Sale Brochure in PDF. The cilinders are on these pages too.

 

(I've just bought a set of w/wheels of them. They did a good job: not too expensive and quick delivery. Ordered them last Saturday, arrived this morning -Friday- overhere in Holland).

 

Menno

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I've heard from more than one source that County pistons are OK for road/fast road use however the same suppliers wouldn't say the same about the bearings other than they are OK for road use but wouldn't recomend them for tuned cars.

 

Having recently helped Martin W (Leicester Group Leader) change the shells in his 2.5 estate which had been victim of someone forgetting to fit the inner o ring of his spin on conversion after an engine rebuild thus bipassing the filter and thus causing terminal damage to the bottom end it was noteworthy that the County Big Ends were in a worse state then the other make of Main bearings. Obviously big ends & mains are not directly comparable but the inference is there.

Edited by andymoltu
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Hi Andy,

 

interesting observation.

 

In contrast, the advice I received in respect of the 8v Slant 4 was that the County pistons were fine, but to use original bearing quality if at all possible . . . not a problem, in that Tom had already laid in a stock of Vandervell. Touch wood, so far so good.

 

I'm not convinced that it's altogether fair to draw implications about pistons from bearings, let alone conclusions, as in different source manufacturing and all that.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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