Jase69 Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 First of all, hi to all! Just managed to get my TR7 V8 going again after 2 years of inactivity but was dismayed to find the clutch pedal had seized again (this happened once before about 3 years ago but was fixed by a mechanic). But after studying the TR FAQ it would appear this happens quite often when the 7s are left alone for a bit. So, following the instructions on the page, I warmed her up, turned off the ignition, selected 1st, re-started the car and then after about a car's length I jumped on the brake and clutch pedal together.... Lol. ....Well it kinda worked: I definitely felt the clutch pedal depress about 3 or 4" before it returned to the raised posn but it's still not freed up and now I can select any gear with the engine running with no clutch needed - I guess the hydraulics have moved and then stuck again. So, without surgery, does anyone know of a way I can free up this thing without getting the spanners out? Many thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Maybe the clutch disque(?) is stuck onto the splines of the input shaft? Then you could try and get some WD40 or something like that onto the spines? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 If you are brave: Select 2nd gear, start it up and drive round the block a few times, hitting the clutch pedal from time to time until it frees. I tried all the usual remedies a few years ago when Lynda's TR4A had been off the road for the winter and eventually had to resort to this desperate measure. It actually took about 5 miles up and down the bypass, before everything warmed up and the plate came off with a bang. Note: Early Sunday morning when the roads are quiet is probably the best time to do this, although even then you can guarantee there will be a few neighbours watching and having a good laugh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Hi guys. thanks for the tips. Err, perhaps I've not quite described this problem accurately enough.... The situation I've got now is that the clutch pedal is in the normal (not depressed) position but it is AS THOUGH it is pushed to the floor. This of course allows me to select any gear I like - even with the engine running without using the clutch at all but precludes me going for a gentle spin round the block because of the reasons I've mentioned above. I was really hoping that there'd be a quick(ish) fix for this: does anyone know if continuous jumping on the brake and or clutch pedal could yet get me out of this jam? Cheers Jase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Hi guys. thanks for the tips. Err, perhaps I've not quite described this problem accurately enough.... The situation I've got now is that the clutch pedal is in the normal (not depressed) position but it is AS THOUGH it is pushed to the floor. This of course allows me to select any gear I like - even with the engine running without using the clutch at all but precludes me going for a gentle spin round the block because of the reasons I've mentioned above. I was really hoping that there'd be a quick(ish) fix for this: does anyone know if continuous jumping on the brake and or clutch pedal could yet get me out of this jam? Cheers Jase. It sounds as if the Master or slave cylinders are stuck down now. If there is virtually no pressure against the master when you press the pedal then its probably slave cylinder. They take all the weather and will sieze in the out position. It could also be the flexi has collapsed internally and is preventing fluid coming back. Look underneath and see if the slave rod is all the way out and thus disengaging the clutch and if it is try undoing the bleed nipple. If the clutch immediately engages with the rod going back into the slave then its the flexi. If not its the cylinder siezed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Thanks for the advice guys. Will tackle this one as soon as I get a chance. Jase. P.S. How do I get a picture of my 'wedge' to come up on the left hand side whenever I post, like you chaps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Hi Jase. You will need to raise the car up and get a good long lever onto the slave cylinder pushrod/thrust bearing lever and try to lever it back into the slave cyl to unstick it and the master! If you can do this,then press down on the clutch pedal again to see if it still sticks,if it does repeat this until it loosens up! it should do eventually. BUT!! keep an eye on the fluid level,as if you have topped it up when it was stuck down,it will spill out,so wrap the clutch master in plenty of rag paper towels etc to stop spills onto paintwork! Or you could suck out a little fluid to 1" below the top edge!! I have used this method on a few laid up cars with stiff clutches,only once have I had to take the master and slave out for a total stripdown. Once you have it mobile,it will loosen up with use,keep an eye open for leaks,but it would be a good idea to replace the seals as soon as you can anyway. Good luck Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Well..... Ended up having to take off the slave cylinder and was happy to see that the clutch pedal travelled very freely with it removed: pushrod also moving fine. However, after taking off the rubber cap on the end of the slave it soon became evident what the problem was. Now, I'm no mechanic but I'm pretty sure that the piston within the slave SHOULD move - mine seems rusted solid in one position...... Even with it on a work-bench and hooked up to my friend's sizable compressor, it still wouldn't budge. So, either I've comletely got the wrong end of the stick of how this set-up works, or, I need to give Robsport a call. Thanks once again for everybody's help - wouldn't have had the courage to tackle it 'cold' and on my own. Jase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Hi Jase The slave piston maybe held in place with a circlip. Thats why it wont come out,or it is well siezed in there!! You need to mount it in a vice with the piston pointing upwards,then with a suitable drift/bar placed on the piston,hit down with a heavy hammer! & that should gradually unstick it,use plenty of WD40,there is a spring behind the piston so when its free enough it should gradually bounce back to the circlip if there is one! You can clean out the bore with fine emery,and overhaul with new seals,refit,bleed and hopefully its sorted! Alternatively just buy a new slave and fit it! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob S Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Dave gives good advice on how to get the piston out. I had the EXACT same problem as you about a year ago. I ended up buying a new slave off ebay to get it going again. One day when I was feeling aggressive, I beat the **** out of the old slave to get the piston back out. The rubber seal around the piston had disintegrated and was holding the piston in place. I bought a rebuild kit for a few bucks, did a light sand on the inside of the slave, and eventually put it back on the car because the slave off ebay was ****. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Lol. Thanks Rob. Was just gonna throw the old slave awayafter I aquire a replacement: never crossed my mind that it could be good for venting pent-up anger.... Though in all honesty you would need ALOT of aggression to shift this one. After the compressor didn't do the job, I did indeed try to drift out the piston with my lump hammer - but no joy, it's absolutely solid in there. So, looks like a call to either James Paddock or Robsport. As for the old one (slave), I think I'll wait 'til I'm back at work - the've got a beefier vice than me. Once I've got it there I'm gonna have a go at drifting with a sledge hammer...... Thanks for all your help, Dave and Rob - I'll let you know how it pans out. Jase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Lol. Thanks Rob. Was just gonna throw the old slave awayafter I aquire a replacement: never crossed my mind that it could be good for venting pent-up anger.... Though in all honesty you would need ALOT of aggression to shift this one. After the compressor didn't do the job, I did indeed try to drift out the piston with my lump hammer - but no joy, it's absolutely solid in there. So, looks like a call to either James Paddock or Robsport. As for the old one (slave), I think I'll wait 'til I'm back at work - the've got a beefier vice than me. Once I've got it there I'm gonna have a go at drifting with a sledge hammer...... Thanks for all your help, Dave and Rob - I'll let you know how it pans out. Jase. Dont forget that there will probably still be fluid left in the cylinder so when you give it a beating point the inlet into a bit of rag otherwise major embarrassment could be on the cards when the fluid sprays all over something valuable! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob from Brum Posted May 10, 2008 Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 (edited) Hi Jase For the cost of a slave cylinder from S&S, THROW THE OLD ONE AWAY. If it is a solid as you say it is, and you do free it, It'll never work the same if it works at all due to the pitting inside the bore. Just use it as an exercise in stress relief when the electrics start to play up. Regards Rob Edited May 10, 2008 by Rob from Brum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 Hi gang. Yeah, the old has been shelved until as such time that I need to knock the hell outa' something. Meanwhile, the newone has arrived from James Paddock and I managed to fit and bleed it today. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! I'd cean forgotten how well she goes (hey, its been 2 years!) and ended up leaving 2 black stripes in my driveway! Now then, onto the next job: pop-up head lights not playing ball...... **SIGH** ...when does it ever end? Thanks for everyones' help and advice. Jase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob from Brum Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 Hi Jase The subject of headlights keeps POPPING UP on this forum, so do a bit of searching and most of the answers are there. The general problem area is poor earth connections. Check them out and let us know the outcome. Regards Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase69 Posted May 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Hi Rob. Yeah, will do. Although I've owned this car for 11 years, I've never (ahem, leagally) had it on the road - just a bit of fun for going round a super-market car park on a late Sunday afternoon. However, in all that time, the pop-up head lights have ALWAYS worked - so it can't be too serious. Rain has stopped play for the time being. Will let you know the out-come. Jase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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