88V8 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Doors back from the painter, and with his help, rehung. Only ('only') took us 5 hours to hang and fit the glass.... Now the driver's door is all assembled, and I've just fitted the top seals. Previously the furry seal and the wipe seal had both been rather disorderly, the PO did say he found the clips 'difficult', so I hadn't thought to check the window gap in the top of the door. Belatedly checking the Williams book, I see the gap should be 3/4". Actually, the gap is 3/4" at the back but opens to 7/8" at the front, so the wipe seal ceases to wipe about half way along, and is clear of the glass by the time it reaches where the quarterlight would start if this was an MGB. Even though the door is well painted and waxed internally, the guaranteed ingress of water is alarming. If I peeled back the internal top trimpad - this is a late car where the top trim is purely ornamental - which I presume I could do with some cellulose thinners and a pallette knife, then with a wood block and a big 'ammer I could belabour the inner face of the door top so as to close up the gap. I realise this is not the ideal sequence of events, but has anyone done this with an assembled, fitted, door? With what result? Thanks Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Hi Ivor. WOHAH!!! Having recently done mine,it is fresh,ish in my mind! You will find,"I am pretty sure" that the front window guide channel that is bolted inside the doorframe is slightly adjustable so you can loosen it off,persuade it gently towards the outer skin of the door and retighten,this should take up the slack! My door gaps are about the same as yours and front and rear,and it will wipe fairly well. Make sure your drain holes in the bottom of the door are not bunged up with waxoil and crud! Removing the top door trim is extreemly delicate as it will snap quite easily,you will have to remove the inner window rubbing seal.I would do it very slowly if you decide to use a 'ammer and wood approach! I had some extreemly good grab handle ones on a spare set of doors,so I practised on the ones that were on the car as they were damaged anyway,and I didnt want to break the replacements so I went VERY VERY VERY!!!! slowly!!!! an inch at a time so as not to flex them too much. Good luck Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 You will find,"I am pretty sure" that the front window guide channel that is bolted inside the doorframe is slightly adjustable so you can loosen it off,persuade it gently towards the outer skin of the door and retighten,this should take up the slack! Thankyou, you're right, but then the glass wouldn't make good contact with the seal on the screen pillar... Ta for the tip about the trim though, I'll go carefully. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Thankyou, you're right, but then the glass wouldn't make good contact with the seal on the screen pillar... Ta for the tip about the trim though, I'll go carefully. Ivor Ivor the door tops are favorite for cracking at either end and quite often they just get welded up without any thought for the actual width of the gap. To do it properly means cutting and rewelding the top (Sorry mate) Tig welding will minimise the heat damage. I suspect that giving it a battering on the inside may close the gap up a bit but possibly not in the way you are hoping and due to the strength at the ends where the frame meets the outer that part wont close up anyway. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.