Guest mrodbert Posted November 15, 2002 Report Share Posted November 15, 2002 Webbie has asked us to use this forum for Historic Road Rallying as well as all the other competition stuff so here goes. I'm entered for Le Jog this year and looking for any tips and hints from any TR member who's been through the mill already. We did the CRA Winter Challenge to Barcelona last year and some HRCR events since, so we're not complete novices. As a result, we have renewed, greased and/or waterproofed everything that moves (and quite a lot that doesnt) eg new dynamo and heat shield; HT electrics; water pump; fuel pump; sealant on all electrical joints; repacked wheel bearings; etc., etc. However, if anyone can think of any non-obvious things we should do with the benefit of hindisght, I'd be extremely grateful. I'm most worried about low ground clearance through the fords. :0 Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john minchin Posted November 20, 2002 Report Share Posted November 20, 2002 See the historic rally TR4 thread for my response. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted November 20, 2002 Report Share Posted November 20, 2002 Hi Ive just posted a reply to the rally TR thing so have a look. Most of the things that I have don are for reliability as well as performance and its hard to know where to start, but here are a few; The fusebox in a 4 / 4A is awful. I use a 7FJ TR6 type in my TR4a as it locates and secures the fuses better. Header tank- use one. The dolomite sprint type looks the part and can be obtained, although it is small. I use a plastic one from AUDI (!) Bootlid tie downs - I have had the bootlid open on my TR4 as I landed after a tiny jump. Exhaust guard - alloy plate required just after the cruciform in the box section as the rear box starts or a skid plate welded onto the back box. Do you need to use a dynamo, why not an alternator (only a few penalty points) Very easy conversion. Check the wiper wheels boxes as they loosen up and are awful to fix. Flush out the heater matrix with a high pressure hose as this does two things, less pressure in the system and more water flowing and acts as a second radiator. Check the wear on the reverse gear selector in the box. This fails and locks the box in drive (so you cant move the car) and you need to take the top of the box to free it up. You can mainly avoid this by waiting until the wheels stop turning before selecting reverse but who does that anyway .... Good luck Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.