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wjr85

chassis painting

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Need some advice from those that have been there before me. Will shortly be preparing my chassis for painting and do not want to have to do it again. After much research this is my proposal.

(1) Sandblast chassis

(2) Apply light coat of red oxide primer to prevent surface rust

(3) Hand paint with POR-15 rust prevention paint

(4) Hand paint with POR-15 chassis paint

(5) Waxoyl

 

Has anyone any better suggestions ?

Has anyone else used POR-15 products ?

Some people say POR-15 can only be applied over rust but in my case all rust will be blasted/stripped off

 

Any advise, help, experiences, or comment would be very welcome

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Need some advice from those that have been there before me. Will shortly be preparing my chassis for painting and do not want to have to do it again. After much research this is my proposal.

(1) Sandblast chassis

(2) Apply light coat of red oxide primer to prevent surface rust

(3) Hand paint with POR-15 rust prevention paint

(4) Hand paint with POR-15 chassis paint

(5) Waxoyl

 

Has anyone any better suggestions ?

Has anyone else used POR-15 products ?

Some people say POR-15 can only be applied over rust but in my case all rust will be blasted/stripped off

 

Any advise, help, experiences, or comment would be very welcome

 

I have had 2 TR chassis powder coated after sandblasting, but the first powder coating job was more of a dustcoat and a poor job. the second one far far better.

so it pays to know the powdercoater.

I intend to squirt some 90 weight oil in the chassis after plugging it, and I think this may be a better method than waxoyle, after all it was the oil leaks that preserved the front of the chassis in the first place. After a few miles the oil will have covered all the inner rails I'm sure

But I havent done it yet. Not reccomended if you have a new driveway though.

 

regards

 

Peter

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I had my new chassis zinc sprayed and then only painted with regular body finish. This was in 1984 and it is still perfect to this day. the only rust is where I used mild steel washers and bolts. I have been on a mission over the more recent years and replaced all non essential bolts and washers with stainless steel and this is the answer. They come undone and are fine for attaching the wings, body and all small parts. In the suspension I used regular zinc plated nuts and bolts and stainless washers.

 

I think that if you zinc sprayed and used a fancy paint the chassis will last forever. The RB106/2 regulator is a different matter. I like spraying better than brushing for a more even finish and better cover. Waxoyl is a winner inside and you have the potential to inject and turn the chassis upside down and leave the fluid to creep round. This opportunity will never be available again.

 

Good luck.

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Need some advice from those that have been there before me. Will shortly be preparing my chassis for painting and do not want to have to do it again. After much research this is my proposal.

(1) Sandblast chassis

(2) Apply light coat of red oxide primer to prevent surface rust

(3) Hand paint with POR-15 rust prevention paint

(4) Hand paint with POR-15 chassis paint

(5) Waxoyl

 

Has anyone any better suggestions ?

Has anyone else used POR-15 products ?

Some people say POR-15 can only be applied over rust but in my case all rust will be blasted/stripped off

 

Any advise, help, experiences, or comment would be very welcome

 

 

I used POR 15 on my chassis when I rebuilt it. After a year or so it started peeling off, it has to have something to bind to, so I wouldn't recommend using it on newly sandblasted chassis. I would use a good quality chassis paint and loads of Waxoyl inside.

 

 

Cameron

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I think POR 15 is good stuff when used on materials that are left alone. I mean, not to be disturbed by rubbing bolts or any other friction: POR cannot stand that. And rust will settle in these places.

 

I think powder coating is great. But as Peter says, you have to know his work! I didn't choose powder coating, but I've choosen an industrial quality chassis paint. The stuff that's used by coach builders, trailer builders etc. There's a Scania factory nearby and I've asked people who work there for advise. They gave me a products' name (can not find it now) and I've bought the whole product range: primer and top coats. I've spend some days priming, sanding, priming, sanding and painting etc. until I was satisfied by the result. It looks like powder coating, but it's paint.

 

I've used Waxoil for the inside of the chassis. Don't know if it's the perfect product. Having said that: the chassis survived very well for nearly 50 years without any significant protection. Having taken care of the chassis the way I did last summer, I'm sure it will survive 50 years more. Besides, in 50 year's time, I will be too old to bother then! I think one has to be realistic about this.

 

 

Menno

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I've just used POR15 straight on the metal after sandblasting. As it is still a work in progress, I have no guide as to how long it will last.

I'm just taking the approach that anything done to protect it beats the way it was previously.

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I have my chassis blasted and immediately sprayed with bondarust red primer and then sprayed with an industrial chassis black. Waxoyled inside as well as waxoyl will creep to cover the entire inner surface. As previously stated these chassis have survived pretty well with just a splash of black paint and nothing inside so properly restored ones should outlive most of us!

Stuart.

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I have my chassis blasted and immediately sprayed with bondarust red primer and then sprayed with an industrial chassis black. Waxoyled inside as well as waxoyl will creep to cover the entire inner surface. As previously stated these chassis have survived pretty well with just a splash of black paint and nothing inside so properly restored ones should outlive most of us!

Stuart.

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I had my TR3a chassis blasted and then sprayed with two pack epoxy which left a nice keying surface. I topped that with POR15 and chassis black. I shall spray the inside with Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 which is their cavity wax. I have generally found that Bilt Hamber products do exactly what they say on the can. Their rust remover is superb.

 

Like pretty much everyone else has said - I would expect the chassis to outlast me.

 

Rgds Ian

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Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 is great stuff and much easier to apply than Waxoyl as it comes in a large pressurised can with a lance extension

 

andy

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I would not use the red primer. POR15 likes to bite right in to the metal. I find that after you sand blast and before you start man handling it to avoid oil, try to brush on 2 coats. 2nd one should be after the fist is firm but not dried. It is great stuff and flows real nice. Some put the chasie paint on top which is UV protective, but how much sun does our frames actualy get! I even do my wheel well because it dries as hard as porcilin. If it does get chiped i just touch it up. It really is great stuff. But don't let it dry on your skin :)

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