tr8 power steering

[niconicoo]

hi there, i have a very nice 8, except my wrists are starting to be in agony after driving, so power steering, i sure i have seen it done before,

 

so my only question is there enough room for the pulley system??

 

i have seen a conversion kit in rimmor bros,

 

 

 

chers nic,

 

1977, tr7 fhc v8

 

 

any comments or help will be much apprciated

[stevie-a]

S&S offer a modern electric power steering system for the TR7/8.

 

The beauty of this is that it does not matter what subframe you have, the unit fits inside the car

 

BUT Not cheap

Edited March 9, 2008 by stevie-a

[dai-click]

Have just re-installed power steering on my V8 Grinnall using a SD1 rack modified to fit. The pump and pully fit no problem as you use parts from a SD1 but the subframe has to have new rack mountings installed so is quite an involved job - fortunately mine had been done at the original Grinnall conversion. I now have power steering with only 2.7 turns lock to lock so is very responsive - some would say twitchy !!!

 

The other disadvantage to the electric system in my opinion, apart from the cost, is that you still have the original turns lock to lock ( about 4 ? ) which means a lot of twirling of the steering wheel albeit easier to turn.

 

Maybe you can specify a quick rack at the same time as the electric conversion, no doubt adding to the cost

 

Just my opinion of course

 

DB

[gordon kerr]

i have a very nice 8, except my wrists are starting to be in agony after driving

Unless you have something wrong with your wrists, in which case apologies, or are only driving at parking speeds you shouldn't really be in agony after driving a 7.

 

So first question is, when was the steering rack last greased? - if that isn't done regularly the steering just gets heavier and heavier. You also need to check out that the rack and all the joints are OK. A properly sorted 7 will always be a little on the heavy side but should be manageable once you are moving.

 

Then, if it's still too heavy, have you fitted, or thought about fitting, roller bearings to the top of the front struts in place of the original (non roller) bearings? All of the usual suspects, Robsoprt, S&S etc. can suply the parts/do the work for you. I had this done to my 2l 7 and it has made a hell of a difference although I should perhaps add that it was done as part of a complete suspension overhaul and so that may have contributed to the change. The fitting of bearings is going to be a fraction of the cost of a power steering conversion and may be worth trying as a second step (after checking over/greasing the existing rack).

 

As for the power steering, my v8 had an original TR8 rack fitted when I bought it and, although it is great at low speeds, to be honest I find it a bit too light, especially at speed. It is nowhere near as easy to place the car accurately on the road as it is the 2l. Thus I find the 2l more fun to drive around the country lanes where out and out speed and acceleration are less important.

 

Just a few things for you to consider from my experience with both set ups.

Edited March 9, 2008 by gordon kerr

[niconicoo]

thankyou very much for those, yes it is mainly when im having to turn it round a very tight space to get in my the garage, i'll grease up the rack today, see if it helps,

 

manythanks

[TR8IAN]

I would agree with Gordon - I am running my 8 without power steering, but with the top roller bearing conversion and I find this perfectly acceptable.

 

Can I also add- check your tyre pressures.

The standard TR7/8 top swivel should never be that difficult to move if it is maintained regularly.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[Hasbeen]

I turned 68 just a few days ago, & I have no trouble with the steering of my 7, or the 8. I do keep the rack greased, & 28 PSI in the front tyres.

 

To my mind, power steering would mske my wedges as horrible to drive as my wifes Mazda 2, with its lack of feel, or feed back.

[FinPurcell]

Just thought I would add my experiences. I have an original TR8 which is a UK car fitted with power steering as standard.

 

The steering is very responsive though not light, very stable at speed, most of it's mileage is done in europe at well over our legal speeds, the car is very suited to it.

 

Any of the TR7's I have had in the past have been exceptionally heavy on the steering, especially when fitted with wider tyres.

 

The fitting of roller top mounts is very good advice, and is less work and expense than fitting power steering. Either the subframe would need to be changed to enable conventional power steering or the electrically powered system could be fitted from S&S. Though if this option is taken be aware that no battery power means no steering if works on the same system as many modern cars.

 

For what it,s worth the roller top mounts are the ideal, with a careful choice of tyres.

 

Regards,

 

Fin.

[niconicoo]

i have a couple of questions,

 

which grease is best to use on the steering rack, and how easy is it to do a roller bearing conversion, how high would i have to lift it, many thanks

 

nic

[Guest Wayne S]

Hi Nic,

 

I use just normal Castrol LM grease in the red top tub in mine.

 

As for roller bearings, they are easy enough but you have to remove the struts. No excessive height required just prop up on axle stands under the chassis like rail underneath.

 

Basically (and from memory as I sit here on the train) :

 

remove wheels

remove caliper and brake pipe from retainer on strut and prop up out of the way

remove 2 other bolts holding on steering arm

take off castellated nut and seperate balljoint from strut casing using ball joint seperater and a scissor jack to take off some tension

undo top nuts in engine bay

drop out strut

 

On workbench:

 

compress spring

lock slotted dished washer with a pair of stilsons and undo top nut (the slotted cup washer stops the whole shock absorber spindle turning)

take of nut and strut top with rubber dougnut (replace if cracked or perished)

remove metal cone

discard thrust washer and replace with bearing assembly

renew shock absorbers if neccessary and its worth taking them out and cleaning / rustproofing inside the strut

grease up roller bearings and put it all back together

rustproof inside turret while u have the chance

 

I did the above job in an easy day inc painting, waxoyling and taking my time.

Edited April 3, 2008 by Wayne S

[niconicoo]

right, cheers mate, will get on the case

 

thanks very much