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Markus

Oil Pan Removal

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I'm sick of the persistant oil weeps coming from the timing cover, oil pan gasket and head gasket. And yes, I do know "it's a Triumph" and "it's just marking its territory" and "they all do that" and I should learn to live with it but humour me!

 

Can I remove the oil pan (sump) from the engine block without removing the entire engine from the car?

 

Can I replace timing cover seal and gasket and the thrust washers while the oil pan is off but with the engine in situ?

 

As always, your advice would be most welcome.

 

Mark

70 Damson PI

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I'm sick of the persistant oil weeps coming from the timing cover, oil pan gasket and head gasket. And yes, I do know "it's a Triumph" and "it's just marking its territory" and "they all do that" and I should learn to live with it but humour me!

 

Can I remove the oil pan (sump) from the engine block without removing the entire engine from the car?

 

Can I replace timing cover seal and gasket and the thrust washers while the oil pan is off but with the engine in situ?

 

As always, your advice would be most welcome.

 

Mark

70 Damson PI

Hi Mark

You can certainly do all of the above with the engine in.

I have done all these in the last 12 months myself.

Make sure you have the car up high enough (and secure) because you will spend a fair bit of time on your back underneath.

There is plenty of good info in previous posts re thrust washers and how to change and measure end float.

I started by replacing the old washers with two standard ones and then measuring the end float to see what I needed to get within the limits.

Used a dial indicator on the crank to measure end float.

Make sure the thicker washer is at the rear as this cops all the wear when the crank moves forward as you press the clutch in,also grooves facing out.

Check this site,

http://britishcarweek.org/tr6.html

http://britishcarweek.org/tr6_1.html

Be careful with the sump bolts at the front of the engine or you will strip the thread in the sealing block.

If you're going to replace the timing cover gasket and seal you might as well also replace the timing chain and tensioner.

Follow the details in the Brown Bible for this.

I found it easier to do with radiator and grille removed.

Be careful with the quality of the parts obtainable here in Victoria ! PM me if you need more info on this.

I ended up getting the bits from Greg Tunstall in Qld,worth talking to Steve up there first too.

Be aware that you may do all of this and still have oil leaks.

Good luck.

John

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Mark,

No argument with the above.

While you have the sump (it's a SUMP on a TR, not an oil pan!) off, spend some time straightening the edges. DPOs often over tighten the bolts, trying to stop leaks, and indent the area around each bolt hole. Then, there is no hope of a seal, as the rat of the mating surfaces are barely in contact. Take a straight edge, and lay it on the mating surface - I'll bet you that many will be raised.

Use a light hammer and a suitable dolly - I have a piece 1/4" plate steel that does this nicely - to beat the raises back in line. Then careful and equal tightening to the approved torque (20ftlbs) should acheive a seal.

But it's not only the sump that leaks! The timing cover too, from the same cause that JohnC mentions - the alloy bridging plate at the front. The cover has some large screws, rather than bolts, I think as the tightness that the cack-handed mechanic can exert with a screwdriver is less than that with a spanner. Sad to say, Triumph used conventional UNF threads instead of UNC that would have been stronger in alloy. These screws need be little more than hand tight.

 

John

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