Rear axle buffer

[kiwi-jim]

I have a couple of rubber pieces the catalogues call a rear axle buffer.

My questions are what are they? How do you get them on the axle tube? what do they do?? Where exactly do they sit on the tube?? and which way up??

 

I assume they go in the vicinity of the axle check strap and they provide cushining between the axle and the frame with the thicker bits providing the cushoning

 

Do you have to slit them to attach them as I notice the catalogues talk of wiring them in place on early axle cars. and with all the welded on brackets on one side of the axle i cant see how you slide them on.(assuming thats where they go)

All suggestions appreciated

[stuart]

I have a couple of rubber pieces the catalogues call a rear axle buffer.

My questions are what are they? How do you get them on the axle tube? what do they do?? Where exactly do they sit on the tube?? and which way up??

 

I assume they go in the vicinity of the axle check strap and they provide cushining between the axle and the frame with the thicker bits providing the cushoning

 

Do you have to slit them to attach them as I notice the catalogues talk of wiring them in place on early axle cars. and with all the welded on brackets on one side of the axle i cant see how you slide them on.(assuming thats where they go)

All suggestions appreciated

Hi Jim the buffers are normally split to allow fitment over the axle tube. They fit over the axle tube at the point where it sits on the chassis leg each side with the buffer portions at the top and bottom. If fitting to a bare chassis you may need to load it down to get them around the axle as it will be firm against the chassis until its fully loaded. I affix them with cable ties around the shoulders on each side but pull the cable ties up as tight as you can to stop any twisting. They were originally fixed with wire ties similar to the ones found around a large sack of potatoes.

Stuart.

[kiwi-jim]

Hi Jim the buffers are normally split to allow fitment over the axle tube. They fit over the axle tube at the point where it sits on the chassis leg each side with the buffer portions at the top and bottom. If fitting to a bare chassis you may need to load it down to get them around the axle as it will be firm against the chassis until its fully loaded. I affix them with cable ties around the shoulders on each side but pull the cable ties up as tight as you can to stop any twisting. They were originally fixed with wire ties similar to the ones found around a large sack of potatoes.

Stuart.

 

Thanks Stuart that is what I thought, sort of. I was a little unsure since the tubes are unsplit and they look brand new. the rebuild is continuing slowly but we will get there.

cheers

[Menno van Rij]

Something like this?

 

Menno

[stuart]

Exactly like that Menno!!

Stuart.

[HeswallTR3]

The only thing I would add is that when you split them to fit around the axle, dont cut across at 90 degrees, split them on an angle of 45 degrees apparently this enables them to hold together better with the tyraps

 

Keith

[ianc]

A V-shaped cut might be even better, as it would tend to prevent movement in either direction (towards or away from the brake backplate). These bump stops are now available in polyurethane as an alternative to rubber - see Revington's website. Cable ties are much better than wire, as one can get a really tight binding and they look neater.

Ian Cornish

[Tr4Tony]

A V-shaped cut might be even better, as it would tend to prevent movement in either direction (towards or away from the brake backplate). These bump stops are now available in polyurethane as an alternative to rubber - see Revington's website. Cable ties are much better than wire, as one can get a really tight binding and they look neater.

Ian Cornish

 

But make sure the cable ties are narrow (say 3mm maximum) or they wont hold the bump stop in place .....

 

The consequence of not having them or causing them to be removed by bad fitting or enthusiastic driving is that you get a rather large dent in the rear parcel shelf panel, inside the one pressed by Triumph and it makes a huge 'bang' when it happens ...... if you do it hard enough you also break the rear shock links, anti roll bar mounts (if you have one fitted) and usually all sorts of other things .......

 

If you ever et the car far enough off the ground that it lands rear axle first it also makes an enormous racket, plus the rest ...... but good bump stops on the axle and above the axle casing make a great difference. Another little thing to make a proper job of.

 

Revington TR's uprated parts are particularly good here.

 

Regards

 

Tony

[kiwi-jim]

 

Thanks guys thats great I can see exactly where they go cheers

[fingoon]

I am curious about the positioning of the rear brake pipes, as I see from the photos that they are positioned under the bump strap. Is there any possibility of the brake pipe being pinched if the supension bottomed?

 

cheers

 

Rob

[Menno van Rij]

I am curious about the positioning of the rear brake pipes, as I see from the photos that they are positioned under the bump strap. Is there any possibility of the brake pipe being pinched if the supension bottomed?

 

cheers

 

Rob

 

The rear brake pipes are in front of the axle buffer. In case to buffer and the strap collide, the pipes will not be touched. I know that this picture isn't very clear on that. Imho this route is the only possible: guiding the pipe around the strap will lead it away from the rear axle, causing the possibility to be torn.

 

I have more pictures on my home computer (at work now ); PM me if you want additional info.

 

Regards,

Menno

[fingoon]

guiding the pipe around the strap will lead it away from the rear axle, causing the possibility to be torn.

 

Hi Menno,

I have set pipes around outside of bump Straps in a "U" shape. Are you saying that this could cause vibration and subsequent fracturing of the pipe?

 

Mine had this arrangement before so I basically followed what had been but this does not make it right.

 

Rob:

1960 powder Blue 3A, rolling chassis complete, body just finished skuttle shake brace and preparing for paint.

[Menno van Rij]

guiding the pipe around the strap will lead it away from the rear axle, causing the possibility to be torn.

 

Hi Menno,

I have set pipes around outside of bump Straps in a "U" shape. Are you saying that this could cause vibration and subsequent fracturing of the pipe?

 

Mine had this arrangement before so I basically followed what had been but this does not make it right.

 

Rob:

1960 powder Blue 3A, rolling chassis complete, body just finished skuttle shake brace and preparing for paint.

 

Yes, I've seen the original layout when we (Allen and myself) dismanteled the car: straight(ish) pipes, shortest routing possible. I think that it's okay to repeat / copy that. It has worked for over 45 years on TRs didn't it?

 

On the other hand: we discussed and opted for the alternative route: as close as possible to the beam. I think that there's no harm in routing the pipe inside the bump straps, as long as the pipe goes as far down as possible, and much lower than the axle bump's impact absorbing profile (the top). Then there's no way that in this configuration the bump strap and axle buffer will crush the pipe.

 

We didn't copy the original routing for (1) esthaetic reasons (is this the correct spelling?) and (2) these straight pipes are unsupported for quite a distance. I think that it will enhance vibration (3) consequently: the bends in the pipe as we routed it, will absorb more of the vibration (we think); it's the same as the temp. transmitter under the bonnet: it also has 3 loops to overcome vibration.

 

As said: if you want additional pictures, just send me a PM with your e-mail address for high res. pics.

 

Regards,

 

Menno

[Don Elliott]

Here are the photos from 1989 I sent to Menno recently. He used these to guide him. I made these pipes from new steel tubes exactly as the original ones I removed with 80,250 miles from new. These new ones have done a fine job since 1990 (98,000 more miles) and are still like new.

 

Menno, I notice that the pipe enters your slave cylinders from the other direction. If you have put them on backwards, you may have a problem the way they are supposed to slide. Does your hand brake work to lock the brakes ?

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

Edited January 30, 2008 by Don Elliott

[Menno van Rij]

Menno, I notice that the pipe enters your slave cylinders from the other direction. If you have put them on backwards, you may have a problem the way they are supposed to slide. Does your hand brake work to lock the brakes ?

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

 

Don,

 

I'm going to work on my car next Saturday. I will look into it asap! Thanks for the input.

 

Menno

[vivdownunder]

Hi Menno,

 

I notice that you haven't fitted the rubber dust cover to the slave cylinder in your photo, which protects the slider function of the slave cylinder, and the inside of the brake from dirt and water penetration. (The slave cylinder moves back and forth when the handbrake is applied).

 

If you purchased new slave cylinder retaining kits, these dust covers would have been included.

 

Should you want to fit them now, you will have to disconnect the brake line and handbrake cable, so it might be an even busier Saturday in the garage !.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[Menno van Rij]

Hi Menno,

 

I notice that you haven't fitted the rubber dust cover to the slave cylinder in your photo, which protects the slider function of the slave cylinder, and the inside of the brake from dirt and water penetration. (The slave cylinder moves back and forth when the handbrake is applied).

 

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

Hi Viv,

 

These pics were taken before I found the dust cover on the bottom of the box They are installed now. But their fit is lousy. (I almost used foul language here...). I don´t know if their instalment will add to the overall protection of the sliders. I´m afraid dirt will be trapped inside. I bought these parts ´off the shelf´ from our Dutch Moss agent.

 

As always, thanks for the input! And I will be looking into the brake line matters as Don stated earlier.

 

K.R.,

 

Menno

Edited February 1, 2008 by Menno van Rij