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tr4 rear valance


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John,

 

Buy Billy's as a new one of these is about as rare as it get's, as you now know.

 

Buying a secondhand one and having to fettle it will be expensive.

 

David

Hi David,

I wiil, I rang him up and he will get it for me, a price still has to be agreed.

As it happens he lives just across the road from me!!!!

Cheers, John.

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I was in TRShop in Chiswick on Friday and bought a part off a 4A Lucas was breaking it must be worth a phone call as he regularly breaks TR's.

Incidently it took me 6 months to get one a year ago when I was restoring my 4A the new moss panel i got fitted where it touched and was 15mm too wide it needed a professional panel beater to reshape and fit it. Best to get second hand if you eventually get a choice.

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Hi,

 

I have a boot frame, boot (needs attaention) and a rear valance which is new.

Downside:- rear valance is plastic, whilst other panels are steel.

Up to you.

Ring if interested.

Cheers

Nigel

Hi Nigel,

thanks for that.

I assume you mean fibreglass?

I prefer to keep it all metal, but thanks anyway.

John.

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  • 4 weeks later...

HI guys

 

I'm back and still no rear valance!!!

Billy has not shown any sign of life.

I haven't heard from him for 3 to 4 weeks.

Any body heard anything from British Heritage as to when they might start pressing some??!!

 

This is frustrating! Pff

cheers, John. :(:(

Edited by mandarawessels
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If you can't get a steel one then get the plastic one , if the price is right. If that fits you can get a panel beater to make you one in steel from the pattern. I was fobbed off for a couple of years as to when they would be reproduced, but luckily I got a repro , badly fitting one that a body man sorted for me, or I would also have had a restoration on stop.

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It took me three years to find a new old stock Stanpart rear valance and I had to pay serious money for it.After trying Heritage valance's twice and rejecting them because they only fitted where they touched I am so glad that a search finaly found the Stanpart one.What a superb fit.My TR5 only gets the best as does Wyn's.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter. :P:P

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You're right there Harry, only the best for my TR but I still wouldn't open my bonnet next to you, although I would race you up the road!. It's been a difficult year for me with regards the car, I've nearly lost the shirt off my back and every other shirt I've got come to that, but you live and learn. I have to find the enthusiasm to rise from that, learn from it, too much of a financial commitment now to throw the towel in, time to look forward to LeMans next year. 2008 is a new year and a better one I hope, and well rid 2007 as far as my TR5 is concernced.

 

happy Xmas and New Year to everyone.

Wyn

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... too much of a financial commitment now to throw the towel in ...

At least with a TR5 you stand a good chance of recouping most of your investment should it ever be necessary to sell (assuming the rebuild is completed). With all the other models, you have to write off the cost over a number of years and ensure you get maximum use out of the car. That way it still works out cheaper than buying a new car and far more enjoyable (at least that's what I keep telling myself <_<).

Edited by BrianC
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  • 3 weeks later...

:lol::lol:

HI all

Thanks to IanR I am now completing my Tr4 project!!

I have enclosed some pictures for you all!

Many thanks to all of you for all you help. suggestions etc, much appreciated.

No doubt somewhere along the restoration another problem will arise for which I might need your advice.

Cheers, John

Edited by mandarawessels
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John,

You are most elcome I am glad it worked out OK, looks like you are on track for a wile anyway. ANything I can do to help just ask>

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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John ,the floor goes in with the large hole towards the rear valance,cant see if the hole is solid or cut out on your panel, but its about 3 inches wide,hope this makes sense,regards nick.

Thanks,

but what are the 2 holes you can see on the photo for? these 2 holes seem to be for the lockhandle is that right?

And what are the 2 nuts for?

Tx, John.

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Thanks for that.

I trial fitted the floorpan in the boot today and the fit is very good.

The only problem i have is when I line it up, flush with the bottom edges of the L and R sideparts and flush with the top of the rearvalance,

the central part, which has a circular "indentation", rests on one of the two chassis tubes that run across the chassis.

Is this acceptable, or should I try and weld it in a bit higher.

I'm just a bit worried i might not have enough space for the spare tyre.

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I think you will find that it should rest on the tube as the spare wheel attachment goes through the hole in the tube. In effect the spare wheel is then clamped to the tube and not bouncing around on the floor panel. This is how my early TR4 was built.

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The captive nuts are for a tool strap.When I lined up my boot floor,the front edge nearest the diff needed a 1/2" extra lip welded in.Mind you this was a early pressing from TR Bitz and corrected very early on.TR Bitz never seem to blow their own trumpet on the panels that they produce and they should do as the fit is very good on all panels they make.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter. :P

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