Paul Carey Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 When I bought my TR6 two years ago it came with just four Minilite wheels (one in each corner) and no spare. I bought what looked like an identical spare from Moss only to find later that the internal diameter of the four holes for the wheel nuts was slightly smaller than the four wheels the car came with; the Moss holes are about 16mm whereas the car's original wheels have a 17mm hole. I do not know wher ethese original Minilites came from. The man from Moss said theirs were the "standard" ones! Recently, a kind man from ATS Crowborough overtightened the nuts after a wheel balancing and stripped the threads of my original nuts which I now have to replace (I've done the studs). I can't just use the slightly smaller Moss supplied nuts otherwise the wheels won't centre on the hub (it relies on a close fit between the nuts and the wheel holes to centre). Question 1: does anyone know where I can get 17mm dia bush wheel nuts? (See photo) Question 2: what torque setting should be used on wheel nuts - the man from ATS used 60 lbft which clearly was too much. Paul Carey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 I haven't got the TR6 manual to hand but the TR4A manual has the following wheel nut data: 7/16" UNF Torque: 45-55 lbs ft (6.221-7.604 Kgm) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JRCWeedon Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Hi All I have used 55-60lb/ft on alloy wheels for 20 years with no problems. It could be that your wheel nuts were nut running on a long enough stud I have got eight revolutions on my present car. This could cause the nut to strip. Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 (edited) I have just checked in the TR5/250 manual and it quotes 55-60 lbs ft (7.60-8.30 Kgm) for the same thread size. Bearing in mind John's comment, I think I would probably err on the lower side if not using the full length studs and nuts (and definitely if using the short stud/thin nut combination for knock-off adaptor). Edited October 3, 2007 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Are your original nuts made of polished alloy or steel? Alloy nuts are a real pain, I now always fit chromed steel or stainless ones after a wheel came off my dolly sprint "twice!!" 1st time, on my way home,I felt it wobble and stopped in time,I had been doing ??? mph on the motorway that morning 2nd time it overtook me as I pulled up at my house and ended up in a field 100yds away Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Carey Posted October 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 The nuts are definitely chromed steel. It looks as if I am getting about just over a diameter's worth of thread purchase (8/9 threads/turns) so I think I have enough. The main problem is to find replacements with the correct (17mm) bush diamter. Any ideas guys? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JRCWeedon Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 The nuts are definitely chromed steel. It looks as if I am getting about just over a diameter's worth of thread purchase (8/9 threads/turns) so I think I have enough. The main problem is to find replacements with the correct (17mm) bush diamter. Any ideas guys? A firm in Derby were very helpful when I needed some unusual wheel nuts inforaceways@aol.com or tel 01283 517935 Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 look and see if your wheels are KN minotor [minilight copy]. i have them and the nuts look identical, if so try watford classics,they advertise on ebay. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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