lindatr4 Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Having a bit of trouble when my TR4 overheats (regularly, and always in nose to tail traffic) The engine starts to play up (missing, stalling) and I believe that it could be fuel starvation to the carbs because of evaporation. The odd thing is that when the temp gauge returns to normal the problem remains and I have to pull over for an hour or so...then all's well again! Until of course the next traffic jam I suspect it might be because the fuel line runs up and over the engine between the thermostat housing and the front of the rocker cover. Is this the norm? I would be grateful if someone out there sent me a photo of their engine bay showing the route of the fuel line so that I could confirm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john minchin Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 My TR3 had this type of problem. I am convinced that it was the coil as whenever it stopped I pulled off the fuel line and I got lots of petrol out. Now the coil is changed and it has not missed a beat. I fitted stainless steel sheilds between the exhaust and float bowls with no effect. Mine would be very difficult to start sometimes when hot, and if miss firing on a run a brief stop whilst I mistakenly changed the condensor 'cured' it. Try the coil is my recommendation. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lindatr4 Posted September 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 (edited) Thanks John. A change of coil was recommended by a friend and I have yet to get around to it. I think you have nailed the culprit but I would still appreciate a photo or two from anybody so that I can get the fuel line routed properly. Edited September 19, 2007 by lindatr4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Try this. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lindatr4 Posted September 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Thank you for that Stuart. Looks perilously close to the pulley though! Thanks again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor S Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Hi Linda, I enclose another photo which as you can see is of a TR3 engine bay but the location of the fuel pipe run is exactly the same as on a 4, and Stuart's picture logically follows on from where the pipe goes out of shot at the front of the engine on my picture. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but my TR4 has the pipe run as shown above but I still get similar problems to you from time to time. However the engine never falters on mine it it just that when it is hot and I switch it off sometimes and then wish to restart it within a few minutes it won't re-start. Once it's cooled down it is fine again. Like you I have got to check the coil, although I had the same problem a few years ago with a different coil. People who understand car electricity better than me (most people), seemed to think it could have been a reduced flow of electricity to the coil when the engine was hot. I was told when it wouldn't start when hot to temporarily run a wire from the + terminal on the battery to the + terminal on the coil and then try and start it. This seemed to work, so I fitted a relay (under instruction) to assist the situation. However I still get the problem from time to time on hot summer days. I am going to try some heat wrap around the exhaust manifold next and see if this makes any difference. It is a standard exhaust manifold. I am led to believe that the engines run hotter with unleaded fuel than they used to, as presumably this wasn't a problem with these cars when they were new. Good luck, I hope you solve the problem. Trevor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 They do run hotter on unleaded but my money would still be on your coil. I moved the one on my TR4a to the inner wing and swopped for a sports coil after I had the same problem develop after I started running twin 40s and underbonnet temperatures went up because of my enthusiastic driving!! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john minchin Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Trevor, Apparently wrapping a cast iron manifold is not a good idea. Only wrap a tubular manifold. I forget why exactly. I have a spare coil bolted onto the bulkhead. Always with you and I have used it recently. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor S Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Thanks John & Stuart, I'll investigate the coil first, and look into what you say about heat wrap John. I carry a spare coil in the car but it's down the side of the spare wheel section of the boot ! I know a couple of people who converted to sports coils with otherwise pretty standard cars but they then started to get problems with rotor arms. Coincidence possibly, but I think I'll stick with a standard coil first and see how I get on. Regards Trevor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 In that case sports coil on the inner wing and a new rotor arm from Martin (Distributor Doctor ) is called for!! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Heres two more picys of a nice engine bay. If they are some help. Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 had this problem with my TR3 and all was cured by an overhauled distributor from The Doctor. He will explain the rotor arm situation to you. Now I have no hesitation in turning the engine off in jams and we restart with ease. my distributor was overhauled before and apparently was then fitted with nonmatching springs and weights. I was a fan of easystart and now need no choke and run so much better. He is not cheap but I am very happy to spend £200 to have a proper car again after ten years. Try the distributor and coil and you will be home and dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mossc31 Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 I had this problem and was convinced it was fuel related but in the end a change of condenser solved the problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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