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Found 108 results

  1. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  2. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
  3. Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
  4. My engine builder has started sorting out some of my spare blocks, cylinder heads and cranks in order to build a couple of race engines, one for a TR2 and a spare for my TR4. To get straight to the point, if youre in need of a new engine for your TR2, 3 or 4, I may be able to provide a freshly built modified fast road full engine. Not a full spec but, 89mm pistons and liners, balanced crank, cam to be decided (perhaps what you would like), modified cylinder head, lightened flywheel. Therell be all manner of other quality bits included in the build. The reason for this is that I have a new set of quality 89mm pistons and one with a whole host of other parts. This would be perfect for the owner looking to update his engine, without the hassle, or to the person building a car, but who does not have an engine for it. Price is as yet unknown as spec is uncertain. If youre interested, please get in touch and let me know as soon as possible as this will help me make a decision as to whether or not to build this third engine. David
  5. I have for sale a NOS pair of boxed AMCO 5004 wind wings made specifically for TR2/3/3A/3B in their original box. These are not the Chinese repro items and have the AMCO logo embossed on them. Offered here first, before BST gets a dip, then they go on eBay. AMCO as we all know is the US company that made and supplied parts & accessories to Triumph dealers in the USA when the cars were new. The blurb about wind wings reads as follows. Original Wind Wings offered by Triumph dealers during the 1950’s and 1960’s. These wind wings were installed as wind deflectors on the side of the windshield frames and attached to the chrome lip. Constructed of Plexiglass with chrome mounting hardware and secured with allen screws. No drilling required. This is the items:- https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/triumph/rare-triumph-tr2-tr3-tr3a-tr3b-amco-wind-wings-5004/ GB £ 200.00 plus carriage. Please PM me if interested. Peter W
  6. Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
  7. Hi. Im looking for a right hand drive steering box and column (ideally split) to fit into a side screen car which is being built as a race car. It must meet with proper regulations so needs a steering box, rather than a steering rack. If you have a spare one knocking around, or have converted your car to rack and pinion steering, do please let me know. Thanks David
  8. Not in bad shape, taken on the appearance of a cullender in places but good for parts or for repair / re-skinning. Has to be collected by 20th Feb or its off to the metal scrap with it - which seems a real loss. Free Of Charge if you are using it for yourself. Collect from Chelmsford PM me if interested with your contact details Bob
  9. Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec
  10. Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to be paying a bit more for a Stanpart item. Phone number is 01371 870175, and as Helen is pretty much holding the fort on her tod at the moment then you might have to be patient. Ray and Helen are after all semi-retired, gradually clearing the rump stock of their former TR Improvements business, it's not like they're still a full-time trading concern. Before anyone jumps down my throat, then yes Ray and I have known each other for more than 40 years . . . . and I've known other TR specialists just as long, and longer. None of which influences me unduly when it comes to commenting on their offerings, for better or worse. Cheers Alec
  11. Having been shopping recently, I have a few bits and bobs available for sale! I have attached some photos showing some of the original Stanpart panels which will be for sale. These include doors, wings, bonnets, boots, windscreen frames and other parts for TR2 to TR6 cars. There's lots not in the pictures. I think I'm going to be busy over Christmas sorting stuff out. I also have some 6 cylinder engines, a complete TR250 bodyshell, gearboxes and all manner of other original Stanpart parts. In due course, pictures and descriptions of parts will be available to see online at www.stanpart.uk.com There's nothing to see at the moment. Visitors will be welcome to come and view parts if needs be. I am close to the British Motor Museum at Gaydon, and the Coventry Transport Museum. I can be contacted by PM if needs be. David
  12. 4 x original Triumph TR wheel caps. Chrome fairly poor but the caps themselves are very straight, no dents. Sorry - No badges incl. FREE to anyone who can use them, postage to pay, estimated at under a tenner (probably). PM me if interested. Regards Bob please also see other caps offered from unknown Triumph model
  13. My good friend Julian Richards has one of Andy Wiltshire's tanks in his 3A, and pointed out this advert to me . . . . . In my humble opinion, Andy's tanks were quite simply the best calibre tanks ever made for TRs. NLA, as they do not provide him with an adequate financial return to a one-man band with a full order book of tanks for megabuck exotica. Fair comment, the man's a superb craftsman, he's worked for and deserves his niche market. I very much doubt you're ever likely to see another for sale. Absolute bargain, and nowt to do with me ! Link to ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3A-AXMINSTER-SPECIALIST-PANELS-FUEL-TANK-/112533036867?hash=item1a337ddf43:g:FNsAAOSw74VZjc~K Usual disclaimers . . . . . Cheers Ale
  14. Hi I received this PM and i thought you might be interested in it. Hi Dougal What are your recommendations for changing tubes and rim tapes? Do you recommend changing them at each tyre change baring in mind that tyre changes for us are normally forced by age considerations rather than wear. It is sort of discretionary. tyre and inner tube manufacturers say change tubes every time you change a tyre. I would also suggest that when a tyre is 10 years old it has had it. I would suggest the same rule applies for tubes. I change my tubes every time i change a tyre, baring in mi8nd with my racing car i change the rear tyres 3 times a year. I suppose we all accept that if money were no object we would change our tubes regularly. However, money predominantly is a big object. Tubes do wear. if you imagine the bit of the inner tube that presses against where the tyre sits on the rim, that is the area that wears most. So if you are happy that the tube you have isn't too old and it is a good quality one then you can inspect that area for wear (it looks like it has sort of been nibbled). you can find it because there will be a line running round the inside circumference of the tube that you can follow round starting from the valve stem. this is the most likely area to get wear. However; if in doubt fitr a new tube. It always rains when you are on the side of a road with a puncture. we encourage our customers to fit Michelin http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/classic-tyre-inner-tubes they are £ 12 + VAT at present. I think that is good to say it is a Michelin product
  15. Hi everyone, Purchased a tr3 to do up recently, wondering what year it's from? Vin number : TS 22510 and might have an L at the end. Any thoughts? Many thanks Richard
  16. Dear All, There is no screw or provision for one on my 4, which was rebuilt a few years ago, and it appears that although listed in the Moss catalogue, it doesn't show how or where this is fitted in the footwell. It appears to be missing on a few other cars I have seen, perhaps for the same reason (missed in rebuild). I am keen to make one up to avoid overstraining the carb linkage in red mist moments. =8-)) Does anybody have a pic they could share of the set up? I assume the screw is into a welded in nut somewhere on the bulkhead. Thanks Mike
  17. Buy it Now or Best offer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Car-Parts-Triumph-TR3A-rolling-chassis-With-Wire-Wheels/262792534120?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D37f0ffcb176a4e0d832ec290b669fbef%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D262792534120 Edit: it's on offer @ £1900 but you won't see it in the advert.
  18. Gents, I have a full kit of aluminium body panels TR3/A never fitted on a car in VG condition. Most are NLA. Prefer selling as a job lot or part thereof. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/1218/TR3A-aluminium-body-panels-set-of-9-pces PM or email if interested. Cheers
  19. steering rack conversion contact ring has anybody had experience with the steering rack conversion contact ring cheers pink
  20. This all makes fair sense. Fitting a cooler thermostat will not stop overheating - just delay it. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/ Increasing pressure of radiator cap will raise boiling point. .... But to my mind may explode your TR2/3 Smiths heater....it is also said the bellows thermostat will not work correctly if over 4psi radiator cap pressure is used. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/06/beating-the-heat-advantage-of-a-high-pressure-radiator-cap/ link to Redline Water Wetter Moss Europe http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/water-wetter-335ml-mm220-115.html Probably cheaper on ebay - you can even buy the stuff premixed with de ionised water. Peter W
  21. Hello everyone Got the green light from Mrs to buy a classic car to really enjoy, like both the TR3a and the TR4a irs, lucky that the money is not the issue. I intend to keep it for many years and obviously wish to get it right. I have a very good mate that has a TR6 and will be soon joining his local group. He says do a lot of research, so here I am. Really would welcome any pointers and comments.
  22. Hi all Is there anybody out there who makes a repair panel for the rear deck on a side screen car? More specifically the ends with double curve which meet the rear quarter panels? If these are not available, does anyone have a used rear deck which isn't damaged/rotten at the ends? Any help gratefully received Adrian
  23. Here is Japanese auto designer Miura's take on a flared TR3. Not my cup of tea, but nicely done. Cheers Dan http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/old-school-cars--tokyo-auto-salon-2017/ar-AAlRzIY
  24. Nothing more than a few Pics to share...one at the bottom of this short chat...the red 4A i know well...but the TR2 is gone now...in fact I don't know of a TR2 here in Malaysia today...a few 3 & 3A....but never seen a 2... http://www.penangtalk.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=880 (scroll down to TR2 pic) another pic of the same car: http://penangtalk.com/nmvccr/posts/9115.html in another post on this site, the owner then, Barrie Robinson says "I think Chan Lye Choon bought my TR2 after the rally as I did the fastest time on the hill climb on the last day. He bought it because he thought it was my car that was fast - but it wasn't - IT WAS ME! I beat the Astons, the other TR2s, and the rest. Why? Because I was the only one who rocketed over the top, going airbourne, then seeing the top pylon and going for it. Others just drove cautiously over the top" This Chan won the 1958 Macau GP in an Aston DB3S...incidentally the first Macau GP in '54 was won by Eduardo de Carvalho in another TR2 which is in the Macau GP Museum. (the DB3s won the Malayan GP in '61) Barrie graduated to V8 MGB more recently: http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
  25. Hi Could anyone confirm how many square spacers should be used on the body outriggers please? The original TR2 service manual and Moss Catalogue seem to suggest 4 spacers on each outrigger. I am fitting new sills and floor pans so starting from scratch. Any help greatly appreciated Regards Adrian
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