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Found 352 results

  1. Whole ad can be seen on the main website, TR gets only a fleeting glance at the end. Bob
  2. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner (tank board) is fitted by pushing the top edge into bent strips under the rear deck. This locates the top edge of the liner under the front edge of the rear deck and then a couple of screws into the floor hold it in place. It would be really easy to just pop rivet the firewall to the front edge of the rear deck but it looks as if it gets tricky where the rear deck curves forward at the sides but also the nicely trimmed cockpit liner would have to be mucked about with and it would need self tappers on the top to hold it in place The photo below shows the space to be filled showing the tabs under the rear deck that the cockpit liner locates in (acknowledgements to Revington TR for the photo and who also describe fixing the top edge as being “the tricky bit”!) On the basis of a picture is worth a thousand words, does anyone have any photos of a firewall fixed and sealed to the rear deck and which also allows the cockpit liner to be fitted? Also any recommendations for sealant. Thanks Phil
  3. The TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) is delighted to announce that, following a considerable gestation period, the units are now boxed, in stock and on sale from Pete and Tom (his son) Cox at Pete Cox Sportscars in Redditch. Full details can be found below , with the price and contact details for purchase. Yet another success for the SDF, which exists to: "Preserve the Marque and keep TRs on the road". I must apologise that my attempts to upload a photo have failed - will try again tomorrow! Ian Cornish, SDF Chairman TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) Early TR2 Thermostat Housing The early TR2s feature a couple of items which have not been available for years, one being the double thermostat housing fitted before TS1201E, Part 201522/105584. This assembly is pictured in the left shot on page 72 of Bill Piggott’s invaluable tome, “Original Triumph TR2/3/3A”, but depicts the housing with a blanking plate in place of a filler cap. A filler was fitted to the housing on TS1 and TS2, the first left-hand and right-hand drive TR2s, but it was found unsatisfactory because the top of the filler lay below the top of the radiator. Thereafter, a blanking plate was fitted to the housing and the radiator was provided with a rearward- and upward-facing projection to bring the filler above the top of the radiator. Because these housings are well over 60 years old and were cast from decidedly inferior material, many developed leaks, and, even if they didn’t leak, some early owners decided to replace them with the later and more familiar unit, depicted in the right shot (Part 202033/203781). As it was clear that there was a demand for the original housing amongst those keen on originality, the SDF decided to investigate re-manufacture, in superior materials and to a high standard. This project has been the baby of Christoph Mathey (in Switzerland) and Pete Cox, to whom the SDF owes a deal of thanks for doggedly working for more than two years to bring matters to a most satisfactory conclusion. The new housings have been cast in aluminium, which then has been machined. The filler/neck plate is zinc plated; the bolts, nuts and lock washers are bright zinc plated. The studs are not coated, but only the tips are visible. The units are complete with their 2 gaskets, studs, nuts, bolts and washers, and are boxed. In addition, an extra two sets of (spare) gaskets are supplied in a small plastic bag in each box, plus (for those who may not wish to utilise the filler/overflow) a drilled and plated triangular blanking plate as shown in the photo in Bill’s book. To minimise the risk of damage in transit, the filler/overflow has been rotated 120º anti-clockwise, the unit placed in a sealed plastic bag, and the box filled with lightweight packing material. Thermostat and radiator cap are not included because purchasers will have these already, but Pete Cox advises that the cooling system of the 4-pot, wet-liner TR engine should have a cap with a rating not exceeding 7 lbf/in2. The purchaser can decide whether to fit the housing as supplied, making the car appear as TS1 and TS2 were produced originally, or remove the filler/overflow and fit the included triangular blanking plate, as shown in the first photo from Bill’s book. This reproduction is of a quality far exceeding that of the original, and can be expected to have a life of at least a hundred years, which should be good news to the great grandchildren of current owners! Production has been limited to 50 units, and these are on sale as Part Number 201522KIT – it will be first come, first served, and when they’ve gone ..... The units are available from Pete and Tom Cox at Pete Cox Sportscars https://petecoxsportscars.co.uk/ email: enquiry@petecoxsportscars.co.uk Unit 25, Peltland Trading Estate, Padget’s Lane, South Moons Moat, Redditch, B98 0RB Phone: 01527 522646 (Work hours), 07932 716229 (Tom) and the price is £234 (£ sterling) plus carriage.
  4. Hi, I am attending the spares day on Sunday, and would like to clearout my remaining TR2 spares, all open to very modest offers: Non OD gearbox, good gears Half shaft Door top trims trims, original, plus flbreglass elbow trims Rocker cover and vent/filler 3 deg trunions, new Starter, needs recon Dynmo, working 3 Overriders, used need rechrome Rear axle lowering kit Door latches, used, plus new strikers. See attached photos. If interested please PM me or text on 07961932463, can deliver to spares day FOC. Cheers Mike
  5. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub boss, might the splines fit my TR2 style Doretti column? Dan
  6. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  7. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  8. Hi, Does anyone one know where I can get replacement knurled screws for sidescreen mounting brackets please? I have one missing and one bent (which I hope to carefully straighten). Any help gratefully received Best wishes Ade
  9. Had not seem this image before. Shows the abundance of the early US offerings! Cheers Dan https://www.ebay.com/itm/N347-1954-NEGATIVE-SEXY-LADY-ADVERTISING-TRIUMPH-TR-2-CARS-ALLIED-VAN-LINES-SEE/202758870481?hash=item2f355ed5d1:g:fp0AAOSwlPZdWD-S
  10. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  11. Hi, I’m looking for recommendations for companies who can refurbish the Lockheed rear axle on my TR2.....they need to be in the UK. I want to keep the original. Kind regards Ade
  12. When checking on rear brakes I discovered that the new brake cylinder had leaked and soaked the brake shoes . Brake shoes are so expensive as exchange parts, considering shipping from and to Sweden. Maybe someone knows where to buy just the lining and the rivets? I found at least 3 pores in the sealing area of the brake cylinder, compared it with and old saved cylinder and the old one looked better so I installed that one instead of buying a new. The old one has a more complicated design/better design with a separate piston for the handbrake and a spring behind the actual brake piston. Also discovered that I had fitted the backplate 45 deg wrong and the cylinder 180 deg wrong probably causing only one brake shoe working as the cylinder was unable to slide enough, fitted in that position (a bit ashamed now) And how it should look, used brake shoes nicked from (probably) an old Volvo, just adjusted the length in one end and drilled some new holes for the springs. Exactly same diameter and width.
  13. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
  14. Can't be many California TR2s for sale still claiming one owner! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-Triumph-TR3-One-Owner/254167313092?hash=item3b2d8d6ac4:g:1eoAAOSwo4Vcjn96 Dan
  15. Hi I'm refurbishing the master cylinder on my TR2, once I put the front plate on, the springs don't have enough 'spring' to return the piston when pushed in. The rubber seal at the end of the pushrod by the end plate seems to be the offending item, really, really tight to fit. Is this just a poor fitting repair kit or am I missing something/they are meant to be like that? Both sides are the same I've lubricated with fresh brake fluid etc, and the rest has gone together fine Also the bellow seems to have two retaining rings, I assume this are no longer available so was thinking I could just wire these on Any advise appreciated
  16. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, trying to get my car complete for this summer. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/2526/TR23-Grille-Mouth-trim-WANTED Cheers Bob
  17. Hi all, a bit of advice on my TR2 rebuild, on the old rear valance there appears to be a fixing plate for the rear lights, I can't see anything any of the parts books, is this something I need to make? I assume it sits behind the valance/wing. The one on the car has disintegrated so it's hard to see how it goes....
  18. As I am installing a low port head that was previously shaved, I am having trouble with the rocker gear geometry (so I am using one shim under the rocker pedestal) and also with the exhaust manifold now interfering with the block head so that it can't be tightened up. Is it ok if I shave the manifold flange so it fits? Does this mean my compression ratio is going to be really high? Dan
  19. I was chatting with a friend a couple of days ago and he produced a binder of Motor Sport magazines dating from 1954/55. Whilst flicking through them I found this article about the TR2 which I thought might be of interest here. Rgds Ian TR Review - 1955.pdf
  20. Most of you have probably already seen this film but just in case anyone hasn’t, CLTV ( the UK Sky and Freesat channel not the Chicago version) have been broadcasting archive Le Mans films. Last night I happened across the 1955 race featuring the TR2’s of Richardson, Dickson and Brooke. This was the year overshadowed by the horrendous tragic accident. Last nights film was a Standard Film Unit PR film whIch I hadn’t seen before and well worth looking out for on Catch-up if/when they repeat it. David
  21. Dear Friends ~ I can never, ever understand why some people fit that ugly wide mouth front aprons to really lovely TR2/3's??? My first TR2 was fitted with such a monstrosity complete with obsolete Austin A35 backward facing drooping door handles?? Yes, I know I've got a TR3A which is the least attractive model of the TR range but I doubt it will ever see the road ever again! Tom.
  22. Hi All Can anyone tell me how the Lucas 549 tail lights on the rear of a 1955 TR2 should sit to be focussed correctly? The rear of my car has been completely rebuilt so I have no reference. i.e. Should the lights sit parallel, angled in slightly or angled out? I am assuming that the metal of the rear wing/rear panel sets this angle, or was there an angle on the original lens covers? Should there be a gasket/seal between the metal base and the lens cover? I know there is a rubber gasket between the body and the base. Also Should there be a gasket between the centre brake/number plate light and the body Lucas L564? Should the metal part of this light fitting be chrome or left just metal? Regards Ade
  23. Hi, anyone got experience of conversion kits from Rimmers or Moss for TR2/3 rear shocks? Is it a better idea to repair the Armstrong units?
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