Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'suspension'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TR Register Information
    • JOIN THE TR REGISTER
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • Swap Shop (Members only)
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites

Calendars

  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Cars Owned:

Found 158 results

  1. Hi All, After many years bumping along on dubious road surfaces, I now have the small issue of a cracked near side trailing arm. Hopefully repairable. Has anyone in the UK any experience of successfully welding these 40+ year old aluminium castings and if so who did the work? Any tips and recommendations gratefully received. Many Thanks. Mark.
  2. When I rebuilt the front suspension on my 5 I noticed that the rear of the lower trunnion was touching the outside edge of the spring pan. I assumed that when the chassis was loaded with the engine and gearbox this would change and create some clearance. Engine and gearbox are now on the chassis but there is still contact, although slight, on the spring pan. So do I file a small amount off the rear of the trunnion, ignore it and let it wear itself a clearance, or what? All contributions gratefully received as always! Many thanks, Tim
  3. Hi everyone. This is my first posting. I own a 66 TR4A (live axle) and I have often relied on the amazing expertise one can find in this forum. I hope I can become a contributor as I do more stuff to my car and gain experience One of my inner lower front suspension bushes is gone. It is funny, as the rest, including the outer and upper ones are OK (they were installed new when I bought the car 18 months ago). I think it is because there has been fuel leaking on the rubber (it is just below the carburettors). I want to change it (and the remaining three lower inner bushings, for consistency) and was wondering if I can do that without having to remove the damper and spring. In theory,if I leave the damper in place and unscrew the spring tray from the lower wishbones, I presume the damper would keep the tray and spring in place, so I would then leave the damper, spring and tray hanging from the upper mounting, remove the pin screws in the lower suspension arm and take out the lower suspension arms (one at a time). I would like to avoid having to compress and remove the spring as it is dangerous.and I only have to change the lower inner bushes (please believe me that the rest of the suspension and trunnion bushings are good). What do you think?
  4. Good afternoon to the Forum, On my TR6 PI CP53xxxL, I have a Moss springs set with the fitment recommendation slightly Lower (Front TT4001PR: Fitted Length 6,65, 390 Lbs/in and Rear TT4212PR: Fitted Length 8,85, 420 lbs/in) and the ride height look high compare to the previous set up and unfortunately I do not have anymore the original springs. On top of we have in France under the Forum and club (Triumph Club de France) other TR4A IRS to TR6 owners who are facing too high ride height with the springs provided by the traditional UK providers. Accordingly my request is what are the TR6s Standard/ Factory: 1/ - The ride height Front & Rear? o Center of the wheel to the fender lip wheel arch (to avoid variations due to the tyre fitted) 2/ - The specifications of the spring Front & Rear: o Spring over all free length in ? o Spring over all fitted length in ? o Rate in lbs? o Number of coils? o Width/diameter of the Spring? o Wire thickness/diameter? Best regards
  5. Folks, so it started last week with a nasty squeaking from the rear end. I jacked it up this evening and found that the inner RH TA bracket had a fresh failure. The crack is all the way on the left side of the bolts which suggests an outward torsion of the TA. I'm now wondering what is the ulterior cause for it? Yes, the brackets are old and original but 1/ I have a lot of positive camber on both sides resulting in wearing the outer edge of the tires (worn to the rope that is) after 10,000 miles and 2/ the rear suspension has always been very saggy even after replacing the Armstrong. I have ordered a set of new brackets but what am I to look at in priority now? Tires are 165/R80/15 on 5.5 rims. As always S
  6. I need to replace the LHS tie rod ends and possibly the tie rod itself. Is there any variation in quality or shall I just call Moss ? Memo to self. " Do not drive over heavy bits of wood on country lanes." It is quite annoying as I have only recently had four wheel alignment at CTM in Hampshire. Is it possible to buy rubbish tie rods? Thanks Richard & B.
  7. Hello, replacing all the bushes on the front suspension on my 4A, I bought the stuff a couple of years ago and only getting round to it now, there is a bag of 8 seals, Superpro part number SPF2496-8K, I can see where two go, between the vertical link and the trunnion, I can find find no sign where the other 6 (I assume a total of 4 per side) are required, am I missing something?, as always, thanks, Andrew
  8. Hi, anyone got experience of conversion kits from Rimmers or Moss for TR2/3 rear shocks? Is it a better idea to repair the Armstrong units?
  9. Keith66

    Lever Arms

    Hi All My latest dumb thing, lol. So decided to refurb my lever arms at home. Stripped them down and flushed them out, read up abit (thanks Ed@Bullfire) and it all looked simple enough. My internals matched Ed's, so i got some O rings courtesy of Litespud (thanks again) and came to pop the new rings and new oil in and, doh, my end pluggy things don't match each other? (See pic) One has an O ring in a slot opposite end to the thread the other , nowt. So the question is 1. Why? diff lever arms from a diff year after replacement? 2. How can i tell, codes etc? 3. Most importantly, err does it matter? Hoping not and am gonna carry on. But it would be nice to know if they are diff but should be matched. Cheers Keith
  10. TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13/16” (2.0mm) towards the centre from the outer edge (where it has greatest affect on inertia), and so the cover plate is mounted on pillars and fixed with Allen screws. SOLD 6) TR4 clutch cover plate (to fit the flywheel). SOLD 7) Rear springs for TR2/3/4 – no information on these as I cannot remember how/when I acquired them! SOLD 8) Steering rack, probably from TR7, but lacks the arm on one side. To be collected from Aldbury, near Tring (Herts). I don’t want lots of cash, I just want to be rid of the parts to TR people who could make use of them, not into the skip at the dump! PM me if interested. Ian Cornish
  11. Bought a couple of new trunnions today just to sling in my parts bin. However Mr Moss does 2 types, a 'proper' one and a 'replacement' obviously there is a price difference and me being me went for the more expensive option! So the questions are: What IS the difference between the two? (how would one know that a 'cheap' one hadn't been put into a bag marked with the more expensive option!) Hypothetical question!! I note that the bottom has a steel base, is that correct? ROGERRRRRR one for you! Dave
  12. Tony Sheach is on a rally in France and a King Pin (I think he means Stub Axle) has failed on his TR4. He is near Chablis at the moment, but he and the car are being transported to the Mercure Hotel in Beaune. He needs a King Pin, or a whole front suspension (not handed, so from either side). Tony’s mobile is 07712 190610. If you are able to assist, please contact him direct. Thank you. Ian Cornish
  13. Tony Sheach is on a rally in France and a King Pin (I think he means Stub Axle) has failed on his TR4. He is near Chablis at the moment, but he and the car are being transported to the Mercure Hotel in Beaune. He needs a King Pin, or a whole front suspension (not handed, so from either side). Tony’s mobile is 07712 190610. If you are able to assist, please contact him direct. Thank you. Ian Cornish
  14. I now have everything stripped off my TR5 and the body in off being prepared and sprayed while I clean and treat the chassis and then put all the running gear back on before the body goes back. I want to ensure that it handles well, but is also relatively practical around some of our less than perfect roads. The springs that I have taken off were front yellow/purple, which I believe is "competition lowered", and rear white/red which I can't identify but assume were similar lowered versions, so handling was good if a little harsh. The exhaust manifold and sump had obviously made contact with the road on numerous occassions based on the dents and knocks visible on them, and I want to avoid the scrapes if possible after the rebuild. I'm thinking of road/rally springs from Moss which say "slight raise in road height", but has anyone tried these, and are they good in terms of handling and also how the car looks? I saw another thread on ground clearance, and I know the tyres will reduce ground clearance compared to original as I have 205/60/15 tyres, but with the smaller tyre diameter and slightly raised height will the car look strange? I think I'm going to try these road/rally springs as I can always change later if needed, but with the wealth of knowledge on here thought I'd see if anyone has any views on whether this is a good idea! I'll be putting new polyurethane bushes all round as well. Thanks Parry
  15. pcw64

    Rear springs

    I have just removed my rear spring on my 1974 TR6 and discovered the free length is 290mm with 10 coils and the manual states the it should be 278mm with 6 3/4 coils.Have i the wrong springs fitted or are they uprated ?Thanks Paul
  16. Dear colleagues, I have completed the change of lower inner suspension arm bushings. When reassembling, I have not been able to find the torque setting for the bolt that acts as the lower outer fulcrum. I have both Haynes and Bentley manuals, but they refer to Section 4 and there you only have the reference to the TR4 and earlier system, where the trunnion had two studs, rather than the tr4a system with a single bolt. The manual indicates 5 lb ft (which seems low), and a certain play. But then, the TR6 manual, the TR6 having a similar arrangement to the TR4 (with a Through bolt and a single castellated nut), indicates 50 lb ft... I have seen this question.in this and other forums, with no clear answer. Your views would be much appreciated.
  17. I have a TR4 and the ride height is low at the front and high at the back. It is further complicated by the fact it is a deep dish rear spring TR4 with a TR6 engine fitted. It had new deep dish springs fitted in 2002 and since then has done 8500 miles so they have settled as much as they are going to. Following advice I intend to fit standard shallow dish rear springs to sort the back out. For the front I have figured out the relationship between spacer thickness and affect on the suspension height ( following repeated trials several years ago). I have some spacers to turn to the desired thickness. The question I have is What is a good height from the centre of the wheel arch to the top of the tyre tread ? Mine is currently 2cm/1" which translates into about 5cm/2" chassis to ground clearance which I consider to be too low. Concerning the back axle has anyone got a set of axle U bolts + the plates which go under the spring and have the shock absorber bolt holes in. These can either be TR2/3 or 4 items as I think they are the same. Regards, John
  18. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
  19. Hi, does anyone have any experience of home refurbishment of leaf springs. Can I just 'undo' the retaining tabs and bolts (albeit held in together in a clamp/vice) and it will come apart so I can clean up and paint? Anyone done this and can offer tips. The car is a 1955 TR2 Once it goes back together, any suggestions on the grease to use, I have ready about special paints too that allow the faces to slide. Any thoughts or advice appreciated Cheers
  20. Hi All Planning ahead to some winter maintenance, I am going to machine a jig to drill and tap for helicoils in the trailing arm, to hub flange. I have seen the figure of 4.25" quoted for the pitch circle diameter, PCD. of the 6 studs. Can anyone confirm this figure? Thanks. Paul Bond
  21. The rear end of my 3A is low and the exhaust catches on any raised kerb or bumps. I have a price list from BCC in Redruth Cornwall. The springs are made using an ISO9001 quality control system from EN45 (251A58) British steel. The springs are made in Sheffield. This all sounds like good quality. The cost for two is £376.00 which seems to be high. But buying cheap springs that sink quickly is probably more expensive. What shall I do? Please advise. Richard & H.
  22. I'd be grateful if anyone who has fitted brackets for rear tele shockers, preferably type 2 p/n TT3225x. could tell me the distance between the top of the flat plate into which the shocker fits and the lower edge of the inner wheel arch thanks ray hill
  23. A couple of quick questions which I'm sure lots of you will know the answer to but I'm blowed if I do having searched the forum and the usual TR suppliers websites - is there a single standard thickness for the trailing arm shims and what is it please? Also I see they are available in what I presume is plain steel (not sure if plated in any way) and stainless steel, but what about alloy? I seem to have some very likely looking candidates in my box of bits but they are aluminium. They don't look difficult to make so presumably you can do any thickness you like - general consensus on here seems to be to start with three on a full rebuild - what overall thickness is that though? I see a set on ebay in stainless which says they are 2mm thick ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR4A-TR-250-5-TR6-Stainless-steel-Trailing-arm-shims-/252909154482?hash=item3ae28f70b2:g:rX0AAOSwnONZBfqu ) - hope the link works 2mm sounds thicker than normal, but what do I know !! Thanks as always in anticipation Cheers Rich
  24. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  25. Dear Sages The issue of lower wishbone failure has cropped up in a couple of recent threads and a swift search of the forum yielded references from those who had either knowledge or experience of the event, but nothing specific in the way of detail. I wondered if, for the benefit of the naive, inexperienced and blind amongst us (I score in all three categories, by the way), a few words, or even a gruesome picture, could be shared on what to look for and where, together with what precautions and preventions might be taken to avert disaster. Apologies if I have missed the relevant thread - a reprimand and link will be equally fine. Immense gratitude will ensue. Paul
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.