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Found 83 results

  1. I am presently making a TR4A which I recently baught roadworthy. I have repaired the drive shafts and rear brakes and now I am starting on the front end. I have fit new trackrod ends, which were worn, but notice there is up and down movement of the inner steering shaft, the steering wheel moves up and down @ 1/4 inch. What is the likely cause? Apart from the bushes at the top and bottom of the column, that appear ok, I cannot see any thing else that would cause this.
  2. My TR6 passed its MOT today, which I'm really pleased about. There was one or two observations. I have play in the upper steering column; it moves a little mostly in the vertical plane when you exert force on the steering wheel itself. (perhaps 2 or 3 mm). The Inspector pointed it out and suggested it was likely play in a bush. I have not interrogated further as yet. My question is what is it most likely to be, and is it a tricky job to do. A couple of years ago my classic car garage locally did adjust the column to its furthest position away from the driver; it had been in the outer position for over 20 years, but I'd lived with it. He had said he took the main gauges out for best access to the clamps involved. Its something I should attend to, just gathering some thoughts beforehand. Many thanks Trevor
  3. I need to replace the LHS tie rod ends and possibly the tie rod itself. Is there any variation in quality or shall I just call Moss ? Memo to self. " Do not drive over heavy bits of wood on country lanes." It is quite annoying as I have only recently had four wheel alignment at CTM in Hampshire. Is it possible to buy rubbish tie rods? Thanks Richard & B.
  4. I have the eternal TR problem of the horn going off intermittently on its own accord. I replaced my (1972) standard steering about 20 years ago with what I led to believe was an earlier type with a thin leather rim and separate deeper boss which necessitated the longer push connection. My column was also in the most upward position until last year which I had grown use to. However my local garage lowered it which was good. The horn issue to be honest was there before and after the step change. I believe its the boss shorting out on the horn ring in a random manner. I have recently tried to insulate as much of the exposed parts to avoid connection, which works for a while but eventually it breaks down I imagine due to the rotation of the wheel. I can see if the inner column is raised by 1-2 mm this would move the boss away from the horn ring and I hope solve the problem. Please could I receive advice how this can be done. Is it simply from the connection clamp under the bonnet, or is there something more intricate on the column under the dash? many thanks Trevor
  5. Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing something, because of the flats where the bolts go at the joints, the column has to go back in the same orientation as before. It may well be that the cancellation clip has been in the wrong orientation for many years and cancelled one side sooner than the other! What is the correct orientation of the cancellation ring in relation to the switch? ( I think it should be pointing away at 9 oclock) How do I change it if required - drill another indentation in the steering column? MARK
  6. Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a plain yellow, but the switch has the same yellow green but a black. Hmm. I suppose the black earth from switch can connect to any earth but not sure about the single yellow from the OD harness (865)? Then there is a spur off the main harness, kind of after the heater and behind the Tacho. It contains 4 wires, 3 brown of varying thicknesses and a white with a red trace. So not sure what it is or where it goes. I was thinking through the bulkhead to supply the starter but not sure. Slightly daft question, apart from the Horn wiring do all three column switches go under the steering column harness cover (part 611369) I’m assuming they do but it seems a bit tight through the alloy column clamps (611529 and 611530). Hopefully pics below will help. Cheers Keith
  7. Hi, The TR4 has past the MOT with just one advisory which was a nearside track rod end with some slight play. Can anyone recommend a quality replacement fitted with a grease nipple. Thanks Andy
  8. I need to replace top steering column bush part number 209423. I see that Rimmers do an uprated one (209423UR). Does anyone have any experience of the uprated ones? At 5x the price are they any better than the standard ones. I seem to remember original ones being challenging to fit. Keith
  9. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
  10. Hello. 1st post. Trailered home a 74, Sapphire blue yesterday. After this morning in the DMV the 1st real run out was an absolute joy. Located Putnam County, NY. 121k miles, but the previous owner has spared no expense on garage parts and maintenance. While the exterior is certainly shabby it suits me just fine and seems to run incredibly smoothly. Everything that should work, works. I'm spanner happy and have given it a fairly close look over. Two things jump out. The last steering splined joint has play in/out. This lets the steering wheel move about 1/8". Ive never seen a splined joint that doesn't clamp tight. Should I be looking into that further? The center rear sump bolt is stripped. Sump leaks a small amount and found it checking how tight they were. Not convinced its the source of the leak, but it needs sorting anyway. Are there any recommendations of how to tackle? Drill and retap a bigger hole I'm guessing. Any advice on how oversize to go? I have a catalogue from Moss. Getting together a list of bits. Pretty much anything that is rubber and not essential to the mechanics of the engine is shot to bits. Under hood seals, door/window seals etc. Not instantly seeing everything I need from Moss, is there a better supplier? Very excited to own this car. Right now its got 101 jobs to do, if I choose to do them.
  11. Hi You may remember that the steering bushes that go on the column inside the housing at the dash got chewed up on my TR4A. I have replaced them successfully with the uprated ones sold by Rimmers. Now the steering feels notchy. A little stiff. Should I expect this and should they 'bed-in' over time? In other words, should I stick with it or do I need to do something about it? The TR got an MOT no problem and it was not seen as an 'issue'. Many thanks. Paul.
  12. Propose to fit these to my refurbished steel wheels. I understand that they offer a close approximation to the original size fitted Thoughts?
  13. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  14. Hi all learned brethren. Please take a look at the pictures. I think you click them to make them bigger! Basically, my steering column started wobbling about from the inside. The outer casing was rock solid as was the shaft lock and where it joins in to the rubber joining section. So it has to be the bushes inside. I got them out and you'll see that they seem to be chewed up??? I have bought 2 new very expensive nylon ones (£40 odd quid). 2 Questions. 1: What causes the chewing up and is it something more sinister? Did I have a cheap bush in there? 2: Will the new nylon ones do the job? They are sold as 'uprated'? Thoughts and thanks. Paul.
  15. I am in the process of installing one of the much recommended on here Revington steering arm kits to my TRT3a. At the end of the instructions it says to set the toe in to 20 minutes. Is that going to be 20 minutes each side or 20 minutes total? I know I could phone Revington, but I just thought someone on here might know. Rgds Ian
  16. Can anyone tell me the correct assembly sequence for the steering gear on the TR7/8 please? I'm putting my Grinnall back together and can't get the in-engine bay upper linkage to pull up to the wavy washer. Many thanks Keith
  17. Hi previously had problems with the steering wheel moveing up and down setting off the horn ,so stripped it dowh ,fitted new bushes and reassembled making sure all was tight including clamp and allen key grub screw. problem reaccured very quickly ,the only thing i can think to do is put a slight drill mark (drill tip only) for the grub screw to locate or ?? help
  18. Bought this from Rimmers a few months ago, now ready to fit. See attached pic, is this some kind of sealed for life arrangement where the grease nipple would normally fit via an adaptor? Looking here for answer first, Bank Holiday so would have to wait until Tuesday for some answers from Rimmers.
  19. HI All, just taken the car for it annual MOT check and its failed on the NS track control arm on the steering rack moving back and forth inside the tube which it is, also the horn and n/s/f sidelight, but both of which work?? So the real question is the rack, is it worth sourcing the bush that guides the rod insider the rack tube or just to replace the whole thing with a rebuilt/new unit for piece of mind and simplicity, but not cost obviously. #76 in this image http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/steering/steering-rack-column-wheel-tr4-4a.html The rack does not look that old and I'm sure the previous owners said he'd replaced it along with converting to solid rack mountings just before I purchased the car 2 years ago (less than 4000 miles with me). So I'm not sure if the quality of new units is up to scratch or if I'm just unlucky. Any suggestions? Mark
  20. I appologise for asking what is must be a stupid question............ When measuring toe in (1.6-3.2mm) does this refer to the measurment of each wheel. ie difference between front and rear faces of each individual wheel. Or does it refer to the total accumulative figure when measuring the distance between both wheel front and rear faces. In other words across the whole front end. I always thought it was each indivdual wheel. But for some reason suffering brain fade this morning.
  21. wjgco

    Steel Wheels;

    All I have a set of 5 "original" steel wheels for my six. Given what I know and what I have learned about the car, I'm not sure the "original", is as genuine as one could hope. They are stamped; 5 1/2J 15" As you can see from the photo's the wheels are not in good condition, but, neither are they beyond the pale. (The one shown is one of the better condition wheels) Questions; Could these be bead or sand blasted, prior to powder coating? (I am not sure of the efficacy of blasting welded wheels) If not, any suggestions for bringing them back to 'on the car' condition? Given that this is strictly a road car, driven carefully, what sized tyres should I use?
  22. Richard71

    Quick Rack

    Hello All, I think I mat be in need of a new steering rack........are there any benefits/advantages of the Quick Rack available? I'm guessing the one big disadvantage is it would make the steering even more heavier at slow speeds. Richard.
  23. I am in the process of renovating a sprung spoke steering wheel for my TR4. I have used Black Milliputty to repair cracks at the "T" points and all seems to be rock hard. Just one question before I finally commit to changing from the current 15" wooden rimmed wheel to the 16" item - are the 4-wire spokes firmly attached to the steering wheel rim under that tired bakolite type material? In other words, is careful renovation of this sort basically safe? Best wishes to All Willie
  24. I have just bought Revington top plate part number RTR3075RK ,the spring loaded plate mentioned in the latest TR Action .Does anyone know if this can be fitted without removing bodywork ,any hints on fitting would be much appreciated Keith
  25. Hi Folks. Can anyone help me to identify a well-worn sprung spoke steering wheel I purchased at IWE last August. In the plastic-like rim material there is a capital "B" in a circle embossed on the underside of the right hand spoke where it joins the rim. Does this signify it as being of a type which was fitted to a TR4? Is so, what length of horn contact brush will be required? Pic attached. Best wishes Willie
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