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Found 15 results

  1. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  2. TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13
  3. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 mil
  4. How much movement should there be in the differential. I was fitting a new spline to the rear wheel when I noticed that there is some free play when you move the wheel. I will measure it later today. I think that it is still adjusted as when new and is probably due for an overhaul. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  5. I started the fitting of a Rover SD1 axle to my 7V8 FHC over some 20 years ago but it stalled due to various other mods. My aim was to use the Rover axle with the additional track and 3.08 ratio. Fitting TR7 axle brackets and V8 propshaft the car now drives.I have finally managed to get to try out all my endeavors. I am now faced with a design problem I had not foreseen. I had presumed the main central axle castings of 7 and SD1 were similar seeing as the crown wheel and pinions are interchangeable. Not so! I have noticed that the propshaft drive flange on the Rover axle sits approx. 1"(
  6. Hi Troops, it turns out that one of the circular arms of the half shaft that holds the UJ is oversize so the UJ itself is loose in its holder. Hope this makes sense. Damaged during a repair years ago? Who knows! Anyway, I would really appreciate any advice re purchase of a new half shaft. are there different qualities? Many Thanks Christine
  7. Due to the forced engine extraction, I decided that with the gearbox out I would revert to a non overdrive gearbox. Got to save about 15kg and also it was pointless loosing power and also risk blowing up a good overdrive box that if some day I return the car to predominently road use I might really appreciate. So over the winter I sourced a goodish SH NonOD box, mounting plates and propshaft. Gearbox should be back from rebuild next week, so today I set about stripping the propshaft to fit new UJ's so that it can go off for balancing next week. OK so where does Mike Oldfield come in?
  8. Anyone have any experience of 'Bearmach Plc' u/j's? The company is iso9002 and they appear to supply a lot of bits for Landrovers etc. I googood the part number and they come out ridiculously cheap a far cry from the 30-40 quid that some are asking for the 'uprated' gkn variety. I must admit I pulled out mine and they were of unknown manufacture, but could not fault them at all. Even they do two 'qualities' £3.02 standard and £8.31 for oem.... That's from the long South american river sight!!
  9. Can somebody tell me if the prop shaft can be removed without removing the transmission tunnel. Thinking the front flange bolts may be difficult ? Thanks Alan.
  10. Hello, just spent a very happy couple of hours lying under my 4a checkin' 'n' greasin', mostly fine although I have one question, IRS diff, when I spin one of the rear wheels no play at all in the drive, when I spin the other I can rotate it, probably 10 degrees before the drive takes up, there is play somewhere in the dii but do I need to worry about it. I am gradually going through the car improving and fixing bits as I find them, thanks in advance, Andrew
  11. I have just purchased a set of rear lights to replace my very badly corroded units, the chrome work externally is in fantastic condition not even a blemish but the underside is showing signs of the dreaded mazak curse. I know the forum recommends hammerite for the reverse of bumpers. Do any of you know of a product I could use on the lights to stop these getting any worse, will hammerite be sufficient. Mark PS cheers Tom over the moon with the lights.
  12. I have just purchased a set of rear lights to replace my very badly corroded units, the chrome work externally is in fantastic condition not even a blemish but the underside is showing signs of the dreaded mazak curse. I know the forum recommends hammerite for the reverse of bumpers. Do any of you know of a product I could use on the lights to stop these getting any worse, will hammerite be sufficient. Mark PS cheers Tom over the moon with the lights.
  13. Dear all. I've recently picked up a 'vibration' which i can feel under the driving seat when in forward motion. Seems to get a little more pronounced with speed / acceleration. not severe, but was not noticeable a week or so ago! No vibrations felt via clutch or through gear stick when in motion, so am wondering if I may have the beginnings of a prop shaft issue/diff issue? (or am I just getting old and paranoid!) Not the most mechanically able bod, so anyone who has any thoughts / lives in the Derby City area (Derbyshire) and could give me any advise of maybe what to look for, much ap
  14. Just tried fitting the prop shaft to the TR2 which I am finishing off, having bought it part restored, and find it is about 20mm too short. As far as I know the axle is a later Girling, and the box is standard 3 sincro. Any ideas? Cheers Mike
  15. Hi Have allmost finished the little jobs round the house, so I can get back on the 6. I want to replace the seals on the diff, have drilled and tapt the diff to drain the oil good mod I would like some one who has actually completed this job, to let me no what I am up against I believe I need a hydrolic press pluss special tooling Can anybody advise Regards pink
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