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Found 15 results

  1. TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13/16” (2.0mm) towards the centre from the outer edge (where it has greatest affect on inertia), and so the cover plate is mounted on pillars and fixed with Allen screws. SOLD 6) TR4 clutch cover plate (to fit the flywheel). SOLD 7) Rear springs for TR2/3/4 – no information on these as I cannot remember how/when I acquired them! SOLD 8) Steering rack, probably from TR7, but lacks the arm on one side. To be collected from Aldbury, near Tring (Herts). I don’t want lots of cash, I just want to be rid of the parts to TR people who could make use of them, not into the skip at the dump! PM me if interested. Ian Cornish
  2. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 miles so I'm hoping it's not that. Got under the car this morning and the offside drive shaft has a graunch feel when I twist it holding each end. So I removed both D/S and there is play in both sets in the splines and both outer UJs show movement. I also removed the prop shaft and there is slight play in the splines and the front UJ. Do I.... 1 Drop the diff and check that inside. 2 Drain the gearbox and see if there is anything in the oil. (God I hope not, as I had that out four times last year). 3 Replace both hubs with new and new D/S from proptech (this was on my to do list anyway) 4 Is there anything I can do about the slight spline play in the prop? Appreciate your comments and recommendations as usual. (null)
  3. How much movement should there be in the differential. I was fitting a new spline to the rear wheel when I noticed that there is some free play when you move the wheel. I will measure it later today. I think that it is still adjusted as when new and is probably due for an overhaul. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  4. I started the fitting of a Rover SD1 axle to my 7V8 FHC over some 20 years ago but it stalled due to various other mods. My aim was to use the Rover axle with the additional track and 3.08 ratio. Fitting TR7 axle brackets and V8 propshaft the car now drives.I have finally managed to get to try out all my endeavors. I am now faced with a design problem I had not foreseen. I had presumed the main central axle castings of 7 and SD1 were similar seeing as the crown wheel and pinions are interchangeable. Not so! I have noticed that the propshaft drive flange on the Rover axle sits approx. 1"(25mm) off centre when viewed down the car from the rear.This causes the propshaft to run in a non parallel route along the tunnel and causes the shaft to foul the drivers side exhaust box heat shield at the rear. I should add that the wheels are equidistant from the car body. My question is has anyone else had similar problems? I have heard somewhere that the angles the props can move should be limited. I had thought that this was a tried and tested modification? If anyone has an SD1 what line does the prop. take as it runs rearwards from the gearbox drive flange? I also checked an old 4 speed/auto. axle I have and even that has an off set of around 3/8"(10mm) Any solutions/thoughts most welcome. Thanks in advance David
  5. Hi Troops, it turns out that one of the circular arms of the half shaft that holds the UJ is oversize so the UJ itself is loose in its holder. Hope this makes sense. Damaged during a repair years ago? Who knows! Anyway, I would really appreciate any advice re purchase of a new half shaft. are there different qualities? Many Thanks Christine
  6. Due to the forced engine extraction, I decided that with the gearbox out I would revert to a non overdrive gearbox. Got to save about 15kg and also it was pointless loosing power and also risk blowing up a good overdrive box that if some day I return the car to predominently road use I might really appreciate. So over the winter I sourced a goodish SH NonOD box, mounting plates and propshaft. Gearbox should be back from rebuild next week, so today I set about stripping the propshaft to fit new UJ's so that it can go off for balancing next week. OK so where does Mike Oldfield come in? Well not any tuning specialist I know, but the Guy that wrote Tubular Bells would probably liked to have had it. It rings beautifully due to what I think must be a tiny piece of weld splatter "INSIDE" the tube. However much as it makes a great sound I'm not sure if I like it or what if anything to do about it. The big questions are will it do any harm, and will it make a noise when fitted. If I tilt the shaft backwards and forwards it makes a loud tinging as what ever it is tumbles down the tube, and if I rotate it, it rings as the piece bounces around. So obviously there won't be much tilting when fitted, it should just roll downhill to the diff end, so the big question is what's it going to do when the shaft is rotating at speed, is centrefugal (? ought to speel check that) force going to keep it in one position or is it still going to bounce around and ring? Unfortunately I don't know who owned the car the prop came from to ask, but it could be that for 40 years the car drove around with a constant background pinging noise, and one of the benefits the guy found from having a Type 9 gearbox fitted was that suddenly the car was quieter. So do I leave well alone and just use it, but be very annoyed if it rings, or do I try and do something about. OK yes I could get someone to cut one of the end flanges off, remove, and reweld. But it seems a bit excessive. Or as I'm getting it balanced anyway I wondered about drilling a 1/4" hole in the tube, rattle it out, and then just put a blob of weld in the hole before balancing. Thoughts or anyone had anything similar. Alan
  7. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  8. DaveN

    U/J's

    Anyone have any experience of 'Bearmach Plc' u/j's? The company is iso9002 and they appear to supply a lot of bits for Landrovers etc. I googood the part number and they come out ridiculously cheap a far cry from the 30-40 quid that some are asking for the 'uprated' gkn variety. I must admit I pulled out mine and they were of unknown manufacture, but could not fault them at all. Even they do two 'qualities' £3.02 standard and £8.31 for oem.... That's from the long South american river sight!!
  9. Can somebody tell me if the prop shaft can be removed without removing the transmission tunnel. Thinking the front flange bolts may be difficult ? Thanks Alan.
  10. Hello, just spent a very happy couple of hours lying under my 4a checkin' 'n' greasin', mostly fine although I have one question, IRS diff, when I spin one of the rear wheels no play at all in the drive, when I spin the other I can rotate it, probably 10 degrees before the drive takes up, there is play somewhere in the dii but do I need to worry about it. I am gradually going through the car improving and fixing bits as I find them, thanks in advance, Andrew
  11. I have just purchased a set of rear lights to replace my very badly corroded units, the chrome work externally is in fantastic condition not even a blemish but the underside is showing signs of the dreaded mazak curse. I know the forum recommends hammerite for the reverse of bumpers. Do any of you know of a product I could use on the lights to stop these getting any worse, will hammerite be sufficient. Mark PS cheers Tom over the moon with the lights.
  12. I have just purchased a set of rear lights to replace my very badly corroded units, the chrome work externally is in fantastic condition not even a blemish but the underside is showing signs of the dreaded mazak curse. I know the forum recommends hammerite for the reverse of bumpers. Do any of you know of a product I could use on the lights to stop these getting any worse, will hammerite be sufficient. Mark PS cheers Tom over the moon with the lights.
  13. Dear all. I've recently picked up a 'vibration' which i can feel under the driving seat when in forward motion. Seems to get a little more pronounced with speed / acceleration. not severe, but was not noticeable a week or so ago! No vibrations felt via clutch or through gear stick when in motion, so am wondering if I may have the beginnings of a prop shaft issue/diff issue? (or am I just getting old and paranoid!) Not the most mechanically able bod, so anyone who has any thoughts / lives in the Derby City area (Derbyshire) and could give me any advise of maybe what to look for, much appreciated..... Happy TRing!! Chas
  14. Just tried fitting the prop shaft to the TR2 which I am finishing off, having bought it part restored, and find it is about 20mm too short. As far as I know the axle is a later Girling, and the box is standard 3 sincro. Any ideas? Cheers Mike
  15. Hi Have allmost finished the little jobs round the house, so I can get back on the 6. I want to replace the seals on the diff, have drilled and tapt the diff to drain the oil good mod I would like some one who has actually completed this job, to let me no what I am up against I believe I need a hydrolic press pluss special tooling Can anybody advise Regards pink
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