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Found 41 results

  1. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  2. Hello, I am looking for a good/refurbished PI Manifold. Needs to fit on a carburator CF head (1973) which has a 23mm dimension between intake ports in the middle But I believe all PIs have this. Jochem
  3. Just wondered if anyone here was interested in doing a comparison test between using Header Wrap and Ceramic Coatings. I ask as I will be fitting a new set of Stainless Manifolds over the winter, and have to decide if I Wrap them or try Ceramic Coating. Now I know that the choice is a bit like Marmite, people either love one and hate the other. I'm not out to convince anyone either way, or actually start a long debate about why people think one is better and for what reasons. What I'm actually interested in is getting some real test results as I can find no actual comparisons on the web, well I can but they are either totally subjective and of the I think its much better now I have spent $300, or they are the sudo manufacturer tests where they make impressive claims, but with nothing other than bare metal as a comparison, or use some weird radiant heat measured a few inches away from the manifold. So I though there must be enough of us on this forum with ceramic and wrap that we could set up a test something like running engine for 20 mins and then taking surface temperature readings at a few designated spots, and then producing a table of the results. Not hugely scientific but better than anything I can find. Anyone interested? Alan
  4. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-ducts-ducting/revotec-aluminium-air-inlets http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/silicone-ducting-hose/revotec-flexible-ducting-hose-2 Do these Moss heat carb shields work and are they simple to fit, ie, will i fup uck my carb settings by unbolting the carbs? (do I also need to add gaskets) £46 seems a lot for a bent piece of tin ! http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/-357876.html I was going to slide this over the fuel lines as they sit v close to the extractors. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-cool-tube
  5. Happy New Year I have been reading previous posts regarding Exhaust Manifold Wrap use and there appears to be a lot of mystery. I found this : https://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html Although is American and refers to V8's it seems to comprehensively cover the topic also explains Extractor Exhaust Manifolds! I have had a Phoenix SS 6 3 1 for 7 years on my 6CR and have had no issues, however I have just noticed the wiring on the starter motor has been getting hot so I propose to wrap the starter motor cw wiring with exhaust wrap.
  6. A TR4A friend has suffered a crack/split in his cast manifold. Is it possible to weld or should he look for a replacement? If anybody has a spare available please PM me. Thanks Mike
  7. I know there have been a few threads about this, but guys Im desperate! I have a 1973 car which was brought back from the USA in the 90's and was converted to PI with a donor engine from a 1971 CP car. Ive owned it for the last 17 years, with hardly any issues- superb tick over, good responsive acceleration. Last year it was beginning to run a bit lumpy bottom end on acceleration, so I took it to a rolling road. All was going well, until the mechanic started playing with the throttles, and sprayed carb cleaner on the butterflies. Then he commented that he couldnt adjust one of the sets of butterflies as the slotted end of the throttle rod was damaged. Anyway at the end of it I had a once perfectly ticking over car, ticking over at 1300rpm. I wasnt happy, but he said it would calm down with use. It didnt. I realised having read on here that cleaning them is a big mistake. I also realised that the broken throttle rod needed replacing. I then realised that the exact replacement of the original was not available from Rimmer or Moss. I did some research and ended up buying some ball jointed type rods from Revington TR, these seemed like the sensible option. I bought myself a syncrometer and fitted the rods. I did manage to get the butterflies reasonably synced, but as soon as the car got really hot, the throttle would start to stick. Many calls to revington (who were super helpful) but nothing seemed to sort the sticking throttle. As soon as the rods got hot- just too much friction! I even tried beefier springs on the throttle return, but it spoiled the control and still wouldnt stop the sticking issue. I also noticed that with the the ball and socket design the whole linkage could move laterally- not good. Ive ditched those and found some exact copies of the originals supplied by TR GB. These have instantly cured the sticking throttle, but I just cannot get the butterflies syncing. With the butterflies fully closed the car is ticking over with the airbleed screw fully closed. The hoses are all new and snug. If i use the cigarette paper method to set the butterfly gap, starting on cylinders 5/6 then working to 3/4 the 1/2 the car ticks over at 2000rpm and they dont seem very well synced. I notice that the design of this thing is flawed, because as soon as you get one right, then move on to the next, by adjusting the next it throws out the first. They dont work that independently- its a bloody nightmare! Ive used the synchrometer/ weber tool method too and have managed to get cylinders 6, 3 and 1 (as per the manual) all giving the same reading at 1500 rpm, but when I drop the revs down, the thing is practically stalling when increase the throttle, horrible throttle response. It makes no sense at all. I have noticed that each set is giving slightly different readings on the syncrometer, most noticeable on 3/4 where at the lowest readings im getting 11/2 on cylinder 3 and 3 on cylinder 4. These discrepancies cant be helping! The other thing Im noticing is that if I build the revs slowly and then back off the throttle completely, its taking a long time for the revs to come down, unless I blip the throttle. Im getting very frustrated with this and im unsure what to do next. Am i doing something blatantly wrong, or do all my throttle bodies need rebuilding?? The workshop manual procedure is about tweaking an existing set up, but when you are putting in new rods its like starting from scratch. I know the whole thing is flawed, so maybe an overhead linkage might be the best option and it will get those rods away from the searing heat of the exhaust? if anyone can help, I would be sooooo grateful. Thanks in advance.
  8. Some advice required from the hive-mind please… Last weekend, I had a trouble-free 130 mile round trip in my ’63 TR4. Arriving home, I parked on my drive and went to fetch the garage keys. When I returned, the car wouldn’t start. The red ignition light dimmed when I turned the key but the only other response I could get was a loud clicking sound. I intend to investigate fully at the weekend but am I right to assume it’s probably starter motor related? If so, I imagine it’s going to be an ‘interesting experience’ removing it because I have an original unit squeezed in tightly next to a Phoenix manifold (pic below). There’s only about 12mm between the starter motor and manifold and so horizontal movement will be limited. How much diagonal/vertical movement the unit will have remains to be seen. I’ll obviously check/clean all the electrical connections first but is there anything else I can try before I attempt to remove it? A friend suggested there might be a square shaft protruding from the end onto which I can attach a spanner to free it off. However, mine is covered by a loose fitting cap and there’s not enough space to remove it. The cap is quite brittle and so I could probably destroy it and remove it if it helped? Unless you know of any other clever tricks, is there a way to remove the starter motor without taking carbs/manifold off? We have such fun with our cars don’t we? Thanks in advance! Glenn
  9. The current exhaust system is getting a bit long in the tooth. Bought from TrShop in the late 90,s it's a two box standard system on the standard cast manifold. It has never fitted very well and is getting noisy. What would people recommend as a quality replacement? Cheers Iain
  10. I have been busy today pulling Geoffrey to bits! I am planning to get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated to help to reduce fuel vaporisation. So carbs off (HS6) and inlet manifold removed (only three bloodied knuckles!). I was surprised to see that there was no gaskets! Having searched the forum I note that there have been issues with new gaskets being poor quality and leaking. This may be the reason the PO decided to do without! I was not aware of it leaking so the faces of the block and the manifolds must be pretty good. (Although there does seem to be a bit of oil on the face of the block below the inlets). The studs had three washers behind the nuts - presumably to take up the space and ensure that the thread didn't run out. So the question is do I do likewise when I put it all back together or use gaskets. If so from which supplier? The exhaust manifold is not standard. Will a standard gasket fit correctly? I don't know the make of the exhaust manifold but suspect it is a Racetorations one (it has a slipper joint at the exhaust pipe end). You will note from the photo that the top rear stud has extracted itself. Once I have separated the nut from the stud should I use some "glue" on the threads into the block? if so what!
  11. Anybody able to recommend one above the other ? Been doing some research and found a few customers that have had issues with the former but the latter appears twice the price ........get what you pay for I guess but would be interested in anybody's practical experience. ATB Graham
  12. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  13. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber was looking a tad limp - yup quite loose on touch. Wiggle the chamber and you can feel the retaining bolt head loose on the rear side of the carb. Could this be the cause of non-starting ? Fuel is July old ? Anyway, how the hell do you tighten these float chamber retaining bolts up. It isn't possible to get even a stubby spanner or small socket onto the bolt head as the choke (?) lever that goes under the carb body to the jet assembly is in the way. Where this lever attaches to the jet is a small screw, but you cannot get a driver on the screw head as the float chamber (even when slightly loose) is in the way. Catch 22 ! Anyone dealt with this without taking the carbs apart / off - which I really really really don't want to do. Only got midweek evenings to sort this (and re-attached indicators and spots) get running to check all is running well before Brands - so any advice greatly appreciated.
  14. Evening gents, I recently installed a Phoenix ex manifold and I've noticed that the throttle bodies are very hot. They must be around 50 to 60c just to hot to touch. I dont recall being aware of how hot the throttle bodies were before so I dont know if this is acceptable or not. Opinions / experiences welcome. Thanks Steve
  15. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  16. On the basis that Zircotec must be so inundated with TRR discounters to answer the phone or reply to emails, I will be sticking with the plan to go with Camcoat. I understand the options of 2, 3 or 4 coats inside and/or out etc, but a tad confused with the Cermakrome option. I had assumed that it was a sort of polished option for the top external coat, but the options they emailed through imply its an alternative to the above ? I will call em later to talk through, but wondered if anyone had had the Cermakrome option ? If not, what colour finish do the purists suggest it should be ? TVM ps - note that the prices quoted are circa 20% more than the website shows, e.g., website says £160 + VAT for a 4 pot manifold, but the quote emailed is £192 + VAT
  17. Pukka Circa half price, seem to be genuine, sealed boxes etc http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00062Z12O/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item Unfortunately the stubstacks will need a little fettling.
  18. The shiney new refurb'ed carbs are on their way home (woohoo) (then just got to test fit, get manifold coated (if I can be bothered), fit new exhaust, take fuel tank out and POR15 slosh / coat it, renew fuel lines, etc etc etc !!!!) As a reminder, I have HS6's on a 4a 307455 manifold (on a 3A mongrel) Air Filter Scanning previous posts, I seem to have two options with K&N's 9096 (standard centre hole pancake) 9327 (cone) as fitted to TuRK ? Does either shape have advantage over t'other ? Does the bottom offset of the 9327 still miss the bonnet (my current are offset to the side only ?) Heat Shield Is there a heat shield for this set up, or is it a case of getting a sheet of alli and some tin snips ! Thanks as always
  19. Well the birthday didn't last long ! The lower manifold stud closest the bulkhead had been reluctant to come out. Been squirting it with penetrating oil for some time (trying to keep it away from the head gasket !) Also tried gentle tapping (a little) heat and ice to encourage it to move without luck. So went out and bought a stud extractor, only for it to tear off only half the stud! Tried to get the remainder to come out with mole grip, but as you can see, it is just chewing up the metal. Any suggestions ? ​I didn't really want to take the head off as for every part that arrives, 5 end up coming off !
  20. The rough sketch below represents the extractor against the block (laid on their side) Points X and Y are the bottom and top of the 'flange' against the head. The vertical distance between point 'y' and the point where the collector contacts the block is 260mm. So Question 1: In order for the contact point to be increased to say a safe 10mm between collector and block, i.e., increase the 33mm to at least 43mm... (1a) what would be the necessary reduction in depth of the top of the flange at 'y' (my rough guess is 5mm) (1b) what would be the necessary increase in the thickness of the flange at point 'x' (my rough guess is 2.5mm) Question 2: Assuming that point 'x' is not touching the head, but is away by up to 1mm (due to the collector hitting the block first) (2a) what would be the necessary reduction in depth of the top of the flange at 'y' (2b) what would be the necessary increase in the thickness of the flange at point 'x'
  21. Gents, the workshop manual suggests a torque setting for the "manifold attachment". Forgive my ignorance, but how does one insert a stud with 'torque' or is the reference to the brass nut ? If the reference is to the nut, do i just insert the studs as tight as can be done by hand / pliers ? Also, as I didn't notice when taking the old ones out, is it the slightly shorter length of thread that is inserted into the head ? Also also, should i use anything like lock n seal. Also also also, when removing the starter motor to test fit the new manifold, is there anything that I should be aware of when taking it out / putting it back (I couldn't see any references to sealing gasket in the manual / catalogues) (when putting it back in, will it only engage in one obvious way). Thanks and Thanks
  22. Following the advice of previous threads, I have bought a TR4 exhaust mounting kit from Moss (GFK6210X) (which has the previously advised 130888 mount) to address the previously botched mounting of mine - (which has a single rigid mount at the back of the rear box onto the round cross member, pushing everything fwds to the exhaust manifold with no more than exhaust paste (and the holes in the chassis) holding the rest together !!! I have one of those exhaust manifolds that goes from 4 - 1 next to the sump, then a long pipe routed through the chassis to a single rear box. Does anyone have any pics of their exhaust mounts to assist. Many thanks
  23. Well the mongrel beasts are finally out. The underneath shows the effect off having an unsealed collector combined with running rich. Bob was correct, the throttle thin gamy was not properly connected, just nipped on by the nut - could this be a contributor to my woes ? The manifold has a very dark colouring, what is the cause of this, the exhaust smoke being recycled ? Exhaust extractor is also coming out to be replaced with a phoenix that is sealed ! In effect it is 3 'loose' pieces that sit in a forward facing open collector on the central pipe. Head inlet also very black - is that normal ?
  24. Well the beast is alive. Took ages to 'fire' (if only i had known!) up....until i turned the jet to 11 flats down (could be old fuel - it is after all 15 weeks old !!!) Kept starting, but dying at anything below 2,000 rpm, but eventuaually managed to tick over when warmed up. Sounded a tad rough (always has) and was still smokey (if only i had known). Took it out for a run, lots of coughing under load and backfiring........but only managed 1 1/2 miles before the fire started 😱 ... ... ... Fortunately not fuel related, but exhaust wrap that I had put on in an attempt to temporarily seal the open 'back to front' collector. Despite having been heat hardened last weekend, the heat at the bottom of the extractors was too much for it after just a mile and a half. BEWARE NIGRIN 74071 (it might say on the tin 'auspuff and 500 degrees' but it appears to be easily capable of combusting !) Fortunately, it would appear that heavy smoke billowing from a car isn't that unusual in Downham, so nobody stopped to get in my way? Luckily the wifey was following in the support vehicle. Put out quickly - crawled back at 1200 rpm Offending wrap now cut / chipped off. This friggin exhaust has taken on and fried to a crisp: standard exhaust paste, proper manifold wrap, jb weld high heat putty, and now germany's best ! What next ! It seems that a phoenix (exhaust) rising from the ashes is quite apt ! If you hear about another fire at the Cutty Sark next friday, not to worry, it'll only be me ! Engine bay now cleaned, but the carpets reek reyt rotten ! http://youtu.be/qf69yWy1J2g
  25. Hi, I'm going to remove my throttle bodies and manifold from my CP car and refit to eliminate any possible causes of air leaks and ensure it goes back on square with a throttle body jig so I can finally get those butterflies closed at idle. My question is, are all manifold gaskets the same? I'd like to buy the best there is first time round. I can see the part number is AJM682 sold for £5 or so by the usual outlets but I have also seen a Payen gasket JA510 for £15 and am wondering if it is better. The manifold etc is all standard. Thanks Jim
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