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Found 210 results

  1. This should keep you busy Please add on 1/ New type Kenlowe fan
  2. Help! ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut! I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers) Any suggestions gratefully received. Steve
  3. This question is popular on other forums and I couldnt find anything on here so I thought I'd start..........better if you can show pictures. Today Ive fitted a firewall to my TR4. Not that bad to fit but not sure what level of seal is acceptable/advised.
  4. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  5. Hi All Car lifts. Just wondering what solutions everyone had come up with? Now its not just a TR thing as i do have a couple of other oldish steeds on the fleet that i need to look after, but i'm considering something i can use on the TR as i've still got some plumbing to do underneath, but i've also go the Wife's (cough cough) MG TF to look after and at 15 years old it needs a fair bit of fettling, with suspension and rust problems to sort, subframe and suspension rust as the body is almost immaculate, they were pretty good at the end. But only having a domestic garage and narrow drive space is very limited, but TBH i'm a little fed up with trolly jacks, which don't fit under the MG anyway, and axle stands, its all abit of a pain and timeconsuming getting them in the air. So i've been looking round for some kind of lift. Clearly no room for a post lift or the like, although i've seen some sizzor things and alot seen to be pretty serious bits of kit with prices to match although i've found a couple of cheapo ones but also most seem to have cross beams so not easy to access under neath. Now has to be "portable" or at least put awayable as i cannot just leave it on my drive, so nothing fixed or big and heavy. One i've seen is this but it looks a little low and unsure if its sturdy enough https://www.quickjacklift.co.uk/car-lift-systems/bl-3500slx-portable-car-lift.html So any other ideas or recommendations out there. Cheers Keith
  6. Keith66

    MOT exemption.

    Hi All I know this one has been discussed before but this is more of a technical question rather than an opinion. So my 1972 TR6 is off the road at present undergoing a long term restoration. As its now MOT exempt do I need to MOT it when finished or do I just remove the sorn declare it MOT exempt and tax it? If the latter is ok how long does that process take and can I commence it prior to it being finished or is it still illegal to go through that process with a car which could not pass an MOT despite it sitting in my garage and there being no intention of it being on the road until complete. Ill probably get it checked over by a specialist before driving it regularly anyway but just want to cover all eventualities. cheers Keith
  7. After lavishing money, time and effort on my 1972 TR6 this year in a number of areas. Famously eliminating my age old fuel smell problem and more significantly cash spent on my 132k miles engine to breathe new life into it. As well the gear box being extracted for primarily a noisy first gear, the lay shaft bearing had landed up in the overdrive with no additional damage thank goodness. All back together with a new clutch to suit. Whilst fettling with the cars induction over the past week or so to get things just right, I noticed the clutch master cylinder had dropped to almost empty, however on filling it up I noted I hadn't lost prime and clutch activation. (The garage hadn't needed to disturb the clutch hydraulics.) The symptoms were loss of fluid from the slave cylinder under the car, the colour of the fluid on the floor was a dirty black colour. Also the bottom of the master cylinder was full of black 'mush'. which I removed as best I could. I fitted a new slave cylinder yesterday and relocated the linkage to the top hole on the activation lever. With the help of my son I have bled the system numerous times (Dot 4) through a rubber tube into a flooded jar, with no evidence of air bubbling through, and although the pedal feels fine I cannot engage gear. On starting the car in gear with the clutch disengaged there is slight clutch drag, but the car cant be driven. I haven't measured the throw of the slave assembly pin, but it looks like about 15 mm. There is no evidence of leakage from the master cylinder, however removing the rubber gaiter, the piston is fouled with black residue. I'm beginning to think the master cylinder given the evidence above is now problematic. I'd love to hear the readers views on this experience. Best Regards Trevor Hughes
  8. Hi guys, Thanks for all the helpful posts I've already learnt from. As a relatively new 6 owner here, and I want to check my thrust washers as a preventative measure. I've searched through many threads on here and have got a good idea now, but I wanted to list it out to make sure I've got it right. 1) using a Dti gauge measure the current end float (push pulley in, press clutch to push out) 2) if above reveals wear over minimum, drain oil, remove sump, bearing cap and take out TW's and check (if possible) what size were fitted. 3) if I can see what size were fitted then order a new set of the same and fit and re test the end float. Any variation would now need an additional over size TW to that was previously fitted? Is it obvious which way round they fit? 4) use assembly lube to refit TW's and bearing/cap, torque up. 5) new sump gasket (and a sealant?) And fit sump, new oil, check for leaks. Is that pretty much the method? Gareth
  9. Hi everyone. Just discovered that there doesn't appear to be info in the TR4 Workshop Manual on how to adjust the accelerator pedal screw. It is referred to in the Manual - P1.306, Fig 11, Items 23 & 24. However, nothing as to the correct setting. The excess thread sticks out rather a long way from the scuttle panel. See pics attached. Does anyone have a starter figure? Best wishes Willie.
  10. Hi All, I am hoping someone will pick this request up and confirm a point of confusion before my TR4 gets the gearbox overhaul completed. WHICH WAY ROUND DOES THE CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING GO? Does the larger diameter flat face point outwards from the bellhousing as the original TR4 Workshop Manual illustrates? That is how the bearing is set currently, but in the next couple of hours we will either commit to that or have to open the assembly up and swap it round. I hope this reaches an authority on the subject in time!! Best wishes Willie
  11. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  12. So I have a temporary garage at the moment its very tight spaced so I bought one of those easy tanks that are only 8cm high for collecting oil from sump so I could work from the front of the car with only the need to raise my Tr5 a couple of inches. Like a wally I didnt think to remove the second plug to on it to speed air out and so the rush of oil overdid the flow into the collector. Now I have about a litre of nice black oil on the concrete floor of the garage.... I have googled ways to clean ranging from WD40 to Coca Cola. Anyone got some magic solution for removing the foot square stain??? Well at least as always my magnetic drain plug was perfectly clean of any swarf. Cant same for garage floor now though ....
  13. Why is it so difficult to fit the heater? I had the motor overhauled and cleaned up the rest of it. Trying to make it fit back in is very hard. The bracket which attaches to the bulkhead behind the battery seem to hold the heater too low. I removed the dashboard stay and fitted the heater back in but it needed a lot of leverage to replace the stay. After a while lying on your back under the dashboard, begins to lose it's appeal. This is not a complicated job but I am obviously doing it the wrong way. Any advice would be very useful Almost ready for Drive it Day. Thanks Richard
  14. Bought a couple of new trunnions today just to sling in my parts bin. However Mr Moss does 2 types, a 'proper' one and a 'replacement' obviously there is a price difference and me being me went for the more expensive option! So the questions are: What IS the difference between the two? (how would one know that a 'cheap' one hadn't been put into a bag marked with the more expensive option!) Hypothetical question!! I note that the bottom has a steel base, is that correct? ROGERRRRRR one for you! Dave
  15. Does anybody have experience with this company please. http://www.jlspares.com/
  16. Hello, having a good clearout of stuff I no longer need or in this case, have never used, brand new King Dick sockets and extensions for use with an impact driver, all imperial British Made, excellent Quality, Brand New 3/8" drive sockets, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" all six point in black industrial finish 3/8" drive deep sockets 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" 2 Extensions 1 1/2" and 3" He named the tool firm after his dog if you were wondering, £40 including postage, grab a bargain!! Cheers, Andrew Now Sold
  17. Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some points of view on this topic. I rebuilt my '71 TR6 using original parts in 1989. It has not done a whole lot of miles since and stood for extended periods while we lived overseas. I have now passed the car on to my son and am giving him some assistance in swapping in a replacement gearbox. As a matter of course we are replacing the clutch (well having the Laycock unit re-manufactured by Precision Clutch), release bearing etc. plus any other pieces that make sense 'while I am there'. I have two questions: 1) The original gearbox mount fitted in '89 is in good order but is getting on in years. Should I replace this with a new reproduction item or stick with a sound original? There is no sign of perishing or undue movement. 2) Should I change the rear oil seal simply based on its 29 years of limited service. There is no sign of any leak (posted on old thread yesterday but no response). Just trying to resolve 'if it aint broke don't fix it' vs best practices vs relative quality of new reproduction parts. Many thanks, John
  18. Good Morning Guys, I am looking at changing my choke lead (Triumph TR6 Pi 1970) it has a single cable going to the MU is it possible to change just the inner cable and if so what cable would you recommend. Plus any tips on how to do this, thanks
  19. MARK

    Heater motor

    Currently have dash and under dash stripped out on my 73 tr6 to get at the dreaded rot around the drains on the heater plenum. So it would be a good time to sort out my heater !! The heater motor sounds a bit weary and I will be checking the matrix. Has anyone sourced a better motor ( 2 speed) or had experience of uprated motor from the usual suspects - Ross and Mimmers ? The same for the matrix ! I would like to get heater sorted for once and for all as I don't want to go through this excavation again !
  20. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
  21. Hello All trying to use the power of the internet and the Tr Register to get some history on my car I am wondering if anyone knows anything about the history of my car when i got the car all i was given was a Heritage cert a few docs and the logbook i would speak to my local group but as the car has had 14 owners not sure that would get any results was hoping someone would recognise the reg number and know a little bit about where its been serviced etc etc the car had some work done recently as its in very good condition for a car stood for so long so someone must know of it EHP 630L kind regards
  22. So after years and years of the unleaded situation I was wondering if there are definitive articles on all the unleaded saga? Both my CP Tr6 and Tr5 have been running on unleaded with a dash of castrol valvemaster without any conversions for about 20 years now right? Recently I swapped out a metering unit for a torn diaphragm which has more to do I suspect has more to do with me leaving the system dry for 6 months, I also just replaced a broken rocker on N°2 valve which is an inlet valve not exhaust anyway. So where is all the worry? 20 years hard driving expecting to face the unleaded devil.. Have I missed something or was the unleaded story just a saga after all? What did people generally find after all the worry 20 years ago? Tony
  23. I thought you might be interested in this PM i received Hi Dougal What are your recommendations for changing tubes and rim tapes? Do you recommend changing them at each tyre change baring in mind that tyre changes for us are normally forced by age considerations rather than wear. It is sort of discretionary. tyre and inner tube manufacturers say change tubes every time you change a tyre. I would also suggest that when a tyre is 10 years old it has had it. I would suggest the same rule applies for tubes. I change my tubes every time i change a tyre, baring in mi8nd with my racing car i change the rear tyres 3 times a year. I suppose we all accept that if money were no object we would change our tubes regularly. However, money predominantly is a big object. Tubes do wear. if you imagine the bit of the inner tube that presses against where the tyre sits on the rim, that is the area that wears most. So if you are happy that the tube you have isn't too old and it is a good quality one then you can inspect that area for wear (it looks like it has sort of been nibbled). you can find it because there will be a line running round the inside circumference of the tube that you can follow round starting from the valve stem. this is the most likely area to get wear. However; if in doubt fitr a new tube. It always rains when you are on the side of a road with a puncture. we encourage our customers to fit Michelin http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/classic-tyre-inner-tubes they are £ 12 + VAT at present. I think that is good to say it is a Michelin product
  24. Hi I received this PM and i thought you might be interested in it. Hi Dougal What are your recommendations for changing tubes and rim tapes? Do you recommend changing them at each tyre change baring in mind that tyre changes for us are normally forced by age considerations rather than wear. It is sort of discretionary. tyre and inner tube manufacturers say change tubes every time you change a tyre. I would also suggest that when a tyre is 10 years old it has had it. I would suggest the same rule applies for tubes. I change my tubes every time i change a tyre, baring in mi8nd with my racing car i change the rear tyres 3 times a year. I suppose we all accept that if money were no object we would change our tubes regularly. However, money predominantly is a big object. Tubes do wear. if you imagine the bit of the inner tube that presses against where the tyre sits on the rim, that is the area that wears most. So if you are happy that the tube you have isn't too old and it is a good quality one then you can inspect that area for wear (it looks like it has sort of been nibbled). you can find it because there will be a line running round the inside circumference of the tube that you can follow round starting from the valve stem. this is the most likely area to get wear. However; if in doubt fitr a new tube. It always rains when you are on the side of a road with a puncture. we encourage our customers to fit Michelin http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/classic-tyre-inner-tubes they are £ 12 + VAT at present. I think that is good to say it is a Michelin product
  25. I admit that I have been a so called expert hahahaha on the PI system since the age of 9 when my father picked up his new CP TR6 directly at the factory at Coventry in 1970. Sitting in the back of the smelly car accompanied by the whine of the Lucas pump I learnt a lot from the start.o By the age of 15 I was already tinkering, trying to cool pumps and checking injectors. By 21 I was well into vacuum gauges and fuel pressures. So While waiting for some parts to arrive I thought I would open up a metering unit I have swapped out. It was leaking fuel from the datum cover. I have always tuned the PI on the fly (I cross the Alps a lot and Colle Della Bonette at 2650m is Europe's highest and the PI splutters). I rarely choose a pass of less than 2,000m and you need to counter the rich effect of the vacuum. So for once I thought I would have a go at the unit myself instead of sending it back to the UK. As It was leaking I was convinced it was a Diaphragm. But both the unit and distributor ones are fine. So I would like to hear from someone who has overhauled a unit as I would like to try and see myself. FYI Unit had Red springs in it and already there I suspect thats thats not right. The unit always ran rich at idle even when I tuned it down and I think that is due to those springs being for the Tr6 CP which has the idle screw. I would also like to hear from someone who has an idea why fuel was leaking out of the datum cover if both the diaphragms are ok? The unit also turns over ok and hold vacuum with track movement on suck etc. If it wasnt such a pain taking the unit of and on due to the dreaded third bolt I would love to road test settings other than the top screws. The Lucas manual says to take it all off via the pedestal, but I have always been worried going that route due to end float stories. Although the manual doesnt seem concerned. Thanks Tony
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