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Found 43 results

  1. Dear all I am in a bit of a pickle here and am going in mental circles. I posted some time back that my mechanic said I needed a rear wheel bearing. As I drive, it is evidently clear this is an issue and slowly getting worse, so I put it down as a winter job. It seems now my mechanic whilst a good bloke is not skilled to do this job and I found this out when he said the work would be done using a 3 leg puller and from reading this forum, that is a no-go and you need a special tool that looks like a top hat. since then, I bought a nice Timkin bearing kit and this is now in my shed . . not doing much... So the more I read on this, the more I read of this not being a DiY job and also that I should replace also the stub axle as it is 50 yrs old and they do snap due to cracks (if that's the right term for this axle) and others suggest buying a full hub kit which I guess is an option and within the skillset of my mechanic to fit. . however having spent a pile of dosh on these top end Timkin Kits I am unsure if I buy a hub kit, what do I do with the Timkins - and I assume these Timkins are the top end of the scale in quality. Last but not least I have to use local every day mechanics and that means not a lot (any) with Triumph experience but shipping or getting parts to UK is an option. Thanks to all out there who always seem to have help for me, Rich
  2. A friend of mine who is a TRR member has a TR3A. He wishes to renew the rear wheel studs. To remove the hubs does this mean removing the halfshafts? If so, does it mean that the shafts will have to be hydraulically pressed out? Are the rear hubs cast iron and could they take a tack of weld? Tom.
  3. Hello to all. I noticed some play in my front left wheel and could see the castellated nut at the end of the stub axle was way too lose. I adjusted the hub bearing by torqueing to 10 lb ft and then releasing one flat to.insert the pin. Play was gone and wheel rotated well. However, I noticed a rumbling nose when I would be in a curve and loaded the front wheel. I disassembled the hub and could see that, while the outer bearing and stub axle looked good, the felt ring in the inner washer was loose (ie: not sticking to the metal washer), and deformed. To my surprise, when I tried to extract the inner washer, it is sticking to the hub and, therefore, I cannot extract the inner bearing. Is this normal?. I thought that the inner washer should go out easily. I attach a of the hub with the inner washer. I was thinking on replacing the felt, but it may be better to replace the washer and felt assembly. Any advice on how to extract the washer and what to replace?
  4. Hi All, I am looking for some assistance with rear end noise. While I appreciate it is a common issue in older models, its now happening on the TR6 too. When driving yesterday there was a noise from the back end of the car which grew louder fairly quickly. It gets worse as I move up through the gears. I have been under the car today and cannot find any loose bolts or see anything obvious which may be catching as the prop shaft/axle turns. There is a little bit of play on the nearside rear wheel if I rock it from top to bottom but I wouldn't say its a huge amount. The offside is solid. I have recently serviced the car and greased the UJs as I have done every other year. I would describe the sound as a "knock knock knock" as if something rotating is hitting a static object as it rotates. It disappears when I remove my foot from the throttle, which may suggest the diff but I really only have to rest my foot on the throttle (rather than actually accelerate) for it to return. I put the car on axle stands and engaged 4th to see if I could locate the source - but can't be sure - though it didn't sound as bad in this set up. However, that may just be because the car is amplifying the sound into the cabin. Reading through other posts on the forum I can only assume its the diff or the rear hubs - but I am not sure how to narrow it down beyond that. We're off on a 1700 mile trip in a few weeks, so I really need to get this fixed. As ever, any and all suggestions gratefully received. Thanks. Steve
  5. Hi all, After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint.. Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences! The question is... what option to go for.. The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic 😉 :-) Im also not keen, from what Ive read, to go for Recon hubs.. I know there are CV upgraded options, but my use doesnt seem to justify the additional expense.. I was considering new hubs (as original) or upgraded ones. And either new (as original) driveshafts, or upgraded ones.. But Im not sure if you can do a mix and match with these? E.g. upgraded Hub, with standard replacement driveshafts? Also.. what UJs would I need..? Any advice from those that have been through this before would be very halpful.. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  6. I recently brought a left hand drive TR4 back from the USA. The first job on my list is conversion to right hand drive. To this end I want to remove the original l/h metal dash. I have removed all the instruments and switches, the next job is to remove the two padded parts. As they wrap round the ends of the metal dash can they be removed before the dash itself is and, can the metal dash be removed before the dash top is removed? Thanks Graham
  7. 3 x Hubcaps from a Triumph car. These are much more domed than the normal TR design, but they do fit the early TR steel wheels. They had sidescreen TR wheel badges on them originally ( badges now gone). Need re-chroming, but very straight / undented. FOC if these sound usable to you, postage to be paid PM if interested. Regards Bob
  8. 4 x original Triumph TR wheel caps. Chrome fairly poor but the caps themselves are very straight, no dents. Sorry - No badges incl. FREE to anyone who can use them, postage to pay, estimated at under a tenner (probably). PM me if interested. Regards Bob please also see other caps offered from unknown Triumph model
  9. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 miles so I'm hoping it's not that. Got under the car this morning and the offside drive shaft has a graunch feel when I twist it holding each end. So I removed both D/S and there is play in both sets in the splines and both outer UJs show movement. I also removed the prop shaft and there is slight play in the splines and the front UJ. Do I.... 1 Drop the diff and check that inside. 2 Drain the gearbox and see if there is anything in the oil. (God I hope not, as I had that out four times last year). 3 Replace both hubs with new and new D/S from proptech (this was on my to do list anyway) 4 Is there anything I can do about the slight spline play in the prop? Appreciate your comments and recommendations as usual. (null)
  10. Alloy front hubs. What is the teams concencus on standard fitting, or get the spacer and shim mod kit or go for the bigger bearings and new upgraded stub axle?
  11. Hi all learned brethren. Please take a look at the pictures. I think you click them to make them bigger! Basically, my steering column started wobbling about from the inside. The outer casing was rock solid as was the shaft lock and where it joins in to the rubber joining section. So it has to be the bushes inside. I got them out and you'll see that they seem to be chewed up??? I have bought 2 new very expensive nylon ones (£40 odd quid). 2 Questions. 1: What causes the chewing up and is it something more sinister? Did I have a cheap bush in there? 2: Will the new nylon ones do the job? They are sold as 'uprated'? Thoughts and thanks. Paul.
  12. Hi, all, I have a silly question, I have wire wheels with 2 eared spinners and the question I have is, how tight should they be? I had to remove the front wheels (for the first time) to get to all the greasing points and had to resort to the copper side of the mallet and a block of wood to get them off. They were all properly greased and not seized in any way and the threads are not damaged as they spin off an on nicely so just #@5$ tight. Had to turn them (beat) nearly 1/2 a turn before they went loose. Don't want to damage the hub or the spinners by over tightening or to lose a wheel as that would be embarrassing (and expensive) to say the least, if not worse. Also I've seen the wooden spanner for the eared spinners are these any good? as I don't think you could get the spinners as tight as mine were (!) without breaking the wooden spanner. Are these any good really or just a toy? Any guidance much appreciated.
  13. Richard71

    Unknown Hubs

    Hello All, Started my front suspension overhaul today. After removing the hubs & discs I noticed that the hubs originally had 5 studs, four of which have then been cut flush, the stud heads welded in place then the hub drilled in 3 equispaced locations to accommodate four studs. What may these hubs have originally been intended for, any ideas? Regards, Richard.
  14. When I am driving slowly in an enclosed area such as a country lane next to a fence, I can hear a click as the wheel rotates. If I move at walking pace I can lean out and hear it clearly. The sound is bouncing back from the wall or fence On the road it is drowned out by wind, exhaust etc. It was noticeable on the showground in Yorkshire at the IWE. So it has been going on for some time. I thought that it must be the wire wheel and I have been waiting for some signs of a loose spoke or collapse of the wheel entirely. Recently it has been suggested to me that the click can be a front wheel bearing. Surely after a few thousand miles it would have changed into a major failure and collapsed. If it is a bearing it must be causing damage. Is there a bearing expert available to advise me. I am travelling to CLM 2016 with my son in law and the car absolutely must not let us down. Please advise if I should go for renewal or hope for the best. Thanks Richard & H.
  15. Hello wise forum friends.. I have a fluid leak on my TR6 calipers so its obviously re-build time. I'm lucky enough to have a car hoist and good workshop, so will doing this myself. I've seen the various posts about quality issues with a few of the brake spares components (mainly master cylinders, seal kits, etc) So my main question is who would people recommend I source good rebuild kits from please? I've searched the forum, and also reviewed the buckeye triumphs brake caliper site. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Front/Front.htm Mine is a '69 car, so I expect would have the early (poor) rubber dust caps on and 16P imperial calipers (to be confirmed as perhaps they are not the original calipers now!). From buckeye it seems the only change to upgrade to the later better dust caps that clip to both the caliper and the piston is to renew the pistons with the wider dust seal groove type. Can anyone please confirm if that is correct? Is the extra cost to upgrade to stainless steel pistons worth it? given mileage is only 2000 a year, and summer only driving (majority nice and dry) Any other tips or points noted from previous experience gratefully received. On a related note I have an annoying rattle traced to the brake servo. Its intermittent and only occurs at idle (if you crimp the vacuum line when it is happening then it stops.) The servo appears to work OK. I see there's a non return valve on the pipe connection to the servo. Is that the likely culprit or could it be internals of the servo? (at £35+ for replacement non return valve I'd like to know before committing!) I see from photo records that the PO rebuilt the servo himself back in 2008. so what the probability that an error by him could have created the vacuum related rattle? Cheers in advance, James.
  16. Hi guys, I am in the process of swapping out my old wheel bearings for new ones, the bearings themselves have been drifted in and now sit nicely in their new homes. I have now moved on to the felt seals on the inside of the hub and hit a few snags. The first snag (as my research has shown) is a very common one in that the felt is far too thick. Sorted, felt cut down and now an appropriate size. Second snag, no matter how hard I try I can not get the seal into place: The metal 'cup' on the back will not press in both with the felt in and having reluctantly pulled the felt out to get a better look. I have given a few older posts a look and most seem to be dealing with the actual felt being an issue. My problem is that the metal cup that is glued to the felt (as purchased) seems to be too large for the bore of the hub. I have now brought them to destruction and have faced that I will have to order some new ones, however I don't want the same thing to happen to those once they arrive. After some experimentation I have found that in order for them to fit, I had to cut around 3mm of the band out (I am now left with a cut in the band) in order for it to fit. Is there any possibility that the cup is too large from production, in which case I should order again and it should fit? Or is there a trick that I am missing? Thanks, Sam
  17. This is a long shot but you never know.... Anyone in Grampian/Moray happen to have a couple of spare front wheel studs they could bear to part with? I accidentally (stupidly) overtightened, not one but two studs yesterday. I have promised 2 different folk outings on Tuesday and Wednesday but, with the Bank Holiday, there doesn't seem any way of getting the parts in time. Happy to replace with new ones once the mail gets going again. Thanks in advance for any help. Ali
  18. This is a long shot but you never know.... Anyone in Grampian/Moray happen to have a couple of spare front wheel studs they could bear to part with? I accidentally (stupidly) overtightened, not one but two studs yesterday. I have promised 2 different folk outings on Tuesday and Wednesday but, with the Bank Holiday, there doesn't seem any way of getting the parts in time. Happy to replace with new ones once the mail gets going again. Thanks in advance for any help. Ali
  19. Sparkplug

    Wheel studs

    Good morning, and happy new year to all. I need to replace wheel studs and lug nuts on one disc brake. I do have a manual. but I'd like some input from those who have done it before. I am in the process of buying an arbor press, so that I can do this job, and replace my universal joints. A shop wants $25.00 US per joint here. I used to beat them out with a hammer, but I'm getting old, and have no incentive in doing that again. So, back to the wheel studs. How much pressure is needed to press them out? The presses I'm looking at are from 1ton to 3tons. What is your procedure? Since I'm getting a press, I feel confident that I can press them out. I have the studs and lug nuts already. Sincerely, George.
  20. DaveN

    U/J's

    Anyone have any experience of 'Bearmach Plc' u/j's? The company is iso9002 and they appear to supply a lot of bits for Landrovers etc. I googood the part number and they come out ridiculously cheap a far cry from the 30-40 quid that some are asking for the 'uprated' gkn variety. I must admit I pulled out mine and they were of unknown manufacture, but could not fault them at all. Even they do two 'qualities' £3.02 standard and £8.31 for oem.... That's from the long South american river sight!!
  21. Sparkplug

    Wheel studs

    For some reason, one set of my wheel lugs are hard to fit. I have cleaned the inside of the 4 wheel lugs, as well as the threads on the studs. I have also tried with lubrication, and without. Still the same. Could I get a 7/16x20 UNF die to clean the threads, and a tap to touch up the threads inside the wheel lugs, or just buy new studs and lugs? The wheel studs seem stripped, but they are not. The lug nuts go on hard, then loosen. Of course, I want it to be safe- maybe I just answered my question right there. All of the other lug nuts go on hand tight, until they touch the wheel. How hard is it to replace the studs? Any special tools? I just cleaned and lubricated the trunnion and wheel bearings on that side, which turned out really well. Sincerely, George.
  22. Dad's TR6 is up for MOT but to get it to pass we need to sort out a few issues with the vertical link. The arm that bolts onto it, for the TRE to join onto, has a loose nut/bolt - probably caused from a lot of dry steering in the garage whilst we were moving the car in and out to work on it. As far as I can see, the only way I can get to this bolt to tighten it, is to remove the brake disc, so set about doing that today and hit a snag. The car has had wire wheels from new, and has a bolt on adapter for the splines. My first thoughts to remove it were have someone hold down the foot brake and use a socket or ring spanner on the stud nuts, but you can't get enough purchase on it. It also seems like I'm not the only one who has encountered this issue as the edges of the nuts have already been worn a little. Is there a way of getting the splined hub adapter off, without butchering things or having to remove the entire vertcal link assembly from the car?
  23. Mornign, Sorry if this question is a little 'how long is a piece of string'. I run a TR5 with wires at the the moment and want to move to a set of 5.5x15 minilites for Autumn/Winter weather (bumpers will be coming off too). The wire hubs were done by PO and I haven't yet explored what lies beneath by adaptors. Could someone advise me roughly how much thread length I need to see on the studs for a good fit. Separately, how difficult is it to replace the studs if mine have been cut too short. Finally, finally, who does the correct offset - I have read several threads which all point to problems with the fronts rubbing. All the best Snowy
  24. This weekend going to do my first oil changes after acquiring the car last year. Only done about 850 miles, but as the engine oil is nearly as black as my plugs, I am not sure when they were last done. History file suggests 2012, but ????? Scanned the Forum using the really helpful 'NO 3 letter searches' facility ! Just to check. Gearbox and overdrive 1.6 litres ? - using Pentrite GB 40 are the drain plug and filling points obvious ? and can they be reached with the car flat on the floor ? Diff have read differing docs saying 0.8 and 1.1 litres does it take the GB40? or 'diff'erent (see what i did there !) Engine (with a pointless oil cooling rad tucked away behind the front valance) 5.7 litres (great that they sell it in 5l jugs !) Penrite HPR30 ditto question re access and level on floor ? Oil Filter After hitting with a hammer what I assumed to be the starter motor after my recent non starting issue - I believe I may have found a spin on oil filter. Are these all a standard size ? If not how do i tell what I need ? Steering Rack/box Already successfully done with Penrite steering lube last year when I changed the steering wheel) but will top up with whats left in the tube Greasing I have the lubrication chart that IC kindly handed out at IWE2013. I have a basic cheap grease gun so was planning on squirting grease into any nipple that seems appropriate from the chart. Is it the same grease for all - if so does it matter what grease ? If your' passing Bromley this weekend, feel free to pop in ! Yours stupidly grateful.
  25. Guys - looking for some more advice, this time re measurement of wheel widths - I know you measure to the inside face of each rim bead, but you can't do this if there is a tyre fitted - apart from removing the tyre, is there a typical depth I can use for the depth from the inside of the rim bead to the outside furthest edge of the bead - and is it normally the same measurement on the inside and outside bead? In this case I am talking about a set of steel Cooper S reverse rims ( LP918) I have with tyres on - apart from the afore mentioned identification, I can find no other marks on the wheels. Having measured the overall width with the tyre on, and taken off for the tyre overhang of the rim, I have calculated the outside to outside width of the wheel to be a knats whisker under 5 .5 inches - from what I can gather 5" R/Rims are quite rare and hence more valuable than 4.5 inch, but I don't know which I have! Anyone got any ideas - they will be for sale if anyone is interested cheers Rich
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