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Found 188 results

  1. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  2. Hello, not sure if this is where I should post, but here goes, I have an ecoair dehumidifier, DD122 Classic Mk5 that is playing up, briefly, it switches itself off after 20 minutes running on all three settings, I have checked the manual, no help, after having searched on t'internet it appears it could be a thermal cutout, anybody on here got any advice, experience, wiring diagram before I consign to the tip and buy another, it seems such a waste as the thing is not long out of warranty, cheers, Andrew
  3. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe connection. No big issue, and the replacement went really well, respecting the 'special' injection timing position ATDC of the CR engine. The car started easily and was soon running smoothly, at least for the first cautious test run of 30 miles. Then, a few miles into a higher speed run, a misfire developed :-( After limping home and checking / replacing all the usual suspects (new plugs, leads, KMI injectors, fuel pressure at 100psi....) the problem would not go away, and by cracking the injector pipes, I eventually found very little fuel at Number 5. Swapping the injectors confirmed that whatever injector was taken from a running cylinder and attached to Number 5 pipe, it would not spray in that position. The original Nr 5 injector worked well on another cylinder. So suspicion fell on the none return valves in the Banjo unions, and two new Banjos were purchased (KMI) and installed. The Nr 5 pipe was also checked for blockages and this appeared okay. The misfire still persisted! So phone call through the Metering Unit supply chain resulted in the MU being exchanged for a newly refurbished one, which was fitted with due care a couple of days ago. PERFECT :-) .... for a few miles, then the misfire returned :-( Again, fault finding proved that whatever injector (now new ones) was fitted onto Nr 5. it would not spray! But the one taken from Nr 5 works on other cylinders! Swapping the Banjo's was also tried to see whether the problem moved to Number 2 - it stayed on Number 5!!! So any gems of inspiration, or preferably someone saying they know exactly what the problem is, would be appreciated. Living in hope Phil
  4. Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
  5. Farly6

    Petrol Smell!

    I have been trying to sort out this issue for ever and getting no where fast! So I'm appealing for help. I have tried to find a discussion forum about this but cant.. so here goes. I am the owner of a late model UK CR TR6, which has standard fuel injection and a fast road cam. It has the twin tail pipe sports exhaust. The problem is that the boot is constantly smells of petrol. Its so bad that you cant really put bags in the boot. I have replaced many of the pipes around the Bosch fuel injection pump, fitted proper petrol pipes and petrol clips and the seals in the tap in the bottom of the fuel tank. So I'm wondering what I should do next, I thought it could be replace the exhaust to a Phoenix Big Bore exhaust system which will over come the exhaust fumes into the cockpit etc. or alternatives change the fuel tank. or both... Thought comments would be greatly appreciated. Am I missing something?
  6. What is the failure mode on these? My fuel and temp gauges pegged themselves ( to the high end ) today, correcting themselves after some time. What else could be the culprit? Cheers, Tom
  7. My 3A has progressively been driving me crazy with intermittent missing and poor running. Convinced it was fuel related, after making my first foray onto the forum: I pulled and flushed the tank out. - Still, even with hindsight, a good job done. Got the fuel pump rebuilt - Still a v good job done and absolute pleasure to make acquaintance of such a knowledgable Gentleman; Dave Davis. Fiddled and fiddled around with the carbs - Not such a good job done, if anything suspect Ive made them worse.. But, again, got some really knowledgable help via the forum I pulled out and pulled out the plugs I found it really fiddly to fiddle with the ignition switch wiring under the dash I fiddled with coil, points, leads, I replaced condenser - All the above frustratingly only giving marginal if any gains... When, at my wits end with the car that had always proved so rugged and reliable over the 40+ years Ive had her, I checked under some insulation tape I temporarily put on the main and original wiring loom (circa 30 years ago) where the feed comes off to the coil and found broken open wire with two strands (one when vibrating) holding on
  8. Now, where exactly does it plug in.....? - No rude answers thank you! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Fault-reset-Scanner-for-TRIUMPH-TR4-6/173367546376?hash=item285d82d208:g:IRQAAOSw5P9bJR5d
  9. Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaft arm to top hole but no real difference. As I write this, we decided to order new master & slave cylinders to complete the overhaul, but can anyone give me an opinion on what the trouble might be? Hoping desperately that the transmission doesn't need to come out again. As an extra from a previous post, does the assembly pictured indicate the TT1032 rear engine seal is fitted? I also enc pic of the pedal and cotter pin which has grooved in a mere 3 years or so. Best wishes Willie
  10. Hello Again, tackling the next problem now, tracked my air leak down to the interface between inlet manifold and head, I used Racetorations 'high specification competition gasket' but it is not sealing, I am using standard 4A exhaust manifold and Bastuk Weber inlet manifolds, the only discrepancy is about 50 thou difference between the thickness of the two clamping points, will that affect the clamping? and can I use a gasket cement to assist, as always, many thanks for the help, cheers, Andrew
  11. Hi Troops - thank you Roger for earlier advice re wheel boxes, delved deeper and the wheel boxes appear to be in quite good condition, checked back through the car bills and found a receipt from '87 for 2 new ones, bearing in mind the car is rarely driven in rain the wheel boxes have been hardly used. The problem with drivers side wiper is the over large hole in the bodywork that the the wheel box comes through. I attach a photo. She is in my garage with dashboard out, anyone else had this problem? any thoughts on an easy repair? The other wiper is fine Would appreciate your feedback Christine PS got new dashtop from TR Shop - it really is very good, I've been recommended to get new crash pads now but I seem to remember reading that they're obsolete? Got a new switch plinth but I'd rather refurb the existing if that's possible?
  12. Hello All, one step forward, two steps back, a bit of a strange one, car carries on running after the ignition is switched off when the engine is racing (another problem), pulling the ignition lead from the coil stops it so for some reason, yet to be determined, the coil is being energized. The ignition switch is fine, I have tested a dozen times with my continuity tester and no signs of any issues. After mulling over my wiring diagram the only source of power I can see is from the alternator when the car is running, ie, alternator - ignition light - ignition switch contact/same contact to coil, could it be at low revs/low output will not bypass the ignition light so close that route whereas high revs/high output will get past the ignition light (it was lit, although dimly) when the ignition was switched off. As always, cheers, Andrew
  13. In a FB thread for the Tr5ers was discussing bad suppliers and bad parts. Not that I am in need right now but was wondering if there is maybe a list of worst repro parts ? Would be good to know the danger areas. Certainly would keep cowboys on the hop but ...No need to necessarily name names just maybe know what needs consideration as you go? What are the parts where we are most at risk? Tony
  14. Yesterday my TR6 failed it's MOT Because when the brake lights (which are LED ) were applied the front side lights also came on. The garage replaced my LED bulbs with standard filament ones the fault went away. Can anybody explain this or hopefully suggest how I can put the LED bulbs back and prevent the same thing happening. John
  15. I removed my engine fan and now there is a lot of noise, it was present before but not as noticeable as it is now. I had thought that this was the water pump, this has been replaced, it's not alternator as I've had two different units on today and no difference. Thoughts please? Noise.mov
  16. Willie


    Hi Everyone. A seasonal conundrum - I can't get any heat out of the heater!! Scuttle vent lid OPEN, heater core backflushed and found to have a healthy water flow. New heater control valve fitted. Both heater hoses hot during test and heater box also pleasantly warm to the touch. Blower fan aking a blower noise so assumed to be working [negative discharge on voltmeter also suggesting it is running]. I assume the airduct control cable is pushed in fully to divert all airflow to the screen vent outlets? Only thing missing appears to be hot air!! HELP!! Best wishes Willie
  17. Gents, since a few weeks i'm dealing with strange electrical gremlins: intermittent spark failure which i though being the coil, then condenser, then points, then leads, then rotor arm, etc... Ignition would stop working for a few hours then start again. When i'll put a test lamp on the (+) of the coil...the electric fan would kick in... Then i tried installing a 2-speed wiper motor supplied by AlanT and I got 12 V on both green-brown and green-red with the green connected to 12 V.... Then today, few bangs-black-smoke-bang and the engine died on the highway. Two cops came to rescue, 1 holding the spanners and the other one holding an umbrella while i was swapping the coil. And it cranked ok and off i went until home, no problem. Stopped in the drive and few hours after I tried to crank again... no way to get the engine to fire, no sparks. Swapped the coil again, checked the leads, points, etc... No sparks at the plugs. Per accident I finally discovered something strange: When i connect one end of the test lamp on the battery earth terminal (-), undo the quick disconnect and touch the other end of the lamp on any earth of the body (-) the bulb will set off... so that means that the car body is (+) and (-) whenever it feels like it !!! (see pic) Obviously there's something amiss. I'm nearly positive these problems have one single cause: resistance or short somewhere.... Calling for more grey cells please....
  18. In preparation for the arrival of a 123Ignition Tune+ i decided to take ignition advance readings from my car as a starting point. I got readings using a Gunsons Advanced timing light of : Tickover, about 800 revs, 16 btdc 1000 17 1500 18 2000 22 2500 26 3000 28 3500 30 4000 36 I then backed the ignition off to 12 btdc and the idle slowed and was rougher, engine much happier at 16, and no pinking under load at any revs. This doesnt seem quite right, as even though my engine is modified, i dont have full details but +60 forged pistons and possibly a 777 cam ( 145 bhp at the wheels at enginuity) 16 degrees at idle seems too advanced. Possibilities 1, crank damper pulley has slipped, do they really do this and if so by only 4 degrees?? 2, timing light incorrect, but i doubt its wrong in the basic mode with no advance dialled in? I guess i need to measure tdc, but from what i read on the forum it wont be easy to get an accurate reading? Thoughts please! I plan to setup the 123 with the same curve as the existing dist to get started, then probably a proper rolling road tune to get the best out of it :-) Steve
  19. Hi, I am looking for some help and this is my first foray into the TR Register Forum. My TR6 seems to be running lumpy/hesitant from idle up to around 2.5k revs. Throttle response doesn't seem to be as crisp as it was before. The car was running fine, sat for maybe 4/6 weeks without a proper drive out then developed this problem. Higher up the rev range it seems to sound okay. I have a coolant leak from somewhere front nearside which I think may be the top hose but thats a seperate issue which should be easily found/fixed and possibly unrelated to the above. I am new to the classic car world and would very much appreciate some help and advice. Also if someone has experienced a similar problem. Prior to me inheriting the car off my grandfather he had mentioned the plugs get quite sooty upon inspection at MoT. I am very much into cars/classics but I am ashamed to say that my technical knowledge is lacking and didn't get enough time with my grandfather to learn about the mechanical side. Bodywork I am good with as that was his trade. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  20. The front engine block sump bolt thread on TR2-4 is a textbook source for oil leak. Forget the washer in refitting the sump bolt or try putting a longer bolt if the thread is damaged and the aluminum block will crack giving way to oil leak "from the sump". This adds up to the long list of potential leaks from the engine block.
  21. As the title says, I have a nasty "bag of nuts and bolts" rattle at the front of the engine somewhere. My car is a TR2, original engine. No mechanical fan as there is no room with R&P steering, so I have a puller electric fan on the inside of the radiator. I've checked the rocker arm clearances, put four or five pumps of grease into the water pump, tensioned the fan belt a bit in case the cause was any of those. My next thoughts were to take the fan belt off and run the engine for a short while to eliminate the dynamo and water pump as sources of the noise. I have a feeling it may be the cam drive chain tensioner, but of course that is a bit of a bugger to get to. Any one any thoughts, advice?
  22. I admit that I have been a so called expert hahahaha on the PI system since the age of 9 when my father picked up his new CP TR6 directly at the factory at Coventry in 1970. Sitting in the back of the smelly car accompanied by the whine of the Lucas pump I learnt a lot from the start.o By the age of 15 I was already tinkering, trying to cool pumps and checking injectors. By 21 I was well into vacuum gauges and fuel pressures. So While waiting for some parts to arrive I thought I would open up a metering unit I have swapped out. It was leaking fuel from the datum cover. I have always tuned the PI on the fly (I cross the Alps a lot and Colle Della Bonette at 2650m is Europe's highest and the PI splutters). I rarely choose a pass of less than 2,000m and you need to counter the rich effect of the vacuum. So for once I thought I would have a go at the unit myself instead of sending it back to the UK. As It was leaking I was convinced it was a Diaphragm. But both the unit and distributor ones are fine. So I would like to hear from someone who has overhauled a unit as I would like to try and see myself. FYI Unit had Red springs in it and already there I suspect thats thats not right. The unit always ran rich at idle even when I tuned it down and I think that is due to those springs being for the Tr6 CP which has the idle screw. I would also like to hear from someone who has an idea why fuel was leaking out of the datum cover if both the diaphragms are ok? The unit also turns over ok and hold vacuum with track movement on suck etc. If it wasnt such a pain taking the unit of and on due to the dreaded third bolt I would love to road test settings other than the top screws. The Lucas manual says to take it all off via the pedestal, but I have always been worried going that route due to end float stories. Although the manual doesnt seem concerned. Thanks Tony
  23. Chris Hubball, a Group leader with a TR4, has a problem with the Revington Hazard Warning kit which he bought a long time ago and is attempting to fit to his TR4. He has described the problem thus: My car is a TR4 I purchased a Hazard Warning kit from Revington a long time a go but it came with no instructions on querying this I was told their stock had no instructions. so using the workshop manual wiring diagram and your article in TR Action No 132 I am attempting to fit it. My problem is the 6 wires on my unit differ in colour from those in your article, I have a purple wire and a black wire which I know are feed and earth, then I have 2 wires which are green and purple, 1 wire which is green and white and 1 wire which is green. My question being, which wire do I connect to where. Some 20 years ago I fitted a Lucas after-market kit, as I described in TR Action 132. The Lucas unit is a simple, relay-operated device. Has anyone a copy of Revington's instructions for the kit? If so, please could they send me a copy (email address on page 82 of TR Action) so that I may assist Chris. Ian Cornish
  24. Some advice required from the hive-mind please… Last weekend, I had a trouble-free 130 mile round trip in my ’63 TR4. Arriving home, I parked on my drive and went to fetch the garage keys. When I returned, the car wouldn’t start. The red ignition light dimmed when I turned the key but the only other response I could get was a loud clicking sound. I intend to investigate fully at the weekend but am I right to assume it’s probably starter motor related? If so, I imagine it’s going to be an ‘interesting experience’ removing it because I have an original unit squeezed in tightly next to a Phoenix manifold (pic below). There’s only about 12mm between the starter motor and manifold and so horizontal movement will be limited. How much diagonal/vertical movement the unit will have remains to be seen. I’ll obviously check/clean all the electrical connections first but is there anything else I can try before I attempt to remove it? A friend suggested there might be a square shaft protruding from the end onto which I can attach a spanner to free it off. However, mine is covered by a loose fitting cap and there’s not enough space to remove it. The cap is quite brittle and so I could probably destroy it and remove it if it helped? Unless you know of any other clever tricks, is there a way to remove the starter motor without taking carbs/manifold off? We have such fun with our cars don’t we? Thanks in advance! Glenn
  25. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
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