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  1. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds I
  2. I am about to remove the engine from my TR3a to do some work on it. (among other issues fix an oil leak(s?) from the back end). I have a Clarke engine stand similar to the one in the attached picture with a mounting head as shown in the photo. Whenever I have used it in the past I have attached the engine to the stand using some studs that I have threaded to fit the back of the engine but I have always been extremely wary of their tensile strength. Does anyone on here have a clever means of fixing the engine that is a bit more robust? I have plenty of offcuts of angle iron and
  3. Hello, as the title says, any tips or clues? Engine now completely stripped down........apart from the dowel pins, thankyou, Andrew
  4. Anyone know what was used to make TR 4 cylinder cranks? was it EN 16 or 24 or what I ask because my original crank that I have had for 30 years all wrapped up in oily paper appears to be bent? With the main bearings in both ends and the center main bearingless (ie bearings taken out) the center main on the crank has a 5thou run out on a DTI I want to get it bent straight but that depends on the material it s made of Any one help on the metal of the crank or know abody to straighten it It only has to move 2.5 thou Thanks in advance for any help
  5. Hello All, getting ready to lift the engine out and I wonder if anyone has a photo of the arrangement using the lifting eyes, I have worked out how the front one fits but the rear one looks a little odd, it is the correct one that was supplied but not fitted when I bought the car, cheers, Andrew
  6. I am about to start the re-assembly of my TR3a engine. As part of the work I had the machine shop remove the ally core plugs at each end of the oil gallery so that they could give it a good clean. So my question is, what is the recommended procedure for replacing these items? Do I cut a slot in one end and screw them in as tight as possible with a large screwdriver before removing any outstanding stub with an angle grinder? And what sealant should I use? I have JB weld, Araldite rapid epoxy, Loctite 270, Wellseal and Heldtite. I don't want there to be any possibility of a lea
  7. OK, this is one of those 'hunt the noise' exercises. For a while, I have experienced a random clunk coming from the offside front of the 3A when stopping or pulling away. Not on every occasion my any means, but quite distinct when it happens and worse since my recent tour. I have R&P steering from an known source but no ARB. So, what can I check / remedy in case something has just loosened (rather than worn) before simply handing the car over to the engineers? Many thanks. Miles
  8. Hello, what is the weight of a 4 pot engine, cast head, less ancillaries, thanks you, Andrew
  9. It’s time to get some miles on this thing. Three years, lots of grief,laughs,heart ache,smiles. Many thanks to all those special people for there help you know who you are Right here goes nothing Al
  10. Having got my TR3a engine running as smoothly as it has ever done, I now have a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. Initially, I thought it was coming from the rocker cover but although that was part of the problem it has now been fixed and the oil leak persists. Yesterday, I put the car up on ramps so that I could take a good look underneath and discovered a steady drip fom the bottom of the bellhousing when the engine is running. It's definitely engine oil and stops when I turn the engine off. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the rear of the crank machined to take a
  11. All there have been a couple of threads regarding engine oil filters recently and some cross references have been supplied. Where cross referenced filters have been used and shown to work, then there is no issue, however; I was in the process of putting together a usable cross reference, based on filters that can be relied on. I have added the recently supplied information and took about 15 minutes on the web to extend the spreadsheet based on information supplied by just filter suppliers. My message is; Please do not take any information regarding compatibility at face value In
  12. Hello All, planning this winters project and a long overdue engine rebuild is on the cards, to cure oil leaks and cure blue smoke, apart from removing and rebuilding the engine is there a recommended schedule of works to go through prior to rebuild, ie crack test crank shaft, balance moving parts etc, I wouldn't want to miss what could be a crucial step, thanks in advance, Andrew
  13. Got a weird droning while driving about today and on lifting bonnet the cause was obvious. No rocker cover cap. Dunno why it went walkabout, Rocker cover is alloy one, Don't know supplier. If anybody can identify it and/or suggest where I could get a replacement that would be grand! (Its the 4 cylinder) Mike
  14. Hi all, Do you have access to an engine simulator package that you'd be willing to use to answer some questions I have? I'd like to understand more about the effect of different types of cam profile and timing on the TR6 engine, and I really liked the visualisations on HotTR6's page. Simply, I'd like to know what would happen if you start with a CP cam, and open the lobe centres a few degrees (up to 5). Then play with advancing/retarding the cam a few degrees (-8 to +8). I'm not too concerned about the actual torque & power figures (far too much else will affect those), but rathe
  15. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to
  16. Team, This is my first posting although I've used the forum many times in the past for technical searches so appreciate all the information provided. I'm based in Aberdeen and have a 1972 TVR 2500M (UDB 744K) which I've had since 1989. As you will be aware, the car is based on a TR6. It's a long story but based on work and family commitments, its been garaged for more than 20 years with a seized engine. I've now retired and started a restoration. I'm not a mechanic but have a electromechanical background so I'm OK at using the forums and TR manuals. I've rebuilt the engine (num
  17. Hi Folks, what are the pro's and con's of painting the internal surfaces of the 4 pot water jacket and external surface of the liners. Will this stop/reduce rusting? Is there a benefit.? What is the best paint/process for the job I've not done this in the past but 'm sure somebody has. Roger
  18. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered
  19. Hi baught a tr3b engine to try and turn it a fast road, baughtt the engine for a good price as there was no history , I was taking a bit of a chance, It has turned out well the head has been machined into stage 3 the engine is of to saunders road next week for balancing and crack detection When I broke the engine down this was the camshaft that was fitted it looks new to me, what do you think Markings on are Mc21434 and 301466 and the letter H
  20. Hi looking for reasurance, with the number on the conrod bearing Stamped on the bearing is the part no , 117590 if it was oversize would it have a slash after the part no then the fig, ie 117590/ 10 I am doing a fast road engine should I think about upgraded conrods Thank you pink
  21. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so
  22. Hi All I rebuilt my TR4A engine introducing a lip seal at the rear main and all went well apart from a persistent tink tink tink So I went in search of the cause : looking first at rocker clearance, could a rocker be touching the rocker cover The noise started with the engine and was more noticeable at low revs when the engine made less noise Anyway with covid-19 restrictions I went the whole hog and took the engine and box out and strip the thing down again The lip seal was still there, the camshaft was smooth and not clicking , the cam followers and cam shaft were un
  23. Slowly doing bits and pieces on the rebuild of my 5 and went to fit the fan belt yesterday. I can't fit the belt between the bottom pulley and the steering rack. If I support the sump on a jack and block, loosen gearbox and engine mountings will I be able to shift the block back a couple of millimetres to get sufficient space. ...or am I missing something else. Many thanks as always, Tim
  24. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
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