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Found 9 results

  1. .... next question! The 2 rocker switches on the car, ie wipers and washers do work but sound a bit arthritic and as if they are likely to give up the ghost soon. Can these be dismantled and cleaned, or squirted with anything. Any ideas gratefully received! Thanks, Tim
  2. I have my son's VW Passat. I will be fitting the new battery tomorrow. If I disconnect the existing will I lose any of the settings, mileage etc. I could run two cables from the new battery to the car before disconnecting the old battery, so that the supply is constant I am hoping that it as simple as fitting a new battery to my 3A Any advice would be helpful. Richard & B.
  3. Now that I am at the reassembly stage of my 5 project I thought that the original ring binder parts catalogue may be useful as a definitive guide for parts identification if needed, as i assumed that this is what the Moss book was based on. First occasion was yesterday when i found a small bracket in with my bag of dash switches and rheostat bezels. Looked in the original parts book and there was no sign of the bracket at all. Looked in the Moss catalogue and there it was, item 78, part number 621794. So just to check I looked up the part number in the numerical index in the original list and still no mention! Is this an instance when the repro is better than the original? Tim
  4. Hi All I have been (very slowly) putting a new loom into My TR6 (Autosparks). I cut all the old connectors off the old loom so I knew what wire went were. I have checked most of the wires to make sure that one end is connected where I expect the other end to be. Then I've checked it again. And again. So, my questions to all who may know - is there anything I should be doing before I reconnect the battery? Are there any tests I can do (bearing in mind I'm not an electrician!) to make sure I have it all correct? Also - I am thinking of putting an electric fan in and spot lamps (I had the wiring done). Where do people put the switches (for lamps and over ride of fan)? Any help of advice welcome. Thanks in anticipation. Rog
  5. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  6. Hello All, I need a new battery isolator switch as my original (proper Lucas) one has developed a fault. I have never heard a good word said about Lucas (Green Box) switches of any sort and can confirm that I’ve had reliability problems with them myself. I’ve recently noticed a lot of “Durite” items on the market and wondered if they were any better. I believe Durite is an ancient name, but is it now just a case of the name being licensed out, like Lucas, to anyone who pays the fee? Interested to hear comments. (I’d like to hear that they are made in the back streets of Birmingham, by old men wearing cow-gowns, but I doubt that is the case.) Charlie.
  7. Dear members/owners Can anyone help me identify this black/white wire on the left side of engine bay? Picture attached. It has a round female end and is positive. Ideas I have are brake oil after looking at the wiring diagram but I cant see any plugs for that anywhere. Thanks Richard
  8. My TR6 has got the red rear side markers and are wired in to come on when the lights are on, so far so good. I want to change to amber as I think it looks better with the light wrapping round the rear body and flows better. So my options are keep the illumination but now in amber, remove the bulbs and have no side marker, or hook them into the indicator circuit (would this slow them down too much? ) Any opinions and thoughts please. Gareth
  9. A friend recently had (a lot of) smoke from under the dash and was smart and quick enough to disconnect the battery before anything actually caught fire. (N.B. This was done quickly as he has a screw off earth islolator, very fortunate! and his bonnet catch was not near the source of the smoke). He is now fitting a new front loom. This post is to question why Joseph Lucas decided NOT to put a fuse in the always ON brown wire (and subsequently the ignition switched white wire). I believe it was because in the early days engineers did not have confidence in fuse holders so they were avoided for important circuits. The problem is that if a brown wire is shorted to earth that wire from that point back to the Battery will become red hot and melt its insulation, melting the insulation of adjacent wires in the loom. If not disconnected from the battery fire will ensue. Does anyone have a logical argument why we should not fit fuses in the brown wire circuits as close to the battery as possible. My 74 TR6 CR has 4 brown wires going under the dashboard. I have never had a fuse holder fail and if one of the brown wire fuses should blow and the car stops the alternative would have been smoke from under the dashboard. Am I wrong?
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