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Found 63 results

  1. Hi I dont use the forum very much, so please bear with me...... My '4 is in very poor shape but I'd like to get it mobile in order to move it under its own steam. Everything was working until a couple of years ago and It has sat awaiting my time, slowly deteriorating. The clutch hydraulics gave out around last December when I got in it to unstick the clutch. Clutch was ok previously. Yesterday I had a go at it, and, owing to lack of brake fuild, though I'd try to fill the clutch master with shock oil. Its quite light & pours easily. To my surprise I got a good pedal after a few pumps, but the clutch was very stiff.I remembered from the distant past that this is probably the flexible pipe collapsing. Anyhow, to prove my point I pulled out the plugs, squirted oil down the bores & spun the engine over. To my surprise, the engine spins when in gear & my foot off the clutch pedal. I left it 24 hours & stll the same result. I havent got under the car to check the linkage (its a bit awkward where it is) - but any clues? regards, Adrian
  2. Today took out the car for a New Year's drive, but after an hour had to return: it became increasingly difficult to change gears, and on the return even impossible to get into second, or at stand still into first gear without the motor stalling or grinding noises from the gearbox. The clutch pedal feels completely soft, and increasingly had to push the pedal deeper and deeper until no uncoupling even occured. Back home put the car on the bridge and pictures added below: the connection between the hydraulics of the clutch and the gearbox clutch lever seems broken; the rod is loose inside the hydraulic "pump" (?). Is that the one that needs exchanged? Is this a common failure? We bought the 1964 (overdrive) TR4 in 2016, averaging a few thousand km annually, always very softly driven. Any recommendations about this issue (sorry, I searched the forum with "clutch" and "gearbox" search words, but thousands of unrelated posts appear)? Thanks for your replies! Greetings and Happy New Year! Erik
  3. Something strange going on and I cant quite fathom it. Doing a fairly long Rally in a months time, so just going round and fettling as necessary. Clutch free play was on the list as the pickup point seemed to have risen.... Free play adjusted, to 0.079" and then after a quick drive I have an inch of very soft pedal at the top of the stroke? Checked the movement of the actuating arm was 5/8" and all good. Does not appear to be a broken pin in the cross shaft. Bleed the system with difficulty, yes the bleed nipple is at the top of the S/C. Nice firm pedal at 09.30 yesterday morning. Just gone out to check and the pedal has gone soft for the first depression....... No signs of fluid leaks on S/C Removed the rubber dust cap from the M/C and their is a red gunge around the end of the push rod and the circlip...grease from new? Certainly not crystalline structure that I used to associate with leaking DOT4 Any thoughts welcome. Iain
  4. I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
  5. Morning. With the engine running and car stationary there is a grumbling from the gearbox/clutch. Push the clutch in and the noise stops. Release the clutch and it starts again. I can describe the noise as sounding like rotating metal against metal with a light touch. Any thoughts? Best. Paul.
  6. After lavishing money, time and effort on my 1972 TR6 this year in a number of areas. Famously eliminating my age old fuel smell problem and more significantly cash spent on my 132k miles engine to breathe new life into it. As well the gear box being extracted for primarily a noisy first gear, the lay shaft bearing had landed up in the overdrive with no additional damage thank goodness. All back together with a new clutch to suit. Whilst fettling with the cars induction over the past week or so to get things just right, I noticed the clutch master cylinder had dropped to almost empty, however on filling it up I noted I hadn't lost prime and clutch activation. (The garage hadn't needed to disturb the clutch hydraulics.) The symptoms were loss of fluid from the slave cylinder under the car, the colour of the fluid on the floor was a dirty black colour. Also the bottom of the master cylinder was full of black 'mush'. which I removed as best I could. I fitted a new slave cylinder yesterday and relocated the linkage to the top hole on the activation lever. With the help of my son I have bled the system numerous times (Dot 4) through a rubber tube into a flooded jar, with no evidence of air bubbling through, and although the pedal feels fine I cannot engage gear. On starting the car in gear with the clutch disengaged there is slight clutch drag, but the car cant be driven. I haven't measured the throw of the slave assembly pin, but it looks like about 15 mm. There is no evidence of leakage from the master cylinder, however removing the rubber gaiter, the piston is fouled with black residue. I'm beginning to think the master cylinder given the evidence above is now problematic. I'd love to hear the readers views on this experience. Best Regards Trevor Hughes
  7. TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13/16” (2.0mm) towards the centre from the outer edge (where it has greatest affect on inertia), and so the cover plate is mounted on pillars and fixed with Allen screws. SOLD 6) TR4 clutch cover plate (to fit the flywheel). SOLD 7) Rear springs for TR2/3/4 – no information on these as I cannot remember how/when I acquired them! SOLD 8) Steering rack, probably from TR7, but lacks the arm on one side. To be collected from Aldbury, near Tring (Herts). I don’t want lots of cash, I just want to be rid of the parts to TR people who could make use of them, not into the skip at the dump! PM me if interested. Ian Cornish
  8. Hi All, I am hoping someone will pick this request up and confirm a point of confusion before my TR4 gets the gearbox overhaul completed. WHICH WAY ROUND DOES THE CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING GO? Does the larger diameter flat face point outwards from the bellhousing as the original TR4 Workshop Manual illustrates? That is how the bearing is set currently, but in the next couple of hours we will either commit to that or have to open the assembly up and swap it round. I hope this reaches an authority on the subject in time!! Best wishes Willie
  9. Hi All Just but the gearbox back in after a rebuild and new clutch.I refitted the clutch slave cylinder and was fitting the rod to the middle hole on the drop arm when I realised it was loose.It wasnt until I crawled out from under the car that I could see that the weld had broken between the arm and the shaft. I realise that I will need to reweld this however how do I make sure the arm is in the right position in relation to the shaft.I was assuming it should be slightly back from vertical, any thoughts? Thanks Cameron
  10. I have a TR3a with a saloon gearbox and overdrive and am using a T2000 clutch which is only 8.5" diameter. Does anyone know if there is a 9" diameter clutch available that will fit the 1" diameter /10 no. splines of the Triumph saloon gearbox? As far as I can determine form the internet, most 9 inch clutches with 10 splines have a 1 1/8" diameter centre. Rgds Ian
  11. I've renewed everything on my brake and clutch systems. New discs, calipers, copper brake pipes and flexible s/s pipes. Which brake fluid should I use? When I fitted 'Coopercraft' four cylinder front brake calipers to my 1965 'E'-type Jaguar I was instructed NOT to use Silicon brake fluid ~ Why??? Tom.
  12. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matter of course. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ I also found a brake and clutch refurbishing company in Stourport on Severn. This company specialises in classic car brake components and supplies some of the big name suppliers who drop pallet loads of units off and have them refurbed in batches. However they are still happy to do one-offs for enthusiasts who contact them. I took a set of Princess calipers, a set of TR8 calipers and a Sherpa master cylinder for refurbishing. Stainless steel sleeves are used in the calipers, new seals as you'd expect and they come back in a gold finish. www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/
  13. Hi All When I acquired by CR series TR6 it was in boxes. I have slowly started to sort out what I have and what I don't. There was no clutch at all. I have just purchased a second hand Laycock clutch cover from my local Vintage car club. Can anyone advise if a Borg and Beck clutch plate can be used as I don't have one that can be sent away for exchange. The clutch plate would be a 8.5x 10 x1.25 What are the differences between the two - would I be able to find a suitable aftermarket one as no one seems to have even a second hand one. Also a bit more difficult being on the other side of the world. I could not find anything in other threads on this. Regards Brian
  14. Just to add to the list of clutch woes that sometimes afflict us, here's a couple more. Exhibit 1 is the clutch cover out of my daily driver Hurricane. This suddenly only gave me half a clutch one day. It felt just like the cross-shaft pin had broken, except it's a Spitfire 1300 which doesn't have a cross-shaft. If you look closely, you can see that the diaphragm spring has sheared. So having fixed that, I got back to putting the TR back together. When I took the engine out, the clutch was fine so didn't really look too closely. Now when I come to replace it I see that the clutch plate is broken. Shouldn't that have 6 rivets, not 3 anyway? Never seen either of these before, so thought it worth sharing. Jerry.
  15. Hi All With a lot of help from a fellow club member,we removed the gearbox from my 1971 Tr 6 today. The reason for removing the box was because the drive started slipping, however it wasn't clear if it was the clutch or the overdrive (A Type). Either way the box had to come out. The clutch was fitted on 27th of April 1993 and has covered approx 95,000 miles. I acquired the car 4 years later and removed the engine and gearbox to replace the ring gear on the flywheel. I decided at the time to leave the clutch and only replaced the fork pin with a new hardened one. This decision has been vindicated as its been fine over all that time, but what to do now. What do you all think of the condition of the clutch, and would my best plan be to get it reconditioned, I would like to keep the Laycock cover .I can't see any reason for the drive slip from the clutch,the shaft , fork and pin are fine, any thoughts Thanks Cameron
  16. At the week end I was able to borrow a 4 post lift. It has been puzzling me for many years that I have trouble with the slave cylinder. The ST manual shows the cylinder mounted on the rear side of the bracket and the lowest hole used for the connection. The Moss parts book says use the middle hole. I know some of the contributors to the parts book and they do not get things wrong. If I use the middle hole the rod is at an angle and wears out the slave on one side only, and then it leaks. I noticed in the parts book that there were two numbers for the bracket. 1 x Lockheed and 1 x Girling. I ordered a new one for the Girling set up which I have. After removing the one on the car it was immediately clear that I had the Lockheed one fitted for many years with the slave on the wrong side. I changed it over and the actuating rod is now in the middle hole and straight. My manual of course shows the early layout for the TR2 and that explains the contradiction with Moss. The manual of course is for the TR2 with an additional part at the back for the TR3. It is a huge relief to know that I have got it correct . Don't ask how many years it has been wrong because it is very embarrassing. Why did it take so long to discover the answer. Richard & H.
  17. This summer, I had the gearbox fully overhauled and a new clutch plate. I am now able to select first and reverse with no grinding noise. The change is not as smooth as i had hoped. I once drove TS2 and the gear change was very smooth. I want mine to be the same. I have a new cross shaft , new thrust bearing and new bearing carrier, and new cover that I had in store for 20 years. It is still chunky changing gear and we have covered only 300 miles. What parts control the smooth change that i am looking for? I have extended the slave pushrod to make it longer in case the clutch was not working well. The longer push rod has not ,made any difference. Will it be allowing damage to the drive plate? What shall I do now ? Thanks Richard & H.
  18. Happy new year all.. Few weeks ago i replaced my clutch slave cylinder and flexi pipe, then bought the gunson kit.. Noticed when bleeding the copper pipe wasnt sealing so replaced that..then put new rubbers in clutch master cylinder.. Bleed with gunson kit using 10psi from spare tyre, and got some air out system but thats it.. And there isnt even a bit of clutch pedal.. Any ideas? Thanks in advanced grant.
  19. I can not select reverse without crashing the gearbox on my 3A I have spoken to the gearbox specialist in the back cover of TRaction. He says that it must be the clutch. After all my troubles with the slave cylinder over the summer I am sure that the push rod is correctly adjusted. My gear knob will not lift up when I select reverse. Could this be the problem? Why does it have to lift anyway? The release bearing is making a low grumble and will be replaced this winter. Any advice welcome. Thanks, Richard & H.
  20. Gents I have a CSC (minus seriously knackered seals) available, should anyone want to reseal it. It is in reasonable nick, I think . . . . . I have just fitted a replacement (easier than doing the reseal) Going for the cost of postage, which is about four quid I think. If you want to collect it from Chelmsford, that's fine.
  21. I have been having a lot of clutch problems. Today I tried to fit a new flexible hose. It was a sunny afternoon and there was some spare time. So I carefully checked it against the existing. There is an adaptor at each end of the stainless pipe. These adaptors are not identical. There is one long one and one short. If you connect the short end to the slave cylinder it does not reach far enough inside to contact the seat inside. This is wher my existing leak is coming from. If you use the long end it tightens down satisfactorily. However the short end is not long enough to fit through the bracket with a thin holding nut, and leave enough thread so that the connection is properly made with the internal seat at this end. After a break for a quick drink, it seemed sensible to use the two long adaptors. When fitting them to the s/s tube I used some loctite thread sealer. But no thread sealer was used on the copper pipe or slave cylinder. It is now fitted and I hope that I have done the correct modification.Can any one explain why they are made like this? After assembling the push rod into my refurbished old slave cylinder it became clear that the rod was at least 1/2 " too long. This must be why the clutch was slipping. I was ready to have the engine out and replace the oil seal on the rear of the crankshaft. Tomorrow when I fill up with DOT4 we will find out. Let me know what you think. Thanks Richard & H.
  22. I am planning to fit the new clutch to my 3A. This will mean the gearbox out and if the rear seal on the crankshaft is leaking the sump will have to come off. How can I support the rear of the engine so that the work can be done standing up using a 4 post lift. There is a built in lifting eye at the front but nothing at the back. Thanks Richard & H.
  23. Has anyone got advice on converting a TR3A spring clutch to TR4 diaphragm. I know the flywheel and extension will need machining. Is it worth it in terms of a lighter and more reliable clutch operation?
  24. I have some slipping clutch problems. I also have the cylinders being overhauled by Past Parts. Once I have the hydraulics sorted out I will have the gearbox out. In my garage I have been saving this 3 part clutch kit for many years. This may be the time to use it. The number is Borg and Beck 45693/41 size 9 " I have two questions Is this the correct part for my 58 TR3A There is some rust on the surface of the cover plate which contacts the clutch lining. I have sanded it off but there are some very small corrosive marks. If this makes a difference to the long term life of the clutch lining shall I have it machined down by 10 thou.? Maybe this will cause more problems. If this old stock is not correct please advise on the best kit to buy. Thanks Richard & H.
  25. A great trip to Lincoln and an excellent show. It was interesting to meet some Forum members. I was trying to prepare the car for July and did not have enough time. At the last week my clutch pedal went straight to the floor after a long period of non use. After fitting a repair kit to the slave I was able to complete the return trip to Le Mans. The following week end I set off for Lincoln and the gear change was a bit clumsy at morning at start up. On the Sunday morning at Lincoln the pedal was again down to the floor. A great team fitted a new slave cylinder at the showground and the pedal was normal. But at leaving time on Monday morning it was failing again and I had to limp home at 40 mph with no stops. I have connected the push rod to the lowest hole on the shaft because the cylinder was worn on one side only because of the angle of the push rod when in the middle hole. At the lower hole it lines up much better but of course this will alter the pedal movement The symptoms seem to vary and I am wondering if my diagnosis is wrong and the clevis pin on the main shaft has finally given way. It does seem to vary as we travel. At the current adjustment the gears are hard to select and the clutch slips at over 40 mph... It was no problem at all across France. Maybe I should change the master cylinder before taking out the gear box. I don't want the car off the road again this summer. Please advise, Richard & H. ( too hot for his fur coat today) Thanks
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