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Found 507 results

  1. HI All, looking in to buying myself a Christmas present and looking at a mig welder. Looked around earlier in the year, but did not progress the purchase, but now looking around again. I'm looking for recommendation on the options around the quality of the welds and ease of use between gas and gasless mig welders. I'm not looking to spend a fortune around £200 at most for a DIY unit. I'll have to use it mostly outside as my garage is too small to do anything inside with the TR4 in there too. Now I know this leans toward gasless as the wind may blow the gas shield away, but is this really true, other than in strong winds and can't I just put up wind breaks to reduce the issue? I've used a Gas mig welder many, many years ago, but never used a gasless mig welder, although I'm assuming it is similar in principle to a stick welder, just in a coil rather than rods. Main use will be for sills and patching up of the 4 wings plus a little general repair work (wings can be done in the garage on a dry day, sills can't ) using spot and stich welding. Leaning towards Gas as that's what I know... Regards Mark
  2. Sparkplug

    Glove box

    I'm having this annoying problem opening my glove box. It seems that I have to insert something, a key, or small screw driver to keep the lock pressed in to open it. I have to kind of jam the item in the lock to keep it pressed in, otherwise, it seems like the spring is not strong enough to open the door. The lock works fine, locking, or unlocking. Do you think I need another lock assembly, or the light switch with spring, or both? Has anyone had this problem, or is it just Gremlins? Many years ago it worked fine. (You know how that goes.) George.
  3. My TR7 DHC has a black metal strip attached to the sill. I need to remove it. Can you tell me how to remove it, how is it fastened on and what do I need to refit it. Can't find anything on the forum. Jeff
  4. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
  5. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner (tank board) is fitted by pushing the top edge into bent strips under the rear deck. This locates the top edge of the liner under the front edge of the rear deck and then a couple of screws into the floor hold it in place. It would be really easy to just pop rivet the firewall to the front edge of the rear deck but it looks as if it gets tricky where the rear deck curves forward at the sides but also the nicely trimmed cockpit liner would have to be mucked about with and it would need self tappers on the top to hold it in place The photo below shows the space to be filled showing the tabs under the rear deck that the cockpit liner locates in (acknowledgements to Revington TR for the photo and who also describe fixing the top edge as being “the tricky bit”!) On the basis of a picture is worth a thousand words, does anyone have any photos of a firewall fixed and sealed to the rear deck and which also allows the cockpit liner to be fitted? Also any recommendations for sealant. Thanks Phil
  6. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted at the top. My engineer had already fitted a Spal electric blow fan, he’d removed the original fan. The electric fan is automatic, only works when needed but there’s a manual override so the fan can be run without the engine running for testing. Worked brilliantly for Angeloume last year but ran out of time to get the gauge to read correctly. It’s a good feeling to have a correctly working gauge after 10 years! Keep safe and well everyone Christine
  7. Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
  8. Hi Everyone, I sincerely hope this finds you all free from the dreaded. Bored in self isolation, one job I want to undertake is removal of the backlight. I know where to find the 7 nuts which attach tot studs in the frame, but how do I access the nuts screwing down on to studs from the bodywork on either end? I attach a shot of the offside with the trim panel removed. I don't appear to have the small filler trim panels on this car. There is a join in the which covering, but it is glued down and part of the whole as it appears to me. Can anyone please show me the way! Apologies for the handwriting!! Very best of health to you all Willie
  9. Have now got to the re-assembly stage of my 5 project. The original front bumper on the car is very bent and past straightening - I think. So I was hoping that somebody out there may have a suitable straight candidate for rechroming. All the rest of the bright work on the car has polished up really well so I do not really want to go down the stainless route. If you think that you may be able to help me please let me know. Many thanks, Tim
  10. I have a TR5 with a Surrey top. Looks great but not very practical in my opinion. Would someone kindly advise me of what I will need to convert my car to a rag top. Is a soft top a direct replacement? Are the existing holes for the Surrey the same. Is the header rail the same? I think not but need confirmation. Where should I go for a frame and hood? From what I have read vinyl is the best material to use? Thanks in advance, Graeme.
  11. elclem1


    Hi all does anyone have dimensions of a tr7 bodywork in order to jig a tub? My 7 was put in a ditch by a friend and I need to check it’s still square. A quick check using a tape measure shows it has a bent front end by about 1.5 cm. But need to find a datum to work to. Any suggestions? Cheers Andy
  12. Hi All Been quite a while since I used the Forum properly I would like your advice: I have a project on the go (as we all probably do), this requires two boot hinges from a Tr4a. Although due to the extra weight and use of gas struts to aid the lifting the originals are not really strong enough. I have created had a drawing created out of solid works and am looking to have some hinges made which are larger and solid stainless steel, but this is a while away. I am Looking to buy some new ones for the short term and but am worried these maybe weaker than the originals. Does anyone know if someone has already made some solid hinges which would be stronger than the originals or could recommend some good quality TR4a boot hinges to get me by Mark Winter
  13. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
  14. Gents, years of bumper-to-bumper driving has taken its toll on the front valance. Now that the car is at the paintshop i'm trying to find a redress because i can't refit the grille properly (see schematic). The sides are ok (where the cups are) but the whole lower section of the grille fools the valance. I miss at least 5 mm to be able to slide the grille in properly. Now trying to find a way to do it. I've tried bending the skirt of the valance to get some clearance but it comes back to shape so it's not the right way. Banging the flat of the valance doesn't work either, all it does is denting it and whacking on a long wooden across the flat doesn't work either as it rebounds. There should be a more structural and definite solution. So how ? Cheers
  15. Am looking to install a TR4a top and frame to my TR4. As the B-post fitting of the frame is different, can someone put up a picture of their TR4a in that area? There are two bolts each side which mounts the frame to the B-post, any measurements where both holes are in reference to the post would be ideal. The picture shows the TR4a frame provisionally in place, the bottom hole I used is the same as the bottom used for the TR4 frame. As said not sure if this is anywhere where it should be. Should the top of the bracket be horizontal? Many thanks in advance.
  16. need a good body. This car has been fitted with a Ford engine and GB and the body has been raised to clear the GB arch. Looking at the pics there's something I don't like. Shall I walk away ?
  17. The screen frame on my tr6 is a little tatty looking in places, and it’s showing up the rest of the car now! so i’m thinking of repainting the visible satin black paint. thought i would remove the riveted on silver coloured hood attachment plate, remove the tired door window seals, sand, mask, prime carefully and spray using Tough Black questions : the riveted on hood attachment plate, is this just riveted on or should i expect it to be stuck/sealed? which door rubbers should i go for, there seem to be ‘thick’ and ‘thin’ available from moss? any other difficulties with this ‘easy job’ ?? steve
  18. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  19. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  20. PaulAA

    Tonneau (again)

    Chaps ... having another go with this question. I'm looking for some practical guidance on how to fit both popper and lift-the-dot fasteners to the new tonneau, ideally with the strapline 'no special tools needed'. It might be obvious and straightforward, but I'd really like to avoid learning through trial and error and end up make a botch of it. Nothing worthwhile appears on Youtube and there's nothing in the forum. Thanks Paul
  21. I’m replacing the rear wings on my TR6 this winter, will have the new ones painted off the car and fit with new fittings and non setting mastic. having removed the old wings the panel join areas are pretty sound, but there is some old rust. i’ve wire brushed this down to remove loose material and get back to metal as best i can, ready to apply some rust proof ‘paint’ what should i use ? have had good experiences with both Hamerite smooth and Por15 when restoring motorbikes. i’m looking for gloss or satin black, as none of the rusty areas will be visible , and brush on i think will be easier? Steve
  22. Where is the best place to go for paint? I need enough to respray a bootlid (both sides). Also how much would be required? Now I guess it may need Spectro analysis as well to get it as close as reasonably possible, and I’m not entirely what it is finished in. Its a rather boring Tahiti Blue!
  23. Big cardboard box arrived today with my nice new mohair hood cover AND a bag of rivets for me to fit to the cover. I would have thought that the cover would come with them fitted as I assume the originals were all fitted in the same place (mind you it was BL!!) Anyway, I do not have a special tool for clamping the two parts of the rivet with the mohair in between. any suggestions for a make shift device that will not scratch/damage the shiny black outer rivet or do I need to buy a special tool? Do wish these Triumph specialists would tell you, you need extra tools etc when you buy parts from them kc
  24. I've been looking to get the bodywork on my 5 tidied up, it had a full restoration back 93 and from that date only has 7,000 odd miles on the clock, she had only done 1,500 miles in the 10 years before I got her in Aug 2017. Very sound underneath with a couple of v small areas of rust spots on the sill. The bonnet has cracks in the filler from the 93 job and virtually all the panels are now showing peeling underneath the paint, I was aware at the time I bought her that it would need a paint job. I'm no expert but several bodywork places have said it was covered up for too long so to do a decent job, back to bear metal. I've been to four local bodywork shops in after doing my research, two have furnished me with estimates, they do everything (removing trim etc.) basically £15,000 and £11,000, the latter is not yet VAT registered hence £2,200 cheaper. The other two firms never got back to me despite repeated communications politely chasing the estimate. Can I call on the experience of the members here for guidance please, can anyone give me a ball park figure of what I would expect to pay? Full body work, keeping same colour, Royal Blue with Surrey top, nothing to do underneath other than the two v small rust pots, and nothing to do under the bonnet. I will need to add additional costing for new seals and refit around the front and rear glass. Thanks in advance, I'm in Essex just in case someone wants to recommend a firm in Dunnet Head, Scotland! Mike
  25. Tim T

    Lead loading

    Am I correct in thinking that somewhere on the forum/website there is a link to a video of Stuart's lead loading seminar? If so could somebody be kind enough to point me in the direction to find it. Many thanks Tim
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