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Found 502 results

  1. Have now got to the re-assembly stage of my 5 project. The original front bumper on the car is very bent and past straightening - I think. So I was hoping that somebody out there may have a suitable straight candidate for rechroming. All the rest of the bright work on the car has polished up really well so I do not really want to go down the stainless route. If you think that you may be able to help me please let me know. Many thanks, Tim
  2. I have a TR5 with a Surrey top. Looks great but not very practical in my opinion. Would someone kindly advise me of what I will need to convert my car to a rag top. Is a soft top a direct replacement? Are the existing holes for the Surrey the same. Is the header rail the same? I think not but need confirmation. Where should I go for a frame and hood? From what I have read vinyl is the best material to use? Thanks in advance, Graeme.
  3. elclem1


    Hi all does anyone have dimensions of a tr7 bodywork in order to jig a tub? My 7 was put in a ditch by a friend and I need to check it’s still square. A quick check using a tape measure shows it has a bent front end by about 1.5 cm. But need to find a datum to work to. Any suggestions? Cheers Andy
  4. Hi All Been quite a while since I used the Forum properly I would like your advice: I have a project on the go (as we all probably do), this requires two boot hinges from a Tr4a. Although due to the extra weight and use of gas struts to aid the lifting the originals are not really strong enough. I have created had a drawing created out of solid works and am looking to have some hinges made which are larger and solid stainless steel, but this is a while away. I am Looking to buy some new ones for the short term and but am worried these maybe weaker than the originals. Does anyone know if someone has already made some solid hinges which would be stronger than the originals or could recommend some good quality TR4a boot hinges to get me by Mark Winter
  5. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
  6. Gents, years of bumper-to-bumper driving has taken its toll on the front valance. Now that the car is at the paintshop i'm trying to find a redress because i can't refit the grille properly (see schematic). The sides are ok (where the cups are) but the whole lower section of the grille fools the valance. I miss at least 5 mm to be able to slide the grille in properly. Now trying to find a way to do it. I've tried bending the skirt of the valance to get some clearance but it comes back to shape so it's not the right way. Banging the flat of the valance doesn't work either, all it does is denting it and whacking on a long wooden across the flat doesn't work either as it rebounds. There should be a more structural and definite solution. So how ? Cheers
  7. Am looking to install a TR4a top and frame to my TR4. As the B-post fitting of the frame is different, can someone put up a picture of their TR4a in that area? There are two bolts each side which mounts the frame to the B-post, any measurements where both holes are in reference to the post would be ideal. The picture shows the TR4a frame provisionally in place, the bottom hole I used is the same as the bottom used for the TR4 frame. As said not sure if this is anywhere where it should be. Should the top of the bracket be horizontal? Many thanks in advance.
  8. need a good body. This car has been fitted with a Ford engine and GB and the body has been raised to clear the GB arch. Looking at the pics there's something I don't like. Shall I walk away ?
  9. The screen frame on my tr6 is a little tatty looking in places, and it’s showing up the rest of the car now! so i’m thinking of repainting the visible satin black paint. thought i would remove the riveted on silver coloured hood attachment plate, remove the tired door window seals, sand, mask, prime carefully and spray using Tough Black questions : the riveted on hood attachment plate, is this just riveted on or should i expect it to be stuck/sealed? which door rubbers should i go for, there seem to be ‘thick’ and ‘thin’ available from moss? any other difficulties with this ‘easy job’ ?? steve
  10. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  11. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  12. PaulAA

    Tonneau (again)

    Chaps ... having another go with this question. I'm looking for some practical guidance on how to fit both popper and lift-the-dot fasteners to the new tonneau, ideally with the strapline 'no special tools needed'. It might be obvious and straightforward, but I'd really like to avoid learning through trial and error and end up make a botch of it. Nothing worthwhile appears on Youtube and there's nothing in the forum. Thanks Paul
  13. I’m replacing the rear wings on my TR6 this winter, will have the new ones painted off the car and fit with new fittings and non setting mastic. having removed the old wings the panel join areas are pretty sound, but there is some old rust. i’ve wire brushed this down to remove loose material and get back to metal as best i can, ready to apply some rust proof ‘paint’ what should i use ? have had good experiences with both Hamerite smooth and Por15 when restoring motorbikes. i’m looking for gloss or satin black, as none of the rusty areas will be visible , and brush on i think will be easier? Steve
  14. Where is the best place to go for paint? I need enough to respray a bootlid (both sides). Also how much would be required? Now I guess it may need Spectro analysis as well to get it as close as reasonably possible, and I’m not entirely what it is finished in. Its a rather boring Tahiti Blue!
  15. Big cardboard box arrived today with my nice new mohair hood cover AND a bag of rivets for me to fit to the cover. I would have thought that the cover would come with them fitted as I assume the originals were all fitted in the same place (mind you it was BL!!) Anyway, I do not have a special tool for clamping the two parts of the rivet with the mohair in between. any suggestions for a make shift device that will not scratch/damage the shiny black outer rivet or do I need to buy a special tool? Do wish these Triumph specialists would tell you, you need extra tools etc when you buy parts from them kc
  16. I've been looking to get the bodywork on my 5 tidied up, it had a full restoration back 93 and from that date only has 7,000 odd miles on the clock, she had only done 1,500 miles in the 10 years before I got her in Aug 2017. Very sound underneath with a couple of v small areas of rust spots on the sill. The bonnet has cracks in the filler from the 93 job and virtually all the panels are now showing peeling underneath the paint, I was aware at the time I bought her that it would need a paint job. I'm no expert but several bodywork places have said it was covered up for too long so to do a decent job, back to bear metal. I've been to four local bodywork shops in after doing my research, two have furnished me with estimates, they do everything (removing trim etc.) basically £15,000 and £11,000, the latter is not yet VAT registered hence £2,200 cheaper. The other two firms never got back to me despite repeated communications politely chasing the estimate. Can I call on the experience of the members here for guidance please, can anyone give me a ball park figure of what I would expect to pay? Full body work, keeping same colour, Royal Blue with Surrey top, nothing to do underneath other than the two v small rust pots, and nothing to do under the bonnet. I will need to add additional costing for new seals and refit around the front and rear glass. Thanks in advance, I'm in Essex just in case someone wants to recommend a firm in Dunnet Head, Scotland! Mike
  17. Tim T

    Lead loading

    Am I correct in thinking that somewhere on the forum/website there is a link to a video of Stuart's lead loading seminar? If so could somebody be kind enough to point me in the direction to find it. Many thanks Tim
  18. Whilst stripping the front wing on my 5 back to the metal I exposed a couple of 'ID stamps' which appear to read Spencer Works. Has anybody else come across these ? Who are Spencers? Any info gratefully received as usual. Many thanks, Tim
  19. Progress on my 6's resurrection... People did say they like pics didnt they Ive managed to get some time recently to progress the restoration of my 6 after my accident. Its been nearly 3 years since the crash and so over Christmas and new year Ive managed to press on with the body tub and getting it ready for blasting/cleaning and then paint. For those of you wandering what Im on about.. This was before: This was after: and since 2013 Ive been working towards getting it back on the road. Its been a tough gig with a donor car providing a new front end (A post forward) but needing a huge amount of work to get it usable (kick panels, holes battery tray and rust holes in the strangest of places) Few pics here: Im in no hurry, but I felt I needed to get it moving forward before it 'got away' and I lost interest. So, to my reason for posting. Im now at the trial fitment of panels phase on the newly mated body tub. The donor car provided a set of new front wings which I was told were solid.....solid with filler as it turns out! Actually the drivers side magenta is as good a wing as you could hope for..rust free and a good NOS wing. The passenger side though..oh dear So...question #1 I have 2 passenger wings. 1 from my original car, which unfortunately had twisted badly in the accident, but overall 'can' be repaired but will need a great deal of work to get it to fit properly (it has lost its top edge profile, and so it a pig to get to with a dolly). Even if I do get it to sit right, it will need alot of lead to get the nice smooth top edge of the wing right and ripple free. This is what I mean (A-post/bulkhead junction) I have the donor front wing, which from mid arch is solid and good. Panel fit is great and because im also using the donor doors, the gap is pretty good straight off But.... Front is not so good and the headlight bowl/surround is rotten. So....do I repair the green wing (alot of work) or chop and graft the good front headlight section (i.e where I drawn the white line across) from the green and cut out and graft to the donor door (brown)? Is the graft likely to produce a good end result? Ive been advised to cut at the narrowest point (to reduce the surface area) but unfortunately the green panels twisting/damage and the brown wings filler area are both in that area so i have to move the cut line forward if I do go this route.. Any advise/comments? Question #2 Due to the accident, the drivers side B pillar took a knock and pushed the door catch towards the rear of the car. You can see here how the inner B panel has stayed put, whilst the outer (where the striker plate mounts to) seems to have moved back 10mm or so. The issue is that whilst the door gaps are good, the striker plate is too far back as the panel has moved backwards. This means that when the door latch comes to contact with the striker, the little torpedo part engages with the latch and pulls the door into the B post. Hard to describe, but hopefully this pic explains it: Ive already pulled the outer B post panel out (using a slide hammer screwed into the striker mounting plate behind the B post outer) as much as I can, but its still too far back. What to do? Thoughts are to use a holesaw on the rear of the B panel so as to get a decent sized bit of wood behind it and pop the outer panel more (to close up that 10mm gap) I also have the donor car with a good b post outer on it....I can always graft all or parts of the section as needed as well. I can also pack the striker out a bit as well...but thats a bodge and Id rather get it bang on right or at least closer to being right and then use a rubber shim to get it spot on. Thoughts? Sorry for the long post, but its beginning to look like a car again rather than a collection of bits. Its a long way yet, but with the engine tear-down and a light overhaul, its coming together. Thanks if you can advise. Andrew
  20. Hi I've been having my TR stripped, prepared and resprayed and I had an estimate which bears no resemblence to the final charge and I want to know if that's normal for this sort of work as I always expected an estimate to be a good guide to the final price subject to any specific additional work that was required. Basically, I had an estimate for 192 hours for all the work associated with the preparation, respray and refitting the body to chassis, and I took everything off the car in advance so that the body could just be lifted off the chassis at the body shop. I have an additional 103 hours for welding and other activity, most of which I agreed to as the work was progressing, so I'm ok with that also. When the car was almost finished I was told that there was 199 hours extra time taken for paint stripping, prep etc., so more than the original time as extra. Is this normal in this type of project? I also have another 116 hours for items I would have expected to be included in the estimate for prep and paint, such as additional finishing and polishing. Again, does anyone know if it's normal that these type of things are not included in the original estimates, or will this likely just be another error in the estimate? While the bodyshop is now saying that as a goodwill gesture they will not ask me to pay the full additional amount they are still asking for significantly more than the original estimate plus the agreed extras. Is my expectation that an estimate, subject to agreed extras, should be relatively close to the final figure resasonable or is the approach of the body shop in this case normal and expected bahaviour? It's the first time I''ve done a project of this cost with a car so I'd like to check my expectations are reasonable as the bodyshop is obviously telling me they are not. If I'm being naive and should pay I'll accept that, but I don't want to be taken advantage of just because I'm new to this. I maybe should have asked this question before I agreed to have this work done, but I assumed estimates for the car would be similar to other things I have done in the past otherwise there seems little point in having an estimate. Thanks for any input you can give me, or anything you can share from past experiences. Parry
  21. RogerBell

    TR6 Towbar

    Wish to fit towbar to my TR6 after camping at TR International and seeing TR's towing trailers. A trailer tent could be more comfortable in our old age! Watling Engineers of St Albans offer a kit. Any others? Any comments/advice would be gratefully received. Roger
  22. Hi, In the process of restoration of my TR2, we have removed the boot floor to replace it with a fresh one (and a later raised type to have a bit more room in the wheel compartment). When i look at the space around the spare wheel pan, I wonder if there's someone who has redesigned the pan or the whole boot ? If you would fit a more square pan, it'll give more that 20 litres of extra space. You could even leave out the boot floor for the most (ok, you have to weld sheet metal from the sides of the pan to the wheelarches) and cover it like a tr4 boot ? Very curious if we are the first with this odd brainfart ?
  23. Following recent body repair my painter gave me the small amount of left over paint for touching up chips/scratches etc. He did say this would need activator for areas of any size, so i assume it will be the 2pack nasty stuff. The colour match is a land rover colour mixed by a local factor so not available off the shelf from the usual suspects. I want to do a quick tidy up of the engine bay arround the clutch master cylinder area , can this paint be brushed on and is this activator available to non trade. Or would it be better to try and source a proper touch up paint. I know nothing about all these modern paints so any info much appreciated. thanks Brian
  24. Tim T


    I have just finished removing the underseal from the underside of the floor pans on my 1968 TR5 project and was surprised to see brown paint as in the images. Does this suggest that the panels have been replaced at some time in the past? Many thanks, Tim
  25. Hi All Looking to the near future I will have a FHC shell ACG36660 with sunroof aperture available free to a good home. I have owned this car since 1989 and for the latter part has been converted and used as a V8. Originally java green, now matt black. It still has it's original sills etc, although they had small local repairs, let in properly, a long while back which have stood the test of time well. I think the well used expression is solid! I feel it is too good to scrap and worth saving. The reason I am looking to move the shell on is that I never liked the sunroof and have now managed to build up second FHC with a solid roof. Also my wife would be delighted if I reduced my vehicle numbers. If interested send me a PM. Regards David
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