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Cars Owned:

  1. Am looking to fit the TR4a type chrome pull handles on my 5 but the spire nut fixings appear to be unavailable from Moss etc. Obviously I could just self tap into the door panel through the door card but ideally would like to source something more suitable. Does anybody have a source for suitable spire nuts or have a better fixing solution please. Many thanks, Tim
  2. I am researching the fixings for the hinges in the A post of my 58 3A. The top of the door is standing off the bodywork by 3/8th”. If I cut out a panel in the footwell I could access the captive nuts and cut them off. Then I would need a welder to spot weld new ones further in towards the footwell so that the door would now close flush with the bodywork. Is there anyone out there with a picture of the top hinge fixings inside the front wing cavity. Maybe a body rebuild with the front wings off. The hinge does sit at an angle and looks wrong. But the RHS looks the same and closes well. If you
  3. Just about to fit the stainless steel trim to the rear of the steel hardtop and wondered if there was any advice on the best method to do this. I have the nine clips or could it be secured with clear silicon, non setting sealant, or any combination of the aforementioned. Cheers, Tim
  4. Hi guys. After 18 months my outdoor car cover has perished in the tropical sunshine. It's from the TR shop and stood up to two winters but this hot weather has done for it, the fabric has gone all brittle and the torrential rain on Friday made holes in it !! So I've had a bit of a research and concluded that the Moltex is popular, as is the Stormforce, I also like the look of the classic additions Ultimate cover. Does anyone have experience of long term use of these covers, ie can I expect more than 18 months out of them or should I just buy again from the tr shop? Thanks i
  5. Hi, Can anyone suggest how I can adjust the distance between the engine bay firewall and the mountings for the bonnet hinges? And also, what that distance should be? My TR6 has been in at least 2 front end crunches. As a result, the bonnet is pushed right up against the edge of the engine bay parallel to the windscreen, even though the hinges are bolted as far forward as possible (with widened holes in the hinges to give even more room). It seems that the length of the inner front panels, from firewall to front grille, has been compressed - by almost as much as 1 inch. The car i
  6. HI All, looking in to buying myself a Christmas present and looking at a mig welder. Looked around earlier in the year, but did not progress the purchase, but now looking around again. I'm looking for recommendation on the options around the quality of the welds and ease of use between gas and gasless mig welders. I'm not looking to spend a fortune around £200 at most for a DIY unit. I'll have to use it mostly outside as my garage is too small to do anything inside with the TR4 in there too. Now I know this leans toward gasless as the wind may blow the gas shield away, but is this
  7. Sparkplug

    Glove box

    I'm having this annoying problem opening my glove box. It seems that I have to insert something, a key, or small screw driver to keep the lock pressed in to open it. I have to kind of jam the item in the lock to keep it pressed in, otherwise, it seems like the spring is not strong enough to open the door. The lock works fine, locking, or unlocking. Do you think I need another lock assembly, or the light switch with spring, or both? Has anyone had this problem, or is it just Gremlins? Many years ago it worked fine. (You know how that goes.) George.
  8. My TR7 DHC has a black metal strip attached to the sill. I need to remove it. Can you tell me how to remove it, how is it fastened on and what do I need to refit it. Can't find anything on the forum. Jeff
  9. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
  10. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  11. Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted
  12. Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
  13. Hi Everyone, I sincerely hope this finds you all free from the dreaded. Bored in self isolation, one job I want to undertake is removal of the backlight. I know where to find the 7 nuts which attach tot studs in the frame, but how do I access the nuts screwing down on to studs from the bodywork on either end? I attach a shot of the offside with the trim panel removed. I don't appear to have the small filler trim panels on this car. There is a join in the which covering, but it is glued down and part of the whole as it appears to me. Can anyone please show me the way! Apologies for the h
  14. Have now got to the re-assembly stage of my 5 project. The original front bumper on the car is very bent and past straightening - I think. So I was hoping that somebody out there may have a suitable straight candidate for rechroming. All the rest of the bright work on the car has polished up really well so I do not really want to go down the stainless route. If you think that you may be able to help me please let me know. Many thanks, Tim
  15. I have a TR5 with a Surrey top. Looks great but not very practical in my opinion. Would someone kindly advise me of what I will need to convert my car to a rag top. Is a soft top a direct replacement? Are the existing holes for the Surrey the same. Is the header rail the same? I think not but need confirmation. Where should I go for a frame and hood? From what I have read vinyl is the best material to use? Thanks in advance, Graeme.
  16. elclem1


    Hi all does anyone have dimensions of a tr7 bodywork in order to jig a tub? My 7 was put in a ditch by a friend and I need to check it’s still square. A quick check using a tape measure shows it has a bent front end by about 1.5 cm. But need to find a datum to work to. Any suggestions? Cheers Andy
  17. Hi All Been quite a while since I used the Forum properly I would like your advice: I have a project on the go (as we all probably do), this requires two boot hinges from a Tr4a. Although due to the extra weight and use of gas struts to aid the lifting the originals are not really strong enough. I have created had a drawing created out of solid works and am looking to have some hinges made which are larger and solid stainless steel, but this is a while away. I am Looking to buy some new ones for the short term and but am worried these maybe weaker than the originals. D
  18. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
  19. Gents, years of bumper-to-bumper driving has taken its toll on the front valance. Now that the car is at the paintshop i'm trying to find a redress because i can't refit the grille properly (see schematic). The sides are ok (where the cups are) but the whole lower section of the grille fools the valance. I miss at least 5 mm to be able to slide the grille in properly. Now trying to find a way to do it. I've tried bending the skirt of the valance to get some clearance but it comes back to shape so it's not the right way. Banging the flat of the valance doesn't work either, all it does is d
  20. Am looking to install a TR4a top and frame to my TR4. As the B-post fitting of the frame is different, can someone put up a picture of their TR4a in that area? There are two bolts each side which mounts the frame to the B-post, any measurements where both holes are in reference to the post would be ideal. The picture shows the TR4a frame provisionally in place, the bottom hole I used is the same as the bottom used for the TR4 frame. As said not sure if this is anywhere where it should be. Should the top of the bracket be horizontal? Many thanks in advance.
  21. need a good body. This car has been fitted with a Ford engine and GB and the body has been raised to clear the GB arch. Looking at the pics there's something I don't like. Shall I walk away ?
  22. The screen frame on my tr6 is a little tatty looking in places, and it’s showing up the rest of the car now! so i’m thinking of repainting the visible satin black paint. thought i would remove the riveted on silver coloured hood attachment plate, remove the tired door window seals, sand, mask, prime carefully and spray using Tough Black questions : the riveted on hood attachment plate, is this just riveted on or should i expect it to be stuck/sealed? which door rubbers should i go for, there seem to be ‘thick’ and ‘thin’ available from moss? any other difficulties
  23. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  24. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  25. Chaps ... having another go with this question. I'm looking for some practical guidance on how to fit both popper and lift-the-dot fasteners to the new tonneau, ideally with the strapline 'no special tools needed'. It might be obvious and straightforward, but I'd really like to avoid learning through trial and error and end up make a botch of it. Nothing worthwhile appears on Youtube and there's nothing in the forum. Thanks Paul
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