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Found 66 results

  1. I have rubbed the casing flange to bare metal where the parts book indicates the number is, but there is nothing there! Can anyone advise where I will find it? All that is on the casing near the vent is TC2 [in upside down position!] Yours hopefully Willie
  2. I am fitting a different ratio to my back axle. The new pinion has etched on it a dimension.(83.71) Can anyone help by telling me what this refers to. It does not appear to be the distance from the pinion face to the crown wheel centre line. The 4.1ratio cwp removed(in good order) is now surplus-any offers?
  3. I just overhauled the front suspension and as part of that installed Mr.Moss’s uprated axle/bearings/hubs. All went well until the last one, the damn bearing wouldn’t fit on the axle. Could I get the blighter out, could I hell, I even tried swearing at it! In the end I had to take the assembly to Moss so they could press it out. A 20 tonne press later it finally yielded.... after pushing the nut down the thread! It had only been installed a couple of days.......Cold welded! The axle was 0.003 oversize. Moral.....trial fit first before committing! TRrials and TRibulations!
  4. Folks, I'm about to pull the rear axle on my green TR4 which has an original Salisbury LSD fitted. The current axle is shot for a number or reasons (courtesy of a DPO welding the nuts to the axles... ) so I am going to fit an American Tr4a live axle for it's preferred strength but have the LSD rebuilt & fitted into the new axle. My question is - who in the Country is best to go to for a rebuild on my Salisbury LSD? Thanks
  5. Hi all After re-building a 5, I had an annoying (not much, but enough) whine from the diff. We had refurbed the original diff, but only with new seals, gaskets etc. There was a little play as expected. The original diff must have done 85K+, but we felt it was worth just putting it back to see what sort of condition it was really in. Well it it whined especially, around the 50mph mark on or off load, it was much the same. Anyway a while back, I had my 6 diff re-built. That was whining too, I took it to a specialist (I won't shame them yet) but it was re-built with a new crown wheel and pinion. It cost around £1200 and it still whined. I took it back, he checked it, said all OK. Re-fitted, and it still whined. Very, very dissapointed to say the least. So with trepidation I thought I would try Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead, after getting some positive recommendations. A while ago I bought a complete unknown 3.45 diff off Ebay for around £100. So thought I've got nothing to lose to get Hardy Eng to evaluate and advise, which they duly did. This diff needed a new crown wheel and pinion, new bearings etc etc. Hardy Eng supply their own crown wheel and pinion, made to their spec. I'm no expert, so I don't remember everything they told me, except the teeth on their crown wheel and pinion are made with a slightly bigger curve, which apparently provides a quieter engagement. Well I have just fitted this diff to the 5 and taken her for a test drive. - Only 10 miles or so. But whine gone, really quiet, no clonking, nothing. Well pleased and it cost £700. I'll be taking the original 5's diff to them next and then after that my TR6's diff. I know, in the past, there have been quite a few frustrations expressed on here over diff repairs like mine. So I thought I would pass this on. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ No connection, just a happy customer best Bill
  6. Hi All, I am looking for some assistance with rear end noise. While I appreciate it is a common issue in older models, its now happening on the TR6 too. When driving yesterday there was a noise from the back end of the car which grew louder fairly quickly. It gets worse as I move up through the gears. I have been under the car today and cannot find any loose bolts or see anything obvious which may be catching as the prop shaft/axle turns. There is a little bit of play on the nearside rear wheel if I rock it from top to bottom but I wouldn't say its a huge amount. The offside is solid. I have recently serviced the car and greased the UJs as I have done every other year. I would describe the sound as a "knock knock knock" as if something rotating is hitting a static object as it rotates. It disappears when I remove my foot from the throttle, which may suggest the diff but I really only have to rest my foot on the throttle (rather than actually accelerate) for it to return. I put the car on axle stands and engaged 4th to see if I could locate the source - but can't be sure - though it didn't sound as bad in this set up. However, that may just be because the car is amplifying the sound into the cabin. Reading through other posts on the forum I can only assume its the diff or the rear hubs - but I am not sure how to narrow it down beyond that. We're off on a 1700 mile trip in a few weeks, so I really need to get this fixed. As ever, any and all suggestions gratefully received. Thanks. Steve
  7. A friend has fitted the CCD driveshafts to his Stag, unfortunately one of the CV joint gaiters needs to be replaced and he is struggling to undo the driveshaft hub nut, any tips?
  8. Hi all, After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint.. Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences! The question is... what option to go for.. The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic 😉 :-) Im also not keen, from what Ive read, to go for Recon hubs.. I know there are CV upgraded options, but my use doesnt seem to justify the additional expense.. I was considering new hubs (as original) or upgraded ones. And either new (as original) driveshafts, or upgraded ones.. But Im not sure if you can do a mix and match with these? E.g. upgraded Hub, with standard replacement driveshafts? Also.. what UJs would I need..? Any advice from those that have been through this before would be very halpful.. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  9. Hello, after just 100 km....going from nearly 0 play to this.....any thoughts? Jochem
  10. I have finally got around to installing the new 3.45 CW&P that I obtained yonks ago. My TR3a has got a 2.2 litre engine along with a slightly hotter cam; a TR4a head, manifold and carbs and a Phoenix exhaust. As a result it has always felt undergeared. I have set the pinion to what I think is the right depth using my new pinion depth gauge (thanks Bob Le Brocq) but it's not straightforward because the top of the pinion (which is where I am measuring from) is not absolutely level. It varies by about 2 thou across the pinion, so I have set it somewhere about the middle. Attached are some photos of the mesh pattern. The 'drive' side looks pretty good to me but I wonder if the 'overrun' side looks a bit too deep? Anyone got a view? Rgds Ian
  11. I have recently acquired a 1930's to 1940's Pinion Depth Gauge for Buicks. See the attached photos. It was all rusted up when I got it but I have been able to free off the micrometer and it is still accurate - its only a very fine thread after all so there isn't much that can go wrong with it. The two discs are designed to fit in the bearing caps for the crown wheel making it easy to set the depth of the pinion from the CW axis. As is to be expected the discs are too large for a TR3a/TR4 axle. Hence my need for some assistance. I don't have a lathe. I also can't be positive about the diameter of the CW bearing races on a TR axle, I think it is 72.24mm (from some notes I made when I reset my current CW&P) but I can't be positive so two questions? Does anyone know the diameter of the bearing races for a TR back axle, can you confirm my figure of 72.24mm Is there anyone out there with a lathe who would be prepared to turn the discs down to the right size - once I have confirmed what that is? I'm happy to pay for it. I know I could take the discs to a local machine chop but I thought I'd ask on here first as I suspect I can be guaranteed an accurate result from someone on the forum. Rgds Ian PS The gauge will be available for anyone to borrow once i have got it working and checked it by using it on my back axle - I am intending to change the ratio this winter. PPS why can't I edit my typo in the title?
  12. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  13. Hi everyone Heading says it all really - looking for diff complete with front and rear mountings, condition not really important, as I simply want to use it as a jig/template for resetting/refurbing the diff pins and bridges on my chassis. Why don't I use my existing one, you may well ask? Well like an idiot, I've done things in the wrong order and had it rebuilt - it looks the dogs do dahs, so much so I don't want to spoil it by constantly trial fitting it in an hostile welding/grinding environment - hence why condition is not important so long as it is complete. If it is serviceable enough to be reconditioned in due course, then that would be a bonus, but primarily it needs to be cheap so I can't expect too much! I'm aware there is a similar request on the TR6 forum, but I'm not after a good "un" or a 3.45 ratio, so not directly competing! Also the ones currently on ebay are either way too expensive or not complete with the correct mountings. Anybody got anything suitable? Cheers Rich
  14. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 miles so I'm hoping it's not that. Got under the car this morning and the offside drive shaft has a graunch feel when I twist it holding each end. So I removed both D/S and there is play in both sets in the splines and both outer UJs show movement. I also removed the prop shaft and there is slight play in the splines and the front UJ. Do I.... 1 Drop the diff and check that inside. 2 Drain the gearbox and see if there is anything in the oil. (God I hope not, as I had that out four times last year). 3 Replace both hubs with new and new D/S from proptech (this was on my to do list anyway) 4 Is there anything I can do about the slight spline play in the prop? Appreciate your comments and recommendations as usual. (null)
  15. Alloy front hubs. What is the teams concencus on standard fitting, or get the spacer and shim mod kit or go for the bigger bearings and new upgraded stub axle?
  16. Anyone got a tip how to mount the rear axle in an empty frame (no engine, no body weight to help), leaf springs make quite a resistance. Thinking of removing rear shackles, fix the axle and try to bend down the rear of the spring to fit the shackle back. /Inge
  17. How much movement should there be in the differential. I was fitting a new spline to the rear wheel when I noticed that there is some free play when you move the wheel. I will measure it later today. I think that it is still adjusted as when new and is probably due for an overhaul. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  18. I started the fitting of a Rover SD1 axle to my 7V8 FHC over some 20 years ago but it stalled due to various other mods. My aim was to use the Rover axle with the additional track and 3.08 ratio. Fitting TR7 axle brackets and V8 propshaft the car now drives.I have finally managed to get to try out all my endeavors. I am now faced with a design problem I had not foreseen. I had presumed the main central axle castings of 7 and SD1 were similar seeing as the crown wheel and pinions are interchangeable. Not so! I have noticed that the propshaft drive flange on the Rover axle sits approx. 1"(25mm) off centre when viewed down the car from the rear.This causes the propshaft to run in a non parallel route along the tunnel and causes the shaft to foul the drivers side exhaust box heat shield at the rear. I should add that the wheels are equidistant from the car body. My question is has anyone else had similar problems? I have heard somewhere that the angles the props can move should be limited. I had thought that this was a tried and tested modification? If anyone has an SD1 what line does the prop. take as it runs rearwards from the gearbox drive flange? I also checked an old 4 speed/auto. axle I have and even that has an off set of around 3/8"(10mm) Any solutions/thoughts most welcome. Thanks in advance David
  19. Having just covered 2000 miles in the sunshine of France I have returned with a need to improve the cruising experience. So the question is how do I alter the gearing to reduce revs in top gear. I have a late '71 6 with A type overdrive, I know it's possible to put in a foreign box but I like the overdrive and wouldn't like to lose it. I have considered the pipe and slippers version with a burbling V8 but I'm just not old enough for that yet! Any thoughts??
  20. Please could someone tell me the width (backplate to backplate) of the TR2/3/3a Girling back axle (TS commission numbers) and the TR4 Girling back axle (BT and CT commission numbers). I have searched the forum and the web, but cannot find this information. Thank you Jonathan
  21. Needing to replace a front wheel bearing, I've decided to do both regardless. Question is, what is the quality of the bearings from the usual suspects, or should I source from somewhere like simply bearings? Dave
  22. I've just started to strip down the driveshafts today and when I removed the rubber boots I was surprised to see they are different. First indications are that the splines are in good condition with very little wear and so I'd like to re-use them. Can anyone cast light on which (if either) is the original TR4a driveshaft and what the other one is off? Thanks, Barry
  23. Ok those of you that are regular readers of this forum will probably by now have realised that i spend far to much time surfing the web, probably a symptom of having a 'challenging' desk based job that I have to escape from time to time ! Anyway I've just been looking at an article which suggests changing the standard 3.45:1 CWP out for a 3.7 and then chaining the OD ratio from the standard 'A' type 22.5% to 28% gives lower ratio non OD gears for hooning about whilst providing a slightly higher ratio in OD top for cruising, has any body carried out this mod and was it worth the effort. BUO's box and diff. are out for rebuild and the initial reports are that the CWP is marginal anyway. If my appalling maths is correct the final drive ratio in top would be 2.32:1 with the standard set up and 2.29:1 with the modified top. I have another 'what if' I'll post latter today but for now ATB Graham
  24. Could anyone help with a solution? We have a few TR's in from the USA and have noticed that there is a lot of what we are classing as a Tar or like Underseal on the chassis and running gear. Does anyone know what it is and also if there is any solvent or chemical we could use to dissolve it? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks ian
  25. Hi All Since I seem to get sensible and good answers I thought I'd just keep asking questions to get help with the rebuild of my Tr4A (solid axle). When considering the differential, there seems to be two on offer, a 3.7:1 and a 4.1:1. What are peoples opinions on this. A quick and crude calculation: In direct drive (1:1gear ratio) with the wheel diameter = 0.645 m at 4000 RPM, this should result in a speed of 80 mph for a 3.7:1 differential. This is very rough as it doesn't account for resistance. Is there any benefit for going for a slower diff (i.e. the 4.1:1)? Or if you are purely considering a direct drive ratio, and thus no overdrive (!), is the 3.7:1 the best way to go to maximise top speed? It seems like the 3.7:1 will increase top speed but the 4.1:1 will give you better acceleration. Thanks Adam
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