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Found 37 results

  1. I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
  2. Whilst tidying some stuff the other day I 'found' my compression tester which I bought back in the early 70s and hardly ever used. Anyway, as a displacement activity from further tidying, I thought I would carry out a quick test. The engine was stone cold and I got the following results: 160psi 165psi 165psi 165psi I then repeated the test after putting a couple of squirts of oil in the bores and got 170psi 175psi 175psi 175psi All of these figures were repeatable. I then carried out a search of the forum to find out whether or not the lower reading on No: 1 is significant and it appears that as long as they are within 10% there shouldn't be an issue. However I also found during my search that I should have carried out the test at normal operating temperature and with wide open throttle. Now I can understand the reason for the normal operating temp, (I think), but haven't clue why one would need the WOT. Does anyone on here know the reason please? Rgds Ian
  3. Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to be paying a bit more for a Stanpart item. Phone number is 01371 870175, and as Helen is pretty much holding the fort on her tod at the moment then you might have to be patient. Ray and Helen are after all semi-retired, gradually clearing the rump stock of their former TR Improvements business, it's not like they're still a full-time trading concern. Before anyone jumps down my throat, then yes Ray and I have known each other for more than 40 years . . . . and I've known other TR specialists just as long, and longer. None of which influences me unduly when it comes to commenting on their offerings, for better or worse. Cheers Alec
  4. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am using Shell V-Power fuel. However what has interested me is the change in the exhaust note as the timing is altered. When I tried setting it to 15 deg. BTDC the sound became a much more aggressive sounding 'bark' and the engine wouldn't pick up cleanly from low revs, it kept misfiring. I moved it back progressively to the point where it ran best which was the aforementioned 10 degrees. Does any expert out there know why the exhaust tone would change when the timing is advanced? Rgds Ian PS The Pertronix appears to do just what it says on the tin, timing mark is rock solid steady using the strobe and the engine runs as sweet as a nut with a nice even tick over. PPS Whilst the mixture (as evidenced from the plug colour) is spot on at cruise, at idle it is too rich - I am using SM needles and red springs in HS6 carbs - what would be the options for addressing this?
  5. Here's a pdf of the talk: https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2017/07/10/how-does-an-su-carburettor-work/ There's information about SUs ( and Stromberg CDs) that will probably be new even to most SU experts: 'mixture spread'. ======== May I thank those of you who braved the sauna-like conditons in the Friesen Shed. And may I apologise that you could not hear me. I do not have a loud voice and the PA for the arena defeated my best efforts. In my defence I had requested months before that a lapel mic and amp-loudspeaker be provided. It was not there. So I have suggested to the powers that be that the club invest in its own portable kit, along the lines of that owned by our local U3A (membership about 400). For me it was a disappoiting experience having spent several hundred hours trying to fathom SUs and at least 100 constructing the talk. In 2015 the organisation of the Malvern facilities was impeccable ( thank you Ian again) Something has gone wrong this year. I'm not sure I'd want to repeat last Saturday's experience at Lincoln 2018. Peter
  6. hi my friendly engine builders, finally stript the engine, biggest problem was the 4 inner head bolts, after trying different methods j resulted in taking the pots out, welding nuts on the stud and playing heat on the thread, using a 1 metre bar they finally gave in, I did try soaking them in paraffin but the threads were dry in fact nothing seem to enter the stud hole, I can understand why people run into trouble, if the stud is soft, you have had it. I had already made my mind up if it snapped i would have gone to a machine shop to have it removed the stud is just to long to use an extractor (my thoughts for what it's worth) head height 3.350 head no 510084 cast no on side 312137 cast on top k 23 camshaft no mg 21434. and 301456 also letter h cast on it I enclose pics of the head, and camshaft cheers pink (any information gratefully received)
  7. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Check if HT lead from coil to dizzy has spark - no. Change quite new coil for an even newer one - still no spark or start. (Coil is bolted to block, so thought maybe 16 mins of stationary running with no air might have cooked it - unlikely but worth a try.) Change equally newish condenser for spare one - still no spark at either coil HT lead (into dizzy) (held against block) or spark plug. Nothing inside dizzy looks burned out? Rotor is turning For a car that was running fine the day before, what has suddenly happened to take away the sparks ?????? Cannot find any loose wire/connections between starter solenoid or anywhere. I am not sure how to check if the dizzy itself is faulty ? Any clues anyone ? Also, anyone want a place at Brands track day next Monday? Grrrrrrrrr
  8. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber was looking a tad limp - yup quite loose on touch. Wiggle the chamber and you can feel the retaining bolt head loose on the rear side of the carb. Could this be the cause of non-starting ? Fuel is July old ? Anyway, how the hell do you tighten these float chamber retaining bolts up. It isn't possible to get even a stubby spanner or small socket onto the bolt head as the choke (?) lever that goes under the carb body to the jet assembly is in the way. Where this lever attaches to the jet is a small screw, but you cannot get a driver on the screw head as the float chamber (even when slightly loose) is in the way. Catch 22 ! Anyone dealt with this without taking the carbs apart / off - which I really really really don't want to do. Only got midweek evenings to sort this (and re-attached indicators and spots) get running to check all is running well before Brands - so any advice greatly appreciated.
  9. Evening everyone, I've had the good fortune to come across another sprint engine for my Dolomite (as the current installed engine has spun a bearing ) I've begun a precautionary strip down to make sure its a healthy engine, and a friend, who is very knowledgeable with all thing diesel and marine, came round, took one look at the piston crowns and bore wall tops, and explained that the rings were probably seized (not rotating) and/or worn out and it was called 'piston wash' where the hot gases can escape past the rings in spots, and cause the carbon sealing ring to burn away and the crown of the piston in the area where the gas flows, to be stripped clean. Below is a pic of what it looks like, but I thought Id see if the folks here concur and have heard of this before (piston wash)? and could perhaps explain how piston rings can cause this? It seems (thanks for Google) to be more associated with over fuelling rather than compression ring issues, but not everything you read on the internet is true... I`ll be putting a new set of rings in anyway (and honing the bores) but any thoughts? Thanks Andrew
  10. Cracking day at Castle Combe on Tuesday but not without a few issues. OGB is a TR2 with twin Weber 45’s and a few other bits but with a standard mechanical fuel pump. First two sessions, the engine’s on song, running well and pulling hard. Towards the end of the second session the engine cut out and I coasted in. Enlisted the help of Carl and Dan from Revington TR (thanks again guys) and it proved to be the pivot pin on the pump lever had fallen out resulting in no fuel to the carbs. Swopped in a new pump, another session, on song again, problem sorted. Went out for the next session but didn’t make it onto the track. It proved to be the fuel pump again, the new one. Diaphragm looks OK and is going up and down but no fuel coming out. Fuel is running free from the tank but blew the line back just to make sure no obstructions. No answers to that conundrum but to get going again, we put the diaphragm and top half of the old pump on to the new bottom half (with the crank that actually pivots). Fuel now being delivered and engine running again. However, under load at 4k plus and it now feels like it’s running on 3 ½ cylinders. The filters were OK and we’d blown back the fuel line to make sure there were no blockages. It did briefly clear which made it sound like a fuel issue so we arranged for another new pump to be sent. Today I fitted the new pump and it’s still running rough under load. The Webers have fuel filters and they were clear, Main jets are OK too. No blockage in the fuel line to the carbs and filters in the pump are clear. It’s a newish aluminium tank so it’s unlikely to debris from there. There were clearly some issues with the first replacement pump but it ran OK for one session until it stopped delivering fuel. There is completely new pump now so given the above, I don’t think it’s a fuel delivery issue any more. So I’m looking for some guidance. Tappets were checked last weekend. Condenser was changed after the second session on Tuesday. Points gap is OK and timing is OK. Distributor cap looks OK. Red rotor arm. Spark plug gaps are fine with light brownish grey deposits. No increase in oil level and no oil in the coolant. Oil pressure and running temperatures as before. The engine is a little lumpy at idle but it runs ok. Floor the accelerator and it hesitates but clears a bit when I back off the throttle a bit. Does anyone recognise these symptoms and/or have any ideas as to what to do next? Phil
  11. I have been refurbishing a four cylinder TR head that I acquired a while back and the final stage was to get the face cleaned up with a light skim. I was quite surprised when the garage/machine shop carrying out the work advised me that it had a 5 thou bend in the middle. Obviously this is easily skimmed off but my question is "how does a cast iron head get bent." I can understand it happening with an aluminium head because it has a much lower modulus but cast iron is a pretty stiff material, so what causes it to bend? Rgds Ian
  12. Happy New Year to everyone. My TR3a has an aluminium head, not for performance reasons, but because my original head was scrap; I needed a replacement and the first that was offered was aluminium. Earlier today when I started it after a few days standing idle, it kicked out a lot of white smoke from the exhaust initially before settling down to idle perfectly without a trace of further smoke of any colour. Could that be the head gasket leaking slightly? And moving on from this, I haven't re-torqued the head since I rebuilt the engine say 1500 miles ago, (I forgot). I can't remember what value I torqued it up to in the first place, but does anyone have a recommendation as to what value it should be re-torqued to, is it just the regular 100 - 105 ibs-ft or should I use a reduced value for an aluminium head? Many thks. Rgds Ian
  13. Dear All, Roger Williams' book "How to improve TR2 - TR4A" mentions that the front main bearing should be slightly undercut to relieve stresses, as has also been suggested on the Forum if modifying an engine. The rear main has this feature machined from original manufacture. Can anybody advise as to why it was not incorporated at the front main when new, and also how it is "better" than ensuring smooth radiussing? Thanks Mike
  14. I am fitting the timing chain cover soon. There is a stud through the cover in the middle. There seems to be some sort of washer or seal under the cover before the bolt goes on the outside to hold it all in. How should I seal this join. It is easy while the front panel is off and very tricky after full assembly. Any suggestions for any other improvements or maintenance, while I can reach easily, would be helpful Thanks, Richard (H is out)
  15. My old pal Martin Jay (Distributor Doctor) asked me recently for my thoughts on tyres for his TR3. It is back on the road after a rebuild that took rather more years than anticipated - Martin founding Distributor Doctor was one good reason, the chaps rebuilding the body was another, and not so good, reason . . . . eventually Martin and yours truly liberated the car and it went to Stuart in Cornwall for a proper job . . . . . Meanwhile, the costly classic tyres purchased more than a few years back seemed to be possessed of more tread than grip. Old problem, on a limited classic mileage the tyres will go hard and lose grip long before they have run out of tread . . . . And although Martin is the original old school, press-on, sideways merchant, he was expressing concern at the skittish behaviour even on dry roads. This is a well set-up car, Revington suspension with all the right bits on, built for handling speed rather than ride comfort. Only the tyres let it down. The TR3 runs 72 spoke wires, 5.5 x 15, so I recommended 165/80 and forget anything wider. So he mused about Michelins and Pirellis and the cost thereof, and maybe Vredestein Sprint Classic as a budget option. XAS and Cinturatos alike were little more than a pipedream, rebuilding distributors affords a reasonable living but doesn't run to rich men's tyres. My budget suggestions were greeted with mirth and the McEnroe response. Jay questions whether Pringle's judgement is failing with age, etc etc . . . . . Well no, not quite, opinions offered from first hand experience of trying these options on classic roadsters. So, looking at a tyre at under £40, just under £252 for a set of five tyres, with inner tubes, delivered . . . . . well no, you might not take me seriously either. Especially as the tyre is designed for modern urban budget cars, not classics. But Martin and I have known each other a long time, if the tyres proved inadequate he'd be expecting me to buy them off him !! As promised, tyres arrived 'next day'. After a quick inspect, MJ pronounces himself more optimistic . . . . after fitting and running-in he's sounding even happier, then after inflicting some serious pedal to the metal it's " yes we've done another 200 miles , I haven't yet been able to unstick the tyres ! " Now that does impress me, I've driven with Martin, he does not hang about, he loves the sound of tortured rubber, smoking even better. Vredestein T-Trac 2, from the good chaps at Camskill. 165/80 x 15, T speed rating, £39.85 plus delivery. For a 4-pot TR that's good value in my book, and I'll be taking up Martin's offer to " see if you can unstick the beggars " in a couple of weeks' time. Usual disclaimers, I've bought tyres mail order from Camskill, decent folks to deal with, I'm just a customer ! Cheers Alec
  16. Hi all. On my TR4A, I had to replace the clutch, throwout bearing and carrier, cross shaft and pretty much everything inside the bell housing as the previous starter motor blew up and sent all its springs into the housing causing all kind of mess. Since refitting the new stuff I have found a loud grinding noise whenever the clutch is pressed. This happens when the car is both in and out of gear, when even the slightest pressure is put on the clutch pedal. I am trying to think what it is, and I know it can't be worn parts as they are all new so the only answer is that I have installed something incorrectly/ out of alignment. I realise I will have to take the gearbox off but does anyone have any idea what I should be looking for once the gearbox is out? Thanks. Sam
  17. Just got my new thrust washers from Scott Helms, beautifully machined, and IMO much better than the ST originals. So if your doing your wear checks and need new..... Highly recommended! Sent an email got a reply within a couple of hours, payed by paypal emailed back next day to say they were ready to be manufactured and arrived a week later. http://www.customthrustwashers.com No association just a very satisfied customer.
  18. I would like to fit an Inertia cut off switch to the SU electric pump on my TR3A. I notice that the Land Rover Inertia switches are very cheap to buy. Are they suitable for what I want? Tom.
  19. Further to my article regarding 'new' inlet manifolds. My friend has just told me that when his garage removed the manifold they found the manifold to cylinder head faces were not 'true' and allowed air to be drawn in! Some light machining was necessary! ('new' parts quality ~ I think not!) As I recommended previously, go for a good second-hand manifold every time. Tom.
  20. Another rare opportunity to buy a Triumph Italia, this time at auction: http://www.oldtimergalerie.ch/e/auction/Juni2014.htm June 7th in Switzerland. Further details to follow on this car
  21. Morning Everyone, I don't seem to beable to find anything much on the usual websites, and what there is seems to vary between 60, 55, 54, 34 and even 13 (degrees) Yes, 13 degs on one website for a well known classic car magazine! I'm guessing for a standard 4 cylinder it should be one the higher figures, but can anyone tell me from any factory/workshop manual/bible they might have, what the correct dwell should be please? Also I gather that some people are changing the 4 deg BTC to nearer 8 deg BTC because of lead free fuel. So should the dwell be any different now for the same reason, and if so, more of less? Thanks, Saggy
  22. Not sure which to forum this might typically be posted: http://bringatrailer.com/2014/06/02/1964-triumph-gtr4-dove-coupe/
  23. A very early Italia in truly amazing concours condition is now available for sale at a much reduced price. Silver over black interior, this car was the subject of a no-expense spared professional restoration and retains the condition as displayed at the Ville D'Este concours before the car was brought to England and registered with the plate '59TR.' My detailed investigations conclude that the car is the only known surviving roadworthy 'show' Italia from 1959 with many unique features not found on the subsequent production models. £80,000 including the private plate. Serious collectors may contact me by PM for further details and a discussion of the car's history. Nb. I have no financial involvement in the sale but am helping the deceased owner's wife dispose of the car.
  24. Some great colour photos from the late fifties including colour photos of the factory production line. https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesepocket/sets/72157628639064911/ Cheers Graeme
  25. I have received this link from BPNW as a new part, havn't seen it advertised in the UK, but it is UK made. Looks like a good gasket for anybody using bigger pistons. http://www.bpnorthwest.com/new-products/tr3-tr4-tr4a/head-gasket-big-bore-87mm-to-90mm-lucas.html Cheers Graeme
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