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Found 114 results

  1. Hi guys! At the moment i'm making a list of items to order, and the exhaust/manifold bit is up next. As i have a '66 4A, i'd like to keep the current setup of two pipes at the back - just love the looks - HOWEVER - which to go with? I've been to the TR Shop recently, and Lucas was more than kind to take me to their storage and show me all the stuff they have. Extractors: - Phoenix 4into1 - brilliantly made, fantastic welds, looks great, but quite a big bore pipes. - Triumph Tune (not sure where it was made, but looked rather suspicious with its near chrome finish) 4into2. - looks a bit Chinese and the welds don't seem all that nice - overall it doesn't give the quality feel of the Phoenix manifold. Exhausts: - Phoenix - takes 1 big pipe from the manifold into a Y pipe to separate it into 2 paths with a box at each end (apparently there's an option to fit an adaptor to the stock manifold and use just their exhaust. It looks fantastically built and maybe even too blingy. - Double S - Standard twin exhaust, but With the front box (which i'd like to remove for the sake of sound and not warming the floor ) looks well built, not close to the Phoenix, but a much smaller diameter pipe. Now - the engine i have is stock at the moment. It will have some minor tweaks in the near future (narrow belt conversion, alternator, electric fan, removed pcv valve and a oil catch tank) and perhaps some more tweaking later on (87 or 89mm pistons, slight porting of the head, high torque cam) - My question is, would it make sense to fit Phoenix system, as i'm afraid that it might be too big a bore for the engine i have (even with the mods planned) - or am i just fine with it? It's quite a bit more expensive than the Triumph Tune/Double S system, but it seems like money well spent, only in case that it isn't an overkill and won't reduce the performance by slowing the gasses - rather than improving it. OR - keep the stock manifold and only do the exhaust? Any suggestions? Cheers! Luka
  2. Has anyone came across this modification before? I've heard of Pi engines suffering in higher altitudes. Was/is this something available from the Pi repairers today I wonder. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR5-TR6-2-5PI-LUCAS-MKII-ALTITUDE-CORRECTION-METER-UNIT-/181713813235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4efcbef3 Does anyone have any info on the system? Richard.
  3. Hi my friends I would like to buy some trumpets for my webbers They need to be the right length and have a detachable wire covering Can anyone advise were to get the rascals from As the prices seem to be all over the place on the net, also I don't want to buy the wrong thing Thank you for your help gentlemen Pink
  4. Thinking of fitting a set if these in 195/65/15 size to my '6. The car is currently running on BF Goodrich 195/65/15 (last owners choice) but they have to go due to age, the tyres not mine! Please reply if you have experience of the Dunlop's - they have great reviews and once again Camskill are doing a great deal on them but it would be useful to hear of a TR6 drivers opinion. Many thanks Bob
  5. Hi All, I've just got my Historic Status so got the car out on the road this last weekend.. I put brand new sparks in before starting this year, the MU was brand new last year and setup by Malcolm Jones, engine is completely restored professionally, all fuel lines (inc tank) are brand new last year. The problem is, I'm replacing the sparks every couple of months (I know I could clean them but they're not expensive and it's easier to put in new ones) .. they are getting heavily sooted up to the point where I can't get the engine to fire, the car pulls well to about 4.5k revs then seems to top out in each gear, when I floor it there is a momentary loss of power before it takes off, there is a popping coming from unburnt fuel in the exhaust on lift off, umm.. what else.. I've checked the enrichment lever returns completely to its off position and the car runs fairly well with no choke after a couple of mins, it's taking a lot of cranking to start each time though, all the hoses and brake servo etc are brand new, injectors are brand new replacements for the dodgy leaking ones I got on eBay originally (new ones are from Moss). Does any of this sound like multiple symptoms of a common problem I could look for or would it be best to just get the car to TRBitz and be done with looking? Many thanks, Chris
  6. Following on from my posts about power loss issues - http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/48807-power-loss-over-bumpos/?hl=bumpos and http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/49989-fuel-starvation-or-something-else/?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bloss, I've spent the winter months cleaning connections and changing/upgrading a few components (plugs, coil, rotor arm, distributor cap) - the easy bits in other words. It was as much a learning exercise as anything else. I've run the car out three times over the last three weeks (covering about 100 miles in total), and have not had any loss of power or cutting out issues, like before. However, the running feels a bit lumpy at idle and low speeds, and hesitates slightly on acceleration, particularly from standing and low speeds. I wonder if this isn't unusual, or even if it's the way I'm driving the car to some extent. Maybe I'm just not booting it hard enough. I'm also wondering if there are any timing issues, but as I'm really a novice when it comes to timing, I don't know. My understanding of timing is very basic. I understand that spark plugs fire in a particular order and that they have to fire at the right moment for the car to run properly, but that's about it. I also imagine that changing components (as I've done) might alter the timing, as might quality of fuel, fuel additives used, and temperature presumably. Is that correct? In these colder conditions the temperature gauge still isn't rising much above the 1/4 mark. Should I make some adjustment for running in the colder months? I bought my first timing gun earlier this week. I warmed the engine up and then checked the timing at idle, and I could see that the timing mark was just left of the pointer as viewed from the front of the car looking back. Is that where the mark should appear, or should it be where the pointer indicates? Or, am I not taking the measurement properly? Any tips greatly appreciated. Darren
  7. Hi all, I am looking to take my lhd us spec 6 out to live on the algarve as a weekend car. Before I do this I am thinking of performing some upgrades to make the car more reliable, as it has a habit of missing when accelerating. Some background first, had car commissioned and mot after import by TRGB last year 'great job'. New shox all round and bushes trunnions etc, oil cooler, hoses and electric fan. Plus tyres, hood and red leather interior. Car is from California so tin worm free. White paint needs sorting but that's next years work. So here is my list of upgrades, 1, replace stormbergs with hs6 kit from SU-carbs 2, replace what looks like original exhaust with Phoenix ss manifold and big bore sports from tr shop 3, have head converted to lead free 4, have distributor converted to 123 ignition And don't tell the wife how much I have spent Anything I have missed or should do at the same time. I also like the look of the fosseway vented break upgrade. I intend to do the work myself. Can anyone suggest a good place to take my head for the conversion. I am in wapping East London so expect to have to travel. Thanks in advance Paul
  8. Have you clocked For the Love of Cars Sunday night Channel 4. "Car fanatic Philip Glenister and internationally renowned car designer Ant Anstead are on a mission - to scour the barns and lock ups of Britain for wrecked treasures to bring to life" The 1st prog was last Sunday (Harris Escort Mexico - unmissable) but can be seen on 4oD catchup. There is a Stag on the list but no TR
  9. And another question for those who have gone before.........I've got a twin cable throttle linkage for my webbers which is set up and works well on the carbs (on the bench) I'm now getting ready for the transplant and need to know but by what process are the two cables terminated and attached to the arm from the accelerator pedal that comes out the bulkhead into the engine bay? Is it just a case of fabricating a suitable bracket? I know there are plenty of owners out there running cable linkage for the accelerator so any tips, phot's etc would be appreciated.
  10. With the bodywork well underway now and an expected completion at the end of February 2015 the engine has gone to CCK Historic for the rebuild. CCK are fitting 89mm pistons and liners, a slightly hotter camshaft and doing a little work on the cylinder head. The increase in capacity should make the biggest difference with a flowed head and camshaft to give it that little bit extra. So far the block has been acid dipped and is awaiting the new liners. The crankshaft has been ground and is now getting balanced along with the flywheel, clutch and conrods. The cylinder head is also getting some work by CCK. The engine had been converted to run on unleaded at the Thanet Engine Centre prior to it being given to CCK. You can see how we are getting on and learn a bit about CCK here: http://tr4a.weebly.com/engine-rebuild-at-cck-historic.html They are local to me in Kent/Sussex. They have their own cool little motor museum and they look after a few racing TRs. Best Paul
  11. How does one select the dashpot spring when modifying SU's ? If I want to find out about needle selection, there are a million documents online but almost nothing about the spring. Burlen suggest "When the correct spring is fitted it is usual to obtain full piston lift at full throttle and at approximately three-quarters of the maximum rev/min." So where do you start? I've fitted red springs, but at 4000 rpm the piston is only about 10mm off the bridge which is nothing like full piston lift. I might try removing the springs and see what 'maximum piston lift' really is but I'm not sure how that might help selection. It seems pointless to start selecting needles if the spring is wrong. The engine is a Spitfire 1300 with HS4 carbs (from a Spit 1500), tubular manifold and foam filter but that's not really the point - it's the principle I'm trying to establish. Incidentally, had fun playing with my new synchrometer - demonstrates just how useless it is to set the throttles at idle. I found that at 3000 rpm the airflow was half on the front carb that it was on the rear. So I synchronised them at 3500 which is rather more important than at idle. All these years listening at tubes at tickover and it's all been a waste of time. Jerry
  12. I'm starting the think about fitting a Lambda sensor to the exhaust of my TR6, with a gauge inside the car so Air/Fuel ratio can be monitored while on the road. There's been a lot of discussion of this topic on the Reliant Scimitar forum and some Scimitar owners have successfully installed Air/Fuel gauges: http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15432&hilit=lambda Look for the topic "homemade lambda sensor / probe. It works!!!". It could be a great way to check fuelling on PI-equipped Triumphs and enable accurate calibration of the metering unit under varying load conditions. A viable alternative to setting up PI fuelling on a rolling road perhaps? Have any of the assembled experts here any experience of fitting an Air/Fuel ratio gauge to a Triumph PI engine? Nigel
  13. Once warmed up my 4A drives really well, I do need to play with the choke for the first mile or so from cold but after that no problem however my plugs are always sooty. I am running on a pair of Stromberg 175 CD2 which were professionally refurbished a few years ago and despite balancing and adjusting according to the manual a number of times I am still getting sooty plugs. I did try using a colourtune kit but couldn’t detect any colour change when adjusting. As the car is working so well one half of me is tempted to leave alone but the other half wants to get it right. Any suggestions most welcome.
  14. Hi All I've had to do some work on the brakes of the daily driver so moved the TR6 out of the garage this morning, it took a good minute or two of cranking to get the engine to fire, then just now when I was trying to move it I can't get it started.. It's a completely rebuilt engine, new points, new compressor, new fuel system including Bosch pump, I can hear the pump running fine and there is a good spray to all 6 injectors. I'm thinking sparks, I've had problems ever since I got it back together last year with sooty spark plugs but these are only a few months old. I guess it's running rich but I had the MU serviced by Malcolm at prestige injection so i'm at a bit of a loss, (the choke does return correctly, I checked that as well..) I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the sparks out as its getting dark soon and I need to get the front discs back on the bmw before tomorrow am. If anyone can think of another reason for it not starting properly (it is timed correctly, MU is brand new as well so diaphragm should be fine) i'd really appreciate some advice? Thanks Chris
  15. Hi all, I have saved up a bit of money and have always loved the TR range (my dad owning a 6), I would like a car that is usable and also fast (I realise this immediately discounts all TRs but I will persist). Do you think I would be better to purchase a 4 and make a few modifications to make it a bit quicker on a track, or should I take on the project of buying a 4A, and upgrading considerably the existing IRS to get a much more usable car that is equally as fast as the 4. Would this be impossible/ too much effort for the outcome or is there any other way to achieve this? I am not too fussed about originality as I would rather have a car that I can use than one I must preserve so any large modifications to the chassis would be considered. I realise this is quite vague but I have little knowledge of how the two compare. Thanks, Sam
  16. Having completed my track day special with no glass and a small wind deflector, I'm finding that the woolly hat and sunglasses/safety specs tend to get dislodged at around the legal limit. I have a skid lid if it's really inclement. What are the recommendations from the Biggles brigade for suitable headgear and goggles? Jerry
  17. Hi Guys, I'm looking for some collective wisdom! I have rebuilt my TR6 over the passed 25 years, and only just got it on the road this summer. It is /was ex USA spec. Because I have spent so long building it - my requirements have changed, I'm now older... And don't want a highly tuned car, just a reliable fun toy! My problem is - I may have put the wrong cam in 10 years ago... So looking for advice. The engine still has the low compression small valve head, I have a later higher compression unit, haven't fitted it yet, because I wanted to run the car in lower tune for a bit. I have fitted twin SUs from a saloon, BDM needles, electronic distributor, and the cam which is a Piper 285.( high lift stage3 - ultimate road) My problem is the car won't pull over about 4000rpm, just lots of pops and bangs. It will rev static to about 5500. I'm happy to put the big valve head on, if that cures the problem, but I'm not convinced it will. The timing is running about 30degree BTDC when fully advanced, and valve springs are matched to the cam - so no binding. Any advice where to start? Is it just over cammed? I had my doubts when I bought the piper at an international meet years ago - but it was cheap! Is the big valve head likely to cure it? Should I just go back and check the cam timing again? The car starts on the button, ticks over pretty well, slight lope, and is totally drivable in town, just has no top end! Thanks for any advice Pete
  18. HI all, looking for a bit of advise and confirmation I'm not going mad, although my wife tells me that ship sailed a long time ago! Following on my from recent purchased of a 1964 TR4 I'm working through the little jobs and have now purchased a basic timing light (no advance function, just point and shoot). Now to the confusion, after spending a few minutes trying to find the marks on the crank pulley using the light and failing miserably, I decided to manually turn the engine and find the marks, well marks is a little over the top as all I found was a single cut in the edge of the pulley along with the pointer on the front camshaft gear cover. And promptly applied some white paint to highlight it. Put the light on again and hey presto could not see it, little confused and in a moment of sheer desperation and contrary to all that I know about engines and ignition systems I put the strobes pick over the number 2 lead, and the mark appeared!!! Given the workshop manual and the Haynes manual is very sketchy (clearly predates the invention of strobe lights for this purpose) and refer to moving the screw on the vacuum advance unit to get the best performance after setting static timing. Am I going mad or can the crank pulley be assembled incorrectly and the timing mark be 90 degrees out from where it should be? The car is running and starting fine, just wanted check timing. Standard Lucas D25 using points with what looks like the original wide belt pulley set-up.
  19. Hi Guys, After more advise I have fitted SU HS6 to my RHD car. I am now am trying to understand how I should link up the vacuum hoses and the Servo pipe. Should I link the two cards and then "T" to the distributor (type 22D) and then link the rocker cover to the brake servo? Thanks in Advance Mike
  20. Anyone suffer with lack of torque at low RPM? Doesn't matter what gear I'm in and is particularly an issue when the revs dip when pulling off when you need a bit of a quick get away. It is worse if you use wide open throttle at low RPM. The rest of the rev range is good, in particular when the engine is singing above 4000RPM. Running at CP series PI with luminition. Tick-over timing is a bit advanced, 8deg at 850 RPM. I've been back and forth with this but has little effect on the low rev range. Cheers, Shaun.
  21. My 3A is going on a rolling road soon and I am looking for better MPG. Has anyone used another needle instead of the SM recommended for the H6 SU. If anyone has had success please let me know. What else should I look out for? Thanks Richard & H
  22. joste

    carbs tunning

    Hi, all can anyone, tell me of someone, in the Shropshire/westmidlands area. who can tune my cabs please,they are stromberg 175's many thanks. Steve
  23. Gents I have fitted my refurbished metering unit and have fuel to 6 cylinders UK spec 125 bhp PI Starting is not smooth. Usually 4 pots, picking up to 6 When she is warm, she ticks over nicely on 6 cylinders with a pleasant rythmic sound rather than the smooth sound you would expect. Blip the throttle and she misses and stutters Pull away and with revs and work, she smooths out The engine pulls well through the gears, but is erratic pulling away from a standstill. The car is fitted with a luminition electronic conversion. Don't know how old. Fuel? Ignition? Can anyone help? Thanks John
  24. My 3A is starting every time now, like a modern car. My new 88amp/h battery has really helped. I have now put the charger back on the shelf. However I am getting less than 30 mpg and would like to do better as I have a 350 mile drive at the weekend and then back as well. The plugs look brown at the point but there is some black deposit on the insulator. I am using SM needles. Last night when it was hot the engine ran on twice when I switched off. Can you remind me why this happens? I tried a search on the forum and got no results. thanks Richard & H.
  25. Hello, I'm trying to sell my Uncles TR7 V8 3.5 / TR8 soft top, due to his illness he is unable to drive her. He bought her new in 1981 and in 1990 was converted by S&S preparations to a V8 along with brakes,twin pipes, suspension, run on unleaded etc, She has been stored in a garage all her life, engine bay, boot, underneath protected with wax so she is rust free the silver paintwork looks new and she has only done 70,000 miles from new she starts no problem, no smoke, no rattles and revs freely however she has been sat for a year so we have replaced her battery but I'm guessing she needs a good run and/or a service, she is mot'ed and I believe taxed, I also believe the car is in the TR register as she has a TR register sticker on the windscreen I'm trying to find the valve of the car and the best place to sell her, any help would be very appreciated. Cheers, Liam.
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