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Found 290 results

  1. Another TR5 on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR5-PI-UK-Car-Body-off-new-chassis-rebuild-Digital-Injection-History/282905545749?hash=item41de7c0c15:g:NS8AAOSwm-ZavjAF
  2. I am not on the forum a great deal these days - so have I missed something? I find there is but a single page for the TR5 forum, where have the previous pages gone? How does one access them? What has happened to all the years of shared wisdom and information on all aspects of TR5' as well as many great photos? I must have missed something or am I getting paranoid in my old age. Looking elsewhere, I feel the whole forum has lost something, life I think!
  3. Its not mine but.....when you fancy something a little less technical. There is a now a Tr5 Face Book page if you have pictures and stuff to share? 'Triumph TR5 owners'
  4. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I am living proof. The original system was deigned to feed 6.89bar @72,74 Lph. The Bosch I have feeds 5bar @130 Lph. Just about every Bosch pump feeds 5b (some 3b) Some of the differences are in the consumption and I have no idea why a 910 pulls 1amp more than a 909. Now I am not sure how all this converts as it would appear that the Bosch pressure is too low but what can I say, they work. Maybe someone wiser than me can explain? Anyway back to the point. due to a layup without fuel my pump seal has gone and its leaking so its time to change. I have a 580254933 someone gave me and I am going to try it out as I cant find any info regards the specs, worst case either she wont run at all or will not ave power at top end, unlikely its dangerous as I said before in theory its rare to have pumps that are more powerful than the Lucas. Would be great if someone knows where to find the specs of the 933 (Saab 900 I believe) to see but if not I will try it. For those interested all the info point to vistually all the pumps we are interested in being standardised to the 909 and 910 which have similar specs so all this talk about you need our kit as its the only safe one has me wondering if its not marketing? For those of you interested I have also found a Marelli pump with similar specs at about 1/5th of the Bosh price. Interested to hear from anyone who has actually tried the combinations or knows the effects of changes in Lpm (what most of the Bosch do when specs change) I have been collecting quite a bit of info so for those of you interested here are some links. http://www.tr6pi.com/Lucas%20Petrol%20Injection.pdf Page 8 shows lucas fuel specs http://www.leicestertr.co.uk/Part%20Numbers_files/pumps.pdf Range of pump numbers as published by Peter Winn many years ago. https://www.auto-doc.it/magneti-marelli/7613355 Marrelli pump 6b @120lpm very cheap......It does look identical to my 973 and at that price I am tempted to get one to try. https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/B.htm list of bosh specs Last but not least the 2 lists of Bosch cross reference numbers. Second one is easy to read https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/Bosch%C2%A0Fuel%C2%A0Pumps%C2%A0Cross%C2%A0Reference%C2%A0Part%C2%A0Number%C2%A0Guide%C2%A0.htm http://www.guzzitek.org/documents/injection/Bosch_EFI_References_CrossReferences.pdf If anyone has info on the 933 pump I am interested the last link shows the Saab 900 as a 909 so I am hopeful...So meanwhile I am going of to play Tony P.s. I have been doing a lot of research on oils and do you know that some very well done test charts showing oil resistance I have found actually point to all the chat about zinc and stuff as not being too relevant and not as worrying as some people might think. Gonna post it now separately.
  5. Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
  6. I have experienced a problem new to me and I am wondering if any one else has had this problem? The triangular box under the dash. labeled an Anti Torque strap in the moss catalogue, page 211 part 104, has fractured. This the small section on the bulkhead that supports the steering column and to which the column stays are bolted to. I am told it is metal fatigue? I am a "chunky" person but i do not use the steering wheel to lever myself in or out of the car. hence I am wondering how and why this small but vital piece breaks? It is not shown in the original ST parts manual considered I guess as part of the bulkhead, but Moss do show it as a separate part implying that failure is common. In nearly 46 years of TR ownership I have never heard of or seen this before. I would be interested in your views/experiences Duncan
  7. I'm about to order a wiring harness, and thought I'd ask a couple of questions before ordering. I've done a search and found some useful info here already, but still have some questions: Revington TR have a rally wiring harness they say can be used for a TR5, but was developed for the TR4. That seems to have a lot of extras in it, although at a significant price. Has anyone used this, and if so did it work well and were many modifications required for a TR5? If I go to autosparks they do a standard harness and you can have upgrades to that. I know I need a better supply to the fuel pump, relays for the headlights, and I have an electric fan, but are there any other things that I should think about if I go down this route? Having taken the dash out numerous times before and had the frustration of trying to connect all the wires when I put back in the limited space I would like to have single connectors for things such as speedo, steering column etc. rather than lots of individual wires to connect. I saw some comments on this in previous threads, but does anyone know if a supplier makes a harness with this already in place? I plan to ask autosparks, but any input is welcome. The harness I took out had significant modifications as the car had been used for rallying in the past. All seemed to still work ok, but as the car is all apart I want to put in a new harness to avoid any wiring issues in the future. Thanks for any info you have! Parry
  8. Hi Folks, a friend of mine requires his TA stud holes rejuvenating. Has anybody got an alignment jig I could borrow/hire/ for a week. I promise not to break it. I will save me making one Roger
  9. Any idea where I may be able to source these little fellas, other than a donor?....I need 2 warning lamp rubber shrouds for an early TR6 smith gauge?
  10. Bought a couple of new trunnions today just to sling in my parts bin. However Mr Moss does 2 types, a 'proper' one and a 'replacement' obviously there is a price difference and me being me went for the more expensive option! So the questions are: What IS the difference between the two? (how would one know that a 'cheap' one hadn't been put into a bag marked with the more expensive option!) Hypothetical question!! I note that the bottom has a steel base, is that correct? ROGERRRRRR one for you! Dave
  11. Has anybody used the Bastuck syncro rings and how would they rate them. Thanks Alan.
  12. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Tr4-5-surrey-top-Surrey-Top-Only-Not-Car/253461274094?hash=item3b03781dee:g:PREAAOSwz2VamHgc
  13. Tim T

    Crash pads

    Can anybody please recommend an adhesive to re-glue the metal support on a lower crash pad to the old original foam as in the attached photos. I have not had much success with contact adhesive! Many thanks, Tim
  14. I now have everything stripped off my TR5 and the body in off being prepared and sprayed while I clean and treat the chassis and then put all the running gear back on before the body goes back. I want to ensure that it handles well, but is also relatively practical around some of our less than perfect roads. The springs that I have taken off were front yellow/purple, which I believe is "competition lowered", and rear white/red which I can't identify but assume were similar lowered versions, so handling was good if a little harsh. The exhaust manifold and sump had obviously made contact with the road on numerous occassions based on the dents and knocks visible on them, and I want to avoid the scrapes if possible after the rebuild. I'm thinking of road/rally springs from Moss which say "slight raise in road height", but has anyone tried these, and are they good in terms of handling and also how the car looks? I saw another thread on ground clearance, and I know the tyres will reduce ground clearance compared to original as I have 205/60/15 tyres, but with the smaller tyre diameter and slightly raised height will the car look strange? I think I'm going to try these road/rally springs as I can always change later if needed, but with the wealth of knowledge on here thought I'd see if anyone has any views on whether this is a good idea! I'll be putting new polyurethane bushes all round as well. Thanks Parry
  15. parry

    TR5 Bonnet

    A question I'm hoping someone on here can help with. My TR5 is finally getting the attention it deserves, and after the bonnet has been stripped of paint and filler it's not as good as I'd hoped so it needs replacing. I know replacements are available from places like TRGB and Rimmers, but does anyone know if these would all be the same or if some are better than others? I would assume all likely come from the same place so will be the same, but I've learnt that making assumptions isn't always wise! Thanks for any advice Anyone has. Parry
  16. I have at last started to dismantle my TR5 project after its 37 year slumber and got all the outer panels off without any surprises or problems. Thought that I would tackle the windscreen next and have hit my first problem! I have removed the retaining nuts on the end of the frame spigots, loosened the nuts on the retaining brackets and removed the 3 bolts across the dashboard top. The n/s spigot will move but the o/s is rusted into the bracket caused by a leak under the frame seal. So my question is does anybody have any clever idea of persuading this spigot to shift. I am dosing it up with penetrating oil frequently. Many thanks in anticipation, Tim
  17. Hello All I am in the process of performing a full nut-and-bolt restoration on my TR5. I now am at the point of spraying the Chassis and Suspension parts - What is the original sheen of black paint that was used: Gloss Black or Satin Black? Many thanks Dave Thomas South Africa
  18. Roger H suggested that someone had produced a small batch of panels for the rear 'seat' (if you can call it that ?) panel of the IRS cars. DRN 4D is distinctly lacking in the rear seat department, peeling off the bituminous soundproofing sheets brought the underlying sheet rust with it, and a fine panoramic view of the garage floor . . . . So, can anyone assist with a rear seat panel, patch, or whatever . . . . please ? Cheers Alec
  19. Dear All, I hope you had a Happy Christmas, or at least one without too much stress. Do we know anyone who can refurbish the Clear Hooters Switches for wipers and washers? What alternatives to the Clear Hooters can anyone recommend to me. I need a wiper switch. Thanks for your help. Dave.
  20. Hi I have for sale a set of 4 60 spoke painted wire wheels fitted with Dunlop SP4 165 SR 15 period tyres. The wheels appear to be in good condition but would benefit from repainting.The age of the tyres is not known but I suspect they are quite old and not suitable for road use. The tyres would be perfect for statics displays and concours shows for anyone wanting the period look. Anyone interested at £120 for the set Call Tony on 07827 891471 if interested and for more details. I am based near Nottingham
  21. Time to venture into the forum. I have just bought a 1968 TR5 which has been slumbering quietly in a garage for the last 32 years and had a rude awakening when it was dragged into the sunlight and onto a trailer to begin its slow restoration on Saturday. I am slowly stripping it down and have been very pleasantly surprised by what I have seen - very little rust. As soon as I have all the brightwork off I want to send it off for re-chroming. So has anybody used Ashford Chroming in Kent? If so what are they like? Does anybody have any other recommendations, ideally closer to Dorset? Looking forward to sharing this project with everybody.
  22. I have a chrome boot lid rack for sale it will fit Tr4/4A/250/TR5. It is in very good condition with the the brackets etc ready for fitting. Offers around £100.00 if interested please let me know & I will send you contact details. Cheers Peter Moffatt
  23. Having been shopping recently, I have a few bits and bobs available for sale! I have attached some photos showing some of the original Stanpart panels which will be for sale. These include doors, wings, bonnets, boots, windscreen frames and other parts for TR2 to TR6 cars. There's lots not in the pictures. I think I'm going to be busy over Christmas sorting stuff out. I also have some 6 cylinder engines, a complete TR250 bodyshell, gearboxes and all manner of other original Stanpart parts. In due course, pictures and descriptions of parts will be available to see online at www.stanpart.uk.com There's nothing to see at the moment. Visitors will be welcome to come and view parts if needs be. I am close to the British Motor Museum at Gaydon, and the Coventry Transport Museum. I can be contacted by PM if needs be. David
  24. Hi All Planning ahead to some winter maintenance, I am going to machine a jig to drill and tap for helicoils in the trailing arm, to hub flange. I have seen the figure of 4.25" quoted for the pitch circle diameter, PCD. of the 6 studs. Can anyone confirm this figure? Thanks. Paul Bond
  25. Hi I had some rough running for a while on my TR5 PI went through whole lot, even replaced metering unit (was due anyway) and finally tracked it down to a brocken rocker arm on N°2 valve. I dont want to get too involved right now so... I have just ordered a new original style arm and was wondering if its best to simply remove the whole shaft assembly by undoing the pedestals nuts (whats torque just over 3,4 right?) or if to remove pin and cap and replace on situ as its only the second one from the front.? Anything else I should check? Any particular reason an arm should break? Thanks. Tony
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