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Found 286 results

  1. I'm about to order a wiring harness, and thought I'd ask a couple of questions before ordering. I've done a search and found some useful info here already, but still have some questions: Revington TR have a rally wiring harness they say can be used for a TR5, but was developed for the TR4. That seems to have a lot of extras in it, although at a significant price. Has anyone used this, and if so did it work well and were many modifications required for a TR5? If I go to autosparks they do a standard harness and you can have upgrades to that. I know I need a better supply to the fuel pump, relays for the headlights, and I have an electric fan, but are there any other things that I should think about if I go down this route? Having taken the dash out numerous times before and had the frustration of trying to connect all the wires when I put back in the limited space I would like to have single connectors for things such as speedo, steering column etc. rather than lots of individual wires to connect. I saw some comments on this in previous threads, but does anyone know if a supplier makes a harness with this already in place? I plan to ask autosparks, but any input is welcome. The harness I took out had significant modifications as the car had been used for rallying in the past. All seemed to still work ok, but as the car is all apart I want to put in a new harness to avoid any wiring issues in the future. Thanks for any info you have! Parry
  2. Hi Folks, a friend of mine requires his TA stud holes rejuvenating. Has anybody got an alignment jig I could borrow/hire/ for a week. I promise not to break it. I will save me making one Roger
  3. Any idea where I may be able to source these little fellas, other than a donor?....I need 2 warning lamp rubber shrouds for an early TR6 smith gauge?
  4. Bought a couple of new trunnions today just to sling in my parts bin. However Mr Moss does 2 types, a 'proper' one and a 'replacement' obviously there is a price difference and me being me went for the more expensive option! So the questions are: What IS the difference between the two? (how would one know that a 'cheap' one hadn't been put into a bag marked with the more expensive option!) Hypothetical question!! I note that the bottom has a steel base, is that correct? ROGERRRRRR one for you! Dave
  5. Has anybody used the Bastuck syncro rings and how would they rate them. Thanks Alan.
  6. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Tr4-5-surrey-top-Surrey-Top-Only-Not-Car/253461274094?hash=item3b03781dee:g:PREAAOSwz2VamHgc
  7. Tim T

    Crash pads

    Can anybody please recommend an adhesive to re-glue the metal support on a lower crash pad to the old original foam as in the attached photos. I have not had much success with contact adhesive! Many thanks, Tim
  8. I now have everything stripped off my TR5 and the body in off being prepared and sprayed while I clean and treat the chassis and then put all the running gear back on before the body goes back. I want to ensure that it handles well, but is also relatively practical around some of our less than perfect roads. The springs that I have taken off were front yellow/purple, which I believe is "competition lowered", and rear white/red which I can't identify but assume were similar lowered versions, so handling was good if a little harsh. The exhaust manifold and sump had obviously made contact with the road on numerous occassions based on the dents and knocks visible on them, and I want to avoid the scrapes if possible after the rebuild. I'm thinking of road/rally springs from Moss which say "slight raise in road height", but has anyone tried these, and are they good in terms of handling and also how the car looks? I saw another thread on ground clearance, and I know the tyres will reduce ground clearance compared to original as I have 205/60/15 tyres, but with the smaller tyre diameter and slightly raised height will the car look strange? I think I'm going to try these road/rally springs as I can always change later if needed, but with the wealth of knowledge on here thought I'd see if anyone has any views on whether this is a good idea! I'll be putting new polyurethane bushes all round as well. Thanks Parry
  9. parry

    TR5 Bonnet

    A question I'm hoping someone on here can help with. My TR5 is finally getting the attention it deserves, and after the bonnet has been stripped of paint and filler it's not as good as I'd hoped so it needs replacing. I know replacements are available from places like TRGB and Rimmers, but does anyone know if these would all be the same or if some are better than others? I would assume all likely come from the same place so will be the same, but I've learnt that making assumptions isn't always wise! Thanks for any advice Anyone has. Parry
  10. I have at last started to dismantle my TR5 project after its 37 year slumber and got all the outer panels off without any surprises or problems. Thought that I would tackle the windscreen next and have hit my first problem! I have removed the retaining nuts on the end of the frame spigots, loosened the nuts on the retaining brackets and removed the 3 bolts across the dashboard top. The n/s spigot will move but the o/s is rusted into the bracket caused by a leak under the frame seal. So my question is does anybody have any clever idea of persuading this spigot to shift. I am dosing it up with penetrating oil frequently. Many thanks in anticipation, Tim
  11. Hello All I am in the process of performing a full nut-and-bolt restoration on my TR5. I now am at the point of spraying the Chassis and Suspension parts - What is the original sheen of black paint that was used: Gloss Black or Satin Black? Many thanks Dave Thomas South Africa
  12. Roger H suggested that someone had produced a small batch of panels for the rear 'seat' (if you can call it that ?) panel of the IRS cars. DRN 4D is distinctly lacking in the rear seat department, peeling off the bituminous soundproofing sheets brought the underlying sheet rust with it, and a fine panoramic view of the garage floor . . . . So, can anyone assist with a rear seat panel, patch, or whatever . . . . please ? Cheers Alec
  13. Dear All, I hope you had a Happy Christmas, or at least one without too much stress. Do we know anyone who can refurbish the Clear Hooters Switches for wipers and washers? What alternatives to the Clear Hooters can anyone recommend to me. I need a wiper switch. Thanks for your help. Dave.
  14. Hi I have for sale a set of 4 60 spoke painted wire wheels fitted with Dunlop SP4 165 SR 15 period tyres. The wheels appear to be in good condition but would benefit from repainting.The age of the tyres is not known but I suspect they are quite old and not suitable for road use. The tyres would be perfect for statics displays and concours shows for anyone wanting the period look. Anyone interested at £120 for the set Call Tony on 07827 891471 if interested and for more details. I am based near Nottingham
  15. Time to venture into the forum. I have just bought a 1968 TR5 which has been slumbering quietly in a garage for the last 32 years and had a rude awakening when it was dragged into the sunlight and onto a trailer to begin its slow restoration on Saturday. I am slowly stripping it down and have been very pleasantly surprised by what I have seen - very little rust. As soon as I have all the brightwork off I want to send it off for re-chroming. So has anybody used Ashford Chroming in Kent? If so what are they like? Does anybody have any other recommendations, ideally closer to Dorset? Looking forward to sharing this project with everybody.
  16. I have a chrome boot lid rack for sale it will fit Tr4/4A/250/TR5. It is in very good condition with the the brackets etc ready for fitting. Offers around £100.00 if interested please let me know & I will send you contact details. Cheers Peter Moffatt
  17. Having been shopping recently, I have a few bits and bobs available for sale! I have attached some photos showing some of the original Stanpart panels which will be for sale. These include doors, wings, bonnets, boots, windscreen frames and other parts for TR2 to TR6 cars. There's lots not in the pictures. I think I'm going to be busy over Christmas sorting stuff out. I also have some 6 cylinder engines, a complete TR250 bodyshell, gearboxes and all manner of other original Stanpart parts. In due course, pictures and descriptions of parts will be available to see online at www.stanpart.uk.com There's nothing to see at the moment. Visitors will be welcome to come and view parts if needs be. I am close to the British Motor Museum at Gaydon, and the Coventry Transport Museum. I can be contacted by PM if needs be. David
  18. Hi All Planning ahead to some winter maintenance, I am going to machine a jig to drill and tap for helicoils in the trailing arm, to hub flange. I have seen the figure of 4.25" quoted for the pitch circle diameter, PCD. of the 6 studs. Can anyone confirm this figure? Thanks. Paul Bond
  19. Hi I had some rough running for a while on my TR5 PI went through whole lot, even replaced metering unit (was due anyway) and finally tracked it down to a brocken rocker arm on N°2 valve. I dont want to get too involved right now so... I have just ordered a new original style arm and was wondering if its best to simply remove the whole shaft assembly by undoing the pedestals nuts (whats torque just over 3,4 right?) or if to remove pin and cap and replace on situ as its only the second one from the front.? Anything else I should check? Any particular reason an arm should break? Thanks. Tony
  20. I received this ad. at 5.22 this morning. The car is fitted with triple SU carbs. Tom.
  21. I admit that I have been a so called expert hahahaha on the PI system since the age of 9 when my father picked up his new CP TR6 directly at the factory at Coventry in 1970. Sitting in the back of the smelly car accompanied by the whine of the Lucas pump I learnt a lot from the start.o By the age of 15 I was already tinkering, trying to cool pumps and checking injectors. By 21 I was well into vacuum gauges and fuel pressures. So While waiting for some parts to arrive I thought I would open up a metering unit I have swapped out. It was leaking fuel from the datum cover. I have always tuned the PI on the fly (I cross the Alps a lot and Colle Della Bonette at 2650m is Europe's highest and the PI splutters). I rarely choose a pass of less than 2,000m and you need to counter the rich effect of the vacuum. So for once I thought I would have a go at the unit myself instead of sending it back to the UK. As It was leaking I was convinced it was a Diaphragm. But both the unit and distributor ones are fine. So I would like to hear from someone who has overhauled a unit as I would like to try and see myself. FYI Unit had Red springs in it and already there I suspect thats thats not right. The unit always ran rich at idle even when I tuned it down and I think that is due to those springs being for the Tr6 CP which has the idle screw. I would also like to hear from someone who has an idea why fuel was leaking out of the datum cover if both the diaphragms are ok? The unit also turns over ok and hold vacuum with track movement on suck etc. If it wasnt such a pain taking the unit of and on due to the dreaded third bolt I would love to road test settings other than the top screws. The Lucas manual says to take it all off via the pedestal, but I have always been worried going that route due to end float stories. Although the manual doesnt seem concerned. Thanks Tony
  22. Hi I have for sale a set of 4 -15" x 5" 60 spoke painted wire wheels in good condition no kerbing marks with a matching set of Dunlop SP Sport period tyres with decent tread, but look quite old and likely not suitable for road use - given the tyres are a matching set and period they would be ideal for concours,show car or static display - £175 Sorry but I am not computer savvy enough to upload photo's but will send if you contact me on 07827 891471. I am based in Nottingham area. Tony.
  23. My TR5 won't start. It will fire and run roughly for a few seconds, then die. Until now, it has taken a few attempts, run 'lumpily' for a minute or so, then cleared and run normally with no power-deficiency. I think it's an injection problem but would welcome any insights. Also, can anyone recommend a good company who know the Lucas/Triumph PI system?
  24. Hi I am just replacing a broken rocker arm that has finally arrived here overseas. While gapping the valves I wondering if I should wonder away from from the standard Haines gap? I am running leaded valves (original) and always used Castrol additive and even though I have done some hard driving over the years (used to organise a 50 alpine passes in 5 days gig) I have always been on it and happy My father has an original from new H reg 150bhp TR6 and my 5 leaves nothing to be desired on engine note. The car was running rough lately and after checking what I thought was everything (but it wasnt) I eventually found the rocker, but before that I had been over the plugs, new HT cables points (yes I still run points) new rotor arm (one was wobbly) and all sorts. After 8 months storage its was running even worse, backfiring and all sort, so I even swapped in a metering unit as my old one was running a bit rich and I think the diaphragm had now gone after long term storage. I have always done the timing very statically and then just driven it 'on the ear' to get what I want. As I am about to put the rocker gear back I was wondering if there is anything different on the valve gaps and timing I might try.? To be honest I have always been very happy and am sure the new refurbished metering unit that was overhauled by Pumfords will be a please too. Just asking if anyone would have any suggestions for setting valves and timing that might be different to what I have always done? Thanks T
  25. A company I came across several years ago, looking for component to make up a fuel pressure testing rig, and have subsequently used for odd requirements. They seem to have a vast selection of products, and by phone were knowledgeable and more than helpful . . . . . also have an ebay shop https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Silicone-Hose-World/Terms-and-Policys.html Usual disclaimers, I don't know the folks there, simply found them useful ! Cheers Alec
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