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  1. . That was a year that was.. This was the year in which Sir Winston Churchill’s funeral took place in London. The same year, Lyndon Baines Johnson had been sworn in as President of the United States following the assassination of John F. Kennedy (an event which had occurred some 14 months earlier). Stanley Mathews played in his last 1st division game, and the unmanned lunar space probe Ranger-8 crashed onto the moon. The USA sent their first 3,500 combat troops to Vietnam and instigates Rolling Thunder (almost 3-years of sustained aerial bombing). While back home in
  2. Gentlemen, I have searched the Forum but cannot find an answer. I needed to fit an adaptor in the inlet manifold of my 4A and ordered one from a TR specialist. Unfortunately when I tried to screw it in it turned a couple of times and then bound. Could someone please tell me the thread type in the manifold? Thanks Graham
  3. Gentlemen, I have been offered a Lucas DR3A wiper motor for my 4A. However, it is not the 75568A, which is the model number of the motor according to the one presently on my car. Can anyone please tell me if a Lucas DR3A 75607B is a two speed model and if it would be a suitable straight fit replacement for my 4A? I haven't seen the item as it was offered me via the internet. Thanks Graham
  4. I am presently making a TR4A which I recently baught roadworthy. I have repaired the drive shafts and rear brakes and now I am starting on the front end. I have fit new trackrod ends, which were worn, but notice there is up and down movement of the inner steering shaft, the steering wheel moves up and down @ 1/4 inch. What is the likely cause? Apart from the bushes at the top and bottom of the column, that appear ok, I cannot see any thing else that would cause this.
  5. Although it appears solid the rear spring crossmember on my 4A is twisting on the o/s so I intend to take the body off to investigate. As I have access to heavy lifting gear what would be the minimum, panel wise, I would need to remove before lifting. Also where on the body/tube is it safe to put straps?
  6. One of the rear hubs on my 4A squeks when driving slowly. On inspection there is slight play in the bearing. I have TR6 Manual and am assuming its the same proceedure to replace the bearings. The manual mentions several special tools and the fact that the whole shaft has to be removed. Is this a job that can be done at home without the special tools?
  7. In the process of doing a full engine overhaul of my TR4A and among all the other bits I ordered a new oil pump as I would do normally with such an overhaul. The new pump on inspection looked to be the same in all aspects but the "Made in India" label on the box did not fill me with confidence having experienced motor cycle parts made in India which all had to be de-burred etc and made from questionable materials! The bottom casing of the pump is secured with equivalent metric set screws. On inspection of the inlet pump end there was fragile cast iron burrs on the edge of the machined face at
  8. Colour- Black with White Piping Classic Style Seat Ideal for all Classic Cars, Hot Rods, Kit Cars etc... A High Quality Seat, Much Better Than Similar Seats On the Market! Very Comfortable Design Runners available from £15 per seat (See bottom of Page) Measurements: Width Across Base= 50cm Width Across Backrest= 51cm Depth (inc back rest tilt)= 66cm Height= 60cm Mounting Points= 34.5cm x 28.5cm (standard for most makes of seat) C Hi all - does anybody have any knowledge as to whether these seats will fit in a 4A? They are supplied by BB Classics but they can't confirm. I imagine the seat r
  9. TR4A 1966 Hi can anyone advise me on where the bonnet pull should be sighted in the car
  10. Does anyone know why my bonnet springs open if I hit bumps in the road? The spring on the bonnet looks OK as does the retainer in the latch. Could it be that the rubber 'bump stops' that support the two rear corners of the bonnet when shut need adjusting? They seem tight and the bonnet is flush with the surrounding bodywork.
  11. Being furloughed has given me a rare opportunity to spend some time in the garage and catching up on my triumph to do list! So whilst investigating petrol smells in the boot of my TR4a I’ve stumbled upon some concealed rust forming underneath the tank filler panel. Maybe caused by condensation although the petrol cap to body seal looks slightly perished. In peoples experience What’s the best most effective diy way to remove and treat this Rust? Re petrol fumes in the boot I plan to replace the fuel line and old hoses with new including the filler pipe and see if that cures it. The
  12. Hi all, I am about to start work on my next car a 1966 TR4A it is currently Magenta but I don't think this is the original colour. Is there a way I can find out the original specs ? Regards Ron
  13. I decided to try and sort out the dash on my 4A as is not fit well at all. It needs a new switch plinth as the one on is broken, however I am not sure it has the correct passenger side crash pad. According to the parts book the crash pad should have a handle, this does not and it does not fit at all well see photo. Unfortunately it appears the part is no longer available.
  14. John h


    Hi to all hope everyone is well and staying safe can someone help me with some sizes please trying to fit the sill but with no lower inner rear wing and no bottom foot well bulkhead area all I’m doing when I try and lineup the bottom edge is push the upper flange in board if that makes sense what I need is a size between the two seals passenger-side driver-side so that I can then put some timber between gearbox flange and The Tunnel across the car also I’ve lined up the wings and on the very top edge of both wings at the door position I have a size of 888mm The door skin measure
  15. There is a strong petrol smell coming from my TR4A when its in the garage. I have checked what I can underneath, and the connections to the carburettor but can't see any obvious leaks. Can anyone suggest where I can look for the leak? I put 20 litres of petrol in the other day, and the smell in the garage was stronger afterwards. Thank you.
  16. I want to fit oversize spindles to my SU's but can't find a reasonably priced reamer. Does anyone know where I might get one. Thanks Alan.
  17. Hi to all hope everybody is well Just finished scraping the undershild off the inside of the wings as you can see from the photo some rust some areas still in primer . should I treat it with a rust converter then primer if so which products is best I saw a post the other day and Stuart commented on using bonda rust does that go on to the rusted areas first .Also I’ve seen a couple of shells (under side) and inside wing areas coated in a black stuff that looks like under shield is there a modern equivalent? If so what do you use? Kind regards John
  18. Just bought a 1966 tr4a and one of the su float chambers is leaking. Is there an easy fix
  19. Hello, replacing all the bushes on the front suspension on my 4A, I bought the stuff a couple of years ago and only getting round to it now, there is a bag of 8 seals, Superpro part number SPF2496-8K, I can see where two go, between the vertical link and the trunnion, I can find find no sign where the other 6 (I assume a total of 4 per side) are required, am I missing something?, as always, thanks, Andrew
  20. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulate
  21. John h

    B post

    Hi everyone hope everybody is safe if you take a look at the pictures of my post I took off the face panel which had been gas welded spot welded on the front edge then found another piece of metal welded to the inner wing any ideas as to why this three layers of metal the other B post passenger-side is gas welded at the front edge the same also look at the shape of the metal that goes towards the top page or to be post is it just a piece of metal that was put in there at a later date and if so why ? Kind regards John
  22. Hi All, I have a body bracket for the telescopic boot stay but don't know the location, could someone post a photo with a tape measure for reference of this item please. Regards Ron
  23. Hello guys, My TR4A IRS left the Maline factory in 1966, painted bordeaux red. I would like to find the reference of this paint, who's not stamped on the chassis plate. Who can help ? Cheers !
  24. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Fin
  25. Hope you all had a good Christmas. So I'm looking for some advice on the sequence and extent of a floor repair on the 4a. Car spent all its life in California/Utah and is 90% free from corrosion....except for the front LH footwell, which I've seen on a number of US imports; possibly scuttle drain leak or a damp drivers foot mat? Anyway, I'm going to replace the footwell (have panel), but the bottom 7 or 8cm of the front LH bulkhead and the corner of the inner sill are also corroded. how much to cut back and what sequence? I was thinking minimum cut back and floor last? Any advice much apprecia
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