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  1. Apologies if this has been addressed in previous posts but can anyone tell me if the panel light switch changed from a push/pull to a rheostat and if so when. I have a 1961 3a (post 6000) and understood that I should be fitting a rheostat switch but the dash itself doesn't have a hole big enough; in fact, I have 2 other spare dashes with the same size of hole. The other issue is that the bezel sold with the new aftermarket rheostat is totally different to the original in that it is very thin and of a smaller diameter. I spoke to TR Trader yesterday to try and source an original second hand sw
  2. Has anyone been able to fit Daylight Running Lights to the front of their TR3A? Tom.
  3. Why is it so difficult to fit the heater? I had the motor overhauled and cleaned up the rest of it. Trying to make it fit back in is very hard. The bracket which attaches to the bulkhead behind the battery seem to hold the heater too low. I removed the dashboard stay and fitted the heater back in but it needed a lot of leverage to replace the stay. After a while lying on your back under the dashboard, begins to lose it's appeal. This is not a complicated job but I am obviously doing it the wrong way. Any advice would be very useful Almost ready for Drive it Day. Thanks Richar
  4. I have a problem with the pistons on my H6 carbs. I am trying very carefully to tune the front carb after changing the needle because the old one was bent. The front piston falls smoothly and there is a metallic click. The rear piston fall much faster and there is a loud metallic click. I have polished the front one and tried it without the damper or the jet in place and it is slow. Which one is correct ? I would like both to be the same. The leaks have gone away and the carbs were overhauled last year. Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks Richard
  5. I've got a problem with my 61 3a in that I've got an oil leak that has developed between the back of the gearbox and the overdrive. I should add that I purchased the gearbox and overdrive as a fully refurbished unit from someone that I know 3 to 4 years ago but I've only just got round to installing into the car which is nearing a lengthy restoration. The box and overdrive has been recently tested and all seems fine but soon after I noticed the oil leak which I thought initially was coming from the large brass drain; I purchased the correct spanner and fitted a new washer but still the oil lea
  6. I've renewed everything on my brake and clutch systems. New discs, calipers, copper brake pipes and flexible s/s pipes. Which brake fluid should I use? When I fitted 'Coopercraft' four cylinder front brake calipers to my 1965 'E'-type Jaguar I was instructed NOT to use Silicon brake fluid ~ Why??? Tom.
  7. I'm a bit concerned at the alignment of the steering column on my 61 3a in that it is sitting about 3/4 of an inch below the semi circular hole in the dash, I have completed a previous rebuild of a 1959 car and the column finished much nearer dash itself, probably 2 or 3 mm. Apart from my concern that this may be placing undue strain on the free movement of the column, it also makes the fitting of the threaded tie rod to the facia bracket very difficult as this is now too low? Also, the stator tube has a split on one end, should this go at the top or the bottom of the column? Thanks G
  8. I'm part way through restoring a 61 3a and am about to install the wiring loom; with regards to the panel switch should this be a push/pull switch or a rheostat? Thanks Graeme
  9. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material fo the gasket between the body & windscreen stanchion? Thanks Graeme
  10. I've bought a new tonneau from SC Parts to replace the existing LHD converted one! The existing one has LTD clips which have the words Lift the Dot stamped in them. The pack that has come with the tonneau has no writing on. I see on the web that ones with writing on are available What were the originals like, please. With words or plain? Thanks Ian
  11. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http:
  12. I took advantage of the almost springlike weather in Frome today to refit the rear axle to my TR3a today. Apart from the fact that it's a heavy old lump of iron and I'm not as young as I used to be, it all went reasonably well until it came to reconnecting the handbrake. Try as I might, I couldn't get the cable at the axle end to slot into the little welded bracket on the axle. In the end I ran out of time but does anyone know an easy way to do it or is it a case of having to disconnect the clevis at the front so that there is enough slack to allow it to be slotted into place. If any
  13. Looking at purchasing a new TR3A steel front apron, and have heard stories that they do not fit. Would greatly appreciate feedback from anyone who has purchased and fitted a new front apron on a TR3 or TR3A.
  14. Does anyone know of any suppliers selling new chrome indicator arms (part of the horn push assembly)? I felt sure that I saw something a few weeks ago on line from one of the suppliers but I cant find it now. Mine is all operational, just pitted and it seems you have to buy the complete assembly or have it re chromed if you want to smarten it up. Thanks Graeme
  15. I'm hoping that someone can help me to identify the fixing shown in the attached photo; I'm wanting to use one on the joint in my vent flap mechanism on my 61 3a shown in the second picture with the slotted screw in place. I'm sure that there have been numerous posts in the past on this subject but it seems to me that the only way of assembling this is to fix the bottom half of the assembly (nearest the bonnet), attach the operating rod from inside the cockpit, fix the flap itself onto the bulkhead and finally attach the two parts together using a pin with one of these spring type fixings alo
  16. Hi Guys I have just bought a replacement for my defective ignition switch but minus the barrel. I need to know how to remove the barrel, and replace it in the new switch body, can anybody help? Thanks Dave
  17. I've got a couple of parts which I could do with a bit of help with, I've attached a couple of images to help; the first is a blanking piece which I thought was intended to be positioned in the engine bay to blank off the redundant hole for the steering column (depending upon whether you have a R/H or L/H drive car). My question is, was this part always used as I have a left hand drive car but no redundant hole on the right hand side that needs blanking off? My second part is as you've no doubt gathered the wiper rack tube from the motor to the first box; this measures approximately 38cm
  18. I'm hoping that someone may be able to help me with a problem with the positioning of the fuel tank on my 61 3a (Left hand drive).My car has the flat floor behind the seats with a couple of brackets which I assume are there for fixing of the straps securing the fuel tank itself. My problem is that I've positioned the fuel tank and aligned the filler hole with the hole in the rear bulkhead, The step in the base of the tank also appears to be where it should be but the issue is that the drain and the outlet don't align with the hole that's in the floor and there's no hole at all for the fuel sup
  19. Evening all, I'm restoring a 1961 3a (TS76876L) which is in left hand drive form; over the weekend I re installed the pedal box but when I came to fixing the throttle pedal I hit upon a bit of a problem in that in order for the pedal to sit in the right location in the footwell, the left hand bush has to come off the connector (part number 120443 in the Moss book) and as such is effectively sitting on the shaft of the pedal shaft (i.e. just after where it bends round to the horizontal part of the shaft before the location of the connector). What is confusing is that the pedal itself appear
  20. Can anyone tell me the size of the countersunk slotted screw that fixes the glove box hinge to the dashboard? I've looked on the rimmer catalogue but there doesn't appear to be anything listed? Moss have a part number 501555 but it's not available and appears to show a pozi drive head whereas I thought they were slotted? Many thanks Graeme
  21. Yes I realise this isn't a technical topic . . . . I've copied it across from 'Members' Chat' such that Jean's many friends who are not Register members can also, hopefully, lend a little support to Jean's cause in his hour of need. Many Forumites will be familiar with Jean Roulleaux, our famous Belgian who invariably joins us at the International Weekend, and often enough at other TR events in the UK and in Europe. Jean's deteriorating health has been a matter of concern over the past couple of years, and it's now reached a crisis stage. In a nutshell, the recent surgery that shou
  22. I have finally got around to installing the new 3.45 CW&P that I obtained yonks ago. My TR3a has got a 2.2 litre engine along with a slightly hotter cam; a TR4a head, manifold and carbs and a Phoenix exhaust. As a result it has always felt undergeared. I have set the pinion to what I think is the right depth using my new pinion depth gauge (thanks Bob Le Brocq) but it's not straightforward because the top of the pinion (which is where I am measuring from) is not absolutely level. It varies by about 2 thou across the pinion, so I have set it somewhere about the middle. Attached a
  23. Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec
  24. Trying to help my young neighbor with his TR3A project car. Looking through the wiring diagram I have, it does not indicate a resistance wire or ballast resistor for this model. Therefore I guess it is a true 12v coil? Thanks for any clarification.
  25. I need a template for the metal shield which i have seen on the forum but cannot find.
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