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  1. Hello old friends! It's been quite a while but I've been spending more time enjoying my cars, and grandchildren. Because of the sudden and unpredictable nature of this failure I was compelled to report this incident. My '59 TR3A recently had a clutch master cylinder failure. Basically, it came apart internally while my mechanic was delivering the car after annual maintenance. He was forced to shift by speed matching to get it back to his shop. This car has approx. 5K miles since the restoration was completed in June 2012. The MC that failed is an after market unit that I bought in 20
  2. Hello again. Came across this advert in eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3a-57-62-NEW-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-3-4-bore/143069972878?hash=item214fa2898e:g:3l8AAOSwTM5YtGzS Anyone know of this business and can you recommend. The clutch MC looks like the original Girling and not like the new design casting being sold by Moss, Roadster Factory and others. Thanks, Frank
  3. I am currently fitting a Smiths heater, bought on the forum several years ago, to my 1958 Tr3a. Unfortunately I am missing the short screen vent duct that sits between the main outlet on the bottom plate and the Y piece. The duct positions the Y piece in an upward direction. Before making one I thought I would ask if anyone has such a part available. Kind Regards Alan
  4. Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap. I hope to fix it tomorrow Thanks Richard & B.
  5. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  6. I was disappointed at Stoneleigh when I failed to find a single used overrider. I am planning to have mine triple coated but one side is dented. I only need to replace that one. There must be members reading this who have some in the back of the garage. Please have a look and let me know. I have tried TRbitz & TRshop. Thanks Richard & B
  7. I spent the last two weeks of free time fitting a new steering column and ball joints, and an overhauled starter. The radiator went for servicing after a small leak was noticed. It took me a full afternoon to replace the front panel. I turned on the ignition after all this and the brake lights came on. I can not have damaged any wiring when fitting the new starter. It was a tight squeeze. There is power to the brake light switch and it appears to be constant on the other side of the switch. This is going to mean brake bleeding which i do not like. Is there any other possible proble
  8. Here's a nice TR3 BAT auction in Arizona. Low money so far. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-triumph-tr3a-18/ Tom
  9. Apologies if this subject has been covered previously but what is the correct size tyre to fit the spare wheel well on a 3a; I’ve just fitted a 155/80 tyre to a brand new wire wheel & it doesn’t fit, in fact it’s not even close. Before buying this size tyre I tried a steel wheel with the same size tyre & fitted fine. thanks graeme
  10. Hi Tom Have a nice day today. We congratulate your rugby team against us, but we will never forgive you! Dave
  11. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the e
  12. After driving into a fence post my steering wheel moved through 90 degrees ( edit should read 180 degrees) but still worked well. Now that we have the wheels off the damage can be assessed. The black tube housing for the column has moved 1/2" away from the black steering box housing. Therefore the peg in the rocker shaft is now operating higher up the scroll. Option 1 Take off the steering wheel and press the tube back into place, and carry on. Option 2 Remove and dismantle the whole column/housing and renew everything. For one hit on the track rod ends to cause
  13. My speedo stopped working and while I was researching an overhaul of the instrument, I checked the cable and found the gearbox end hanging loose. I have now unscrewed the retaining collar and pushed the cable outer back in place. There is a bit of oil about so it will slide out again. I plan to clean it off with white spirit and glue it back on. Please advise on the best adhesive ? At least it will be a lot less expensive than the overhaul While I had the speedo out I tried the Nut and Bolt Store for a wing nut to retain the instrument in the dash board. They could not identify the
  14. Hi All I have just had to replace my Armstrong rear shocks after feeling the bumps over everything on the on the road. It is not an easy job as per the workshop manual as I could not separate the link from the arm which is a taper joint fitting. To get the shocks out with the links attached meant releasing the retainer plate under the road spring to get the link through passed the spring and the chassis. Getting that plate on again was some job, fortunately I was on a two post lift at a friends house and he helped with muscle ( I´m 80 years old now) using a wrecking bar for the leve
  15. I’m about to resemble the door locks on my 613a and have everything that I need except for the return spring. Rimmers have it listed as part number 606974 but it’s unavailable. Does anyone have any ideas where I can get them from or alternatively is there another spring that would do the job; throttle return spring perhaps? thanks Graeme
  16. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
  17. Has anyone out there got a pair of old front springs. ST made so that I can carry on experimenting with my ride height. I have spent the whole afternoon in the garage looking for the ones that I removed about three years ago. I can collect locally in Sussex or arrange collection. Please let me know how much you would like ? Thanks Richard
  18. My car is running very well at last. Now I can concentrate on the suspension. The back is too low and hits the kerb sometimes. I have seen a TR3 at the monthly meet with much greater clearance. I am searching for a supplier. I am OK with the handling but the clearance is my problem. I have found some springs made in Sheffield, which sounds appealing ,but they are £400.00 per pair. Where do the Moss springs come from ? I heard that someone had spring leaf twisting problems. Any advice please Richard
  19. HI All I went to a so called "Swapmeet" near Salmon Arm in B.C. last week and found amongst the abandoned cars there at the back, a Henry J car, a Valiant Barracuda, and a 1968 Studebaker Avanti with a very striking front end and a rear window that almost looked like a Jensen Interceptor. The Valiant had a similar rear window which I am told you can still get a replacement for as many people saved theirs when they sent the car for scrap. There was also a Monaco in yellow which was rebuilt and for sale which I think is a Mercury model, no price on the ad in the window. I also met and
  20. The rev counter on my TR3a has up to now been pretty stable but recently it has started to waver about before settling at what i presume is the correct reading. Can anyone advise what is likely to be the cause? Rgds Ian
  21. I had my car in the local garage for a check on the propshaft which he fitted two weeks ago. The rear wheels had significant play on the splines before loosening the spinner. The splines and wheels have covered less than 2k miles. Once the wheel was off the spline shoulder was shiny and so was the wheel shoulder. The mechanic, friend, took the spinner away and cleaned out the recess. When it was fitted there was no movement. This suggests that there must have been some grit preventing the spinner from closing down fully. It seems to be all right now. Could I improve on this repair by remo
  22. Can anyone out there help with a slightly low oil pressure and where it might be going? The engine was rebuilt in 2012 since when it has not travelled many miles. It has a reground crank 30 thou undersize Initially when I checked the oil pump it seemed all within spec so rather than replace an original item with a questionable replacement I kept it. When I started to use the car the oil pressure was on the low side when the oil was hot so I bought a new pump from the TR Shop along with a set of big end shells and fitted them. When I took the old shells out they weren't showing si
  23. Asking for a good friend who has mislaid the brackets that the stanchions slide onto....wanted a pair. Please PM me if you have some... Thanks Mark
  24. Hi all I am preparing a hardtop for my Tr3a and have all the parts except for the two roof bows. Does anyone have a spare roof bow(s) for sale, or one that they are happy to measure/ photograph to help me make new bows. Regards Alan
  25. For a long time now I have been plagued by a fuel leak from the outlet on the (mechanical) fuel pump. I have tightened the nut several times but the leak seems to be getting worse. From searching the forum I gather that PTFE tape is not the stuff to use but can anyone recommend a sealant that will work in that situation? In the past I have thought that I have cured it only for it to re-appear again so it is possible that it doesn't like the vibration. Rgds Ian
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