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  1. Hi, Mentioned here a couple of weeks ago that my distributor seized up. Was finally able to get the shaft out of the bronze bushing, whilst doing so a number of little bonze pieces fell out. It appears that the top 1/2" of the bushing totally came to pieces. Don't know why this happened but lack of lubrication ( my bad) might be the reason. Yves
  2. I am disassembling the engine on my '58 TR3A and am pondering replacement of the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. What is the criteria for inspection of the sprockets to determine re-use vs. replacement? Thanks in advance for your time. Steve
  3. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  4. Hi All, Not sure what side is up or down on the distributor clamp. Starting to think that this might have been a factor in my seized up distributor. Yves
  5. Hi Can anyone help me understand the water flow around the 4 pot (3a with a heater) I found this video that helps interested in the flow temp and rate ( hot /fast ie nothing technical) to the heater from the back of the block, tap fully open. Through the heater (temp drop fan on fan off?) and returning via stainless pipe to the water pump (bypass part?) is the water pushed out of the head or sucked from the pump ? the heater seems to produce warm air on to left knee when the blower is on. ( but only recently learnt that the air intake flap doesn’t feed t
  6. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  7. I’ve added electric fuel pump, electric fan, heated seats, cig lighter plug for the Navi, overdrive and it could be I have forgotten something. I don’t remember exactly how I hooked it all up. It didn’t look nice but it all works and I’m glad it’s hidden behind the dash. The car is now negative ground with alternator. I’m planning to open that can of worms and re-do it the way it should be done, with fuse box, fuses with proper values and wire gauge, etc. as necessary. Can anyone suggest a wiring diagram with fuse box, etc. Picture would be appreciated too, of course. Original appea
  8. Questions have been asked from Australia about the car in the pictures below. It's being described as a fibre glass bodied TR3, that was towed to race tracks by a TR6. It seems to have a UK Q-reg, which may mean that it's of unknown age, or it's a kit car of some description. I'm aware that there are kit car copies of the TR3 and TR3a being made. If anyone can shed any light about this car or its history, I'll pass it back to the interested party in Australia. Thanks David
  9. Having sorted out the rear apron I am now looking to fit the rear o/s quarter panel. Once again problems it does not fit and I notice it is a different shape from the panel that was on. The lip that folds round the B post is not deep enough and where the panel mates with the inner quarter panel at the top it is actaully a different shape. The original, perhaps thats the wrong word, I should say the panel taken off is flat where it mates with the inner panel and the top of both panels were seam welded at the very edge. The new panel is shaped with no flat edge and it does not fit flush with the
  10. Here is an interesting beast! Had a fun drive to the east shore with my friend’s “silver bullet”.. Cheers Dan
  11. Hi folks, I’m trying to track down one of these grilles for my TR3a. If you have one you’d like to sell, or know of one for sale, please let me know. Thanks David
  12. Having got my TR3a engine running as smoothly as it has ever done, I now have a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. Initially, I thought it was coming from the rocker cover but although that was part of the problem it has now been fixed and the oil leak persists. Yesterday, I put the car up on ramps so that I could take a good look underneath and discovered a steady drip fom the bottom of the bellhousing when the engine is running. It's definitely engine oil and stops when I turn the engine off. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the rear of the crank machined to take a
  13. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered
  14. Hi, Having some issues with a 3A since the fuel pump gave out last week. I have since sourced a new pump and began work on removing it which as all forums that I had read, took too long with the awkward angle of the right nut! Something I had noticed upon first inspection, but did not realise the significance of until I had dismantled as much of the pump as possible, the rocker arm fulcrum pin has come loose and is to one side and no longer can be pushed back in (or pulled out from the angle). With the pin out to the side, this is now also being caught on the top of (what I think is
  15. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to
  16. I took my TR3a for its MOT today and whilst it passed without any issues, the mechanic pointed out that there was quite a lot of play in the rear hub bearings. They weren't noisy but they had quite a lot of play. It's a while since I touched them but I don't recall it as being a simple job to adjust them. The only way that I can think of doing it will be to remove the half shaft and adjust the shim pack between the brake back plate and the rear axle, which will be a pain as I have to remove the six set screws with their locking tabs etc. Is that correct or is there an easier way?
  17. I am sure that there was a thread on this forum about an owner who had made splash panels in the back wheel arch, like the ones that seal the front wheel arch from the main body. It looks a bit more complicated than the front but I have time , with lock down, so I am interested. I have one rear wing off the car. I remember that a reply to the original post was a request for a template. But I can not find the post. Can anyone help with advice. Thanks Richard & B
  18. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  19. I am about to start removing the front and rear wings. I have been soaking the screw headed bolts, under the wing with WD40 every day for the past week. Unfortunately I cannot shift the bolts even with and impact screw driver. Short of drilling them out or grinding the heads off has any one any tips?
  20. Is there a way to improve the ride height at the back without removing/replacing the rear springs. ? My car is too low and the exhaust hits the speed bumps. There is no space between the wing edge and the top of the tyre when looking straight on from the side. The tyre is inside the wing. Any answers would be helpful. Thanks Richard & B
  21. The battery on my TR3a has finally given up the ghost after about 8 years. Because my car has been converted to negative earth and I like the terminals adjacent to the bulkhead, I use a code 068 battery which fits well. After a quick search on the internet I ended up with a Yuasa 3000 series battery (72 Ah, 630 amp) for £77 delivered from GSF car parts. It arrived next day and has a 4 year guarantee. New battery has now been fitted and is working fine. My only purpose in this post is to highlight the price and service from GSF. Rgds Ian PS My car is non standard
  22. Hi Guys I am thinking about bringing my TR3A to B.C. Canada but require to know what you have to do when the car is laid up for winter. Do you have your cars in heated garages? or what other preparations do you have to make? possibly put them up on axle stands to clear tyres off the cold concrete or steel floors. Thanks Dave
  23. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  24. I read an old post from Ian Cornish about him using Aluminium J section to make new rain channels for the TR3 hardtop.. Is it still available?Has anyone made any progress on getting a profile bent to shape?
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