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Cars Owned:

  1. Hi Gents (and Ladies) Despite two close misses, Olde Shiney is still for sale. A tiny area of paint bubbles on an arch lip (above sound metal) on a 1" X 3" patch needs to be addressed as it seems to be scarring people considering purchasing a 59 year old car car with an otherwise very good finish - you wonder what they expect - new BMW finish ! However, the inclusion of the options of with or without hard top and with or without the Ridgard seats seems to confuse some making inquiries. For example, all parties seem to ask what was wrong with the original seats rather than what is
  2. Hi all. I am struggling to work out how you are meant to fit the carpet to the bulkhead that goes around the gearbox tunnel. It fits snuggly up to the cover. If I glue it in, I will be unable to get to the gearbox cover securing nuts. Do I leave space to access the fixing bolts and overlap the gearbox cover carpet? I have replaced carpets in my TR5 before, but on the 5 there is a fixing flange that extends from the bulkhead. As I would be the only one that would know if it is not fitted, I was wondering if I would be better off using the piece to cover the sections of the sills beneath the hoc
  3. As you will recall, I have been looking (or not) at my dash lights. I still am (not). As a reminder, the lights for the dash, tacho and speedo simultaneously stopped lighting, however, the ammeter fitted with the alternator glows bright. The indicator and ignition lamps also work fine (as does everything else electrical) It is the early 3A push/pull switch. I can see no loose wires. I assumed that rather than all 6 bulbs blowing together, it might be the switch (2H4841), but as the ammeter comes on via the panel light switch, I assumed that it must still work ? Is this
  4. I have used a Bilt Hamber product for cleaning rusty parts. It is deox-c which makes a bath where you can immerse the parts. It works well but takes longer than they suggest. The parts come out really smooth and clean. The rear end of the 3A is well known for rust so i am interested in some protection. I am now looking at their cavity wax dynax S-50. It comes in aerosols with an injection lance. Has anyone any experience with this product? It has been tested by Hertfordshire University and according to the advertisement is a much better product than 5 other brands. I am keen to inj
  5. Delivered this morning from TR Bitz who have been great to deal with, Craig was more than helpful. 1st Triumph so looking forward to joining the Cambs region. Will be a rolling improvement, has fibreglass wings but at least they won't rust!
  6. Bear with me.... Took Olde Very Smokey for a run today - apart from the MoT - first time since end of July Started first time, ran well, good steady oil pressure and temps all the way, with a run down the A21 in slowish traffic, one junction round the M25 at circa 70mph to blow off the cobwebs, pulled strongly for overtaking - and then headed back up the A20 (traffic again) - total circa 1 hour. About 2 miles from home whilst sitting in a queue I spotted the crank case breather breathing steamyish. Had a minor panic thinking that I hadn't checked the water before leaving, but w
  7. After a short run today the carbs need some adjustment, The engine starts on the choke and runs well. But as you slow down at traffic lights or a junction the engine dies. I can keep it going by blipping the throttle. After it has stopped it starts immediately on the key and runs well. Something needs cleaning/unblocking. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  8. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  9. Any one in need of the rubber plug that goes inthe top of the Lucas Screen Jet? Mos Pt No 503786 Buy the Rolls Royce repro it is cheaper than the Jaguar . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLLS-ROYCE-SILVER-CLOUD-1-2-3-AND-BENTLEY-S1-2-3-WASHER-BOTTLE-RUBBER-CAP-/310363704021 I have had a few and can confirm they are pretty good. - Would this be a TR Gold Item? Peter W
  10. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Che
  11. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber wa
  12. Hi all, My car didn't have the front bulkhead sealer plates fitted under the wings when I bought it. This is due to the fact that there is no longer anything to bolt the plates to, as the extension of the front bulkhead both sides has long since rotted away and is now flush. The remaining panel is solid albeit patched in a few small areas. My question is has anyone got a template or drawing to show the dimensions of the bulkhead extension? I am hoping to remake this panel for both sides. It would also be good to see a photo of how it should look too. Kind regards Ade
  13. I am in the process of installing one of the much recommended on here Revington steering arm kits to my TRT3a. At the end of the instructions it says to set the toe in to 20 minutes. Is that going to be 20 minutes each side or 20 minutes total? I know I could phone Revington, but I just thought someone on here might know. Rgds Ian
  14. I have just under half a canister of the above left - which has aTriumph on the front. With the team having deserted to Millers, the current Classic Light 20W-60 has generic AC lookalike. Can I mix the two ?
  15. Thought this was an interesting item for someone who wants the proper speaker to go in that funny hole in the cockpit kick panel of most sidescreen cars. I don't like a radio in mine, but this looks the real deal to me. Dan http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232142346902?clk_rvr_id=1124344511135&item=232142346902&rmvSB=true
  16. I was out in my TR3a yesterday and after returning it to the garage noticed that the electric fan was still operating. It turns out that the thermo switch has failed and is shorting to earth permanently. I have ordered a new switch from Moss but has anyone else had the same problem. Part of the fun of ordering the new switch was getting the correct temperature range. Up until it failed, I have been very happy with how the cooling system is operating, the engine warms up quickly and the fan only seems to come on in traffic. "Simples", I thought, buy another like the one I had. The on
  17. A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
  18. I can not select reverse without crashing the gearbox on my 3A I have spoken to the gearbox specialist in the back cover of TRaction. He says that it must be the clutch. After all my troubles with the slave cylinder over the summer I am sure that the push rod is correctly adjusted. My gear knob will not lift up when I select reverse. Could this be the problem? Why does it have to lift anyway? The release bearing is making a low grumble and will be replaced this winter. Any advice welcome. Thanks, Richard & H.
  19. I really enjoyed a great afternoon when I covered over 80 miles in the 3A. The engine ran cool, The new hub extensions have removed the dreadful squeaking and groaning. Now I have rattle from the front nearside hinge when the engine is running. Where is best supplier for a new hinge.?Maybe they all come from the same supplier. It shows that the problems are getting smaller which means much greater enjoyment from driving in the sun on a crisp autumn day with not much traffic. The clutch is working very well but I am unable to select reverse without crashing the gears. Is there a gea
  20. The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to
  21. I came across these photo's taken in Caernarfon (year unknown). Would these cars be from the North Wales TR Group? Tom.
  22. About 10 years ago I spent a lot of money on the boot lid. It was lead filled and painted. Now there are two mole hills, one at each edge about 10mm high. I bought another lid through the forum. This time I am going to get the top job. I have now managed to get back to bare metal on my raised hinge boot lid. I now understand why paint shops charge a lot. I spent Saturday afternoon and most of Sunday with the wet and dry. My right thumb has a sore patch from pushing the block. Also after a few hours this does get very repetitive. At last it was finished and I polished it with an 80 san
  23. A spare radiator which I have is blocked with a considerable amount of sludge. Externally it is in good condition, but no matter how much I flush it the flow is still poor. The radiator is not fitted at the moment. Any suggestions as to what solution or products whether automotive/domestic I could use as a soaking agent to loosen the crud. Cheers, Peter
  24. Hi Guys Last night on Car SOS they did an SP250 and fitted a brake servo kit. I have thought about one of these for some time and Moss has a Lockheed kit and an after market kit for half the price. I guess the latter is Chinese and comes with a note that says " Use once and throw away" so I am only interested in the Lockheed one. Has anybody any experience with this unit? and how easy is it to install? There is not much room in the engine compartment of a TR3A so I though to install it under the occasional seat, but what is the diameter of the vacuum pipe? I presume the kit pipes will be
  25. Hello All, I'm in the process of restoring my 1960 3a which is an American import car and have a few queries: 1) I've attached a couple of images which show existing holes that I'm assuming are for tonneau fixing. The reason I say this is that I have another earlier 59 3a which doesn't have a tonneau and also doesn't have holes in either location. I would like to have the facility for a tonneau on the car but I'm not sure if I need both of these holes to be retained. Now is the time to decide as I'm about to go to primer 2) My 59 car (which is right hand drive model) has a blanking pla
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