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  1. Hi, Looking at my car, there seems to be a difference between front and rear track. There is a difference in track width, but I don't know how much. Did rear axles change over the years?? It is probably an optical illusion but the rear wheel track width seems to be a lot wider than the front.Anybody have the proper measurments? Thanks, Yves
  2. Gents I am trying to work this through and have not got anywhere so far, the car eventually started last week on one/two cylinders, I had a faff around got nowhere and left it for another day, I then reseated and checked connections to the dizzi and coil and got it running, great! all ready for the weekend satrted last, but come the sunshine it was a no go again. Symptoms are: engines turns over fine, loud backfires and won't catch at all, although when you realease the starter it sort of half catches. I have changed the plugs, cap/leads, coil. connection from dizzi to coil, installed fe
  3. Just been sizing up the opposition. There is an incredibly cheap ( ) 3a for sale on C&C. http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C795489 That aside, the position of the stick cover / tonneau intrigued me. 'Mine' (could be yours) lays quite flat, the hood frame below rather than above and behind the seat back. Have I been doing it wrong, is this how it is meant to be done? Could this be some sort of 'spoiler' ??
  4. Hello everyone Got the green light from Mrs to buy a classic car to really enjoy, like both the TR3a and the TR4a irs, lucky that the money is not the issue. I intend to keep it for many years and obviously wish to get it right. I have a very good mate that has a TR6 and will be soon joining his local group. He says do a lot of research, so here I am. Really would welcome any pointers and comments.
  5. Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing th
  6. Hi Guys I am about to fit a new cable from my O/D (via a right angled drive) to the instrument, and found that it is very difficult to get at the g/b end without removing the tunnel. I thought that that gaiter that fits over the handbrake and goes into that slot in the tunnel was for access to that end of the cable, but no such luck it is nowhere near that slot. So my question is, WHAT IS THAT SLOT FOR? as there is nothing else I that area. Thanks Dave
  7. Having picked up a copy of Bill Piggott's excellent 'Original Triumph TR' at the Stoneleigh spares day last weekend, I'm feeling all enthusiastic to don my anorak and bring my already quite original 3a even closer to its build spec. One thing I'm considering is to revert it to positive earth. Why would it have been changed to negative in the first place? I always though it was mostly to do with galvanic body corrosion but a quick internet search on the subject just brings even more confusion. Thoughts anyone? What would I need to change? Keith
  8. My drivers door is scratched and before it goes to the paint shop, I need to deal with the lock problem. The latch is too low for the keep which has been filed out to suit. I have stripped out the door card and the latch is located by a plate in a small cage. My plan is to open up the top of the cage and move the plate up by 1/4". i would then lengthen the cage with a small new metal bracket and JB weld. It is very difficult to see inside the door and I need help on the choice of tools for a repair ;like this. Has anyone else dealt with this problem? I measured some doors at the
  9. Hi all Is there anybody out there who makes a repair panel for the rear deck on a side screen car? More specifically the ends with double curve which meet the rear quarter panels? If these are not available, does anyone have a used rear deck which isn't damaged/rotten at the ends? Any help gratefully received Adrian
  10. My 61 3a is in the body shop next week and can't make mind up whilst it's there to have wire wheels repainted to Silver or just to leave as is in body colour. Any preferences?
  11. Does anyone know where I can get one (or two!) of these? I nicked this picture from a US forum. It is the little bush that fits on the door handle spindle that actuates the door latch. It doesn't seem to feature on any diagrams I have found! ..........and yes I know my car shouldn't have door handles but it has! [And with this broken on the driver's door I can see why doors with handles were installed!]
  12. Hello Folks I started the TR last weekend without difficulty after the winter layup. All OK. Decided to start her again this weekend and just got a click from the starter motor(?) and the engine would not turn at all. I searched this site and others. With my limited and electrical knowledge I have tried the following: Recharged the battery I connected a direct cable from the positive terminal to the engine suspecting dodgy earth connection - no change in the symptoms Measured voltage across the solenoid terminals with ignition on, it showed 12 volts Measured voltage across
  13. I have around a dozen TR3A models kits (un-made) that I need to move in order to make way for my Wallace and Grommit wind up A30 toaster - does anyone collect ?
  14. I'm just completing the fitting of all the ancilliary items to the engine prior to re uniting the body to my 61 3a but I cant find the oil breather pipe in my many boxes of bits. I'm being told that the breather was removed from the 3a's prior to 1961; my 59 model has one but I just thought I'd ask the question on the forum before investigating further. Thanks Graeme
  15. Has anyone on here got access to one of the "original" Triumph TR2 / TR3 suitcases that was designed to fit into the boot? I'm looking for dimensions and comprehensive photos of the case. I'm currently doing a level 2 creative craft course in leatherwork and possibly want to make a version of one of these as my final project. My idea is to follow the original design but possibly add some customization to suit a particular car / owner, in the first instance that would obviously be my own but who knows, it may be the start of an interesting side line! The course is the first of it's kind in t
  16. I've lost the drain taps for the block and radiator for my 61 3a, I seem to recall being told that the off the shelf items currently available are sub standard and leak badly. I'd welcome any feedback on this as if this is the case I need to start looking for a couple of original parts. ALso am I right in thinking that that Morris Minors and Austins of the same period used the same tap? Thanks Graeme
  17. I'm hopefully going to be re aquatinting my newly painted body with it's chassis in the coming weeks; can anyone tell me if its best to wait until after the body is installed before fitting the radiator and cooling system or can it be done beforehand? I assume it can be done as I've seen various you tube videos of guys that have the engine running on the chassis without the body which I'd like to do in order to check that everything is in order. Thanks Graeme
  18. I've been re assembling the cooling fan on my 61 3a but have noticed that I have 2 hub extensionsn but one is longer than the other. The longest extension is 12cm from end to end whilst the shorter one is only 10cm. Both came in a box of parts with the car but I assumed that the correct hub extension was the longer one as the bolt appears to be too long for the shorter one. Whilst the longer extension fits ok, I'm concerned that it will foul the radiator as when I lined the rad up it seemed to be too close for comfort.; in fact I'd have to bend the fan blades backwards to clear the radiator ca
  19. Hi Sage ones What is the standard construction for 4 pot pushrods? I ask, as Bob (Lebro) mentioned that in his they where solid rods with integral ends. Did they change through production to hollow tube with fitted head and tail ends? Cheers Iain
  20. Here is Japanese auto designer Miura's take on a flared TR3. Not my cup of tea, but nicely done. Cheers Dan http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/old-school-cars--tokyo-auto-salon-2017/ar-AAlRzIY
  21. Hi Could anyone confirm how many square spacers should be used on the body outriggers please? The original TR2 service manual and Moss Catalogue seem to suggest 4 spacers on each outrigger. I am fitting new sills and floor pans so starting from scratch. Any help greatly appreciated Regards Adrian
  22. The winter project is to remove the 2 x H6 SU and send them away to a specialist for rebuilding. Please send me the supplier who has given you a good service. If someone has let you down send me a PM Thanks Richard & H ( sunny and bright in Sussex)
  23. At the weekend I tidied up Olde Shiney's door pockets with some Signal (ish) red felt Even with poor pattern cutting I have 3.5m left of 5 metres (by 45cm wide), probably enough for at 3 people to do theirs. First 3 to PM are welcome to a metre (and a bit).
  24. Dear Collective I seem to have an oil weep / leak from the fuel pump to engine interface. Should I buy a bespoke gasket or just buy some gasket material and cut one out myself? 2nd question - should I be looking for a thick gasket or a thin one? I always think the thick gaskets look better and more likely to seal than the thin ones, but happy to be corrected. TIA Malcolm
  25. Hallo, I seem to remember many moons ago (10 to 20 years) I read or heard about a Canadian racing team who were active in the late 1950s or early 1960s using TR3s or TR3As. They had put louvers in the bonnets to help keep them cool. Was this a dream or was it fact? I have added a picture of what they might have looked like. I hope someone out there will be able to confirm as fact or dispel as fiction. Thanks Andy
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