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  1. Hi Guys I have a little trouble with my driver seat back starting to go back at an angle. I get in with my right hand on the passenger seat to take my (excessive ) weight off the seat back, but it must be that I lean too far back when I drive. So I need to know how to reinforce the seat back to stop this annoying reaction. At one stage it caused a tear in the seat base which I took to have welded up but it has not cured the lean back. Any ideas? anybody had the same problem? Dave
  2. Hi everyone, Purchased a tr3 to do up recently, wondering what year it's from? Vin number : TS 22510 and might have an L at the end. Any thoughts? Many thanks Richard
  3. Hi Guys, Julian Richards has managed to lose his boot handle . . . . . it came adrift, he put the whole assembly aside for sorting later, then accidentally added it to the scrap pile. B*gg*r Yes I know repros are available, but a shiny new one would look out of place on Julian's old nail. Has anyone a decent used assembly complete with lock and key, please ? I could collect at Malvern . . . . . Cheers Alec
  4. Hi There I am a new member and have just bought a TR3A. Its a lovely car but I have a problem in that it does not have any seat belts and i want to fit them. My question is whether it is better to fit a three point belt or a lap belt? I have see many pictures of both types fitted. I feel that the 3 point would be safer, but other TR3 owners i know have fitted lap belts. Finally if i fit a three point belt can anyone recommend which points are best to fit it to? Thanks David
  5. Here's a pdf of the talk: https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2017/07/10/how-does-an-su-carburettor-work/ There's information about SUs ( and Stromberg CDs) that will probably be new even to most SU experts: 'mixture spread'. ======== May I thank those of you who braved the sauna-like conditons in the Friesen Shed. And may I apologise that you could not hear me. I do not have a loud voice and the PA for the arena defeated my best efforts. In my defence I had requested months before that a lapel mic and amp-loudspeaker be provided. It was not there. So I have suggested to the powers tha
  6. I have a set of TR Girling half shafts in my garage but I can't remember where I got them from and I can't be certain that they are from a TR3a and not a TR4. Does anyone out there know the overall length of the TR3a half shafts? And do they have any value? Rgds Ian
  7. Don't know if anyone has seen this' barn find' www.ebay.co.uk/142417751356 one of the previous owners was Bill Piggott according to the seller,
  8. I am gradually working through the usual list of suspects in order to keep the 3A running at an acceptable temperature. Yesterday I noticed that the temp gauge was registering a little north of 30 degrees. This on a car that has not moved for 3 weeks and was sitting in a cool garage. Just wondered if this is the normal resting position of the needle or whether this might be indicative of an over-reading gauge. If the latter, it would explain a couple of things. Anyone any knowledge? As a supplemental, what are the pair of dots either side of the 85 degree line? Never noticed t
  9. Following on from the post on this forum about Masterlube, I've been meaning to get some because I too suffer from squeaking suspension. As I now only live about 30 miles from Revington TR, I thought yesterday would be an ideal time to drive there. What I had forgotten was that my route was going to take me right past Worthy Farm where the preparations for Glastonbury were in full swing so there was a fair amount of sitting in traffic jams on a very hot afternoon. What was a result was that the cooling system performed as it should; whenever I hit a jam and the temperature started to
  10. The current exhaust system is getting a bit long in the tooth. Bought from TrShop in the late 90,s it's a two box standard system on the standard cast manifold. It has never fitted very well and is getting noisy. What would people recommend as a quality replacement? Cheers Iain
  11. My TR3a seems exceptionally susceptible to the effect of old fuel. A month ago I resurrected the car from a couple of months laid up in the garage and it coughed and spluttered until I brimmed the tank with fresh Shell V Power fuel at which point it ran like a dream whilst I drove it 125 miles to its new home. (We were moving house). For the last month it has sat in the garage while the house gets sorted but yesterday I took it out on the road again and it is coughing and spluttering again. If starts OK and idles pretty well and initially when it is still warming up seems good but
  12. Needed with my electric fuel pump. The title says it all. Any vertical surface? Engine bay or interior? Thanks as ever... Miles
  13. Dear All, There is no screw or provision for one on my 4, which was rebuilt a few years ago, and it appears that although listed in the Moss catalogue, it doesn't show how or where this is fitted in the footwell. It appears to be missing on a few other cars I have seen, perhaps for the same reason (missed in rebuild). I am keen to make one up to avoid overstraining the carb linkage in red mist moments. =8-)) Does anybody have a pic they could share of the set up? I assume the screw is into a welded in nut somewhere on the bulkhead. Thanks Mike
  14. A couple of years ago I replaced my old but original brake reservoir because I was worried about it starting to leak. When I rebuilt the car I refurbished the original reservoir but it had quite a lot of rusting on the side that had reduced it to 'paper' thickness in places. The new repro reservoir started 'out of the blue' to leak a month or so ago just as we were about to move house and I have only just got around to removing it to fix the leak. I turns out that whereas the old reservoir was sealed by flat aluminium washers that were clamped firmly against the bottom of the can by t
  15. There are only a few areas of my 3A which I have never dismantled. After my son-in-law drove the car he noticed that there was a lot of movement on the pedal before the actual lever moved. This makes the pedal close to the floor. How does the shaft attach to the lever? It looks like a pin in the Moss catalogue. If it is, my lever or shaft are worn and will need repair. Is it possible to work on this connection with the gearbox cover in place? How could it be repaired. Please give me your advice. Thanks Richard & H.
  16. Buy it Now or Best offer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Car-Parts-Triumph-TR3A-rolling-chassis-With-Wire-Wheels/262792534120?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D37f0ffcb176a4e0d832ec290b669fbef%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D262792534120 Edit: it's on offer @ £1900 but you won't see it in the advert.
  17. Big thanks to roger h, he made me a very professional logic box, designed to be operated with a bell push works a treat 10 out of 10 and a star I enclose a pic of the gear knob with the bell push to co pimento the logic box
  18. Gents, I have a full kit of aluminium body panels TR3/A never fitted on a car in VG condition. Most are NLA. Prefer selling as a job lot or part thereof. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/1218/TR3A-aluminium-body-panels-set-of-9-pces PM or email if interested. Cheers
  19. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  20. steering rack conversion contact ring has anybody had experience with the steering rack conversion contact ring cheers pink
  21. This all makes fair sense. Fitting a cooler thermostat will not stop overheating - just delay it. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/ Increasing pressure of radiator cap will raise boiling point. .... But to my mind may explode your TR2/3 Smiths heater....it is also said the bellows thermostat will not work correctly if over 4psi radiator cap pressure is used. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/06/beating-the-heat-advantage-of-a-high-pressure-radiator-cap/ link to Redline Water Wetter Moss Europe http://www.moss-e
  22. Hello Folks Just to advise you all I have placed an advert in the buy/sell/trade section for the above. Grab your self a bargain! Cheers John
  23. This thread tells the story of converting a 3A tractor fan belt to the popular modern four ribbed flat belt and is a follow on from the thread I started last year entitled harmonic damper and thin belt conversion, which it seems is still going. In brief I abandoned the idea of fitting a harmonic damper for two reasons: 1 expense and 2 insufficient evidence that the ones I could afford actually did anything, for a Road car anyway. Having decided that it seemed like I was going to go down the cheap route so I decided not to buy an alternator either. I had no trouble with my dynamo and didn't go
  24. I have decided to fit a thin belt conversion kit, with harmonic balancer, to my '59 3A and have been pricing them up. I live in New Zealand which makes this kind of purchase rather more expensive and risky than if I lived in the UK. I wonder if any one has any experience of the kit sold by Rimmers. From what I can tell from the Internet it looks exactly the same as the one sold by Moss, but is £100 ish cheaper. I have never had reason to complain about anything I have bought from Rimmers before, or Moss for that matter, but I wonder if the price difference is reflected in the quality. I'd gla
  25. Earlier today I noticed that there is a tiny weep coming from the bottom of my brake fluid reservoir and a small puddle had formed. We are talking about something about an inch in diameter and there is no visible drop in thelevel in the reservoir but it has clearly been sat there a while because it has soaked its way into the paint. I have tried wiping but that is just going to strip the paint right back to metal. Has anyone any bright ideas for clearing it up with minimal damage to the paintwork because while I could remove the reservoir and associated pipework and make good, I am about
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