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Cars Owned:

  1. On the way down to Goodwood on saturday night, despite our best attempts to leave quite late and miss the congestion, we got stuck in painful traffic going through Croydon - probably 5 miles of nose to tail and best part of 45 minutes. Electric fan still in the box in the garage! Temp gauge didn't go over the 3/4 mark - normally runs at a fraction over half way (185) The exhaust looked a tad smokey in the headlamps of the cars behind (on/off, not consistent) Once onto the open M23, she stuttered under load for a while and felt rough for the remaining 15 miles or so Temp and oil pressures st
  2. I have or problem in that I have no angle brackets present to the reverse of the battery box i.e behind the dash. From what I can gather there should be two of these to which the two heater supports are fixed as well as to the dash itself. I've fashioned replacements but I could do with some dimensions in terms of where to fix them; it would be of great help if anyone could provide me with a dimension from the bottom of the battery to the horizontal face of the angle brackets many thanks Graeme
  3. Hi ! there was an ad on a dutch market place of someone offering a Triumph TR2 seat (damaged..). Unfortunately no image , the ad has been removed. Nothing special, but he's added a line which makes me wonder.. He says that this is an early seat which has a wider rear backpanel than the later type tr3 tr3a. is there a difference in the seats (except the tilt) between the tr2 and later seats?
  4. A question for the folks that are using the Tudor plastic washer bottle or similar.. I dont have the manually operated pump so I'm planning on using a starter switch (press to operate) and a small electric pump. The question is where to locate the pump so it doesnt look like a mess. I guess it could go next to the plastic bottle or I could bury it under the dash somewhere so I just have to run a single plastic tube through the firewall. Anyone been down this path and come up with a good solution ? Stan
  5. Greetings, I have used the angle speedometer drive on the "J" type overdrive unit in my TR3A. The car is on temporary licence plates, getting ready for spring and the German TüV. The angle speedometer drive has broken three times, always after I have driven about 120 kilometers. I assumed I had done something wrong the first time but since have carefully followed instructions and it still breaks. I have had two replacements free of charge but now I would rather pay whatever amount to get this straightened out. Help! And thanks for any replies.
  6. The clean up under the bonnet on my 59 3A is going well I think, although it has spread to the front suspension and under wheel arches but I guess that was alway likely ot happen. Just got the suspension bits back from the powder coaters, and it is a bit like Christmas with each part wrapped in bubble wrap, so looking forward to the stage when these are ready to be fitted. Anyway the question, which whilst not that important in the scheme of things I may as well try and get right as it is just a matter of colour in the gun. What colour should the bonnet spring mechanism be, ie the bit
  7. Can anyone tell me when the position of the regulator changed from horizontal to vertical mounting. My car is a 59 model and has the fixing holes positioned horizontally. Bill Piggots book states that later cars had them positioned vertically but I'm not sure when this occurred. I'm fairly certain that my bulkhead has been changed at some point & so I cant trust the location of the holes that are presnt. I'd just like the positioning to be correct for the year of manufacture. Many thanks Graeme
  8. Guest

    Spot the cars

    And one more thanks Niall
  9. Just when you think you have fixed all the POs stuff ups you find one you have missed. The beast came with a high torque starter which every now and then will not engage with the ring gear and allways at the most inconvenient time. Now this has been a subject on the Forum a few times and i have asked Peejay how they fixed his which had the same problem. Well i figured the ring gear needed to have a chamfer on the front of the teeth to guide the starter pinion into the gear. I had to take the gearbox out last week to fix a problem with the overdrive so i thought i will take the flywheel off a
  10. For those interested, TR Register Oz is providing TR2-TR3B sidescreen cars for the Formula 1 driver's parade prior to the Australian Grand Prix. This event takes place at 3.30pm Australian Eastern Daylight Saving time on Sunday 16 March. Each owner will draw an F1 driver to take around the track with a banner naming the driver placed across the top of the windscreen. Although the parade will probably only appear on Pay TV, it's still quite valuable publicity for the marque. Last time we did this I took Heinz-Harald Frentzen around and it's a huge buzz, but nerve wracking when you hit t
  11. Currently we have a pal's 3A in the garage for assorted tasks . . . . rebuilt gearbox in with a new clutch and hydraulics, new fuel tank, etc etc. When we came to try starting it, fuel pump issues, usual consequence of having sat dry for a few months, old age and failure. Nothing new there then. I've seen some of the repro pumps in recent years, cheap enough at £40 but quality seems a tad variable - ignoring the lack of priming lever, some seem otherwise reasonable enough, others a disaster zone . . . . operating arm flopping about all over the place, for example. Not reassuring. R
  12. I'm about to fit an anti-roll bar on DZ 1104. The current lowest points on the front of the car are the ends of the chassis rails.(bumper brackets may be slightly lower?) I read once that you can flip the forged lower suspension wishbones and this drops the front suspension by about an inch? I may have done this when I built the chassis as there's not a great deal of distance to play with now as the anti roll bar will become at least 1" Lower than the chassis rails. What's the lowest safe clearance when static? 4"? Assuming road use. Not Trials! New standard springs fitted all rou
  13. I need to know what is the correct trim that covers the inner cill and forms a seal around the door itself. Mine is a 59 model but I had a lookat a 1960 car the other day which had what looked like a flat aluminium trim secured to the inner cill which then wrapped over the flange which is adjacent to the bottom of the door when closed. I'd assumed that there would be some form of rubber door seal; can anyone advise what the original spec would have been please? Many thanks Graeme
  14. I've just stripped down the clutch master cylinder on my 3A. Can anyone advise me how I'm supposed to dismantle the innards inorder to fit new seals? Tom.
  15. HI, Saw this on a flickr page. Seems like a francorshamps style hardtop with some extra addition of sidescreen material to use the regular sidescreens: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fine-cars/123347342/in/set-72157623543971705 http://www.flickr.com/photos/fine-cars/123347342/in/set-72157623543971705/ Anyone?
  16. The RH indicator if fine - flashes and clicks The LH one clicks once, then no more sound. The front flasher is rapid, the rear nothing. Is this no more than a bust rear bulb? If so what rear bulb do i need ? Front earth connection is fine. When reinstalling the front grille, the red green wire seems to have the option of a single bullet brown geen female or a double green red I chose the latter, does it matter which, niether changes the issue
  17. I'm about to fit a new clutch assembly to my 3A. Should I lightly lubricate the main shaft and if so what with? Tom.
  18. Here's what I fabricated for the inner wing protection on my 3A. I am currently working on the front wing protection. Tom.
  19. I need to replace the original style demister tubes on the 3A, basically they are coming apart, and appear to be made of paper and tin foil. Has anyone found a more durable substitute? I was thinking of plastic expanding tube supported by wire coil, and wondered if some other car would have the same diameter pipe. Eg MGB? Any ideas much appreciated, cheers, Bill
  20. For having experienced numerous quality issues with replacement parts coming for the regular suppliers in the UK, I believe that it is about time to address those collectively instead of on an individual or piecemeal basis. Reason is that it is not improving, on the contrary. This is becoming worrisome as I did not experienced such problems with continental suppliers. The main reasons are well known: competition (or the lack thereof) and pricing. Drawing from my experience I can reasonably say that about 10% (I believe I'm one of those lucky ones) of the parts supplied were inadequate to some
  21. Hi, Are the two types of Girling rear wheel cylinders interchangeable, what decides which is used? Cheers, Esben
  22. I have a problem with my 59 3a that I'm part way through restoring in that I have no means of securing the boot lid. I had a look at John Slater's (Kent TR Group) 59 car today and his has a vertical bracing extending from the boot floor to the point that the boot lock engages upon closing (if that makes sense).Unfortunately mine doesn't, in fact it has nothing around the boot aperture for the boot lock to fix to at all. It may seem a daft question but did all 3a's have the same arrangement as Johns as I've not seen any images to detail this in any of the publications that I have or from trawli
  23. After many months of damp wet weather we had a dry day in Scotland, Yeh! I unwrapped the 3a from her winter wrap (Carcoon). Discs still shiny, (try that with a modern) connected the battery from maintenance charger, pulled the choke and turned her over to get the fuel through a few times and up she went, fires up no pops and bangs. In with the choke and set a fastish idle till warm. set the idle again and run for 15 minutes. Switched off and immediately started on the button !!!! Couple of starts with varying time between. The only issue i had was a weeping, well crying front fuel hose to mai
  24. Hello guys, Not really a TR, but the oil filter looks to be the same, and the filter bowl is (and chassis, albeit different, is similar on many points !): I would like to re-locate the oil filter on a Daimler Dart, the one with the small 2L5 V8 engine. This kind of modification could be of some interest for some "wet liners" TR owner, who knows ? I must explain why I want to relocate the filter : on Darts, due to the height of the filter bowl, the right hand exhaust down pipe sit very low (as is the left one, to be symetrical ?), about 3 to 4 cms under the chassis lowest point.
  25. Hi my handsome friends , ( excluding people who get pissed and write a load of bolicks) Took the three out today Lovely weather and all that Would not start, had to put new petrol in, got that sorted so went to put it in gear, could not get it in Pedal working ok, checked hydraulic fluid, ok So concluded that the clutch has rusted on to the flywheel, it was a night mare getting it free Had to start it on the key in gear, and then brake hard and bang it came free, My question is I have heard that you can jam the pedal down with a stick, over long periods of storage, an
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